Hi everyone

After three weeks I've got the latency down under 10,000 and received and
installed my breakout board. Now I'm trying to get it going. 

With unipolar stepper motors and 2 wire uln2003 stepper drivers need to
alter the <loadrt stepgen step_type> to 5,5,5 or 6,6,6 , the step and
direction to A- and B+ , and remove the <setp parport.0.pin-**-out- reset 1>
command. ( thanks Andy for the linuxcnc forum of Sept 2012)

I can't see how to do any of this with the stepconfig wizard, and if I just
edit the BillsMill.hal file it will revert when I sun stepconf.

So please let me know how I can edit this confuguration.

Regards Bill 
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Gene Heskett
Date: 03/08/14 14:40:52
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Linuxcnc stepper mill configuration
 
On Friday 07 March 2014 23:06:00 Bill did opine:
 
> Hi Gene and Andy
>
> I guess I'm convinced that I need bigger motors but until I see some
> movement I don't want to do anything.
 
If you want to see movement without letting the smoke out, and here I am
assuming the + end of your 24 volt supply is being fed to the common
centertap of all windings of the motor, you need a current limiter to
protect the ULN2003 that will only allow about .5 amps to flow.  IIRC from
reading the spec sheet that the winding R was around 5 ohms for the
unipolar version.  Basically you will need to drop 21.5 more volts in order
to arrive at the .5 amp current figure. At .5 amps, the 5 ohm winding will
be dropping 2.5 volts.  So 24-2.5=21.5, times 2 because its .5 amps, that
would be a 43 ohm resistor and it will need to be sized for a wattage
dissipation of a hair over 20 watts. A 50 ohm 25 watt adjustable power
resistor, using most of it would be about right.  Then you can apply power
and see if the motor runs when jogged.  It probably won't run long enough
to see it jog without that current limiting resistor.
 
> What Torque do you both Suggest
 
The comments re ball screws vs conventional is quite valid, the ball screw
moves at 95+% energy efficiency, while the conventional screw, even in ACME
thread, is about 35% at best because you'll need to count the drag of the
threads in the nut and the drag of the end thrust containment. And the ball
screws, properly fitted will have backlashes in the thousandth of an inch
or less, whereas the conventional screw and nut can wear from 3 thou if
just adjusted, to 7 thou in one half hour long job. To get drive power,
fairly fine threads are used on the regular screw, but the ball screws have
relatively coarse threads. a single start 16mm ball screw will move the
table 5mm per turn for example. Typical gains would be 2 times faster, and
twice as much push with the ball screw.
 
In short, make it work with what you have, and if thats not good enough,
you "scratch the next itch".  Its what I've been doing for the last 65
years since I quit school & went to work fixing these new-fangled things
called tv's for a living, about 1948 or 49.  Switched to broadcasting by
getting a 1st phone in '62, and the rest is history, working the last 18
years that I worked as the Chief and often only engineer at WDTV.
>
> I'll carry on with calculations in the meantime then I can shop around.
>
> Thanks again
> Bill
>
 
 
Cheers, Gene
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>
 
NOTICE: Will pay 100 USD for an HP-4815A defective but
complete probe assembly.
 
 
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