EV Digest 3832
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: My new EV!
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Ford Ranger motor
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Non-Polarized ultracaps
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) EAA Current Events
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Thanks : How to remove wheel nuts with a rear differential (?)
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) TEVan revived
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Traction Control (was First EV Sports Car)
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) The EDTA Should we care ??
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Gary Starr Fiero purchase
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) NEWLogon?
by "wordrite" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Traction Control (was First EV Sports Car)
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Traction Control (was First EV Sports Car)
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Gary Starr Fiero purchase
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Gary Starr Fiero purchase
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) ProEV's next race is Oct 30-31
by "Cliff Rassweiler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Gary Starr Fiero purchase
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
17) Stock traded for an EV?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) help w/ motor choice
by Iron Mountain Films <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: help w/ motor choice
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Gary Starr Fiero purchase
by "Shawn Waggoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: ProEV's Imp on track! (part 3)
by "Shawn Waggoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Stock traded for an EV?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Stock traded for an EV?
by michael bearden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) [EMAIL PROTECTED] mi: stupidity fries chrgr, susp., transm., and brake booster
noises
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
TiM M wrote:
> I bought a 1961 Corvair Rampside pickup truck
> that was converted to electric by a school in Arizona.
Sounds like fun! My first car was a 1961 Corvair van. They are very
strong vehicles for their weight.
> The guy I bought it from only charged it on 110V. What will this
> do to the batteries?
The Lester charges at lower current and to a lower ending voltage on
110vac. The batteries don't get quite as fully charged, and don't
equalize. It shortens their life if you never fully charge them.
> How do I determine the state of the current set of batteries?
What instrumentation does it have? You can use that to get an idea of
their condition. Individual battery voltages and the specific gravity
helps a lot, too.
> The problem is as a newbie I don�t have anything to reference
> these numbers to.
We can help there. Charge the batteries, then let the car sit idle at
least overnight, and measure the voltages and specific gravities.
> where one buys used batteries of a similar condition? A local
> golf cart shop maybe?
Yes, they can help. Be aware if they figure out you know nothing about
batteries, you might get sold junk.
> Or should I bite the bullet and replace the whole pack?
Not yet. Play with the present one first.
> The truck is pretty sluggish right now, I�m not
> sure if this is due to weak batteries, or if it�s due
> to trying to run a 3,700 lb truck around on 96V.
3700 lbs sounds heavy. My Corvan was only around 2500 lbs, I think. What
kind of batteries are in it? Sixteen 6v golf cart batteries would weigh
around 1000 lbs. Eliminating the gasoline motor and associated debris
should save around 300 lbs; 2500 - 300 + 1000 is only 3200 lbs.
But I agree; 96v on an ADC 9" motor in a 3200 lbs vehicle is going to be
sluggish.
> will boosting the pack by 24V give me that much of a boost?
Yes, it would be quite noticeable!
PS: Join CORSA, the Corvair Society of America. There is a *lot* of
support and parts available at reasonable prices for Corvairs.
Also note that your Corvair has swing axles in the rear. It will have
hideously high rolling resistance due to tire scrub unless you very
carefully "tune up" the rear suspension. I think air shocks are
virtually mandatory, or you won't be able to keep the tire scrub down.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Below is the discription of the motor. Isn't it worthless without the
proper controller? What does it take to get the BLDC for this unit.
Lawrence Rhodes.....
ELECTRIC VEHICLE MOTORS for "FORD RANGER TRUCKS"
NOTE: (Ford had Siemens build the motors for the Ford Ranger Truck)
FORD TRACTION MOTOR TYPE 1 PV5133 - 4WS20 W11
POWER = 67 KW (33 CONTINUOUS)
HORSEPOWER = 90 HP
MOTOR TYPE = 3 PHASE AC
ENERGY CAPACITY = PbA - 23 kWh/NiMH - 26 kWh
BATTERY TYPE = PbA/NiMH
BATTERY MODULES = PbA - 39/NiMH - 25
ALL OF THE ABOVE EV MOTORS ARE "NEW" UNUSED!
ABOUT "160" EV MOTORS ARE AVAILABLE FOR SALE .....IMMEDIATELY!
We are selling just the EV Motors ONLY. (we do not have any batteries).
Please contact us if you are interested in purchasing any of the above
merchandise or if you know of someone who is interested.
