On Thursday 23 April 2015 06:30:40 andy pugh wrote:
> On 23 April 2015 at 02:53,  <richsh...@comcast.net> wrote:
> > The working surface on my router is a piece of 1 1/8" plywood
> > subfloor with a piece of 3/4" MDF over top. I made up the difference
> > of 0.005" by a light surfacing cut of the MDF to make sure it is
> > level. However, everytime it rains here, I know that I have to
> > resurface the MDF, the characteristics of MDF, sorry
>
> Maybe something like this would be better?
> http://www.solwayrecycling.co.uk/agricultural/ecosheet

Perhaps it would be better Andy, but at 46 UKP/sheet, and about that much 
for freight delivery, the mdf comes in at about 1/3rd the cost locally.

When it show up at Lowes or Home Depot over here, who can buy it in 
truckload lots, sell it at a big buck a sheet, small maybe, depends on 
how many hours it takes to resurface the mdf, including the carbide tool 
you'll trash doing it.  On a gantry router, it is still going to get dug 
up unless we're very carefull and use sacrificial but precise shims 
under the work,  I would rather dig up a sacrificial piece of mdf even 
if the stuff is hell on tooling.

In making my last furniture piece, I used a 2" piece of soon to be 
ir-replaceable white ash (the Emerald ash borer is killing them 
nationwide over here) that covered 95% of the table, with a caul of 1x2 
straight maple, curved on the bottom face so it was pulled flat by a 
pair of 3/8" readi-thread studs screwed into the white ash, making its 
own threads, far enough apart I could clamp across an 11.5" wide 
Mahogany board and do the Green & Green style big wide box joints on the 
ends of the boards.  All the damage is a good inch beyond the caul board 
because thats as close as I can get to it without the spindle burning 
its way into the caul.

On the rear is a piano hinge holding a flip it out of the way Mahogany 
strip "end of board" stop, and a left edge of board locator glued onto 
it that makes sure the left edge of the board is just inside the x 
travel limit with a 1/4" tool mounted.

Works great, the area under the joints has been knocked smooth of burrs 
several times with some 80 grit paper to make sure the next board to be 
cut is laying flat when its clamped up. I haven't been as carefull about 
the depth of cut as I should have been, but the nonimally .750 thick 
Mahogony board I can get shipped in seems to have a tolerance of -0.005" 
to +.040" anyway.  So I generally zero Z at the top surface + .015" 
feeler blade & cut -.800" in whatever number of passes gets me 
around .75 spindle motor amps with my toy mill.

However, I do have a good stock of white ash for the next furniture 
project, laid up under roof in my woodshed, getting rarer all the time. 
Some of it has been there 15 years now, ought to be nice & dry. ;-)

Humm, Maybe whats left will pay to bury me by then?  It is a strikingly 
beautifull, creamy white wood, quite hard and I have not seen any listed 
for sale at the hardwood places in quite a while.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

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