EV Digest 4156
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: cheap testing of multiple batteries
by "Deuville's Rink" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Dave Cloud's Rules ideas
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) SuperCaps (Was: New EV Dragster)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: C-Cars +: Cheap VW Bug EV's and Contactor controllers!
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: 3 phase PM-long and heading OT
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: BB600 weight, was Re: 914EV on ebay,, ooooo
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) High qualty EV videos
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Wife hates smelly flooded batteries.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Solectria BC1000 Charger Temp Sensor
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Datsun Minitruck Mania!
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) DC motors and Siemens AC Motors
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Why bother saving factory EV's???? EV's for EVeryone or Amanda's EV
Workshop and Potluck.
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Why bother saving factory EV's???? EV's for EVeryone or Amanda's EV
Workshop and Potluck.
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: 914EV on ebay,, ooooo
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Why bother saving factory EV's???? EV's for EVeryone or
Amanda's EV Workshop and Potluck.
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Candidate for conversion.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
17) Re: Why bother saving factory EV's???? EV's for EVeryone or Amanda's EV
Workshop and Potluck.
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Emeter & charge voltage=undercharged batts.
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Emeter & charge voltage=undercharged batts.
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: BB600 weight, was Re: 914EV on ebay,, ooooo
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Electric VW images
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Candidate for conversion.
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Emeter & charge voltage=undercharged batts.
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Emeter & charge voltage=undercharged batts.
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) DC/DC: where to buy Todd?
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Emeter & charge voltage=undercharged batts.
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: cheap testing of multiple batteries
Yes I plan to fuse each line, I also was thinking that if I used heavy
enough wire and a switch at the meter that would re-direct the battery
terminals to a 6 volt charger I would be able to pick up the charge for
those low sagging batteries without overcharging the pack. A lot of manual
work but cost effective
Yes, it will work, but with caution. Make sure you fuse or fuseable wire on
every battery lead going to the selector switch. If a battery connections
open under load, you could have melt down. Also, make sure that the
selector switch or rotary type is a break before it makes the next contact.
You could used a larger rotary switch with a stack of wafers switch contacts
that you wire to every other contact so you have a larger space between the
contacts.
You can also add a rotary switch stepper motor, so you can operated with a
momentary switch. This allows all the battery wires be in one location near
the battery pack with only two wires going to the meter.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Deuville's Rink<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 6:44 PM
Subject: cheap testing of multiple batteries
Am looking for cheap way of checking each individual battery on my string
of 14 six volt batteries while under operating condition (find out which
ones are sagging)
I am planning to get a 14 position switch with two decks, one deck will
connect to all positive terminals while the second deck will connect to all
negative terminals, each deck will connect plus minus of a volt meter,
while in operation of the Zamboni I will be able to select each battery one
at a time while operating to see the voltage drop. Does this seem to be
practical?
Thanks
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I guess I started this thread.
My ISP has been up and down like a yoyo over the last month, so I have
missed a lot of posts, and perhaps some of my replies have not made it though.
First, I am NOT proposing that there be a new classification INSTEAD of
the present classification. What I was throwing out for discussion was a
SEPARATE race that might be fun for some folks. You can always bracket
race. You can still compete in a NEDRA class and voltage division. No one
would require anyone to race in a claiming race. I'm not suggesting that
any of the present system be changed in any way. This is completely my own
idea without official NEDRA involvement.
What I am suggesting is that some folks might be interested in a separate,
inexpensive, and perhaps fun way to compete.
When we pick a number, let's say $10,000, for the claiming rights for the
competition, then that is what you must be willing to sell your car for
when the race is over. (It will always be the same number for all races.)
You sign a bill of sale and hand over the title to the race coordinators
BEFORE the race begins. After the race is over, the cars go up for auction
(at the track) with a reserve price of $10,000. Half of anything over
$10,000 goes into the prize money pool.
Anything that passes the bracket racing safety rules can compete in the
same race. No separate categories or classes. Bikes against dragsters
against doorslammer. No handicapping, (aside from the free market,) at all.
>>>> What would be accomplished? <<<<
If you think about it, the outcome of a series of claiming races will be
starkly different than that of a class race or a bracket race. In a bracket
race, it is all about consistency both of the driver and the machine. In a
class race, it is all about how you can get more performance in spite of
the classification rules (usually by the injection of money.)
A series of claiming races forces you to win with an inexpensive vehicle.
