On Monday 19 November 2018 08:45:32 Les Newell wrote: > > I don't have any spares that are 100% functional. I blew the probe > > input on one while doing EDM on that machine, and a loose ground on > > the frame of the G0704 did the probe input on another. > > If it's just one input you could just not use that input. > > > I've seen something similar, bring about $1000 to own it. Made for > > bigger mills than my GO704 though. > > Yikes. I didn't realize they are so expensive. I paid £1000 for the > whole machine. It's a Hurco Hawk like this one > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEUCFxHbBPA>. > > What size impact wrench are you using?
Its a small Dewalt, 18 volt screwdriver with an impact mechanism driving a 1/4" hex chuck. A 2" long 1/4" hex to 1/4" square adapter to hold the 8 point 5/16 socket which fits the 8mm square bolt head quite nicely. Strictly patented by Rube Goldberg :) Works surprisingly well though. I've not had a tool work downward in an r8 collet since I started using it as it gets it tighter than I can with the 8mm end wrench supplied. A TTS er-32 still needs a 22mm end wrench seriously applied to the TTS body and a 40mm crescent on the collet nut tightening to stop them from working, cutting ever deeper until the tool snaps off though. Major PIMA, and quite costly if I don't apply the 22mm wrench holding the TTS body and an even bigger crescent on the nut firmly enough. Slippage between the 3/4 r8 collet and the shank of the unkeyed TTS adapter is a problem when trying to rigid tap, which is why I invented a way to key the tap holder into a 7/8" r8 collet, each of about 65 pieces of 7/8" brass rod that holds the tap by grub screws to the 4 tap flats, has a 4mm cap screw in the side of the brass that fits in a notch cut in the mouth of the 7/8" R8 so it cannot slip and taps last till the cows come home to be milked. One 4mm tap is all I've twisted off since, took the part to the little mill and EDM'd that tap out and finished that hole by hand with a fresh tap. A Part for my camera mount on the spindle lock. I did consider trying to drop a wrench with a square hole over the drawbar, but quickly came to the conclusion the spindle motor even in low gear, simple didn't have enough torque to do the job, particularly since the gears are plastic. So locating and engaging the locking hole to immobilize the spindle against the impact wrench seemed to be next logical thing to try, and it works well, but means I can't do lights out stuff until I solve all the tool changer drive problems. And I can't do that with the gpio's available from a 5i25. I think I might have 3 inputs left in the existing config. Nowhere near enough to tally what the changer has completed so it can then do the next step. Needs more horses for the beggar. ;-) Cheers Les. > > On 19/11/2018 13:04, Gene Heskett wrote: > > On Monday 19 November 2018 07:31:09 Les Newell wrote: > >> Hi Gene, > >> > >>> I have taken to using an impact screwdriver tool on the > >>> drawbar, and means to rack it up and down must be devised just to > >>> engage it with the drawbar. > > > > This drawbar has a 5/16 square tip, so its driven by an 8 point > > socket. Rather than band it at the same time as the air cylinder > > pushes, I think I'd like to run the spindle at 15 or 20 rpm which > > would engage the socket with much less shockload. The wrench has > > enough power its splitting that 8 point socket slowly so I've bought > > spares. > > > > The next problem is in getting it to spin slow enough the pin can > > drop into the spindle lock without breaking the pin or wallering out > > the hole. Maybe I can do a spindle home, then drop the socket. I > > don't imagine the plastic gears in the head could take that wrenches > > beating for long. It can pull the bar tight enough I can't loosen it > > again with the supplied wrench, so I don't let it hammer for any > > more than I can get my finger off the trigger. > > > >> I have a commercially made drawbar that works like this. The impact > >> driver is simply pushed down by a pneumatic ram which is driven at > >> the same time the driver is energized. The motor starts spinning as > >> it drops, allowing the drive spline to line up with a spline the > >> drawbar. > > > > I've seen something similar, bring about $1000 to own it. Made for > > bigger mills than my GO704 though. > > > >>> A 5i25 simply doesn't have enough pins. > > > > And the 7i76D has lots more output power than a 5i25. I think it can > > drive the relays to run the wrench, or turn on the vacuum by way of > > another ice cube without any extra buffering, just a diode across > > the relay coil. Same relays can run the chain drive to change the > > tool. > > > >> Do you already have a 5i25? AFAIK you can have multiple cards so > >> you could simply add another. > > > > I don't have any spares that are 100% functional. I blew the probe > > input on one while doing EDM on that machine, and a loose ground on > > the frame of the G0704 did the probe input on another. > > > >> Les > > > > Thanks Les. > > _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > [email protected] > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users -- Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
