Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one
caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel. 

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration. 

I know that Mychael (the toroidguy) uses a solder pot. He's often grumbled
to me about finding one what works well over time. AFAIK he has compromised
on a fairly inexpensive pot that he ends up recycling after a year or so of
use when the heater or thermostat fails. Also one needs to keep the dross
(burned enamel, etc.) that covers the surface of the solder cleaned off so
it doesn't coat the wire as you remove it. Don't forget that you need a lump
of solder to melt in it too. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward
R Cole
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:36 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them with a
small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for tinning.
Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy glob on the iron
and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot but could see that
would work except for contamination of the solder if you do many.

I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is normally
coating magnet wire.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
     "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
     dubus...@gmail.com

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