Some things to try.

1. Better keying of the mold halves. I cut an angle on the outer edge of 
the first half, often with notches placed as needed to prevent any 
misalignment lengthwise with the edges.

2. Clamping the mold together. Use two pieces of MDF, coated with clear 
lacquer to seal them, to sandwich the mold. Hold together using mold 
straps. They use a web belt that does not stretch much and an 
over-center locking buckle.

3. Fill the mold from the bottom up. Make the fill channel go down to 
the bottom or near the bottom of the cavity so that as the resin goes 
in, the air can escape up vents at the top.

4. Cut vents with a fiber reinforced cutoff wheel in a Dremel or similar 
rotary tool. NOT cordless or one that runs off a 12V wall wart. They're 
not powerful enough.

5. Complex molds often need to be tilted at just the right angle while 
being filled so that air can escape from some places, especially spaces 
that are horizontal and thin.

6. Put it under pressure, as I mentioned in my previous e-mail.

7. For especially difficult castings you might try filling the mold then 
putting it under vacuum followed by pressure. The mold will need extra 
tall filling and venting channels to keep the resin from bubbling out 
under vacuum.

8. An idea I've been kicking around for a high speed vacuum system but 
haven't yet had a need for... Get or make a cylinder with at least 
double the volume of the tank the mold will be in. Fit it with a sealed 
piston and valves like a bicycle pump, but set up to draw in instead of 
push out. Use a heavy weight to pull the piston out (like yourself on a 
long foot pedal) or a chain or hydraulic cylinder or electric driven 
ball screw. The idea is that the piston can be moved quickly and in one 
stroke will drastically drop the pressure in the tank. If setup with 
reversible valves, air could be let in then the piston pushed the other 
way to quickly raise the pressure in the tank. Make the check payable 
to... ;-)

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