hi nicklas
some dielectric info
http://www.guiacnc.com.br/maquinas-em-geral/eletroerosao-caseira/?action=dlattach;attach=30033

basically the gap distance is goverened by the fluids 'dielectric 
breakdown strength'
a measure of the distance at which a given voltage will allow a 'spark' 
to jump the gap

BP ( british petroleum used to have a wonderful book on this
but i cannot find a web link to the 100+ page large format booklet

the formula is only distance and voltage, current does no matter
the distance is in practice < 0.3mm ( practice says the open voltage is 
300Vdc or less )

the clarity of the oil DOES affect the conducting quality
if filthy, it conducts at 20mm!
if dead clean, NO DIRT AT ALL, you will get hammering cuts
( read you need SOME dirt, not enought to see, but SOME particulate matter )
this is because the 1st phase of the s[park is MAGNETIC, where the field 
between the
anode and cathode builds up and attracts dirt to form the bridge that 
the current crosses
and which you see FLASH )

kerosene for heaters works well
teeny hair sized tools use brownian motion in a drop of oil to flush
matchstick sized tools need light flow ( dribble ) and likely 
intermittent cutting
(like peck drilling )
large tools ( like transmission cases ) benefit from flush holes thru 
electrode
to a pressurized supply line, the outflow is not intense, but a good 
rainfall.

flushing is an art, well at least a  craft/skill
but for you, simply flowing nearby with generous off time (D% < 30%) 
should work
was there a video of the cut?

buildup on end of tool is swarf ~welded back onto tool.
flushing, jumping, and low duty cycles will help

? try advancing to workpiece at 1um steps till discharge occurs
then wait till discharges dissappear ( even when you thump the table )
THEN advance 1um till you spark again

tomp
tjtr33


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