Dave I read your post with interest, as over the weekend I was looking at an 
automatic loop tuner described in the November/December isse of ARRL QEX 
Magazine.  This was for a MFJ-1788 Magnetic Loop working with a KX3 and based 
on an Arduino micro-controller.  I don't own the MFJ product but I do have an 
Alex Loop and with a few simple modifications the circuit should work nicely.

The loop tuner uses a DC motor but I thought a stepper might be more elegant.  
Thus, I needed to determine the working bandwidth of the Alex Loop to get some 
idea of the angular resolution I needed from either a direct drive stepper, or 
a stepper using gearing.  I looked at the Alex Loop around 7, 18 and 30MHz.  
3:1 VSWR bandwidths were measured using a RigExpert AA-54 antenna analyzer.  
For 3:1 VSWR the measured operating bandwidths at these three frequencies were 
determined as 44, 65 and 190kHz respectively.  Pretty narrow at the lowest 
frequency.

Thus, to get a good chance of achieving a VSWR approaching minimum, I figured 
the angular motion should be fine enough at worst case (7MHz)to achieve an 
angular motion of the tuning capacitor of no more than 1/0th the 3:1 VSWR 
bandwith = approx. 4kHz.  Since one and a half turns of the tuning capacitor 
tuned the Alex Loop from resonance at 7 through 30MHz (and assuming the 
frequency response is linear, which it is not) then the required angular 
resolution is 360 * 1.5 * 4 /(30000-7000) = 0.094 degrees.  Since a typical 
stepper does 200 steps per revolution, then the required gearing ratio would be 
approximately 20:1.

With this type of performance the magnetic loop could be very close to 
resonance at the chosen operating frequency presenting a VSWR approaching 1:1.

73's Gary K6YOA

   Message: 3
   Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2015 20:52:18 -0000
   From: "Dave Lankshear"<d...@lanks.plus.com>
   To:<elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
   Subject: [Elecraft]  [K2] Tuning a magloop with KAT100
   Message-ID: <7B2795A9D35B4139812BF284FD02542B@DaveLLaptop>
   Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

   Hello, Brian.

   I've read your post and the replies and figure I maybe read what you said
   incorrectly, but you did say:

   Then use the TUNE button on the K2 to tune the loop to resonance, then
   operate.

   You can't use the K2's antenna tuner to tune a loop to resonance.  That's
   not how they work.

   The loop is a complete tuned circuit in itself.  There's the loop
   representing inductance and a capacitor in parallel with it.  These are
   resonant at a frequency and the only practical way to move that resonant
   frequency is to adjust the value of the capacitor that's in parallel with
   the loop.

   You can't adjust that resonant frequency using an auto ATU at the end of a
   length of coax.  It's rather like using a telephone conversation to make a
   physical change at the other end.  You can't use the phone to make the beds
   back home, when you're away!  The auto ATU will see the coax cable and the
   loop as a lump of L and C and will endeavour to match it to 50 ohms to get a
   1:1 SWR.  The coax forms part of the antenna and is not behaving like a
   transmission line and the loop is not behaving like a resonant circuit - you
   might just as well hook the coax to your automobile's fender and use the
   auto ATU to tune that!

   Please forgive my descriptions if I have misunderstood your question, but
   re-reading your quoted statement makes me feel like I'm the only one who has
   understood.

   Yes, by all means match the auto ATU into 50 ohms using a dummy load.  That
   way, the PA is looking into a load that matches the impedance of the
   transmission line, although as Don suggested, you don't really need the auto
   ATU (and its losses) as the PA should be reasonably well matched by
   bypassing the auto ATU entirely.  Now, at the loop end, there's a gamma
   match arrangement that ensures the loop, when at resonance, is a decent
   match to the 50 ohm transmission line you're using.  So the rig matches to
   the transmission line which matches to the loop that's been tuned to
   resonance with its inbuilt tuning capacitor.

   A loop is only a single turn coil, the resonant frequency of which is varied
   by adjustment of its parallel capacitance.  Because it's small and is a low
   loss inductor operating with a low loss airspaced (or vacuum) capacitor, the
   Q factor, or "goodness" of the single turn coil at resonance is very high.
   This means that a small excursion away from resonance, the loop's Q falls
   very rapidly and renders it pretty useless, thus it is necessary (more so
   when transmitting through the loop) to retune it for frequency shifts of
   more than a few kHz.  That means that the SWR rises rapidly away from
   resonance and the coaxial cable is more involved in becoming part of the
   antenna and less of a transmission line.

   The outer surface of a loop (well, outer 6%) needs to be of very low
   resistance in order to maximise Q at resonance.  RF skin effect uses only
   the outer surface of the conductor, thus the larger the surface area of the
   conductor, the more its internal resistance is in parallel and thus reduced,
   so the better performer the loop becomes.

   Even a soldered joint on copper piping offers resistance that compromises
   the loop's performance.  Recently a friend gave an old army magnetic loop to
   a group of collectors/militia enthusiasts.  It was in poor condition, but in
   its prime, its surface area must have been a foot across.  This makes a
   mockery of the little bits of aluminium (aluminium) joined together with
   bolts and wing nuts.  Yes, says the vendor, it is broad banded and only
   needs retuning every 100kHz or so.  What he doesn't say is that its
   resistance makesthe Q so appalling that its performance is lousy (where
   lousy is the polite word), but those devices give properly engineered mag
   loops a bad name by tarring all with the same brush.  Also, there are
   proportionally more crappy mag loops out there simply because they are
   cheaper than the "real" thing.

   The MFJ 1782/86/88 aren't too bad and are just at the crossing point between
   good and bad, with a bias towards the good, if not too many spiders and
   other insect life are resident under the black covers. These loops have an
   airspaced variable capacitor within the black covers and that capacitor is
   tuned by a small electric motor that's attached to it.  DC power for the
   motor is fed down the coax cable itself, as well as the radio signals.  They
   are not difficult to separate, eliminating the need for a control cable.
   The DC voltage on the coax is reversed in order to make the motor turn in
   the opposite direction.  The more sophisticated MFJ controller has an
   inbuilt cross-needle SWR meter and the name of the game is to get the SWR as
   low as possible on the operating frequency.  Their semi-automatic controller
   drives the motor and detects the lowest SWR point and stops.  Of course, to
   detect the lowest point, it has to begin to increase again, so it always
   stops at a point that's not quite at resonance and this must be fine-tuned
   by the operator, hunting to and fro with up/down press-buttons.  It takes
   more effort to describe than to do in real life Hi!

   One last caution.  Circulating currents are very high in a transmitting mag
   loop and very high voltages (thousands of 'em) are also present when at
   resonance, so ensure that the loop can't be touched by anything that matters
   to you when it's transmitting, even at a few watts.  Give it a LOT of
   respect, indeed, powerline respect.

   I hope my efforts haven't missed the mark by a mile, Brian and that instead,
   the wear and tear on my keyboard has been of some small use to you.

   73 and early Season's Greetings.  Dave G3TJP

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