This is the ultimate engineering challenge. It will also motivate the
design of inexpensive high-performance EVs.
If your vehicle has a lot of expensive components, someone will buy it at
the end of the race and use the parts in their regular EV or sell the parts
for a profit. You would not do this more than a couple of times.
If, however, you have a very clever design that wins, yet is easy and
cheap to make, someone will buy it and you will make money on the deal. You
will simply make another for the next race and pocket the profit as prize
money. You will look forward to selling a car at each race.
It will also be a way for someone to compete fairly, yet very cheaply.
Anyone that wants to compete, but does not have the skill to design and/or
build their own car, can simply buy a car at any race. No need to build
your own.
Folks will get better and better at making very cheap, but very
high-performance EVs. I think this is a good thing. Don't you?
>>>>> A few comments about the posts in this thread <<<
An "unlimited" category in a claiming race makes no sense. If there is no
claiming price, it isn't a claiming race, is it?
Classes within a claiming race contradicts the very concept.
I find it amusing that folks that NEVER race their cars are complaining
about the idea of a claiming race, since they never race anyway.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What was "almost" common knowledge was NetGain's 18 month association
with NASA, conducting in-vehicle testing of very large "Supercapacitors"
under a government research program. That testing taught us a heck of a
lot, but kept us away from the race track for two full seasons.
After the successful conclusion of the NASA research program, three of us
decided to pursue the aspects of EVs that are a lot less like work.
How did that go, anyway?
I did a back of the envelope type calculation on the Caps they
were offering and came to the conclusion that Hawker batteries would work
better on the drag strip. Did the experiment prove me wrong?
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
An interesting discussion, so I thought I would share a few observations.
While contactor controllers can work, conditions may put them at a strong
disadvantage. C-Cars were designed in Florida and are very functional on
the flat terrain found there. Put them in hilly terrain and problems
appear. In my case it was stoplights on steep hills in Kansas City. With
the contactor controller I found that step one on the throttle, 24 Volt
with a dropping resistor or roughly 18 Volts, was insufficient to even get
the car moving. Step two, 24 Volts without the resistor would allow it to
creep forward at less than 5 mph. Step three, 48 Volts, would cause the
car to lurch forward, vaporize the leads on the brushes, and then let the
car roll merrily backwards down hill. It doesn't take to many repeats of
this kind of performance to get you kind of down on contactor controllers.
I then upgraded to a Curtis 1209B, a completely inappropriate choice
determined by budget. Not only did it limit max current to 450 Amps, it
had a non-adjustable acceleration taper. Despite this I now had an EV that
was much more useable. Yes, I lost some acceleration, but the reliability
and driveability was greatly improved. It now pulled quietly away from a
stop on any hill. Something like a 650 Amp controller would have been a
huge improvement.
Obviously a better designed contactor controller installed in an EV with a
multi speed transmission probably would have worked just fine, but even
then there would be no protection for the motor from heavy current
surges. Perhaps a contactor controller with more steps would have helped,
but the more steps the more complex things get.
Anyway, the point is, both contactor and electronic controllers have a
place, you just have to match them to the needs and circumstance.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ray-
With gearing:
If drive ratio is 1:N, with 1 turn required on input drive for N turns on
output (alternator), assuming zero loss in the belt or gears:
Drive Torque = Load Torque * N
Drive Speed = Load Speed / N
Since Power = Torque * Speed,
Load Power = Load Torque * Load Speed
= (Drive Torque/N) * (Drive Speed * N )
= Drive Torque * Drive Speed
= Drive Power
Since inertia is proportional to Radius^2,
Reflected inertia at the drive = load inertia * N^2
This shows the torque price paid for increasing the drive ratio.
There is a power price also, but it's not N:1:
If there are no losses in the gears, belt or whatever gives you the ratio,
there is theoretically no power loss changing the speed with gearing.
Of course there is loss with belts and gears---but it isn't directly
proportional to the ratio.
So, if indeed one needs 1.5HP mech power into an alternator, and there's a
1:6 speed ratio you don't need 1.5 * 6 , or 9HP to drive it. Rather,
there's a loss is a function of the type of belt drive, belt tension and the
ratio. Figure it as a % loss...30%?
Say it's a 30% loss, then to get that 1.5HP out, you'd need 1.5/0.7 or
2.14HP, not 9HP.
Hope this helps.