Contact: Harold (310) 632-9867 [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.mavin.com
(9/27/2004)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I heard now that they start off non-polarized (mentioned on the list
yesterday) and become polarized after being factory pre-charged so the
original salesman at the show was wrong, they can not be reversed in
operation.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: Non-Polarized ultracaps
> Mark Hanson wrote:
> > I was told by Maxwell that ultracaps are non-polarized and don't
> > care if they are reversed.
>
> Please check on that! The ones I am familiar *are* polarity sensitive,
> and fail if reversed.
>
> If Maxwell's are *not* polarity sensitive, and work equally well with
> either polarity, then they can effectively double the energy they can
> store by using them in a bipolar circuit (take them from +2.5v to
> -2.5v).
> --
> "Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
> citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
> has!" -- Margaret Mead
> --
> Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Howdy all,
I have been getting email kickbacks from Current EVents email addresses, havn't been
able to send my report to Current EVents (also havn't seen there magazine in awhile).
Does anyone have Ed thorpe's new email address and is Current EVents still afloat?
I've been trying [EMAIL PROTECTED] and other Current Events emails last night I had in
my address book.
thanks for helping, Mark www.solectrol.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My thanks to all that responded to my questions,
both on-line and offline :-)
Yup, sitting on the scooter and then removing the wheel
nuts was the way to go.
Even with the nuts off, the wheels were not designed to
easily come off. There is two spine keys (180 degrees from
each other) on the shaft from the differential.
So, some pounding on the tires while rotating them, I
worked the wheel off the keyed shaft.
Once off, I found the rear tires were 250 x 50. I would
have made all the tires the same instead of making the
front tire smaller using a 200 x 50 size.
Deflating the tube and the removal of four bolts in the
wheel plates made easy work to disassemble the wheel.
After the 'slime' tube liner was inserted, the reassembly
was straight forward, but with the tube so small, I had
to make an extra effort to keep the two wheel plates
from pinching the tube.
I found slightly inflating the tube made it more 'round'
thus keeping it out of the area where the wheel plates
would pinch them during wheel reassembly.
To pump them up, I pulled out my RV Electric tire pump.
It was made to use the 12 VDC lighter socket, so I also
pulled out the 12 VDC automotive battery charger.
Positive and negative clips connected with the correct
polarity (tip is positive, sides are negative), and I
was pumping air.
I brought the tires up to 5 lbs, and reshaped the tube
in the tire by squeezing the tire all the way around.
You could feel and hear the tube pop into place. Then,
I finished pumping up the tire to its rated 55 psi.
Before putting all the tools away, I decided to take
the scooter for spin to see if it felt right and if I
had forgotten anything.
All was well, no thumping, and the scooter was still
driving straight.
I hooked up the front and rear reflectors, lights, and
straps I had bought. Some have warned me of the
instability of these scooters. I am also quite concerned
of not being seen by SUVs that are riding very high in
the air.
I do not want to be remembered as a large lump of
'road kill'.
After I cleaned up and put the scooter on a charge, I
went in to check my email. Though I did not get any new
requests for the rebuilt PCs I sell to make money for
the conductive charging installation fund (my second
job that does not pay), I did get a disappointing email.
What was my 'once a week' ride, has now had to cancel out
permanently. He is frustrated with his chronically cranky
ICE, poor repairs from Sears, a series of customers canceled
on him which cuts his cash flow, and so he is not coming
up my way.
It isn't critical for me, as I have wheels using the scooter
(though it is nice to get out and about). But the timing
isn't real good. The Rally EAA Current EVents were dropped
off with me for the Silicon Valley EAA Rally coming up Oct
9th http://eaasv.org . The scooter does not have a way to
stow the large box of CEs.
Well, I am resourceful enough to find another ride to get
these to the right person. Maybe, I can sweet talk them into
also picking up the donated dead PC carcases I need to
build more PCs?
Next month is going to mean changes, and should not have
to deal with any of this.
I (finally) got an email from my manager (his is busy),
stating what the requirements are for me to return to
work. I also have the additional requirements of the
client manager at the work site.
So, I need to get the cast off, be able to walk down the
stairs encase of fire, not be on any deleterious
medications, and wait until the construction at work is
completed (huh? - don't ask).
I figure by that time, I will be able to drive my Blazer EV.
