"glass fuses"? You want to avoid the in-line cylindrical cartridge
fuses, the holders almost always have too much resistance. Blade-type
automotive fuses are much better ... much more contact surface, much
more contact pressure, and a wiping action as you insert the fuse. A
drop of DeOxit on the blades as you insert the fuse will also help. If
this is a fixed installation and your power supply has some form of
overcurrent protection [e.g. crowbar], there may be no need for any
fuses in the power cable.
73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County
On 4/25/2020 9:01 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote:
Here's an update.
I replaced the power cable running from the powerstrip with a 3-foot length
with glass fuse holders in each leg. I also adjusted the power supply to
14.50V at rest. The K3S now shows 14.2V at rest. At 100W TX the K3S shows
13.2V, so a 1 volt drop. Way too much.
The power supply voltage measured at the terminals drops from 14.50 to
14.44 for full power TX. This seems too much, I had read the drop should
be no more than 0.01V and this is 0.06V.
So, suspecting the in line fuse holders I made up another cable with dual
blade-fuse holders, which was worse. TX voltage on the K3S display dropped
to 12.9V.
I'm suspecting my power supply is to blame - it's a TenTec 963, a
re-branded Astron SS-30. Alternatively, I have another commercial power
cable with fuse holders I can cut down and try.
Many thanks for all the help both here on the reflector and the direct
emails from several fellows, and to Rich VE3KI for the on-air tests this
morning!
73 de Chuck, WS1L
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