EV Digest 4209
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Evercel-related battery questions
by Derrick J Brashear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Renualt LeCar
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: X19?
by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Letter to oregonian RE: gas prices & EVs
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Stirling Engine
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Renualt LeCar
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Renualt LeCar
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Stirling Engine
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Russco Charger
by Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: New EV Dragster
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Selectria Sunrise as replacement for EV-1 and Re: Rabbit replacement
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Transistor Votage Question
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Series motor runaway
by "Deuville's Rink" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: federal $$ spent on EV1?
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Renualt LeCar
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Getting more EV's on the road
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Electric Diahatsu Charade
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) FYI: 2005 Optima Battery Sponsorship Form
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Power brakes (long)
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Measuring power required for air & tire resistance
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Optima(Interstate) & Exide - Which one likes EV's?
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Cupertino
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: EV-1 Blurb in AZ Republic
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: EV-1 Blurb in AZ Republic
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) GE Motor specs?
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: EV-1 Blurb in AZ Republic
by Derrick J Brashear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: Stirling Engine
by "prime" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: Getting more EV's on the road
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Stirling Engine
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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1) Anyone using Rudman regulators with Evercel M100 (the 7 cell variant)
batteries? Any special issues?
2) the Evercels have screw terminals, and the welding cable from the front
to the rear of my car uses post clamps. Rather than messing around
otherwise, is it possible to get screw-in battery posts for the Evercels?
I think I'm searching for the wrong thing.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 9:01 PM +0100 3-20-05, Philippe Borges wrote:
exactly what i mean.
maybe you make sort of strong spring between the pads helping them to stay
away from rotor when there is no brake pressure ?
I've often thought of this, but as I see it the spring would have to
be very short travel and would have to somehow slide on its mount as
the pads wear. This is because if you push the piston in too far you
will have to pump your brakes to get them to work. So you don't want
a spring that can push the pads very far.
Ever replace the pads on a car (which involves retracting the
pistons) and then try driving without pumping the brakes first? It's
not a good feeling to have the pedal go to the floor!
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
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The Fiat X1-9 was rather overbuilt (especially for a Fiat) to maintain
body
rigidity in spite of its being an open roadster.
The X1/9 was built to comply with proposed US safety regs. for open vehicles
that would have required passing a 50mph frontal inpact, 30mph side and
surviving the forces involved in a simulated 80mph roll-over. The US car
industry managed to get the legislation dropped after they claimed it simply
wasn't possible to build such a vehicle. It had the highest torsional
stiffness of any open top production car in the world when introduced.
The problem is that all the X1-9s are quite old now, and long out of the
US
market. Spares availability is apt to be a significant concern.
The X1/9 is a parts bin special, being directly derived from the Fiat 128
and in fact bearing a 128 series number. When the Strada (Ritmo) came along
(designated the138) the X1/9 was upgraded so parts can be scavanged from
many models if you know compatability. Fiat rarely change parts that work
and for instance the brake disk used all round on the X1/9 was introduced on
the front of the 128 in 1966 and is still used on Fiats to this day. Useful
upgrades in the UK are the vented disk setup and heavy duty gear cluster
from the 130bhp Uno Turbo and rear calipers from the Polish built FSO pickup
trucks (had one, great piece of kit).
I've owned and driven several IcsUnoNoves (Including a twincam conversion)
and also driven several MR2s. The Toyota build quality shines through, but
the character of the car is very different. Nucio Bertone was designing a
pure drivers car, whilst Toyota were building a sports car for the person
who didn't reall want one. The handling of the MR2 is 'safe' and nowhere
near as sharp as the X1/9. It holds the road better due to substantially
more rubber in the road and the 120bhp engine does rather put the 85bhp (UK
spec) 'cooking' 1500 of the Fiat to shame, but I know which I prefer. Where
the MR2 really falls down though is packaging. Despite being longer, wider,
and heavier, it's barely got any more cabin space and has about half the
luguage capacity. Toyota also chickened out of doing a proper Targa top,
opting instead for a T top. This may have been for torsional stiffnes
reasons, but more likely was down to being unable to stow a one piece roof
like the X1/9.
