On Monday, August 12, 2002, at 09:40 PM, Peter VanDerWal wrote: > Remember this box will probably be holding over 1/2 ton of batteries, > do you really want to risk having them come loose at speed when you hit > a bump or have an accident?
Actually, it'll probably have more like 300-390 lbs. But no, I don't want to have them come loose in an accident! I believe that a properly bolted box can be just as strong as a welded one, maybe even stronger as long as you use the correct materials and mounting points. > I doubt the original tank will be cube shaped, they tend to be curved. Actually, I was thinking that the curves might help. I can sit the batteries on the flat floor and fill the curves with insulation. The tank is held very securely to the car as it is, so why try to reengineer it? > Plexi glass tends to be pretty brittle. If you actually have someone > sit on it it might break, unless it's fairly thick in which case it > will cost more and weigh more than a good piece of plywood or better > yet sheet metal (with suitable stiffening). They won't actually be sitting on the plexiglass. The seat pads will be mounted above the battery window. >> I'd also have the stereo system's massive subwoofers firing directly >> forward from the trunk, placed just behind the new seats! > Ahh, you need to talk to Wayland. He is the king of EV stereo systems > and has the sound-off trophies to prove it! We're old pals! :-) >> Alternatively I could just use the existing spare tire space to mount >> all of the batteries in, but that would put the weight further back >> than I was hoping for. > You're joking right? There is no way you will be able to mount enough > batteries in the spare tire area to go more than a mile or so I think you'd be surprised how big the spare tire well is on this car. While this wouldn't give perfect battery placement it would let me avoid cutting any large holes in the car that, even if reinforced with a welded battery box, would weaken the car in the event of an accident. > Get some cardboard boxes (or large foam blocks) and cut them down until > they are 10" long, 7" wide and 9" tall. That is roughly the size of an > Optima YT with an extra inch on top to give clearance for the > terminals. Now you can position these mock-ups to see where and how > they will fit. Speaking of Optima terminals. This brings up another one of my questions. I'm going to bury it in here with this response, so I hope that it doesn't get lost to too many people. I haven't seen any Optimas with the EV recommended lug-style connections. They all have standard automotive posts. I take it that this isn't really a problem, since the Optima is still one of the most preferred batteries for EVs, but how is this issue dealt with? > Yup. however the connections are typical ceramic cubes can be delicate > and easy to break off. If that looks like it might be a problem spend > the extra dough and buy one from one of the EV parts places. They sell > ones that are a bit sturdier. > > Oh yeah, use a 12V fan. The fan that comes in normal heaters is > designed for AC not DC, the element does care but the fan will. Won't the fan that's already in the heating system work? > Yes but are you going to have a stout enough 12V system?m AC will need > one to two killowatts (100 to 200 amps). You can buy 12V power > steering pumps (they use them in Toyota MR2s) > If you want to run off pack voltage you might be able to use one of > these treadmill motors that show up for $20 to $50 at surplus places > check http://www.meci.com and http://www.sciplus.com Now we're getting into another one of my questions. I want to have a DC/DC converter beefy enough to keep either my stereo or my AC going at full blast, or keep both going at moderate levels. :-) I haven't seen any DC/DCs that are larger than 40 amps, can I install two of them to get 80? Also, why do the EV kit people sell converters for $500+ when I go to EVparts.com and they're like $180? I'll have capacitors on the 12V system to keep the stereo going strong, but should I use an Optima (YT?) for the 12V battery too or would a standard starter type be better (red top)? Thanks! Matt -- Composed on "Ti", my Titanium PowerBook G4. Transported by "Li'l G", my 2000 Honda Insight #5359. 58,500 mi. since 3.1.01 with 71.6 L(ifetime)MPG. Life is good. Thank the Lord.
