EV Digest 2916
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: plated bus bars?
by "Bryan Avery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Some ideas/questions
by "Bryan Avery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: New EV to go into production
by Aubrey Wilder <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Supercap liquidation at Solectria
by Martin Jackson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: New EV to go into production
by Geoff Shepherd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: ZEV progress photos
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: A Buck a Watt
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: plated bus bars?
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: AOL 8.0
by "tom peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Some ideas/questions
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Some ideas/questions
by "garry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Some ideas/questions
by "Bryan Avery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: plated bus bars?
by "Chris Crouch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: plated bus bars?
by "Shawn Lawless" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) MB80- Better News on Heat
by fred whitridge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Electric Mobility Scooter-Cheap
by "tom peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Another EV grin!
by "Cliff Rassweiler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Electric Mobility Scooter-Cheap
by "Thomas Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: A Buck a Watt
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Curtis controller repair info
by "Mark Dodrill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I guess I had always just assumed that copper was pretty much the only
way to go for interconnects. How much difference is there really
between aluminum & copper as far as electrical conduction?
-Bryan Avery
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On
> Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 1:55 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: plated bus bars?
>
> Why not go other way then and make interconnects themselves out of
> aluminum bars? Negligible loss increase vs copper (compare to the loss
> in the cell itself) won't make any practical difference.
>
> Victor
>
> Chris Tromley wrote:
> >
> > Bryan Avery wrote:
> >
> > > All this talk about battery box material and corrosion from
> > > matching dissimilar metals together has got me wondering if I
> > > need to rethink some of my other plans. My current plan for
> > > battery interconnects is to connect the li-ion cells within
> > > each strapped together bundle using a combination of solid
> > > copper bus bar and aluminum heat sink. For something like
> > > this, should the copper be tin-plated (or dipped in solder,
> > > etc.) or is that overkill?
> >
> > If this goes back to the discussion of putting aluminum heat sinks
*on*
> > the buss bars to improve cell cooling, why make your heat sinks out
of
> > aluminum? Copper is a better material than aluminum for a heat
sink, in
> > terms of thermal dissipation. The only reasons copper isn't used
for
> > heat sinks in general are cost, weight and ease of fabrication.
Just
> > solder some copper fins to your buss bars, and while you're at it
coat
> > the whole buss bar with solder. Or mechanically attach the fins and
dip
> > the whole thing in solder. Copper hates acid, and the solder will
> > protect it.
> >
> > Years ago the Honda factory motocross team had two seemingly
unrelated
> > problems that were solved with a single clever solution. Their
engines
> > were running hot. They wanted to improve handling by lowering the
polar
> > moment. They could shave weight at the ends of the bike, but they
were
> > already at the weight minimum. The solution was to machine cylinder
> > heads from solid copper. Better heat radiation, better
concentration of
> > mass right where it needed to be. Normally at the end of the season
> > they crush the bikes. On these bikes they saved the copper heads.
> >
> > Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I guess I don't see what the problem is with using existing power brakes
and a vacuum pump. For a car already equipped with power brakes, all it
takes is to add one component (the electric vacuum pump) to create the
vacuum. No need to completely redesign the brake system. The vacuum
pump runs off of 12V and seems fairly efficient. The only issue I see
is the potential for noise when the pump is operating and this can be
minimized by using a quiet pump to start with and then mounting it in a
way that isolates the vibrations. I for one am happy to pay a couple
hundred bucks for a good pump. I have one of Victor's pumps waiting to
go in my car when I get to that point. Since my car is equipped with
anti-lock breaks as well, simply restoring the vacuum should be all that
is needed for the ABS to operate correctly. The cruise control operates
off of the vacuum pressure also, so once I have the vacuum, all I will
need to figure out is the mechanical part of the linkage to the
accelerator pot and the cruise control will work as well.
-Bryan Avery
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On
> Behalf Of Peter VanDerWal
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 9:11 PM
> To: EV
> Subject: Re: Some ideas/questions
>
> The easiest thing to do is just switch to manual brakes (grin). For
the
> past year I've been using power brakes without a vacuum assist. One
of
> these days I'm going to take the vacuum assist chamber off, that will
> make it much easier to use (it's spring loaded).
>
> Getting a linear solenoid to work right is possible, but complicated.
> Tat said it seems to me that someone(s?) have already developed
> electrical assist. I don't know if it's actually available on any
cars
> yet though.
>
> On Fri, 2003-07-11 at 18:33, Jeff Shanab wrote:
> > Do we really need vacuum on EV's?, How hard would it be to make a
> > solonoid(linear motor) to provide the assist, Would it be more or
less
> > efficient? I am sure it would be smaller. maybe a manual master cyl
> > mounted a sol, I could figure out the mechanical part but I would
need
> > lee's or riches help with the electric/electonic part. would it be
easy
> > to control with assist relative to pedal travel.
> >
> > self propelled swap pack:
> > Would I be crazy(money vs efficency) to aquire 2 rollers and make 2
> > equal EV's of shorter range than 1 longer range vehicle. I could
drive
> > to work and back in one while the other charged at home on solar and
> > late night grid, then swap EV's when I get home and head out to
school,
> > store, paintball, etc. Would this allow me to have a chaeper,
slower,
> > better charge cycle?
> >
> >
> >
> --
> EVDL
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Mark Dodrill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List \(E-mail\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Curtis controller repair info
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 21:52:53 -0700
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Just an FYI to the list. I sent my Curtis 1231C controller to Curtis in CA
for repair. Their flat fee is $850, and in return for your bad controller,
they send you a new or reconditioned one with a 2 year warrantee. The fee
isn't $400 as I saw posted earlier.
FYI.
Mark
--- End Message ---