Paul Compton
www.sciroccoev.co.uk
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--- Begin Message ---
Bob Bath wrote:
> Guys, I had a field day with an article today. Always
> keep it short; no diversions to Iraq, etc. Enjoy, and
> cross fingers it gets printed.
> peace,
A GREAT letter, Bob! Let's all hope it gets printed!
--
"The two most common elements in the universe
are hydrogen and stupidity." -- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Another idea occurred to me. A friend builds technological display
devices for museums. One he showed me recently was a thermoacoustic
whistle. No moving parts; just a hot end that is heated with a parabolic
reflector by sunlight, and a finned cold end cooled by the air. Aim it
at the sun, and it produces a loud, piercing whistle. An array of them
(one for each musical note) with blades of a windmill casting shadows
over them plays a tune.
There are also acoustic generators, that turn sound vibrations into
electricity. Basically, high-powered versions of a microphone. I wonder
if you could use a thermoacoustic whistle to generate electricity? You'd
have a heat-to-electricity generator with no moving parts. :-)
I have been directly involved in the development of
thermo-acoustic refrigeration and compressors. While simple and elegant,
they are not terribly efficient. (The refrigerators tend to be more
efficient than the compressors, by the way.)
The "no moving parts" aspect is very tempting for some
applications. For ordinary use where you can do ordinary routine
maintenance, the large reduction in efficiency is not worth the reduction
in routine maintenance.
Conversely, Stirling engines can have very high efficiency and low
routine maintenance.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
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--- Begin Message ---
At 01:20 PM 3/20/2005, you wrote:
At 9:01 PM +0100 3-20-05, Philippe Borges wrote:
exactly what i mean.
maybe you make sort of strong spring between the pads helping them to stay
away from rotor when there is no brake pressure ?
That is why most disk brake calipers have square "o-ring" type
seals. The seal rocks slightly in the groove when you apply the brakes.
When the pressure is removed, the square o-ring settles back into the
groove and tends to draw the piston back slightly.
If you wanted to draw the piston back more, I suppose you could
find a thicker square o-ring and machine the groove to accommodate it.
I've often thought of this, but as I see it the spring would have to be
very short travel and would have to somehow slide on its mount as the pads
wear. This is because if you push the piston in too far you will have to
pump your brakes to get them to work. So you don't want a spring that can
push the pads very far.
Ever replace the pads on a car (which involves retracting the pistons) and
then try driving without pumping the brakes first? It's not a good feeling
to have the pedal go to the floor!
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Philippe Borges wrote:
>
> exactly what i mean.
> maybe you make sort of strong spring between the pads helping them to stay
> away from rotor when there is no brake pressure ?
Yes; this is the sort of thing that would need to be added.
A related problem is that I think modern car designers want there to be
very little pedal movement before the brakes actually engage. On old
drum brake cars with manual brakes, the brake pedal could move a modest
distance 1/2" or so" before the brakes actually operated. This movement
is what moved the brake shoes the 1/8" or so needed to touch the drums.
Nowdays, they seem to want negligible free-pedal movement. This means
negligible slack between pads and rotor. So, just adding a return spring
won't help all that much, because the clearance is so small that tiny
amounts of bearing runout or out-of-roundness in the the rotors will
still make the pads touch.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I have been directly involved in the development of
> thermo-acoustic refrigeration and compressors. While simple and
> elegant, they are not terribly efficient.
Agreed. However, efficiency doesn't always matter if your energy source
is "free" (i.e. sunlight).
