EV Digest 3893
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: 4 ETEK Motor(s) Info
by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Bad battery in the D
by Michael Hoskinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Honda's Electric Powered Scooters
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: What is the best way to take the transmission out of a pickup truck?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: What is the service life of transmission and differential fluids?
by "Patrick Maston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Powered road
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: 4 ETEK Motor(s) Info
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Electro Hydraulic Brake Booster
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Power Steering Pump Connections - confirmation
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: SAFT STM5-180MR still an active product, Rod and Joes questions
reply
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Powered road
by "Kirk A. Reinkens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: SAFT STM5-180MR still an active product, Rod and Joes questions reply
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Powered road
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: What is the service life of transmission and differential fluids?
by "Patrick Maston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Dump Charging "Profiles" !
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Request for Paul Wallace
by David Chapman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Powered road
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Clutchless
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Dump Charging "Profiles" !
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Request for Paul Wallace
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) power steering motor
by "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Are mechanical and body parts for the '80 Subaru microvans still available?
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Are mechanical and body parts for the '80 Subaru microvans
still available?
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Ryan,
Sounds like an add on for an insight???I hope so as I
am thinking about how I can make my insight a plugin
hybred and this is one of the ideas I have been
considering.
let me know if you are thinking/working on an insight
or if there are any others on the list who are working
on Insights lets share
thanks
keith
--- Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> With all this E-TEK talk I thought It might be a
> good time to ask
> if anyone knows of a good controller to run 4 e-tek
> motors with?
>
> I'll skip going in-depth regarding a contactor
> controller that
> I would like to "play" with. Four Motors gives me
> three motor
> configurations, 4Parallel, 4Series, and
> 2P+Series+2P...
> Two motors per rear wheel with a single reduction
> gear ratio.
>
> ... So I'm thinking about skipping the contactor
> controller, for
> the moment, starting out with a real PWM controller
> with regen.
>
> I like the sound of the 4Quad Alltrax with regen.
> http://www.alltraxinc.com/old/prod09.htm
> The largest one is the AXE-7245 for 72Volts By
> 450Amps.
> So I think I would want two of them, one per pair of
> motors.
> In Parallel mode I could push all 450Amps into them
> without
> concern, in Series mode I could go all the way up to
> 72Volts.
>
> Alternately I could use a single controller with
> limits of:
> Mode 1 - Series - - 192v @ 400Amps
> Mode 2 - Para-Ser - 96v @ 800Amps
> Mode 3 - Parallel - 48v @ 1600Amps (400A per motor)
> I'd like to keep the battery voltage low at arround
> 72v to 96v.
> So how would a Zilla 1K run 4 E-Teks at 96v? using
> Modes 2 & 3.
> Mode 3 would electrically lock the rear wheel rpms,
> where as
> Mode 2 will allow each wheel to rotate at different
> speeds for
> better cornering. Does the Zilla do regen? Will it
> drive E-Teks?
>
> Untill I can install advanced batteries I only
> expect to get
> 5-15 miles of range with minimal PbA. Till then I'm
> looking
> for maximum "performance", accelleration, and
> Grin-ability.
>
> L8r
> Ryan
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page.
www.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No, the terminal was tight and not even very warm during this event.
Reversed cell, 100%. I checked over my records of voltage and SG. That
battery was initially on the lower end of the voltage spread and one of
the cells had low fully charged SG from the start. I did an acid
transfusion, taking out a bunch of fluid from that cell and switching it
with some from a cell from another battery that was higher than others.
The cell of battery #14 that I did that to was not the one that
failed. Maybe that battery required longer to fully charge due to
higher resistance? In the past 6 months or so I have noticed that its
voltage was always the lowest on charge.
I think that I will put it on a 6 volt charger until it is for sure
fully charged then do a capacity test, compare it with one of the
others. Cahnces are it is pooched.
Mike
Joe Smalley wrote:
Is it possible that battery had a loose negative terminal? If it did, you
are lucky it did not melt and leave you stranded. The heat may have wicked
down the terminal post to heat up the water.