Ahhhhhh, ... The Freedom to Drive Electric!
:-zzz
=====
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor, RE & AFV newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
=====
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The TEVan made the 22 mile drive to work.
I'll cross my fingers hope I don't have a repeat
of last Friday when the control died.
I talked to some friends at GE who said that
Steve in Colorado also got his van running.
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Philippe Borges wrote:
> I suppose the Tzero can beat them in short drag race because it use traction
> control...
The tZero beats them because it is geared for acceleration (not top speed), because it
has an
excellent power to weight ratio and only has 2400 lbs. to get moving from rest, and
because it
has instantaneous electric torque. As to traction, the video of the race between it
and a Porsche
Carrera 4 in the rain, is a traction controlled rear wheel drive car (tZero) vs an all
wheel
drive car (the Porsche), if anything, the Porsche had the traction advantage.
>...do sport ICE cars have it ?
Yes, in fact, most of today's higher end sport sedans and sports cars have it. Most
base
it on
the already-in-place ABS braking system. Where ABS controls wheel lockup during
braking,
reconfigured as traction control, computers use the same hardware to brake the wheel
that tries
to slip during loss of traction...think of FWD or RWD by themselves as regular air
conditioning....think of vehicles equipped with traction control as part of their ABS
system, as
a heat pump. BMW comes to mind, as for a while, they were running a commercial touting
one of
their powerful sport sedans with traction control.
> a french goodyear TV publicity said :
> without traction horsepower is nothing....
How true. My electric drag car struggles to get all its power to the ground. Adding the
sticky BF
Goodrich drag radials helped lower its overall ET by a noticeable difference. Front
drive 'rice
burners' had trouble getting their ETs into respectable territory until they mastered
the
art of
traction. Today's front drivers hook up just fine at the track, thank you, but it took
years to
get it all sorted out to where these high power to weight machines could compete with
rear wheel
drive platforms.
On the street or at the drag track, once the power level is raised, traction 'is'
everything. My
wife had an experience a few years back that she still savors today. In her Sube all
wheel drive
wagon set up with nice American Racing mags and shod with semi-sporting rubber, she
found herself
kind of dicing it out with a guy in a tricked out RX7 sports car. They came to a light,
side by
side on a hill in the rain. The guy was blipping the throttle and taunting for a stop
light drag,
so she obliged. The light changed...he nailed it and lit up his rear tires scratching
and clawing
to get traction....she nailed the Sube, all four tires bit and the drag'n wagon leaped
off the
line without any tire slip, and she blew him off easily....in this case, traction was
everything!
Rich Rudman's Goldie has impressive electric torque and tire-shredding power in a
small, light
front drive econo car. His 1/4 mile times suck because he lacks a limited slip diff.
and beefy
enough rubber. If he put BIG rubber up front, he'd probably vaporize his transaxle,
CVs, or
axles. If he had a bullet proof transaxle with limited slip and other heavy duty
hardware, this
little pocket rocket would go from 16s-17s, down into the mid 15's...into Bob Salem -
EV Rabbit
pickup territory. If he does all this, and adds his Z2K Zilla and 240V worth of Exide
Orbitals
(he has them sitting at his shop), the car would go deep into the 14s and probably into
the high
13s.
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Subject: Re: Fw: EDTA Recognizes the State of Florida as "E-Visionary"
From: Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2004 16:25:11 +0100
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> EDTA is an international association representing the development,
production and use of > battery, hybrid and fuel cell electric drive
technologies and supporting infrastructure.
For >> more information about EDTA, visit www.electricdrive.org or
call 202.408.0774.
Hummm... I was very skeptical about this org. as I am about the former
EVAA. and other so called EV Trade Org's. But I actually recognized one
or two of their Board Members, like Robert Stempel, and folks from
Toyota, and in their page on other EV Related Web pages, they actually
had a LINK to the EAA. Folks interested in these HIGH ROLLER type org's
should poke round their page, and look at the list of MEMBERS. ZAP is
in there (for what that is worth) and GEM also.. Too bad the
registration fee for a Non-Profit group like the EAA, or NEDRA is
$1,500. Sure would like our "Grass Roots EV Folksk" to have a way of
giving these Big Shots our INPUT !!!