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I have a Russco Charger for my flooded lead acid battery pack (96
volts). I have it set for a 2.5 hour shutoff, and generally allow it to
run for the entire time, but ecently I've noticed that the batteries
seem to be boiling vigorously. Is 2.5 hours to long or do lead acids
like to be charged this way? Should I adjust it to a half hour shutoff?
Mike
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--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I want to see what that 13" motor will do!
Run that, run your new one, run something! It's like time is standing
still.
http://www.nedra.com/hedlund_100mph_club.html
Speaking about the warp 13" motor , I have been talking to somebody ( Don)
here in Florida about building a fast s-10 and the first though of mine was
2 8" but after some talking to net gain he is going with the 13 " which he
is going to get with a spline shaft to make a easy hook up to a drive shaft
and then straight to the rear , . I'm not sure of the details but this motor
will be able to be switched in series / parallel , like 2 motor set up . So
hopefully some day soon a person will be able to buy the motor , drive shaft
and have a simple bolt up set up that they know will work. as for time
standing still , this is going to be a slow project also , the 2 k 348 v
zilla won't be ordered for a while , till the money builds up , so if your
in a hurry to see what a 13" will do , I can't say when , but the motor is
paid for , that's the first step.
I did get to work on Paul's 912 two 8" motor Porsche the other day , This
is a low budget project , alone the lines of me paying for over 1/2 the
parts so far. I think we are both waiting to see who will pay for the next
part . 22 orbital a 2k zilla but no contactors for series parallel switching
( just one for on and off ) , so I hooked the 2 motors in series . Probable
the worst set up as this gives lots of torque but not rpm , . In 3ed gear it
would easily slip the clutch with just a light tap on the go pebble. in 1st
and 2st the car feels like it want to leap off the ground but with just 132
v across each motor they run out of speed quick , 3d would be the gear if
the clutch held. The small ( same size lov joy as the one in my old work
truck which lasted 50 k miles ) lov joy 100 doesn't look to good either ,
with the rubber insert already showing signs of being eaten. I called Paul
and he called around about clutches/ presser plates , nothing cheep that
would do the job , Paul suggested just sandwiching the clutch to the fly
wheel , with something like a big washer with holes drilled through all and
maybe tapping the holes in the fly wheel , holding the clutch to flywheel
all the time. . I'm thinking in the end , the tranny input shaft will be
the weak link now, I believe its a 901 tranny . I'm wondering if he wouldn't
be better with a independent rear end form something like a corvette . ?
Well there I go , talking about two different projects in the same post .
Steve Clunn .
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--- Begin Message ---
John Westlund wrote:
>> ... looked horrible ... More power ... no-regen higher power DC
>> setup ... transmission ... lead acid ... Keep the parts cost low.
This is the classic problem with trying to get a bunch of individualists
like EVers to all work toward a common goal. Everyone has a different
idea of what's good.
We need a mechanism to encourage everyone to work together.
David Roden (Akron OH USA) wrote:
> Solectria designed the Sunrise to be a showcase for (then) advanced
> EV technology... I think that the Sunrise has significantly more
> potential to put Americans in an EV than the EV1 ever had.
This is how I feel, too. My testosterone might lust for a tZero, but my
wife would prefer the Sunrise. And so would our friends and family.
> As for price - consider the fact that we already have people who
> are willing to pay $24K for a ^used^ EV1.
And, the Sunrise is somewhat like a 4-seat version of the EV1. I think
it would appeal to those who had an EV1 a lot more than a typical
hobbyist EV (like a pickup truck with a fork lift motor and golf cart
batteries).
Thinking...
What if we form a corporation. Each investor buys X shares of stock to
raise $50,000. Let's say there are 50 investors of $1000 each.
The corporation buys the Solectria Sunrise currently being offered for
sale. The car is then carefully reverse-engineered, thoroughly
documented, and the plans provided to the investors.