Parenthetically, my buddy Dave jumped at the Leeson DC motor opportunity at
the Surplus Center----I asked him to get the part number so we can confirm
its characteristics...oh well, here comes another test!
Thanks for your offer, testing and insight Ray.
I have greater confidence that today's alternators are improving!
-Myles
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wrong answer. 3.4 pounds and 360v would be 300 batteries. About 1050
pounds. Lawrence Rhodes........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 7:57 AM
Subject: BB600 weight, was Re: 914EV on ebay,, ooooo
Though I don't have first hand knowledge, I've been told that the BB600
nicads are 3.5 pounds each. At 1.2V each, 300V and two strings would
mean 500 batteries, meaning 1750lbs. Probably a lot for a tiny two
seater...(?)
Does anyone have more accurate information on the weight of these cells?
--chris
Peter VanDerWal said:
All that said, I am currently drooling over the AC version of the
VoltsPorsche on ElectroAuto's site. I wonder what a 914 would do with a
100kw AC motor, regen, and two strings of BB600 NiCDs at 300 volts
(80ah). Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......
Could you get two 300V strings of BB600s in a 914?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I every now and then entertain my self by going through all my EV
related 1" by 1" sized BS quality *.mpgs , *movs and *.avis.
I 'm getting quite fed up...
Where I could find thousands (ok even 10 would do now)of high res EVs
smoking their doughnuts etc videos.
Well smoking other parts would do the trick for me too ;)
I used to do videos in quite professional leve about 10 years ago...
Hmm... I think I'll visit camera shop in China at next trip there.
I have few videos of Eliica (from their website), I took some shots in
last Woodburd, few short videos I found from web and with P2P.
I could arrange a server with 1 TB Hd space if folks would like to
contribute some vids.
Last year I showed few videos in one exhebition in here. I took BIG
screen and 10 kW sound system. Videos came form laptop. Pc speakers do
not do justice to Eliicas tech video but when listening the sound track
with high dBs... It turns folks around and they come to see our EV
assosiation booth. 90% of all feed back was positive and some even
wanted to buy evs on the spot... Some how it feld sad to tell them they
can not buy EVs....
Please some one tell me if I'm alone with this video frustration. ....
I'm finishing a motorcycle (used to be tuned 1200cc RR Suzuki) with 2x
6,7" ADC, 1k Zilla, 500A Lion + 3000A Capasitor boost.(Only for 1/4
mile). (FEVT PP). It will be registred for street use and it has some
cameras integrated to its masks. No.. I'm not considering any
GhostRiding. a BIG inspiration has been the video that goes with name
RedBikeAwesomeBurnout.mov .
Hope to have some vids of it shooting down the track during this summer.
....and gas motorcycles and V8 cars eating my dust.....
-Jukka
fevt.com
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--- Begin Message ---
I get that "battery smell" at the end of charge with my flooded pack. Is
there any health problem or safety problem when charging in the garage at
street level. I keep the door closed to the living area and there are vents
on the garage door. I went 15 miles yesterday and the pack was below 50% &
it took 7 hours for the Lester to turn off. The pack is 1400 pounds.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi folks,
Does anyone happen to know what Solectria used for the battery temp sensors
on the BC1000 equipped Forces? I am sure it is probably something common,
but I have no idea how to identify it. The deal is I picked up an extra
120 VAC BC1000 and I was hopping to install it in my Civic EV as a
lightweight smart opportunity charger, to replace the current modified Fair
Radio. While the BC1000 is programmed for gell-cells and I have AGMs, I
doubt the AGMs would mind. I temporarily installed it in my Force and
confirmed it works, but without the temp sensor it won't operate in the
Civic. I would rather not take my Force apart just to ID the
sensor.. Anyone happen to know what it is, or is there anyway to ID it by
the resistance readings? It is a three-wire unit.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Wayland wrote:
>a 13 inch, 3 foot long series wound motor
I can understand a larger diameter motor being able to make torque.
But what does having the motor 3 feet long do? Like how does it make
it better or more powerful?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Currently, are the 8" and 9" DC motors used in forklifts? Is that
their intended and purpose built application? What are the 11" and
13" DC motors used for? What is their present intended non EV use?
What in the world besides EV's are the Siemens AC motors currently
being used for and in?
Why is this EV stuff so "mystical" and "elusive"? There seems to be
so many details that are unknown and not common knowledge.
