Thanks Don.

The antenna that I am using is the UltiMax 100 End Fed antenna with a 33' wire 
which all came from the factory as is.  It has been a super antenna, worked 
lots of state side and DX with it and the MTR 5b radio tuning with the T1.  I 
just spent a week with it up in the Smokes.  It was hung off a 31' Jakite 
fiberglass extendable pole mounted up on the rear ladder of my motorhome, about 
35' in the air.

Thanks for helping, I appreciate it.  

I heard from Gary at tech support, moments ago, and he had me test some things. 
 He thinks that there are a couple diodes gone, and offered to fix it if I send 
it in.  I also just ordered a second T1 to use when I break one of the tuners.  
I have big stuff, but don't care to use them with my little qrp radios.

Thanks again for your help.

I have very recently purchase several little kits from Elecraft, to learn how 
to build and fix on.  I also want to try building a very basic kit radio, then 
a K1.  I have all the recommended tools, the adjustable Weller solder station, 
magnification lens and light, proper solder, etc...  Hopefully, I will soon 
have the skill to handle this type of small repair job on my toys.  

I have a very nice K2 that is loaded, several little elecraft kits, and want to 
build a K1 soon.  I am also saving up for a new factory built K3s.  

Take care Don,

Thanks again,

Steve
KI4EZL

> On Aug 8, 2016, at 3:51 PM, Don Wilhelm [via Elecraft] 
> <ml-node+s365791n7621386...@n2.nabble.com> wrote:
> 
> Steve, 
> 
> That 33 foot wire may be what is giving you problems.  It is a half wave 
> on 20 meter and present an impedance greater than the T1 can tune. 
> I quote from the T1 manual: 
> "Avoid lengths close to a multiple of 1/2-wavelength on any band you plan to 
> use. If you use an end-fed wire with no feedline and/or a poor ground, 
> you may need to reduce power to avoid RFI problems with the transceiver, 
> tuner, nearby computers, portable phones, etc." 
> 
> I suggest you try a different length, or at least add a short 
> counterpoise wire.  If you are using it on 40 meters, you definitely 
> need a counterpoise wire of about 33 feet. 
> 
> 73, 
> Don W3FPR 
> 
> On 8/8/2016 2:56 PM, Steve-KI4EZL wrote:
> 
> > Thanks Don. 
> > 
> > In the video I posted on youtube, the blinking yellow is actually the self 
> > test sending code for each value. 
> > 
> > The green light was blinking when in first step of tune mode, then touch 
> > paddle to start 2nd step of tune mode.  Normally it moves around trying 
> > different tunings and latches on to the best one.  Now, it just has steady 
> > tone, steady green light, flickering yellow a tiny bit, but does not try 
> > different tunings and does not latch, and does not finish the tuning, like 
> > it use to.   I ran the self test and the blinking yellow light showed the 
> > following results. 
> > 
> > S=1R0,        SWR 
> > V=8R9,        BATTERY VOLTAGE 
> > L=0,             INDUCTANCE 
> > C=0,             CAPACITANCE 
> > N=t,              NETWORK CONFIG 
> > B=0,              BAND ID 
> > F=1R07          FIRMWARE  REVISION 
> > 
> > Tested following with neg dmm lead on neg bat tab.  No battery in device 
> > tested. Red DMM lead on parts ends, one at a time: 
> > D1:  122/0 
> > D2:  122/0 
> > R3:   120 / 117 
> > R4:   120  / 117 
> > R5:   118  /  0 
> > R6:   118  /  0 
> > 
> > Then, testing with both pos & neg DMM lead tips on each end of parts, then 
> > swapping neg for pos & vice versa, 
> > D1:  122 / 79 
> > D2:  122 / 79 
> > 
> >> On Aug 8, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Don Wilhelm 
> >> S=1R0, V=8R9, L=0, C=0, N=t, B=0, F=1R07 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
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