EAA Board ! Could you folks negotiate that FEE with these folks ??? I
know some times ORG's will make exceptions.... For instance, our
last EVent here in Seattle, they wanted $150. per car to enter. It
was a non-profit private School, which was putting on an Eco-Fair.
Turns out we all got in for NOTHING !!!
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The guy I sold my electric Fiero to claims
that Gary wants to buy it from him using $6000 in Zap
stock and $1000 cash.
Supposedly he can sell the stock in 1 year.
Sounds kind of fishy to me, what do you think?
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
List: Can you provide login instructions to the person on the Cc line?
I have forgotten mine.
Thanks,
Ohmsmobile Gone
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 7:26 AM
Subject: Traction Control (was First EV Sports Car)
> Rich Rudman's Goldie has impressive electric torque and tire-shredding
power in a small, light
> front drive econo car. His 1/4 mile times suck because he lacks a limited
slip diff. and beefy
> enough rubber. If he put BIG rubber up front, he'd probably vaporize his
transaxle, CVs, or
> axles. If he had a bullet proof transaxle with limited slip and other
heavy duty hardware, this
> little pocket rocket would go from 16s-17s, down into the mid 15's...into
Bob Salem - EV Rabbit
> pickup territory. If he does all this, and adds his Z2K Zilla and 240V
worth of Exide Orbitals
> (he has them sitting at his shop), the car would go deep into the 14s and
probably into
> the high
> 13s.
>
> See Ya.....John Wayland
>
Stuff a Stock field case onto the motor dial in 13+ Deg of advance, and set
the Rev limter to 6500, and come hunting the Big One Double Oh!
Also sitting in my shop are 12 charger orders and over 100 Regs to make.
A trip to So Cal next week, and the rains of fall are getting closer.
Sigh....
Got the toys and the Funds... No got the time....
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
thanks for your explanation John.
Philippe
Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 4:26 PM
Subject: Traction Control (was First EV Sports Car)
> Hello to All,
>
> Philippe Borges wrote:
>
> > I suppose the Tzero can beat them in short drag race because it use
traction
> > control...
>
> The tZero beats them because it is geared for acceleration (not top
speed), because it has an
> excellent power to weight ratio and only has 2400 lbs. to get moving from
rest, and
> because it
> has instantaneous electric torque. As to traction, the video of the race
between it and a Porsche
> Carrera 4 in the rain, is a traction controlled rear wheel drive car
(tZero) vs an all wheel
> drive car (the Porsche), if anything, the Porsche had the traction
advantage.
>
> >...do sport ICE cars have it ?
>
> Yes, in fact, most of today's higher end sport sedans and sports cars have
it. Most base
> it on
> the already-in-place ABS braking system. Where ABS controls wheel lockup
during braking,
> reconfigured as traction control, computers use the same hardware to brake
the wheel that tries
> to slip during loss of traction...think of FWD or RWD by themselves as
regular air
> conditioning....think of vehicles equipped with traction control as part
of their ABS
> system, as
> a heat pump. BMW comes to mind, as for a while, they were running a
commercial touting one of
> their powerful sport sedans with traction control.
>
> > a french goodyear TV publicity said :
> > without traction horsepower is nothing....
>
> How true. My electric drag car struggles to get all its power to the
ground. Adding the
> sticky BF
> Goodrich drag radials helped lower its overall ET by a noticeable
difference. Front drive 'rice
> burners' had trouble getting their ETs into respectable territory until
they mastered the
> art of
> traction. Today's front drivers hook up just fine at the track, thank you,
but it took
> years to
> get it all sorted out to where these high power to weight machines could
compete with rear wheel
> drive platforms.
>
> On the street or at the drag track, once the power level is raised,
traction 'is'
> everything. My
> wife had an experience a few years back that she still savors today. In
her Sube all wheel drive
> wagon set up with nice American Racing mags and shod with semi-sporting
rubber, she found herself
> kind of dicing it out with a guy in a tricked out RX7 sports car. They
came to a light,
> side by
> side on a hill in the rain. The guy was blipping the throttle and taunting
for a stop
> light drag,
> so she obliged. The light changed...he nailed it and lit up his rear tires
scratching and clawing
> to get traction....she nailed the Sube, all four tires bit and the drag'n
wagon leaped off the
> line without any tire slip, and she blew him off easily....in this case,
traction was everything!