Like for example, is there some factory somewhere, right now, at this
minute; where people are building and assembling brand new AC motors
and controllers? Who is currently making use of these and what are
they using them for? (non EV use)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The thought of doing a one-day conversion on a VW blows my mind.
A project like this would take someone like me at least 3 months.
Getting the old VW ready for conversion might take a month. It's at
least 30 years old and no doubt needs some repairs. If it's been damaged
or seriously rusted or cannibalized, it could take longer.`I would hope
that VW has a running engine so that it could be driven enough to test
the brakes, steering, transmission, etc.
It's practically a sure thing that everything will not fit and go together
perfectly with no problems. Even minor problems can take a lot of
time to find solutions and carry out them out.
Maybe after you've done this conversion a dozen times, have a VW prepared
and have all the parts and tools staged, then you might do a one-day
demonstration.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
<ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>; "Zappylist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
"ETList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 2:18 AM
Subject: Re: Why bother saving factory EV's???? EV's for EVeryone or
Amanda's EV Workshop and Potluck.
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 20:06:48 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Why bother saving factory EV's????
I love your vision of cheap, home made, art cars tootling around town.
I've got just such a VW in my Dad's driveway in Menlo Park and have long
thought about converting it. (He's dead so he probably wouldn't mind; he
was an electrical engineer. His wife leaves the car sitting there for
sentimental reasons). Don't think I could do it by myself though. Anyone
for a club project? One-day workshop?
Amanda
Amanda if you provide the parts I will personally come down for the one
day workshop. It will be the EV version of Jimmy Carters Habitat for
Humanity or in our case EV's for EVeryone. I'll bring tools and a
crimper. I will help install your kit. Anybody that wants to come I hope
you would invite. There are numerous people in the area that have great
interest in this kit. Might be nice to have a potluck to go with the
workshop. It should only take a few hours to do most of it. Of course
there always little things to do that require special gadgets. However we
should get your bug running in one afternoon. A lot of people could learn
how simple this is to do.
Here is what you will need:
Your Daddy's VW. Which will be know afterward as not your Fathers VW.
The kit http://www.e-volks.com/about.html
6 US 125's or Trojan T105's or simular battery 6v golfcart or what the kit
manufacturer recommends.
A Variac for the charger. During the day I can make a run with you to one
of the surplus stores in San Jose or Santa Clara unless someone will
donate or sell you a Variac. You will also need a $3.50 diode bridge and
some circuit breakers 20 amp 36v should do.
A Volt meter
Some simple tools. Adjustable wrench, 1/2 inch wrench 9/16 wrench or 13mm
& 14mm wrench & Screwdrivers A kit of metric and american wrenches would
be good if you can afford them.. This will include the above wrenches .
Wire tools I'll bring. Along with a welder, drills and misc. tools.
A DC/DC converter unless it is in the kit.
You can also use a Deep cycle 12v battery and charge with a seperate
charger.
Optional. Angle iron for the rear battery box if you don't want the
batteries behind the back seat.
I've emailed the manufacturer for an exact parts list.
Otmar if you want to drop by and check our progress or lend a hand you
would be welcome as well as any other knowedgeable EVer's close by.
Oh yes taking the motor out. Is the motor out? Condition of the car.
Tires, brakes etc. If the motor is in you might be able to sell it on
Craigs List and I bet someone will come and take it out and maybe pay you
to do so.
Amanda. Please email back how many people you have room for and when you
want to do it. I am a Musician so I work some weekends so it'll have to
be planned in advance. Should we call this Amanda's EV Workshop and
Potluck? Lawrence Rhodes.........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
With a proper shop a lot can happen in a few days. My
spitfire conversion has all of two short days ito it,
and I it will be done in two more(when I can find the
time). This is just the conversion part of the
equation, not any restoration. but if you start with a
clean old car, I don't see any reason why a competant
group of people couldn't do one on a weekend, with
proper planning. That's how we were able to pull off
all those builds on the BIG! show.
Gadget
--- Tom Shay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The thought of doing a one-day conversion on a VW
> blows my mind.
> A project like this would take someone like me at
> least 3 months.
>
> Getting the old VW ready for conversion might take a
> month. It's at
> least 30 years old and no doubt needs some repairs.
> If it's been damaged
> or seriously rusted or cannibalized, it could take
> longer.`I would hope
> that VW has a running engine so that it could be
> driven enough to test
> the brakes, steering, transmission, etc.
