> > I've been offered to exchange my 1n-hs in for a 1n-rs. I was > wondering if any of you guys have any oppinion about the two > cameras compared to each other. > > The extra speed of the rs is not very important to me, but what i > especially like is that the viewer will not black out during > exposure, so i.e follow a car in speed would be quite alot > easier. Downsides for the RS would in my opinion be the 1/3 stop > lesser light on the film, and maybe that it is easier getting > dust and stuff inside and ruining my pictures. i really dont know > about that, but i was just thinking... > > so, do anyone have any opinion about this? should i swap? or am i > really better of keeping the HS? > > regards > > Trond
Hi Trond, I own and shoot with a couple of EOS 1n's with boosters (same as an EOS 1nHS), and an EOS 1nRS body. The EOS 1nRS is an incredible body for certain types of shooting, like sports, action shots etc. BUT it does have a lot of downside in practical use. If you only have one body KEEP your EOS 1nHS. The reason is pretty simple, the EOS 1nRS is a very good tool for certain narrow usage, the EOS 1n offers more flexibility in operation and what it can do. The main problem as I see it with the EOS 1nRS is that the booster is permanently attached and cannot be separated from the body. This means that if you want to lighten/reduce volume of the 1nRS body down to the minimum weight and size to allow you to carry a second body, more glass, film or whatever, you are stuck with the full size and weight of the 1nRS body's booster. With an EOS 1nHS you can simply take off the PB-E1 and plug in the standard grip and 2CR5 lithium battery or BP-E1 (battery pack E1), and off you go. The other drawbacks to the 1nRS are that the AF in not as fast in Ai Servo AF mode and there is a 2/3 stop (NOT 1/3 as you wrote), of light loss to the film plane to deal with when compared to a standard EOS 1n body. These are lesser but serious issues that will have a real impact on your shooting. Most sports shooters will not complain too much at the loss of 2/3 of a stop of light as most are shooting with long, fast lenses f/2.8 or better and are generally outdoors in daylight or indoors with a radio trigger for the house flash heads. If you don't shoot wide-open or almost wide-open most of the time with fast lenses (f/2.8 and faster), then the EOS 1nRS won't offer you much advantage in terms of the blackout. While it's true that you don't have a mirror bouncing up and down with every shot you DO have the lens stopping down for the exposure. If the lenses you have are not f/2.8 or faster and used wide open or mostly almost wide open, you will be seeing the effects of the diaphragm closing down during the exposure and this looks a lot like mirror blackout. The effect is not as dark or for as long a period but it does go dark in the finder. I don't have any slower lenses but the effects of slower lenses is very apparent in the finder when I use my EF 300 2.8L and EF 2x converter mounted on the RS body, it gets DARK! Try this, take your fastest lens mount it on your EOS 1nHS and go outside, select Av mode and select an aperture that is 2 and 2/3 stops slower than wide open and press the DOF preview button. This is what you will see when you release the shutter of an EOS 1nRS in regular mode, focusing, dimming, shutter releases, brighten, focusing again, it's dark and this is only closed 2 stops! It's not too far from the effect of an EOS 1n mirror black out. With the EOS 1nRS used in the "RS" mode, the lens diaphragm is stopped down and stays stopped down once you depress the shutter release 1/2 way, you have no AI Servo AF in RS mode, only One Shot AF mode. The loss of AI Servo AF means that you must stop down to be assured of a reasonable zone of sharp focus during RS film blasts. It also means that the finder image can be very dark during RS mode shooting even outdoors and film speed will be a consideration for RS mode shooting. The slightly slower AF is not really a problem but it's noticeable in real use and sometimes can cause a lost shot. Also the meter and AF detector don't get as much light so their range of operation is reduced by 1 EV. As to dust on the mirror, this is a serious issue and can indeed cause image degradation unless kept clean. But if you are reasonably careful it's not a big deal, just something to keep in mind when mounting new glass on an RS body. In summation, unless the EOS 1nRS will be your second body, this IMO is a bad trade in terms of practical photography. The financial aspects may be favorable though depending on the price you paid for the EOS 1nHS and if any money is to change hands. But the money issue aside, you need to carefully consider what lenses you have and if you really need this rather specialized body with its limitations and such. I hope this helps you some in your decision. Regards, Chip Louie * **** ******* *********************************************************** * For list instructions, including unsubscribe, see: * http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/eos_list.htm ***********************************************************
