Peter,
Yes, the KAT2 can be nulled without removing R6, and yes, obtaining a
minimum reading of 10 or 11 is quite normal.
The reason for initially having R6 not installed has to do with checking
for shorts - but since the manual calls for a specific voltage range for
the check, the null procedure has to be completed first. There is no
need to remove R6 when rechecking the null.
If you have a good 50 ohm resistive dummy load and have an RF Probe, you
can calibrate the forward power with those tools, and they will be more
accurate than a run-of-the-mill wattmeter. P=V^2/R - Power equals (RMS
voltage squared) divided by the Resistance. Several trials should
result in a well calibrated wattmeter inside the KAT2.
73,
Don W3FPR
Peter Wollan wrote:
According to the manual, it should be possible to adjust the null to
000, and it should be a broad null. On mine, it was extremely sharp,
and wouldn't get lower than 010, flickering to 011. Does this indicate
a problem? I went ahead and finished the installation -- the voltages
were fine, and the tuner seems to work just dandy.
I'm using a homemade dummy load, which seems to test out ok at least at
the lower frequencies, and I don't have a calibrated wattmeter (yet,
will borrow one soon).
Can/should the null be recalibrated, even though the resister has been
installed?
Peter N8MHD
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