The 117V  AC may be produced by the vehicle using an inverter similar to those 
sold as separate devices. Years ago I was using one of those and found out that 
they would not allow the ground pin on the AC outlet to be connected to the 12V 
minus connection. If that is the case, you would have to be careful hooking 
things up.

73,
Erik K7TV

-----Original Message-----
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dauer, Edward
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 8:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Mobile from 117 VAC

Previous threads provided a great deal of info about arranging automobile 
electrical systems to power HF rigs.  But as I recall, it all focused on using 
the battery / alternator supply for the 13 VDC.  Though I wanted to go mobile 
and still do, for a number of reasons I could not configure my car to do it 
properly.  I am now thinking of buying a new SUV which has 117 VAC outlets in 
its rear cargo space.  That makes me wonder – could I just use an ordinary 117 
VAC to 13 VDC power supply, exactly as I do at home, just plug it in and – 
staying within the car’s rated current draw – operate without worrying about 
where the ground goes vis-à-vis the battery, what-all needs to be bonded with 
what-all-else, how everything needs to be mummified in ferrite, etc?  Or are 
the problems all the same even though different?  My objective is simple.  I 
want to be able to drive to a rare county, set up my buddipole in a parking 
lot, and use either a XX3/KXPA or a K2/100 to knock out some CW QSOs.  I do NOT 
want to take an electric drill or a rivet gun to a new car.

Has anyone gone mobile using a car’s 117 VAC outlets?  Any thoughts to share?  
Any thoughts from anyone who for any reason hasn’t done it?

Ted, KN1CBR  (operating this week as N0A in the NAQCC anniversary event.  Give 
a call if you hear me.  Mostly 20 or 40 CW)

Tnx.

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