I watches a Youtube video where sme one tried different methods with threads and then put in an M5 screw and then pulled the screw head in a test cell until the it failed and measured the pullout force. If you do it right one is about as good as the other as it was never the threads that fails but the plastic around the joint. So as bad as screwing a screw directly into plastic with no nut sounds, it works. The difference is how many times you can remove and replace the screw. Plastic threads simply wear out from repeated assembly and disassembly and become loose.
Nuts are good only because you likey already have a nut but the "class" solution is the brass insert that is place with a solder iron. They look the best. Some people use helicoils. But plastic treadswork well if you are any going to assemble the screw a dozen times of so, Just don't bother with nuts of any type and you get the same strength. On Sat, Jul 25, 2020 at 10:36 AM Bruce Layne <linux...@thinkingdevices.com> wrote: > > > On 7/25/20 1:10 PM, Chris Albertson wrote: > > ...just model threads in the plastic. > > This trick works much better on the newer high resolution MSLA resin > printers that sell for as little as $209. I used FreeCAD this morning > to design a rough functional prototype to test that has 1/2-28 threads. > Two of them are currently printing on my MSLA printer with about 40 > minutes remaining. I used high temperature resin for these parts. I'm > sure several of you guys, including Gene, can guess what I'm > prototyping. I attached an image. Hopefully it made it through the > list server. > > I've printed gradually tapering nut pockets on both the FDM and MSLA 3D > printers and pushed in stainless nuts. That works very well, and it's a > cheap trick. I designed some large thumb wheels with an M3 nut pocket > that's over 20mm deep. > > https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4383435 > > In theory, horizontal holes and hexagonal pockets have overhangs that > are greater than 45 degrees and that's usually a no-no for 3D printing, > but in practice, small holes for screws or nuts can be bridged by the > filament on an FDM printer and don't need support. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users > -- Chris Albertson Redondo Beach, California _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users