If you water the battery and retest it for capacity, and the capacity is
back, then this may have been the cause.
I would give it a 10% chance that happened. I would give it a 90% chance
that you reversed it and the capacity went down due to this event.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Hoskinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 9:07 AM
Subject: Bad battery in the D
I quickly checked temperatures with my IR thermometer. The
negative end of #14 was 70C! The positive end was 42C. Most of the
other batteries were in the high 30's. I took the caps off #14; the
most negative cell was steaming. Ow! What have I done?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
>
> I just picked , what I beliave was one of Mike Brown's rabbit conversion
> kits , with the Rabbit tranny . So I'm looking for cars to put it in .
> Sounds like the adptor will fit a few different cars :-) what cars should
I
> be looking for that will take this fine kit . I'd also add here after
> seeing one , that these kits are very well done , and can see where using
> one would make the job a lot easyer.
>
> H
Steve;
Howbout an older Jetta, Fox or Golf. Tony Ascrizzi did a real nice
conversion of a older Golf , sed that the tranny was the same as a Rabbit, I
gave him a good Rabbit tranny to replace the Golf's one that reverse died.
In FLA ya might find some clean rust free ones?
Seeya
Bob
>
>
> >
> > I have a battered,white,4door, bent front strut 88 Jetta that I'd be
> > happy to GIVE to anybody that wants to transplant the Rabbit stuff into.
> > Body is sound, no holes, a bit mouldy inside, but would clean up. I had
it
> > running once as a gasser, but I don't think it is streetable as is..yur
> > call? Needs the basic Jetta/ Rabbit fixin's @#$%^ Door handles are
busted,
> > cracked taillite lenses, missing front grill. Who cares? You were gunna
'
> > glas over it anyhow. I Just have too damn many projects for now.
> >
> > It is in south central CT, Killingworth, hasz a title, all that
crap.
> >
> > Hate to send it to the scrapyard.
> >
> > Seeya]
> >
> > Bob
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 14:23:54 -0500
From: RemyC <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Honda's Electric Powered Scooters
From:
http://www.greencar.com/index.cfm?content=news&ArticleID=48
Honda's Electric Powered Scooters
So you thought that Honda's fuel cell efforts were directed only at cars?
Think again. Honda has unveiled three new scooter prototypes that offer
three different methods of propulsion, including fuel cell (shown), hybrid
electric, and pure electric. The power unit in Honda's fuel cell scooter is
derived from the company's advanced FC stack, in use in the automaker's
limited production FCX passenger vehicle but redesigned in this application
to be smaller and lighter.
All are developmental concepts without any plans for production, aimed at
exploring the potential for alternative transportation in the single-seat
vehicle class. That said, if one were to move forward toward production, it
would likely be Honda's entirely electric-powered Moped-EV scooter. Built
around a compact aluminum frame weighing less than 100 pounds, this scooter
features a 360 watt-hour nickel-metal-hydride battery powerful enough to
allow it to climb a 12 degree incline.not bad for an electric scooter. A
module in the scooter's rear wing arm integrates the electric motor and
controller, with driver input provided by a thumb lever rather than a
traditional grip throttle.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Four Jack stands and a transmission jack will do the job. Use a jack to
lift the front of the truck. Insert jack stands. Jack up the back of the
truck. Insert jack stands. They are sumetimes called safety stands. No
way to do it with the wheels on the ground. The safety stands will give the
clearance you need.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Wallace" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 12:50 PM
Subject: What is the best way to take the transmission out of a pickup
truck?
The Clutchnet clutch in my S-10 has been chattering for some time now. I
suspect that it got over reved at the brake shop or the suspension shop a
couple of years ago or possibly there is a transmission fluid leak. In
any case, the last times I have had the transmission out, I lifted it and
the motor out through the engine bay as a unit using an engine lift. To
do the clutch replacement, I only want to remove the transmission from
below the truck. I don't have a hydraulic floor lift so I need to figure
out how to do this with the truck in my garage sitting on its tires.
