Alan,
Good questions. The Elecraft tuners can not be beat for what they
can tune, so the only real issue is how to transition to coax from open
wire/ladder line. Probably, the easiest is to use a 4:1 current balun to
make the transition. I would go with one that is rated at least 3KW. Why
so heavy? The answer is core heating when running with a high SWR; this
is more of a design "safety" issue. And, the current balun will stay
balanced better than a voltage balun when presented a high SWR.
I use a variant of this here in my station, meaning the antenna is
slightly different. It works great with no problems and I can use my
antenna 80-10 meters. DXengineering and Balun Designs make good baluns
as I'm sure there are others, but I know these work.
One last thought. Make the transition as close to where your egress
point is. If you have a fairly lengthy transmission line run, you will
be using the lowest loss line for as far as you can go and then
transition. I would use a very low loss cable from the balun to the
tuner, something like LMR-400.
73,
Barry
K3NDM
------ Original Message ------
From: "Alan Lambert" <a...@thelamberts.com>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 2/12/2018 9:26:40 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Suggestions needed - antenna to tuner
I could use a little advice
My present setup is;
KX3 > KPA100 (w/ ATU) > MFJ Balanced line tuner > ladder line fed
80m Inv 'V'
I run this with the ATU disabled and then manually tune. Obviously
this is time consuming and makes band switching a pain so I am
considering removing the MFJ from the chain and start using the ATU.
Also I plan to add a KPA/KAT500 in the near future and my MJF tops out
at 300w so I has to go anway.
The questions are...
1) Should I do it? or will I see a significant performance decrease?
2) If I do - How should I make the ladder to coax conversion? I
think I need a "tuner balun"?
73
Alan
KN4BBC
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