Further, the corporation's goal is to produce Sunrises. The investors
are the first customers. With a known group of investors, we know how
many motors, controllers, batteries, bodies, windshields, doorhandles,
etc. are needed. We can get quotes on 50 sets of parts, which is enough
that most manufacturers will say "yes" to a small run. The price will be
high, but not nearly as high as trying to get just one.
These parts will then be sold at cost to the investors. If other people
want to join late, they may have to pay a higher price. Or, maybe get in
at the same price because it adds to the order quantity and brings down
the price some more. It creates a "market" in parts and plans, so
investors have a way to get in and get out of the project.
Now there is a mechanism to encourage everyone to build the same car. If
someone wants to change it, that's fine; but they are still going to be
part of the group purchases. But, they can of course sell the unused
parts if they like.
Initially, the investors just get plans. Next, the corporation serves as
a buyer's club for common off-the-shelf parts like bolts, tires, etc.
Next, it tools up the specialized parts, to provide PC boards, machined
parts, fiberglass bodies, etc. Eventually, it can work up to offer
completed assemblies, car kits, or perhaps even finished cars.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
> The BMS starts bypassing between 200mA and 250mA when the cell gets
> to 4.2V. When the cell gets to 4.25V, the BMS turns on an opto.
> I want to connect one side of the opto to cell positive, and also
> connect Q1's collector to cell positive. R4 is connected to cell
> positive and R3 is connected between the other side of the opto
> and Q1's base. In the diagram below, everything to the left of the
> dots is the BMS, to the right of the dots is my addition
> to the circuit.
>
> +Cell_____________________.__________
> | . |
> BMS <-+ | . |
> Logic | | . |
> _|_ |/--<<--+ . > R4
> _\_/_ --> | . >
> | |\--<<--+ . >
> | .....|.... |
> BMS <-+ . | |
> Logic . > R3 |
> . > |
> . > |/ collector
> . |___________| Q1: NPN transistor
> . base|
> . |\ emitter
> . |
> . |
> . |
> . |
> . |
> -Cell____________.__________________|
Ok; that makes sense and it could work. You should add a resistor from
base to emitter to insure that Q1 turns completely off. If the
optocoupler snaps fully "on" or "off", power dissipation in Q1 will
always be low. If it gradually turns on more and more as cell voltage
rises, then you'll have to be a lot more careful about transistor power
dissipation.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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----- Original Message -----
From: "canev" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: Series motor runaway
> Hi Ellery.
> We use a two stage rev limit on all our vehicles (with series drive).
> At 4500 RPM the limiter drops a 5K resistor across the pot box.
> At 5500 RPM the limiter drops out the main contactor.
> These RPM points can be adjusted.
> Of coarse you would have to be running a controller and not just a
> contactor.
> We sometimes have Curtis factory reconditioned controllers at a good
> price but just sold the 1209 48-72 unit that was on the shelf.
> What does the machine draw while working?
> We had a situation with one of our aircraft refueling tanker trucks
> where the pump system actually drew more current in bypass then while
> pumping fuel. A simple pressure switch fixed that. :)
>
Getting some ideas which is great, I think Randy that I will most likely
order your Amp Meter and shunt as I have no reliable current meter available
to me, by the amp meter on my charger which I can use to run the motor it
shows 125 amps to 150 amps but I am not sure of how accurate that is. It is
hard to determin things when I do not have the answers to the varaibles, I
would like to know the hp needed to turn the gearbox like Peter and Lawrence
say I could get a better idea once I know that. I do have the two Curtis
controllers on my tractor conversion which I could use however I like the
simple contactor as it has less that can go wrong,
Also do you think I should try and sell the tractor or be better off
salvaging the controllers and farming out the base tractor for parts?