>
> It's practically a sure thing that everything will
> not fit and go together
> perfectly with no problems. Even minor problems can
> take a lot of
> time to find solutions and carry out them out.
>
> Maybe after you've done this conversion a dozen
> times, have a VW prepared
> and have all the parts and tools staged, then you
> might do a one-day
> demonstration.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Electric Vehicle
> Discussion List"
> <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>; "Zappylist"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
> "ETList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 2:18 AM
> Subject: Re: Why bother saving factory EV's???? EV's
> for EVeryone or
> Amanda's EV Workshop and Potluck.
>
>
> >> Message: 1
> >> Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 20:06:48 -0500
> >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Subject: Re: Why bother saving factory EV's????
> >>
> >> I love your vision of cheap, home made, art cars
> tootling around town.
> >> I've got just such a VW in my Dad's driveway in
> Menlo Park and have long
> >> thought about converting it. (He's dead so he
> probably wouldn't mind; he
> >> was an electrical engineer. His wife leaves the
> car sitting there for
> >> sentimental reasons). Don't think I could do it
> by myself though. Anyone
> >> for a club project? One-day workshop?
> >> Amanda
> >
> >
> > Amanda if you provide the parts I will personally
> come down for the one
> > day workshop. It will be the EV version of Jimmy
> Carters Habitat for
> > Humanity or in our case EV's for EVeryone. I'll
> bring tools and a
> > crimper. I will help install your kit. Anybody
> that wants to come I hope
> > you would invite. There are numerous people in the
> area that have great
> > interest in this kit. Might be nice to have a
> potluck to go with the
> > workshop. It should only take a few hours to do
> most of it. Of course
> > there always little things to do that require
> special gadgets. However we
> > should get your bug running in one afternoon. A
> lot of people could learn
> > how simple this is to do.
> >
> > Here is what you will need:
> > Your Daddy's VW. Which will be know afterward as
> not your Fathers VW.
> > The kit http://www.e-volks.com/about.html
> > 6 US 125's or Trojan T105's or simular battery 6v
> golfcart or what the kit
> > manufacturer recommends.
> > A Variac for the charger. During the day I can
> make a run with you to one
> > of the surplus stores in San Jose or Santa Clara
> unless someone will
> > donate or sell you a Variac. You will also need a
> $3.50 diode bridge and
> > some circuit breakers 20 amp 36v should do.
> > A Volt meter
> > Some simple tools. Adjustable wrench, 1/2 inch
> wrench 9/16 wrench or 13mm
> > & 14mm wrench & Screwdrivers A kit of metric and
> american wrenches would
> > be good if you can afford them.. This will include
> the above wrenches .
> > Wire tools I'll bring. Along with a welder,
> drills and misc. tools.
> > A DC/DC converter unless it is in the kit.
> > You can also use a Deep cycle 12v battery and
> charge with a seperate
> > charger.
> > Optional. Angle iron for the rear battery box if
> you don't want the
> > batteries behind the back seat.
> > I've emailed the manufacturer for an exact parts
> list.
> >
> > Otmar if you want to drop by and check our
> progress or lend a hand you
> > would be welcome as well as any other knowedgeable
> EVer's close by.
> >
> > Oh yes taking the motor out. Is the motor out?
> Condition of the car.
> > Tires, brakes etc. If the motor is in you might
> be able to sell it on
> > Craigs List and I bet someone will come and take
> it out and maybe pay you
> > to do so.
> >
> > Amanda. Please email back how many people you
> have room for and when you
> > want to do it. I am a Musician so I work some
> weekends so it'll have to
> > be planned in advance. Should we call this
> Amanda's EV Workshop and
> > Potluck? Lawrence Rhodes.........
> >
> >
> >
>
>
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:04 PM 3/4/05 -0500, you wrote:
Hi Chris, Shari, Otmar, and all,
If one has the good fortune to be starting off with a clean, corrosion-free
914, do you have any suggestions for corrosion prevention strategies to keep
it that way for many years to come?
Clearly one would be to keep the car garaged, while another would be to use
fully enclosed and sealed battery boxes such as those of Shari's
VoltsPorsche kit.
Any other corrosion-proofing/prevention measures you can think of or advise
for a clean 914 in excellent condition (including paint, i.e. which doesn't
need repainting)?
