On Wednesday 11 November 2009, dave wrote:
>On Tue, 2009-11-10 at 22:07 -0700, David Braley wrote:
>> Gene Heskett wrote:
>> > Greetings;
>> >
>> > One of the things I have not yet learned is how to get the most swarf
>> > from a given milling tool.  I have a tendency to go slow, so the swarf
>> > is sometimes so thin it settles like snow flakes when it is blown away
>> > from the work.
>> >
>> > Obviously this is wasting the cutting edge of the tool, dulling it
>> > prematurely.
>> >
>> > So when my fresh shipment of 1/8" mills gets here, I would like to be
>> > able to have it throw thicker chips and far fewer of them but remove
>> > lots more metal before they dull.
>> >
>> > I'm going to rig me an oil squirter from an in tank auto fuel pump to
>> > try and keep the mill wet.  With a tuna can under the workpiece I can
>> > catch most of the runoff, and maybe even filter & recycle it.  Details
>> > to be invented yet in the finest of shade tree mechanic methods of
>> > course. ;)
>> >
>> > Assuming I keep the area wet with cutting oil at a high enough flow
>> > that I don't wind up with a muddy slurry, but do have enough chips to
>> > act as a wick and keep the mill wet from the cutting oil they absorb
>> > (or the oil level in the tuna can is high enough), and the 1/8" 2 flute
>> > carbide upcut spiral mill is turning 2500 rpms, how fast can I feed it
>> > while doing a 0.020" deep cut per pass without breaking it?  Slower and
>> > deeper, or shallower and faster for best tool life?
>>
>> Feeds and speeds as you already know is a delicate dance with what
>> material you're machining, spindle speed, number of flutes on your
>> milling cutter, table speeds and lubrication. And like you discovered
>> above, it's better to cut than rub your material off.
>>
>> It sounds like you are running a smaller machine. If that's the case,
>> another factor comes into the equation and that's how stable or rigid
>> your spindle is. A spindle that is built with bearings less than ABEC
>> 7's is not going to give you the rigidity you will need for long tool
>> life. Your small spindle my wind way up, but that'll be useless when you
>> start to load it with heavier cutting. Procession is not your friend.
>> Even if it's so small, you can hardly detect it.
>>
>> I like your oil squirter idea for lubricating your cutter, but I want
>> you to consider instead using a spray mister. The reason is simply
>> because once you start to make bigger chips with those tiny cutters,
>> you're going to have a problem with getting them out of the way. The
>> smaller cutters are more commonly broken because the chips clog up the
>> works. A spray mister will by its nature, blow everything out of the
>> slot you're cutting, keeping the system cool, lubed and clean. It's less
>> of an issue with larger cutters. The mister does make more of a mess,
>> but with simple and carefully placed shielding, you can contain most of
>> it. You will also be surprised at how little mist coolant you'll end up
>> using when you get it adjusted right.
>>
>> My worthless two cents. ;-)
>>
>> David
>
>Cutting Al is absolutely a can of worms.
>
>Rule #1 is to use T6 if possible.
>     #2 is to remove chips so they don't recut. Sometime a shop vac
>works well here.
>     #3 even a bit of kerosene or WD-40 helps at times but the surface
>tension may glob up the chips and make a mess.
>     #4 air and shop vac may do the best job.

My thoughts were to try and get a coat of oil on the cut surface as fast as 
possible, with the tool swimming in the oil if possible, because that impedes 
the formation of the alox coating, a factor which may be more responsible for 
the heat generated then the cutting stress itself.  You can get a significant 
coat of alox on the freshly cut alu in .001 second, yet another factor in 
running at high spindle & feed speeds, not enough time for a coat of the 2nd 
hardest stuff in the universe to grow between flutes going by & exposing 
fresh, VERY active surface to the oxygen in the air.  And that sort of speed 
is a luxury I don't have with my puny spindle.  At 2500 rpms, that is 41 revs 
a sec, so if I didn't screw it up, that is nearly .006 seconds between flutes 
of a 4 flute mill. And I ordered 2 fluters this time...  And the alox 
reaction is contributing a goodly amount of heat if the air is allowed to get 
to it. I guess we are damned if we do, and damned if we don't  The oil mist, 
coming in on a 50 psi air stream, may be the best idea of all.  Flooding the 
area with dry nitrogen would also help, but who can afford that?  Not me.

>If you get the Al to high temps it flows and bonds to the cutter. I once
>saw a cutter at Boeing Surplus: probably 1 to 1.5 inch dia and 8" long
>with a cone of melted Al on it. Going for cheap if one had a 50 taper
>machine to use it on. A couple of pounds of lye would have done a good
>job of cleaning it up (and made a decent amount of hydrogen). :-)
>Even the experienced guys have problems. ;-)
>
>It has been my experience that carbide mills don't do well on flexible
>(wimpy) spindles. HSS is much tougher and you just live with the slower
>speeds.

I've wondered about that, thanks for the info.

>Most extruded Al is way too soft to cut cleanly and leads to problems.
>
>Plunge milling to remove material is probably the best approach, just
>watch the tip of the mill for fusion of base material.
>
>Naturally YMMV.
>
>I'd rather deal with P20 (Rc 30 4140) than Al.
>
>HTH
>
>Dave

And TBT, if I had my druthers, the only alu in the supply channels would be 
7078-T6, it machines NICE.

But I'm just a beggar, taking what I can get. :)

Thanks Dave.

-- 
Cheers, Gene
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
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