That's a critical point you made Mark: never solder with a "dry" tip. It
must be wet with a little solder. The wiping is to remove excess solder and
any burned rosin or other debris, not to dry the tip off completely. 

That's one of the reasons it's so important to use the right size tip on the
iron. It's not just a matter of the tip reaching the joint without touching
other parts, but a big tip will take too much solder to "wet" it, and when
you heat the joint that solder may flood a small solder pad, but without the
rosin needed for a well-flowed joint. The right size tip allows a small drop
for good transfer, then more fresh solder is added with rosin to complete
the joint. 

I use Don's technique for checking my iron temperature too: between 2 and 3
seconds for good solder flow over the joint. When I've worked on gear in the
field (ships, etc.) I'm often in a situation where I'm working on delicate
PCBs, even replacing SMDs at times, without a soldering station. I use my
butane powered "Port-A-Sol" pen iron. It's hot enough to burn a hole in a
PCB or de-bond traces almost instantly, but it has a fuel-flow control that
adjusts the temperature and has selectable tips. For fine work I install a
1.5mm tip and crank down the heat, setting it to produce good solder flow
between 2 and 3 seconds after applying the tip to the work. I've never
damaged a PCB or component with it following that rule. 

Ron AC7AC


-----Original Message-----
I agree with all Tom has stated, but to add a bit
more(I didn't see mention of this), after cleaning the
tip well I will dab just a touch of solder to the
right before touching the joint to establish a
"bridge."  This helps the transfer of heat quickly to
the joint so that you're not applying heat too long to
that high quality but fragile circuit board.  Too much
heat for too long is a disaster to any pcb.  My $.02

73,
Mark Baugh
W5EZY
Grenada MS


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