Should I get 4 ramps to run the truck up on?
What is the best way to support the weight of the transmission and still
be able to maneuver it to the motor adapter plate without killing myself?
I was thinking that one of the hydraulic ATV stands might work? I also
have seen hydraulic floor jacks with saddles built to hold a transmission.
How easy are these to use?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Doesn't the Fox have a for-and-aft engine layout, like the Quantum? I
believe Golfs (Rabbits) and Jettas have a sideways engine.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 6:40 AM
Subject: Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
I just picked , what I beliave was one of Mike Brown's rabbit conversion
kits , with the Rabbit tranny . So I'm looking for cars to put it in .
Sounds like the adptor will fit a few different cars :-) what cars
should
I
be looking for that will take this fine kit . I'd also add here after
seeing one , that these kits are very well done , and can see where using
one would make the job a lot easyer.
H
Steve;
Howbout an older Jetta, Fox or Golf. Tony Ascrizzi did a real nice
conversion of a older Golf , sed that the tranny was the same as a Rabbit,
I
gave him a good Rabbit tranny to replace the Golf's one that reverse died.
In FLA ya might find some clean rust free ones?
Seeya
Bob
>
> I have a battered,white,4door, bent front strut 88 Jetta that I'd be
> happy to GIVE to anybody that wants to transplant the Rabbit stuff
> into.
> Body is sound, no holes, a bit mouldy inside, but would clean up. I had
it
> running once as a gasser, but I don't think it is streetable as is..yur
> call? Needs the basic Jetta/ Rabbit fixin's @#$%^ Door handles are
busted,
> cracked taillite lenses, missing front grill. Who cares? You were gunna
'
> glas over it anyhow. I Just have too damn many projects for now.
>
> It is in south central CT, Killingworth, hasz a title, all that
crap.
>
> Hate to send it to the scrapyard.
>
> Seeya]
>
> Bob
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul,
Have you checked the clutch? If it doesn't disengage all the way it
can make it very difficult to shift the transmission. Also, when the
throwout bearings go out they can become very noisy.
Patrick Maston
1981 Jet Electrica
>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11/1/04 12:15:03 PM >>>
I have noticed increased mechanical noise from the transmission in my
S-10 lately. The transmission has also become harder to upshift while
moving. I started thinking about the last time I changed the
transmission fluid. I checked my records and as near as I can tell, I
put Redline D4 ATF in the Borg Warner T5 manual transmission and light
weight gear oil in the differential in the spring of '99. I have put
about 40k miles on the truck since I put the new ATF in the
transmission.
How long should I expect these lubricants to last? Have I worn them
out?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone though to put grid power on the roads? An
idea sprang to mind regarding lack of power for range.
Transformers do not require direct power connections
to transfer power. I also know that grid power is very
high volts and reduced amps. Volt up amps down/volts
down brings amps up. IF the government were to lay a
grid into the road and EV could then pull the required
voltage from the grid while going down the road via
induction. No more range issues. Maybe this too is a
weird idea. Hybrids Straight EV's could both use the
power to drive the vehicle while charging batteries
from non-gridded areas. For metering usage you could
use the RFID tagging or a blue tooth port to send
usage to the Power distributors who could send you the
bill and place the road tax usage to maintain the
system. They would also be able to monitor cheater
using the same system power usage up going down the
road and no bluetooth or RFID tag. Licensed by our
very own motor vehicle system.
So the question remain has any one seen any type of
experiments or information on this? I am asking about
wireless power transmission to Electric Vehicles not
the wired Mass transit that lives in many cities
presently.
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page.
www.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't believe the controller that this link points to has regen. It does
have plug braking which is similar, but does not let you return any energy
back to your batteries. It converts it to heat in both the motor and
controller. It will slow you down.
I like the sound of the 4Quad Alltrax with regen.
http://www.alltraxinc.com/old/prod09.htm
The largest one is the AXE-7245 for 72Volts By 450Amps.