>
> Rich Rudman's Goldie has impressive electric torque and tire-shredding
power in a small, light
> front drive econo car. His 1/4 mile times suck because he lacks a limited
slip diff. and beefy
> enough rubber. If he put BIG rubber up front, he'd probably vaporize his
transaxle, CVs, or
> axles. If he had a bullet proof transaxle with limited slip and other
heavy duty hardware, this
> little pocket rocket would go from 16s-17s, down into the mid 15's...into
Bob Salem - EV Rabbit
> pickup territory. If he does all this, and adds his Z2K Zilla and 240V
worth of Exide Orbitals
> (he has them sitting at his shop), the car would go deep into the 14s and
probably into
> the high
> 13s.
>
> See Ya.....John Wayland
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The guy I sold my electric Fiero to claims that Gary wants to buy it
from him using $6000 in Zap stock and $1000 cash.
Zap stock is akin to worthless, imo, so the offer is $1000 for an
electric Fiero. Zap may not even be here in a year.
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Megasite
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX - 801-749-7807
message - 866-872-8901
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
IMHO:
The EV looks like it is worth more than $7000.
http://hower.iwarp.com/images/fieros.jpg
I have more confidence in Confederate money than Zap Stock.
Zap is beyond fishy, it is rotten fish: slimly and you
do not want to mess with it.
[Why do you think Gary is trying to unload it!?!]
The guy should ask Gary for the full amount in cash.
That way he shouldn't get burned, and won't go away from
the deal smelling bad (like fish of anything else).
-
From: Rod Hower
Date: Fri Oct 1, 2004 8:54 am
Subject: Gary Starr Fiero purchase
The guy I sold my electric Fiero to claims
that Gary wants to buy it from him using $6000 in Zap
stock and $1000 cash.
Supposedly he can sell the stock in 1 year.
Sounds kind of fishy to me, what do you think?
Rod
-
=====
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor, RE & AFV newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
=====
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Imp will not be running this weekend at Homestead Miami Raceway. Our BMS
system is not fully functional and we have made the tough decision not to
risk damaging the batteries. We apologize to those planning on coming out to
watch.
Our next race is Oct 30-31 at Moroso Motorsports Park in West Palm Beach,
Florida. Everybody is welcome.
Cliff
www.ProEV.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah someone offered me $2500.00 for my Henney Kilowatt OR $5,000 in zap stock.
I told him cash only, no stock. He didn't contact me back.
James
Quoting Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> > The guy I sold my electric Fiero to claims that Gary wants to buy it
>
> > from him using $6000 in Zap stock and $1000 cash.
>
> Zap stock is akin to worthless, imo, so the offer is $1000 for an
> electric Fiero. Zap may not even be here in a year.
>
> -Ken Trough
> Admin - V is for Voltage Megasite
> http://visforvoltage.com
> AIM - ktrough
> FAX - 801-749-7807
> message - 866-872-8901
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It's truly amazing that anyone with ZAP stock would think it of any value
whatsoever within the EV community...as if we have no knowledge of this
company's history or Gary Starr - ZAP's most prodigious output now is press
releases.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
new to list, not so new to EVs . I have a converted Civic running 96 volts 16 6v's
1231c 77 curtis and I've blown my 8" ADC. It lifted comm bars. Can anybody compare
the Netgain warp 8 to the ADC? Any more power at 96v? I know the WarP 8 has some kind
of locked comm bars. I am interested mostly in longevity but if I can get a little
more oomph that would be great. I plan to go to 8 volts on my next battery change.
thanks
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
--- Iron Mountain Films <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> new to list, not so new to EVs . I have a converted
> Civic running 96 volts 16 6v's 1231c 77 curtis and
> I've blown my 8" ADC. It lifted comm bars. Can
> anybody compare the Netgain warp 8 to the ADC? Any
> more power at 96v? I know the WarP 8 has some kind
> of locked comm bars. I am interested mostly in
> longevity but if I can get a little more oomph that
> would be great. I plan to go to 8 volts on my next
> battery change. thanks
>
Welcome, several points may help you.
Honda's have the opposite rotation of other cars
in their trans. So make sure the advance in your motor
goes the right way.
Another problem could be driving in too high a
gear, always use the lowest gear you can so to keep
the power required, amps to it's lowest level. Only
shift up if you need a higher top speed. This
decreases load thus amps and gains you range and
keeping the motor cool.
