Chris,
The hole in the K2 front panel should be enlarged ONLY enough to pass
the threaded section of the encoder - NO LARGER.
With that done, the first shoulder of the encoder at the base of the
threaded section will fit flat against the metalwork.
No need for any additional hardware or washer.
Of course, if you ream out the front panel hold enough so the shoulder
beneath the threads can pass through, you will have to add a washer of
the type you are describing.
In any case, you must flush trim the leads on the encoder board and the
back of the Control Board which might contact the encoder board. If
that is not done "strange happenings" can occur.
I have done this many times for my customers, and have corrected many
where the customer did not understand and did it incorrectly.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/16/2019 7:45 PM, Chris Smith wrote:
Hi all,
First post so hello.
Currently building my first Elecraft product, a K2. Got to the encoder assembly
and tripped over a bit of a problem. The encoder would not sit flat in the hole
in the front panel as the hole is actually only very slightly smaller than the
encoder's shaft. I've seen another post mentioning this and reaming out the
panel as a solution which was a no for me as it firstly wrecks the nice paint
job and secondly makes the knob poke out too far.
I sat for a bit and thought and then dug through the junk box and found a
~1.8mm thick M10 washer (10.05mm internal diameter). I used a cheap Noga
deburring tool to widen this out to 10.4mm. This now sits over the metal sleeve
on the encoder (not on the plastic body - never do this!) and allows it to sit
flat in the front panel without rocking and be tightened down without damage.
The encoder board does not foul the control board either.
Cruddy MS Paint cross section: https://m0xte.uk/pub/k2-encoder-mount.png
Hope someone finds this useful.
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