One comment to add to Don's is that the length of the common wire must be
SHORT in terms of WAVELENGTH. As Don said, you want the counterpoises to be
close to a resonant 1/4 wavelength on each band

Six feet is small on 80 or 40 meters, but it starts becoming significant on
the higher bands. For example, on 10 meters you only need an 8-foot
counterpoise. Hooking other counterpoises only two feet from the
high-impedance far end will drastically detune it. I doubt if you can get it
to show any sort of resonance on 28 MHz. It may well be an issue as far down
14 MHz as well.

If you want to band-hop as fast as your KAT100 can switch between them,
arrange separate counterpoises on the higher-frequency bands. Instead of
running outdoors, try running them along your baseboards with each one going
directly to the rig.   

Another way to deal with that is to use a small single-ended matching
network just like you'd use with any end-fed antenna except the 'hot' lead
to the transmitter connects to the transmitter case or ground, of course.
Then you adjust the network for maximum current into the counterpoise for
the band you are using. SWR is not any concern, just maximum RF current. How
do you measure the current? Put a small flashlight bulb in series with the
counterpoise temporarily to tell what adjustment produces the best current.
Unless the counterpoise is very short in terms of wavelengths, one
adjustment will be FB for an entire band. Once you've found it, short out
the bulb to keep it from burning out. Often a watt or less will produce a
lot of light! 

Once you know the settings you can not them so you can simply reset the
controls to the right places for each band. 

For a matching network, a simple tapped coil and series variable will work.
Some companies make these circuits all built up and ready to hook up,
complete with a wiggly-meter RF current indicator. MFJ's "Artificial Ground"
is one.

Ron AC7AC

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