So I think I would want two of them, one per pair of motors.
In Parallel mode I could push all 450Amps into them without
concern, in Series mode I could go all the way up to 72Volts.
_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well I just received a Delco electro-hydraulic power booster from the
wreckers. This is an electrically operated brake booster that came from a
1986 Olds Station Wagon. I am just "experimenting" to see how it will work
in the VW New Beetle rather than using a vacuum pump, etc.
It is a big unit! I guess so, as it is designed for a "land boat" of a
vehicle. However, it is still smaller and quieter than the stock m.c.,
vacuum booster, vacuum pump and reservoir.
It is a very interesting unit: It is very similar to a normal master
cylinder. An electric hydraulic pump quietly brake fluid from the reservoir
to an accumulator on the side of the m.c. The fluid from the accumulator
then feeds into the m.c. under pressure. This is where the power assist
comes from. The electric pump is activated by the pressure switch on the
m.c. (which also activates the brake lights).
The next step is to build a matching plate and shaft.
A few concerns so far:
1. The travel distance of the VW m.c. is 30mm (1.25"), the Delco is 15mm
(.625") - I do not think I can adjust the pivot point on the brake pedal
easily.
2. the Delco m.c. mounts at an angle, the VW m.c. mounts perpendicular to
the firewall.
And one or two musings:
1. Hmm, could I adapt this to the VW m.c.?
2. How about I have a single electric-hydraulic pump for both the power
steering and the power brakes?
Too much fun..
Don
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ <outbind://24/www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John, thanks for the help.
Don
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Neon John
Sent: October 31, 2004 9:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Power Steering Pump Connections - confirmation
On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 14:58:49 -0800, "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>I do not know for sure, but shouldn't the cooler get the high pressure
>(hot) fluid, at the output of the pump?
No. The cooler is designed for low pressure service. It would burst if
subjected to the high side pressure. Since most of the time the spool is
open and low pressure fluid is circulating continuously, it doesn't matter
as far as cooling goes.
Don, your connection scheme is correct.
John
>David C. Wilker Jr.
>USAF (RET)
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 2:43 PM
>Subject: Power Steering Pump Connections - confirmation
>
>
>>I am just about to get the power steering pump hoses made up at the
>>local hydraulic shop, and I wanted to confirm that I have the
>>connections
>> correct:
>>
>> - from high pressure side of pump to high pressure side of steering
>> rack
>> - from low pressure side of steering rack to cooler
>> - from cooler to top of reservoir
>> - from bottom of reservoir to low pressure side of pump
>>
>> Does this sound right?
>>
>> thanks
>> Don
>>
>>
>>
>> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
>> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
>>
>>
>>
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rod,
I don't have current prices for the STM5-180. The MR on the end is a
faint memory for me. I think that it referred to them being air cooled.
MRE used to mean water cooled. The 180s were never made in water
cooled as far as I know, too bad.
Send Lou an email if you want a quote on new batteries and refurbish
costs. I sent mail and had a reply in an hour. A formal quote might
take longer. They used to quote by the wh I think. The last time I
heard, a single STM5-180 block was going for about $660. My batteries
were slightly used. I bought them from a person that had stored them
for a couple of years. Joe Smalley commissioned and tested them for me
for a small fee. The all up cost per block with testing was around
$220. Rich was gratious enough to deliver them to me from Washington.
I like these batteries because they are dependable and easy to charge.
The low maintanance version are a lot more picky.
Joe,
I am using the PFC-50 as I noted in another post, but only for bulk
charging. I am hoping that some of your newer charger versions, most
notably the isolated version, have a more sophisticated charge
controller with multistep algorithms available. I think most of us
using the PFC-50 for other than lead acid batteries are in the same
situation. We know what we would like to do, but we don't have the time
to build it and test it. When you are paying serious dollars for
batteries, another thousand or so for a charger seems to be a good
investment. Look at what Brusa gets for a nicad savvy charger.