8 volt batts don't have that good a record for
long life.
I'd try to increase motor rpm by either field
weakening, a lower voltage motor or a higher batt
voltage so to get a higher speed in a lower gear and
more power available at higher speeds.
If buying a new motor or having yours rebuilt you
should get a lower voltage like 72 or 48vdc one so to
increase the rpm it will put out for top speed at your
batt voltage.
You want the motor turning at about 4,00-5,500rpm
for a stock good adc, ge series motors for eff. The
nice thing about Net Gain and other motor builders is
they can reinforce, finely tune it so it can spin
higher like 6,500rpm reliably thus allowing even lower
gearing, numericly higher, that puts more torque,
tractive effort, to the road for the same amps.
Remove the fan as it eats power and replace it with
an electric blower so to cool it when turning slow
which is when it needs it.
If you want your motor to stay healthy, keep it
turning fairly fast! Don't lug it!
This will give greater pep without having to change
your batt pack and increase your range from lowering
the load on the batts, motor.
If you hit the go pedal and the car doesn't move,
let off quickly or you overheat the same comm bar
lifting it.
Just some points that may or may not apply,
jerry dycus
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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--- Begin Message ---
Earlier this year, when we were trying to sell the Tropica (Brad's new
one), Gary offered us stock instead of cash, and then tried a 50/50
deal. We of course, turned down both deals. (I'm sure Brad's happier for
it!)
On the flip-side, at the time the stock was trading for $.61/share, now
it's at $1.83/share. Bad move? Who knows what you'll get a year from
now. However, the old saying comes to mind; "A bird in the hand..."
Good luck,
Shawn Waggoner
Florida EAA
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 18:38
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Gary Starr Fiero purchase
Yeah someone offered me $2500.00 for my Henney Kilowatt OR $5,000 in zap
stock.
I told him cash only, no stock. He didn't contact me back.
James
Quoting Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> > The guy I sold my electric Fiero to claims that Gary wants to buy
it
>
> > from him using $6000 in Zap stock and $1000 cash.
>
> Zap stock is akin to worthless, imo, so the offer is $1000 for an
> electric Fiero. Zap may not even be here in a year.
>
> -Ken Trough
> Admin - V is for Voltage Megasite
> http://visforvoltage.com
> AIM - ktrough
> FAX - 801-749-7807
> message - 866-872-8901
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cliff,
First, great write-up! Sorry we couldn't stay for the races, but glad we
could help.
Second, I wanted to say I'm glad you're doing what you're doing with the
race team and sharing it with us. There is a lot of focus on 1/4 mile
racing with EVs, but a lot of other types are out there. Not many EV
folks in the SCCA realm. Having seen the car, and had the opportunity to
help a little, I can see there is a lot of engineering and design that
has gone into that car. I look forward to watching you break records and
win against the ICE cars! Glad you're part of the Florida Group. Good
luck and keep up the great work!
Shawn M. Waggoner
Florida EAA
(Excited EV'r who got to help out just a little on a great car!)
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cliff Rassweiler
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 09:14
To: EV List
Subject: ProEV's Imp on track! (part 3)
This is a continuation of the write up of our road racing adventures
back in
July.
At 6:45 Sunday morning, the voltage is 333 or what we guess is about 65%
charge. By race time is has rising to 338 volts. Best guess 70% charge.
We arrange to start from pit lane. The rest of the cars will do a warm
up
lap and then take the green. Our plan is to come out behind them, do a
slow
lap to get a clear track and then do three hot laps.
Everything is working fine. The pack thunders by and we are waved out
onto
the track. I am light on the throttle, keeping the amps below 150. I
carry
speed in the corners and the tires come in quickly. I get a little too
enthusiastic through the chicane and use too much of the exit curb. It
launches me straight, and to the outside of the tarmac. I catch the car.
Defiantly, not the fast line through this corner.
Just before turn 9, I look ahead to make sure I will have a clear run.
Thru
turn 10, I am hard on it.
The car accelerates and accelerates. It hits 5,600 rpm and keeps on
going.
It
reaches 6,315 RPM. I lift a little early to get my braking right.
Regen current is 280 amps and voltage rises a little to 343 volts (3.89
per
cell). This means around 156 lbf-ft of retardations by regen. I am
trying to
go to full brake with the regen and then modulate the friction brake
pedal
to give me the total slowing that I need. Looking at the data trace, I
seem
to have modulate both. Total time regenning 4.6 seconds. The car slows
rapidly and the transition through turn in is smooth.
