The best antenna I have is a piece of wire about 30ft long with a 100pF cap on 
the end as mentioned in the article. I tried U1 pin 1, and get nothing. I 
suppose that would indicate a problem...but I'm not sure where.

Not much point in going backward, because anything behind that will certainly 
be stopped there.

Any ideas?

Randall


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Hammond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Randall:
> 
> >At best Ive been getting some quiet popping noises...I occasionally 
> >heard some hums, but I think that is some bleed-in from my work 
> >area, and not quite so much to do with something coming in from the antenna.
> >
> >I put the bottom cover back on to try and isolate it from the table 
> >and any frequencies coming through it, and the hum is gone, and I 
> >cant hear anything now. I think all the antenna was doing was 
> >bleeding out that errant signal.
> 
> It was probably providing a VERY small amount of signal which was 
> able to sneak thru
> the product detector and into the AF Amp.
> 
> >Perhaps its time to introduce myself to some local hams and see if I 
> >can't get some help, and perhaps a signal gen.
> 
> It NEVER hurts to get to know your 'locals'... sometimes you'll find 
> someone who is very
> knowledgeable and quite willing to help a newbie.
> 
> However... FIRST try using the techniques (and test points) in my 
> article. You first want to try to confirm that everything from the 
> Receive Mixer on thru the AF Amp is working. So try injecting an 
> off-the-air signal, even if it's only 40M noise, at U1 pin 1. IF you 
> hear noise in the speaker, then go to pin 1 of T1, and then to pins 8 
> & 3 (in that order) of K1.
> 
> Each time you CAN hear a signal, as long as it's relatively the same 
> (or higher) level as that which you heard from a prior injection 
> point, there's a good chance that things are still OK to that point. 
> You want to work your way from the INSIDE of the circuit out toward 
> the ANT input. If you find an injection point where the signal really 
> drops (or completely disappears) THAT's where you want to try to find 
> out why... the loss should be between THAT point and the last known good 
> point.
> 
> This is quick and easy to do and may save you having to find someone 
> locally for help... though it's STILL good to get to know the locals.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Tom   N0SS
> 

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