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bruce:
Excellent idea! I have seen some microversions of this idea. Aircraft seats
"connector-less" power connections to power the headrest phones, etc. I
believe there are many challenges. This may have been implemented, but
alignment, durability, maintenance, etc. can become problems. Even with such
a benign, well controlled situation such as sliding seats for variations in
aircraft seating configuration there are problems that are difficult to
address. I'm pretty sure alignment and the associated losses would be
significant. I'm sure it could be done, but?
Seize the day! I miss my R&D days
Kirk
Spokane, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Weisenberger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 8:08 AM
Subject: Powered road
> Has anyone though to put grid power on the roads? An
> idea sprang to mind regarding lack of power for range.
> Transformers do not require direct power connections
> to transfer power. I also know that grid power is very
> high volts and reduced amps. Volt up amps down/volts
> down brings amps up. IF the government were to lay a
> grid into the road and EV could then pull the required
> voltage from the grid while going down the road via
> induction. No more range issues. Maybe this too is a
> weird idea. Hybrids Straight EV's could both use the
> power to drive the vehicle while charging batteries
> from non-gridded areas. For metering usage you could
> use the RFID tagging or a blue tooth port to send
> usage to the Power distributors who could send you the
> bill and place the road tax usage to maintain the
> system. They would also be able to monitor cheater
> using the same system power usage up going down the
> road and no bluetooth or RFID tag. Licensed by our
> very own motor vehicle system.
> So the question remain has any one seen any type of
> experiments or information on this? I am asking about
> wireless power transmission to Electric Vehicles not
> the wired Mass transit that lives in many cities
> presently.
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page.
> www.yahoo.com
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
MR means reduced maintenance - that is, they have internal catalytic
recombination and non-removeable tops. They still require watering, but
much less frequently. They have a central watering system. These modules
are more hassle to charge properly; that's the trade for less frequent watering.
MRE is the liquid cooled version.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bruce Weisenberger wrote:
> Has anyone thought to put grid power on the roads?
Yes! Electric trains (both toys and the real thing) are good examples.
The rails and/or an overhead wire provide the power. Clearly you can
reliably deliver *thousands* of horsepower this way.
There are also many examples of electric city buses and trolleys that
drive on regular streets, and get their power from overhead wires.
The usual complaints are that having the third rail (the "hot" one) on
the ground is dangerous (what if someone touches it?), and having it
overhead is "ugly". But I think these issues can be dealt with. For
example, the "hot" rail can be switched, so it is only powered when the
train (or bus or car) is actually sitting on it.
> Transformers do not require direct power connections to transfer
> power.
Quite true. There are lots of examples of systems where half of the
transformer is in the road, and the other half is in the vehicle. For
instance, Inductran Corp. has made such systems for many years. But
these are mainly used for stationary vehicles for battery charging. All
you do it park the EV in its proper place, and it gets charged. No need
to plug in anything. When the vehicle isn't present, standing on the
transformer half in the floor does nothing because it is turned off when
no vehicle is present.
Another approach is to put half of the electric *motor* in the vehicle,
and the other half in the road. This system is in use in EVs at Disney
World and the Dallas/Ft. Worth airport. The application is for
"peoplemover" electric buses that shuttle back and forth from place to
place. It's kind of a magnetically-coupled version of the San Francisco
cable cars.
> If the government were to lay a grid into the road, EVs could
> then pull the required voltage from the grid while going down
> the road via induction. No more range issues.
It is practical from a technological point of view. But, it has the
classic problem of who is going to pay for it. :-)
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul,
My Jet Electrica service manual says I never have to change the fluid.
It says it's lubricated for the "life of the vehicle," whatever that
means. I don't know if they used some special fluid when they filled it
in 1981, but I doubt it. My ICE car service manual says to change the
fluid every 60K miles, but it has a lot more horsepower than the Jet.
Hope this helps.