(All of those linked 914 rustbucket pics are pretty scary. Hope to avoid a
similar fate, which unfortunately seems to be all too common for 914s!)
Depending on where you're located, if you're in a place with real winters
where rust is common, there are companies that specialize in
rust-proofing. They go so far as to drill holes into hollow cavities and
spray rust preventative through the hole, then plug it up. That's in
addition to an exterior undercoat.
If you cut any sheet metal, treat it or paint it with a rust
preventative. The Eastwood catalog has several products for rust
prevention, including an undercoating system. Their web site is
http://www.eastwoodco.com
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 12:04 PM -0800 3-5-05, Tom Shay wrote:
The thought of doing a one-day conversion on a VW blows my mind.
A project like this would take someone like me at least 3 months.
Getting the old VW ready for conversion might take a month.
Hi Tom,
The key of course is doing the preparation first. But a weekend
conversion with a good kit is certainly possible. It only takes about
20 minutes to pull the engine out of a bug...
My 914 was first converted in one day, but many of the parts were
just thrown in temporarily with duct tape plywood and drywall screws.
Still, by the end of the day I was giving rides in it and it ran
quite well. You can see pictures with time stamps from that day if
you go to my site here:
http://www.evcl.com/914 and click on the The One Day Conversion, a
Pictorial. Link.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All this talk about converting a Beetle quickly had me looking thru e-bay.
If anyone is serious about doing it soon, take a look at;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4531770563&category=6019
I'ts in Huston, so rust should not be too bad. This is two Superbetles.
Neither one runs, but both look ok. Should be enuff parts for at least one and
probably two conversions if you spend the time/money to fix them both.
James
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--- Begin Message ---
Otmar, I did read and enjoy your story and pictures of your one-day
Porsche conversion. It was an impressive demonstration. It could
not have been done without your extensive experience with Volkswagens
and Porsches and EV conversions. And you had good help. It was possible
only because several days were spent in preparation for the big day
and many days after to complete myriad details.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: Why bother saving factory EV's???? EV's for EVeryone or
Amanda's EV Workshop and Potluck.
The key of course is doing the preparation first. But a weekend conversion
with a good kit is certainly possible. It only takes about 20 minutes to
pull the engine out of a bug...
My 914 was first converted in one day, but many of the parts were just
thrown in temporarily with duct tape plywood and drywall screws. Still, by
the end of the day I was giving rides in it and it ran quite well. You can
see pictures with time stamps from that day if you go to my site here:
http://www.evcl.com/914 and click on the The One Day Conversion, a
Pictorial. Link.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, as you might've followed, my last posts have
been on a) why my meter won't flash "full"; why my
batteries always (after 8 mos., 900 miles) have a low
(1.500 or so) state of charge on the hygrometer, etc.
Turns out that I set my charger voltage based on what
I saw through the E-meter. My last analog voltmeter
had bitten the dust. Once I got a new digital
multimeter, I was reading 20V lower than what it
should be set at.
Bottom line: don't read the E-meter voltage and think
that it's accurate during charge. Something about
it's algorithm as it takes readings only sees a
certain portion of it, and a PFC-20 doesn't give off
pure DC (as I'm sure most chargers don't)!
Sign me,
"Resetting the charger cutback voltage, hoping I
haven't damaged a new set o' batts."
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Really? That's odd. The E-meter in my Prizm matches the voltage in the
Dolphin sensor and the Magnecharger to a T. Only diff is a slight shift
in current (because the Dolphin pulls [EMAIL PROTECTED] for it's computer and
the MC doesn't see that)
Chris
Bob Bath wrote:
Well, as you might've followed, my last posts have
been on a) why my meter won't flash "full"; why my
batteries always (after 8 mos., 900 miles) have a low
(1.500 or so) state of charge on the hygrometer, etc.
Turns out that I set my charger voltage based on what
I saw through the E-meter. My last analog voltmeter
had bitten the dust. Once I got a new digital
multimeter, I was reading 20V lower than what it
should be set at.
Bottom line: don't read the E-meter voltage and think
that it's accurate during charge. Something about
it's algorithm as it takes readings only sees a
certain portion of it, and a PFC-20 doesn't give off
pure DC (as I'm sure most chargers don't)!
Sign me,
"Resetting the charger cutback voltage, hoping I
haven't damaged a new set o' batts."
