Peter,

Yes, the KAT2 can be nulled without removing R6, and yes, obtaining a minimum reading of 10 or 11 is quite normal.

The reason for initially having R6 not installed has to do with checking for shorts - but since the manual calls for a specific voltage range for the check, the null procedure has to be completed first. There is no need to remove R6 when rechecking the null.

If you have a good 50 ohm resistive dummy load and have an RF Probe, you can calibrate the forward power with those tools, and they will be more accurate than a run-of-the-mill wattmeter. P=V^2/R - Power equals (RMS voltage squared) divided by the Resistance. Several trials should result in a well calibrated wattmeter inside the KAT2.

73,
Don W3FPR

Peter Wollan wrote:
According to the manual, it should be possible to adjust the null to
000, and it should be a broad null.  On mine, it was extremely sharp,
and wouldn't get lower than 010, flickering to 011.  Does this indicate
a problem?  I went ahead and finished the installation -- the voltages
were fine, and the tuner seems to work just dandy.
I'm using a homemade dummy load, which seems to test out ok at least at
the lower frequencies, and I don't have a calibrated wattmeter (yet,
will borrow one soon).
Can/should the null be recalibrated, even though the resister has been
installed?

        Peter N8MHD

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