On Friday 04 March 2016 13:39:16 BRIAN GLACKIN wrote: > Gene, > > Two items, > > First - check out http://www.leevalley.com/en/html/05F1501ie.pdf > > has a nice writeup on wood bending. You are likely to find your > answers there. > Printed, read thru a couple times, very informative in terms of describing why I'll have a heck of a time doing it. Thanks a bunch.
However, they specifically do not mention mahogany. Also noted that kiln dried wood probably won't work as the heat of the kiln has already set the lignite. High moisture content wood, 30% seems preferred, but this has already been dried so low my pin meter doesn't reliably give a reading as it only goes down to 5%. So it appears steam is the way to go as I'll have to put some moisture back into the wood, likely if the wood was bare, at least a 24 hour per inch of thickness soaking time. But that bare is complicated by 2 of the 3 lids already having a liberal coat of teak oil applied. And there's something else not nearly so glossy on the 3rd one. All will have the effect of sealing out the steam. It sounds like I should see if HD can supply enough of their 1x6's, which was pretty good wood, and start over. I did not have any such warpage problems with the HD mahogany I made the first one out of. But it takes 4 of them biscuited together to get the width. And I'll have to cut up 2 more Gibson necks to get the breadboard ends unless I can salvage these. Getting the glued in ebony plugs back out means I may as well make new ones, both plugs and breadboards. Damn. There are times when I wish I hadn't started this project. > Secondly, in using the foam, a quick and airtight technique is to > connect your corners of the foam boards with the 3X expansion foam > they sell at home stores. Once it cures, its locked in giving you a > nice strong corner. Make sure to leave a 1/2" gap between the pieces > so the foam can expand around each of the adjoining slabs. I have > made air stoppings (in underground mines) using styro blocks and > expanding foam. It created surprisingly strong barriers and gave an > airtight seal. > Interesting, and thank you, Brian. > Good luck. > > On Fri, Mar 4, 2016 at 1:10 PM, Gene Heskett <[email protected]> wrote: > > Greetings; Mouse miss-fire before; > > > > The lids for these chests were the first things I tried to make out > > of this crappy, poorly seasoned & dried mahogany. > > > > So by now they've had about 90 days to warp, and warp and wind they > > have done. > > > > Now I know its a popular thing to warm up oak in a steam setup, > > getting the lignite in the oak above 180F softens it and allows it > > to be bent, and it will retain that bend when cooled again. > > > > I'd druther not use steam as this stuff reads 5% and below for > > moisture, and if its temp alone that allows this, it stands to > > reason that lignite is lignite and I'd ought to be able to heat this > > mahogany, and rather than bending it, take the bend/wind back out of > > it. > > > > So obviously I have to make a chamber big enough to take these lids, > > all 3 of them, which with the bearboards ends and all are around 1 > > and 1/16" thick, around 23" wide, and about 47" long. Thats a 2x6 > > frame for height, and half a sheet of plywood for top and bottom. > > But without some insulation, hard to heat. So I am contemplating > > giveing it a wrap with some 2" blue styro, thats r11 by itself. > > That should, because it reduces the cooliing at the far end away > > from the heat source, even the internal temps. As for the heat > > source, I'm considering demolishing an old hair dryer, mainly to > > remove the plastic as much as possible, at least cutting off the > > handle, and doing a light dimmer type of control externally to set > > the heat. I don't care if it takes days to warm it up as theres > > probably 40 lbs of wood to heat without scorching that which is > > nearest the heater, only that it does get hot enough eventually. The > > slower the better and more evenly would seem to be best when dealing > > with 1/4 a barn door sized stuff. > > > > So my lack of info basically consists of how hot do I have to heat > > this mahogany to the point where it will sag of its own weight and > > flatten, and, how hot can I get the outside of the box before that > > blue styro starts getting soggy? I can put a small probe thru the > > box resting on the high point, or even stack 20 some pounds on it to > > add some counterforce to the wind its taken, and by that see it > > start to flatten. But that may need 200F or a bit more inside the > > box. IDK about mahogany. > > > > Maybe this is something Les Watts can advise on? Maybe, because the > > wind is direction in-consistent, I might have to heat each one by > > itself. > > > > Advice needed OIW. > > > > Many Thanks to the wood people I know there are a few of here. > > > > Cheers, Gene Heskett > > -- > > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: > > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." > > -Ed Howdershelt (Author) > > Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> > > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > >---------- _______________________________________________ > > Emc-users mailing list > > [email protected] > > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >-------- _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > [email protected] > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
