On Monday 22 February 2016 08:35:31 John Alexander Stewart wrote: > Gene; > > I have the Canadian equivalent of the G0704, CNCd, and I think the Y > gib goes to the back of the machine to tighten. I did go through the > exercise to adjust the ways, but it needs doing again, and, finding > out why the backlash compensation on the Y is so high > > John.
I did get it John, drive Y to the rear until that back bolt has well chewed a pocket in the rubber sheet seems to be about right. I put a .0001 dial on it and anything under a thou of wiggle is too tight. Then I put the dial on x, & soaked both ends of a paper towel with mobile 68 way oil, wiped off black grunge till I tossed the towels, washed, rinsed and repeated until x didn't want to come off the end of its travel, & worked it back looser, cleaning and oiling as I went, until it could home x and drive it back to center reliably. Some of you may want to mark this message, on the G0704, X gibs drive left to tighten, Y drives to the rear to tighten, and Z drives down to tighten. So its now moving Y while cutting with no trace of the 5mm screw. I am not really impressed with the Y drive or the z, neither has a bearing on the far end of the screw, so it can flop about if the motor coupleing isn't dead straight on. Didja ever see one that was? Me neither... Anyway, finished up that single tooth cutter tonight, but found 2 things, first being that drilling & tapping 2 4mm holes 1/4" apart to hold the cutting tooth will need to have the cap screw heads filed down about 15 thou each as the caps each contact the side of the others cap. 2nd was that I under-estimated how much A2 I should have sawed off to make the cutting tooth, so tomorrow I need to make another, perhaps 1/4" longer piece, and when I form the cutter, it needs tipped a bit higher for additional heel clearance. I had turned the steel bars ends for backside clearance until I had lost about 1/2 the depth of the outside holes threads by that trim, but that still needed both a longer cutting tooth, and a higher attack angle so the wood doesn't come in contact with the tool holder after the cutter has passed by. I did gnaw on one piece of scrap, and it looks pretty good, so I believe I am on the right track. I looked in the handbook, I made the cutter out of A2, which needs 1700-1800F for first heating, is air quenched, then annealed by bringing it back to around 1300F but didn't see for how long, or what they call an air quench. But I don't think I've any way to get it up to 1800F in the first place. Best heater I have ATM is a nat gas fired 4 burner cook stove, or a bernz-o-matic. I haven't had any tanks for my Smith wrench since the whole shebang was stolen back in 80-81 in Redding CA. And with electric cutoff saws, I haven't felt the need to buy another kit when the tanks are going for around $500 a pair in these here parts. For something like this, a kilowatt induction heater is likely a better deal, but I don't know of any in this neck of the woods. Anyway, I have nearly 3 feet of that A2, and a powered waterstone to face it with, so if it does dull, I can both sharpen it and make new ones too. So, I learn by doing, and I feel good about todays progress. ;-) Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Site24x7 APM Insight: Get Deep Visibility into Application Performance APM + Mobile APM + RUM: Monitor 3 App instances at just $35/Month Monitor end-to-end web transactions and take corrective actions now Troubleshoot faster and improve end-user experience. Signup Now! http://pubads.g.doubleclick.net/gampad/clk?id=272487151&iu=/4140 _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