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sort of. BB600's apparently have 1.25 volts nominal, so:
300 volts=240 batteries=816lbs
480 batteries=1,630 lbs.
Bit heavy compared to a 914 with 20 T105's (65lbs*20=1,300lbs) so I'd
have to think about that for awhile.
Chris
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
Wrong answer. 3.4 pounds and 360v would be 300 batteries. About 1050
pounds. Lawrence Rhodes........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
With all this talk lately of converting older VW's to electric; here's
a couple images for reference, and perspective.
Motor:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/band1999/bm16.jpg
Hood/trunk:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/band1999/bm18.jpg
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 02:45 PM 3/5/2005, you wrote:
All this talk about converting a Beetle quickly had me looking thru e-bay.
If anyone is serious about doing it soon, take a look at;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4531770563&category=6019
I'ts in Huston, so rust should not be too bad.
It says rear floorboards need replacing. Bad news. This means the
rest of the pan is rusted too.
Never convert a crappy car. Spend a few more bucks and get a car
that you would be proud to drive, just as it is. You are going to spend
thousands of dollars on conversion components and 100's of hours of your
time doing the conversion.
Spend a $1,000 or so and get a nice looking car with a blown
motor. Otherwise, you will spend $3,000 and months of your time making the
"bargain" car look like the car you could have had for $1,000.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Turns out that I set my charger voltage based on what
I saw through the E-meter. My last analog voltmeter
had bitten the dust. Once I got a new digital
multimeter, I was reading 20V lower than what it
should be set at.
What are you using for a voltage divider?
Is the Emeter 12 volt power isolated from the pack and the chassis?
Are you running completely separate wires for the power and for
the voltage sensing negative?
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
absolutely. E-meter is powered by the DCP separate
+/- supply.
--- "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> >Turns out that I set my charger voltage based on
> what
> >I saw through the E-meter. My last analog
> voltmeter
> >had bitten the dust. Once I got a new digital
> >multimeter, I was reading 20V lower than what it
> >should be set at.
>
> What are you using for a voltage divider?
>
> Is the Emeter 12 volt power isolated from
> the pack and the chassis?
>
> Are you running completely separate wires
> for the power and for
> the voltage sensing negative?
>
>
>
> _ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
> \'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> =(___)=
> U
> Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello all,
I'm looking for a "turn-key" DC/DC converter; input of 120-144V nominal (final
system voltage not yet determined); circa 300 Watts; to be used in parallel
with a small SLI accessory battery.
When I started planning this conversion I remember thinking that the Todd would
be a nice fit, but they don't seem to be available anywhere (no longer being
built?). There is a Sevcon that looks like a suitable alternative, but I'm
baulking at the ~$600US sticker price.
Any idea where one can still pickup a Todd? Or other similarly priced
alternatives that fit the above specs?
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well then, if you ask me, the issue is that PFC-20s
and Magnechargers have differerent charge algorithms;
that is, they're pulsing current to the batts.
differently.
--- Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Really? That's odd. The E-meter in my Prizm matches
> the voltage in the
> Dolphin sensor and the Magnecharger to a T. Only
> diff is a slight shift
> in current (because the Dolphin pulls [EMAIL PROTECTED] for
> it's computer and
> the MC doesn't see that)
>
> Chris
>
>
> Bob Bath wrote:
>
> > Well, as you might've followed, my last posts have
> > been on a) why my meter won't flash "full"; why my
> > batteries always (after 8 mos., 900 miles) have a
> low
> > (1.500 or so) state of charge on the hygrometer,
> etc.
> >
> > Turns out that I set my charger voltage based on
> what
> > I saw through the E-meter. My last analog
> voltmeter
> > had bitten the dust. Once I got a new digital
> > multimeter, I was reading 20V lower than what it
> > should be set at.
> >
> > Bottom line: don't read the E-meter voltage and
> think
> > that it's accurate during charge. Something about
> > it's algorithm as it takes readings only sees a
> > certain portion of it, and a PFC-20 doesn't give
> off
> > pure DC (as I'm sure most chargers don't)!
> > Sign me,
> > "Resetting the charger cutback voltage, hoping I
> > haven't damaged a new set o' batts."
> >
> > '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
> > ____
> > __/__|__\ __
> > =D-------/ - - \
> > 'O'-----'O'-'
> > Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe
> came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any
> gas for your kids?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
> > Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web
> > http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
> >
> >
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
--- End Message ---