Patrick
>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11/1/04 12:15:03 PM >>>
I have noticed increased mechanical noise from the transmission in my
S-10 lately. The transmission has also become harder to upshift while
moving. I started thinking about the last time I changed the
transmission fluid. I checked my records and as near as I can tell, I
put Redline D4 ATF in the Borg Warner T5 manual transmission and light
weight gear oil in the differential in the spring of '99. I have put
about 40k miles on the truck since I put the new ATF in the
transmission.
How long should I expect these lubricants to last? Have I worn them
out?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> >I seem to remember when Rich started the design of his charger, he asked
> >the group how important different features were.
> >
> He asked wrong group. I meann he asked people on EVDL group which is
> ready to plunk
> the money NOW and what do we want for that money, and he built it.
> Naturally, most of the customers are on EVDL and do not represent
> "average". So, in terms of money, he sure *did* ask right group. Right
Rich?
>
> Victor
>
It's a matter of listening to the list, and spending time doing my own
charging.
The wish list, VS, What really has to be done right.
The majority of the list didn't even have voltage regulated chargers...
The Zivans, simply destroyed batteries.. and rather fast. They couldn't or
wouldn't support their own product in the US of A.
So... that kinda made the feature list really easy.
LOTs of power, PFC, and user adjustable with the simplest tools
available.
OK... Got Watts!!
GOT the most watts for the least Grid abuse... kinda the same thread of
getting the most Watts.
We all have screwdrivers..... and know how to use them.
We all have meters, and amps gages.... Why bother add more cost???
Ok.... now I always said the killer features, the PC, data base the
Webaddress control interface... were coming, as soon as I had time and was
paid for them.
Well I have NOT had the time..... Just the above basic features have kept me
buried...
Now have a client that needs all the killer cycle control and voltage
controls... and a data base... and is willing to pay for the development.
So... all our neat stuff that has been gathering dust is being
brought out and tested and refined for this product.
Instead of incorporating this into the charger controller brain, we are
doing the software and brains off board, So we can keep selling the cheaper
more affordable systems, and not stop production while we spend a couple of
man months debugging code, and hardware.
Of course this lets us develop the control software, and features that
WILL be needed with a full micro controlled charger. What we learn will be
used on later generations of chargers. And the interfaces will get a LOT
smaller... and more cost effective. But for now anything that can run the
code, is better than nothing.
Joe Does QBasic and Dos down a Rs-485 link rather well.
I want LabView and a USB port, and XP. You will note that the upfront
costs are a bit different ........ And I have not written code in years...I
want to.. but production has it's demands.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul,
If you could send me (offlist) Mr. Magnarella's contact info I would
greatly appreciate it. Especially if you have a work phone #. Thanks David
Chapman.
PS, sorry for posting this to the list but I am using a new e-mail client
that hides address' and I havn't had the time to figure out how to decode
yet. DC.
Send Lou an email if you want a quote on new batteries and refurbish
costs. I sent mail and had a reply in an hour. A formal quote might take
longer.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 08:08 AM 11/2/04 -0800, you wrote:
Has anyone though to put grid power on the roads?
Yup. There was much talk about this a few years ago. Never went anywhere,
outside of a short demo section of roadway built down by L.A. The big
problem is the cost. It would be very expensive to tear up and install
this in any significant number of roads. Then you would also need a
siginificant number of cars able to use it to make it worthwhile.
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You will need a separate pump to supply oil pressure to the clutches but
it can be done.
I seem to remember somebody tried this for circle track racing with an
IC engine , they eliminated the torque convertor and installed a dump
valve to the oil circuit for low gear. With the valve open the engine
could idle and be started (not necessary with electric). The dump valve
could be eliminated also. However you will need oil pressure to apply
the clutches even though there will not be an engine turning the oil pump.
Mike G.
Reverend Gadget wrote:
I'd like to know if anyone know enough about an
automatic trans to tell me how hard it would be to use
the auomatic without the torque converter. I have
decided to convert my big 1 ton work truck as well as
my monter beemer to a grid series hybrids. both of
these vehicles have a C6 auto trans. and I will need
the three speed to drive them. I have hills and
highways to contend with. I have some time to work
things out as I'm going to finish my electric sunbeam
first.