I feed on the throttle and back to 600 amps quickly. 4,852 rpm before
turn
3.
Again full regen 240 amps taper off as I modulate for 2.7 seconds.
The turn 3 and 4 complex is a fairly long double apex corner. Half way
through, the car is filling with white smoke. This is not good. I exit
the
corner and move off the racing line. The smoke clears a little. The turn
5
flag station does not really have a good place to pull off close enough
for
the workers to get an extinguisher on the car quickly. As I use regen to
slow the
car for turn 5, I get some more smoke. I keep going, torn between
mashing
the pedal to get there and my suspicion that this will only make the
problem
worst.
I pull off just beyond the corner worker station at turn 6. The smoke
immediately dissipates. I wait with my hand ready on the built in fire
extinguisher. No more smoke.
I signal OK to the corner workers and pull further off track. I sit and
let
the car cool. I wait until the all the racecars pass me twice, then
drive
quickly back to the pits. Everything works fine including regen. No more
smoke appears but the smell remains. The batteries read 42 degree C, up
from
26.6 C starting temp but still below the 60 degree C maximum recommended
by
Kokam.
First thing the crew checks is the tires for rub. That could give us
white
smoke when cornering but the smoke didn't smell right. We speak with Dr.
Kim
from Kokam and he assures us that if the batteries were off gassing, the
smell would be very unpleasant. This is a relief, but we still need to
find
what was smoking.
What about the 'bundling' tape. We used lots of it as we assembled the
car.
It is a silver plastic tape that can be easily pulled off without
leaving
residue. This makes it incredibly convenient. What would happen to it if
something beneath it got hot?
We plug in a soldering iron and put some tape on it. It melts producing
a
faint white smoke. It smells a lot like the smoke inside the car. The
whole
crew crowds around sniffing the soldering iron. I'm not sure this is
going
to help our reputation any.
The smoke seemed to have come from the behind the seat. If so, it will
require removing the inverter before we can pull the battery cover and
see.
There is only a little time before the next race, so we decide not to
push
our luck. There will be other weekends.
Kw-hrs used: 3.48. warm up lap 2.25 miles at .225 = .506. Hot lap 2.25
used
2.97 = 1.32 kw-hr per mile.
And so ends the Electric Imp's soft debut.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> It's truly amazing that anyone with ZAP stock would think it of any value
> whatsoever within the EV community...as if we have no knowledge of this
> company's history or Gary Starr - ZAP's most prodigious output now is press
> releases.
Say... tell him you'll trade him some Zebra Motors stock for his ZAP
stock... or U.S.Electricar, or Solar Automotive, or Jet Industries, or
Renaissance Motors, or...
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah...and amen.
Ask Brian Hall about ZAP...
Michael B.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's truly amazing that anyone with ZAP stock would think it of any value
whatsoever within the EV community...as if we have no knowledge of this
company's history or Gary Starr - ZAP's most prodigious output now is press
releases.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sometimes EVs are not for perfectionists.
1) Vacuum pump turning on after each brake actuation.
Not safe. Traced it to a faulty brake booster-- after
98K miles... Something that is no matter in an ICE
rig, but obnoxious in an EV. New brake booster: $300
new + time.
2) Spring rubbing against sleeve of coil-over. 10"
springs not enough. Need to swap for 12". N/C, but
time.
3) Pesky noise from transmission. Hmmm, there seems
to be a slightly bent CV axle. Wonder if _that_
thrashed the transmission...! It is WAYYY more noisy
than my VoltsRabbit. Still TBD is what in the
transmission is causing the noise. Likely it will come
down to yanking it, and rebuilding the tranny.
$300-500+ time.
UNFORTUNATELY, I managed to short my PFC-20 in the
process. I broke 3 VERY SERIOUS RULES of working with
EVs, novices:
1) Don't work on the car without pulling the breaker;
2) Don't work on the car while it's charging.
3) If you brake rules 1 & 2, make DAMN sure you're
using insulated wrenches!
So here I am, driving my brother's Integra, waiting
for parts and repairs, and feeling pretty stupid.
Maybe someone else can benefit from my mistake.
=====
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you
saving any gas for your kids?
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