Gadget
--- David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
You may not need to be that fancy. If you have the
motor's rpm you
can do a simple algorithm:
If near max rpm, drop to 2/3 this rpm for the
next gear up (2/3
or whatever the ratio that car has.
If low rpm, increase rpm by 1.5 (or whatever
that car's ratio is)
To improve this you could also take into account the
car's speed.
Next step in complexity would be to put sensors on
the shift to see
what thet intended gear is.
--- brian baumel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I am also considering a clutchless system,
actually a clutchless
and shiftless type of system. a micro controller
and gear boxes
would take care of the shifting and RPM matching,
but the question
is, how does the uC know what RPM to match? I can
easily put an
encoder on the flywheel, but what internal gear
should I be
tracking....and how? I plan on keeping the clutch
in there for the
"mechanical fuse" advantage...
Brian B.
Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I am considering the same but I also like
the "mechanical fuse" aspect the clutch adds.
If you can search the archives, Bill Dube
(sometimes spelled Bill
Dube')
had some good comments about the huge shock to
the transmission
when you
hit a pothole.
good point
As for me, I'm going clutchless, but hopefully
not shiftless. My
AC motor
can spin almost 10K rpm, and the thought of
spinning a massive
clutch
plate that fast scares me. The balance shop would
not touch it
after I
told him how fast it might go. And I was worried
that the slighest
imbalance would bend the motor shaft.
What I ended up doing is machining an adaptor out
of 7075 aluminum
that
holds the inner portion of the clutch. It still
has the springs
between
the two parts of the clutch to help take up some
of the shock, and
a tiny
amount of misalignment. As for shifting, since my
controler
supports
regen, I believe I can make an embedded
controller that will
measure the
motor speed and the speed of the gears I will
shift to, and
quickly match
the RPMs for easier shifting.
Awsome, My first idea was to use PM motors and a
lot of shifting
and was thinking of the same type of shift
control.
I probably didn't need my home made adaptor
balanced because they
only
drilled two little holes (I'm sure just to make
me feel like I got
something for my money!).
"What?!? you charged me $40 just to drill those
two tiny little
holes???"
"No, I charged you one dollar to drill those
holes. I charged you
$39 to
figure out where to put those holes!" :-)
Here is how we balance grinding wheels
1. we have a pair of level parallel bars
2. we put wheel on shaft and let the heavy part
find the low spot,
and mark it
3. for the wheels there are weights onthe hub we
can move, but on
the flywheel I would drill the hole a tad then
re-mount
4. place back on level at same location and rotate
it 90 degrees
either way
if it is balanced, it stays there, otherwise it
falls back to the
same heavy point
(I used to wonder if it would ever find a new
spot, but it never
did)
repeat until done
this is done on the grinding wheels or the
oscilations cause
ripples in the surface, I think it would work for
flywheels
perfectly.
I will be giving it a try sooner or later. :-)
- Steven Ciciora
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We
finish.
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
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visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
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--- Begin Message ---
"Instead of incorporating this into the charger
controller brain, we are
doing the software and brains off board, So we can
keep selling the
cheaper
more affordable systems, and not stop production while
we spend a
couple of
man months debugging code, and hardware"
Right on Rich and Joe, this is the best approach.
Build a rock solid hardware control and leave the
'fluff stuff' to a plug in brain. The brain can be
analyzed by all of the brains on the list to produce
the best charge profile for a wide variety of
batteries. This approach is kind of like Linux, open
source, benefit the masses, make some money for the
original developers while not being bogged down in
charging details.
Good luck, I think your on the right track!
Rod
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--- Begin Message ---
It's on the Saft website, righ tdown to his cell, I think.
$701 for 180Ah block last month, IIRC
Seth
On Nov 2, 2004, at 5:40 PM, David Chapman wrote:
Paul,
If you could send me (offlist) Mr. Magnarella's contact info I would
greatly appreciate it. Especially if you have a work phone #. Thanks
David Chapman.
PS, sorry for posting this to the list but I am using a new e-mail
client that hides address' and I havn't had the time to figure out how
to decode yet. DC.
Send Lou an email if you want a quote on new batteries and refurbish
costs. I sent mail and had a reply in an hour. A formal quote might
take longer.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had kind of planned on bolting the ps pump on the front of the 9' motor
but Bob who I'm doing the nission conversion for want it to have its own
motor so it will run all the time . Sure I say , then after a little fooling
with it find that it takes more power to turn than I had though. also all
the small motors I have make so much noise . wondering what others have
done .?
Steve Clunn
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--- Begin Message ---
Useful informations here if you don't have tried google yet:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~mjs/subaruk.html
European name was :
Subaru mini Jumbo and it was not popular at all in France.
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Wallace" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 9:58 PM
Subject: Are mechanical and body parts for the '80 Subaru microvans still
available?
> I have been eying the Jet Electravan for sale on the tradin' post. This
> one seems to have DOT mods, most notably monster bumpers. Since a very
> small number of these little Subaru 600 microvans were imported to the
> USA, I would suppopse that replacement mechanical and body parts are in
> very short supply here.
>
> The question is more for the European and Pacific rim members of the
> list. Were this Subaru 600 vans poplular in other parts of the world?
> Are parts still available? For the state side folks, does any one know
> if the parts for other mass imported Subarus are interchangeable with
> the van parts? I wouldn't want to purchase the van, only to find out
> that I can't get brake drums and shoes, etc.
>
> I sent mail to Subaru America, but they referred me to my local Subaru
> dealers for parts information.
>
> Paul Wallace
> '91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 01:48 AM 2/11/04 -0500, David Roden wrote:
On 1 Nov 2004 at 12:58, Paul Wallace wrote:
> Were this Subaru 600 vans poplular in other parts of the world?
Not sure about that specific model, but that ^type^ of vehicle is ubiquitous
all over Asia.
Ah, David, vans of that *type* are not necessarily any more useful to Paul
than any other vehicle. My Daihatsu is a cab/chassis truck of that *type*
but the two vans that I dismantled for parts that were one and two years
younger than the truck have very significant changes. Dashboard equipment
changes, front panel changes, steering columns, brakes. Some things are the
same in the three years of sample that I have - window glass, door opening
shape, brake shoes and wheel cylinders. Major changes in body panels,
motor, gearbox and axles, bumpers, interior, suspension.... you get the
picture.
To fit the brake vacuum boosted master cylinder off a van two years younger
meant major re-work of the steering column (no, the column off the '80
model was no where near a fit), front panel modification (behind the
headlight, so it is hidden), bracket changes for the fluid filler. The
changed instrument cluster (one year newer) meant complete dashboard
change, modified brackets, unable to use the face-level vents (I used the
space for meters, so that's not too bad).
There were a fair number of vans and trucks from Suzuki, Daihatsu and to a
lesser extent Subaru, here in the most southern state of Australia. Because
of the age of these vehicles and the low value of them now (want a van with
a stuffed motor, free?) the vehicle dismantlers don't want them. So many of
them are sitting in corners being used as sheds or dog houses, rusting away.
The 'flip' side to this doom and gloom is that when they are available,
they are usually cheap, free or carton of beer payment. So if Paul is keen
to get that van, if he can keep it relatively rust-free, the rest of the
parts to keep it running should be find-able cheaply.
However, is the transaxle in the electric van the same as factory fitted to
the ICE vans? If not, then he could be in trouble. The Daihatsu I chose has
rear-wheel drive front-engine configuration, so if I can't find a back axle
from a Daihatsu, I can adapt in something else. If I understand correctly
the Subaru was a rear engine, RWD transaxle affair, so this is something
Paul may need to look into before commiting himself to that van (or after,
to come up with a contingency plan).
Just my $0.02 worth.
James Massey
'78 Daihatsu 1300kg truck under conversion.
Launceston, Tasmania, Australia.
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