Ellery
Ellery
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--- Begin Message ---
Sam Uzi wrote:
> does someone have the numbers regarding the amount of federal money that
> GM used to develop the EV1? I'm trying to gather all the facts I can on
> the subject... from what I understand GM spent a total of about $1billion
> developing the EV1
"$13,000 of taxpayer money went into each EV1"
http://www.alexandrapaul.com/corner/dayinlife_march2005.htm
Bonus pics of the vehicle blocking the semi:
http://www.alexandrapaul.com/articles_gm.htm
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--- Begin Message ---
yes its seems a near impossible task, maybe it's time to convert hydraulic
brakes to E-brakes, can you design stepper motor controllers too ?
:^)
More seriously:
you need a spring attach to the "no moving" pad, that is hard enough to stop
drag and soft enough to let the pressure make is job quickly but in all case
(perfect stop drag working system) pedal will be softer, no more drag is a
"cause and consequence"
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: Renualt LeCar
> At 9:01 PM +0100 3-20-05, Philippe Borges wrote:
> >exactly what i mean.
> >maybe you make sort of strong spring between the pads helping them to
stay
> >away from rotor when there is no brake pressure ?
>
> I've often thought of this, but as I see it the spring would have to
> be very short travel and would have to somehow slide on its mount as
> the pads wear. This is because if you push the piston in too far you
> will have to pump your brakes to get them to work. So you don't want
> a spring that can push the pads very far.
>
> Ever replace the pads on a car (which involves retracting the
> pistons) and then try driving without pumping the brakes first? It's
> not a good feeling to have the pedal go to the floor!
>
> --
> -Otmar-
>
> http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
> http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Typically, when someone has a car such as a Mustang or a Camaro and
they dump thousands of dollars into it for performance mods, if they
decide to sell the vehicle, they usually cannot sell it for the amount
they have invested in it.
Is this true with EV conversions?
You all know the prices of the needed EV components and how they add
up. Say for example, a Dodge Neon or a Chevy Cavalier was
converted(or some other car). Could it be sold for what was tied up
in it?
How about in the case of one of these Cobra kit cars? Ten grand right
off the bat for the kit. When the conversion is said and done, would
this thing be a money pit or would it be able to be sold for what it
was worth?
http://www.factoryfive.com/
I would like to do some high quality conversions and get them on the
road. I have plenty of time, a garage, tools, and I'm confident that
I could do it. Is it financially prudent though?
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--- Begin Message ---
> Mainly for Australian list members I advise that the EV is now road
> legal
Congratulations!
> and being used for all short trips about 30ks return.
You might remember I'm a Sydney-sider converting a Charade too, and so am
pretty interested in all the details.
Unhappily, I take it that is 30km total, not 30km down and 30km back. I was
still keeping an outside hope for a useful 70km range with ours
:-( Over what sort of speeds, and to what depth of discharge?
I note you listed 144V/100Amp.hrs, but wondering which batteries exactly (I'm
still agonising over battery choice, and as you probably know the space under
the bonnet is height limited)
Did you get the car weighed by any chance? Wondering if you kept things under
GVM, or whether you managed to get the limits upgraded?
What did you do for (front window) demisting? Having re-read the Australian
Design Rules recently, it occured to me I had completely forgotten this
requirement.
Any chance of using your real-life data to calibrate/validate that spreadsheet
I sent a few weeks back?
Ok, I think that's enough questions for now :-)
> On presentation of the EV for inspection prior to paying my money &
> getting the plates I had to open the engine compartment. I heard F. me
> dead what is this! Similar words were heard when the EV was presented
> for its Roadworthy Certificate, a procedure required to ensure brakes
> etc are OK.
Hehe. Looking forward to this. Best I've had so far was my first
generator-on-wheels "argument" with a bystander watching me haul my electric
motor/tranny combo into my mechanic's workshop.
> Any one coming to Melbourne (Australia) is welcome to visit
> and drive if planning a conversion & looking for a completed
> vehicle for encouagement.
If you've got a digital camera, the time and the inclination, a few pics of the
arrangement of bits under the hood and the battery layout/frames/box etc would
be invaluable to me at this point.
> I will wait in the wings for a suitable NiMH battery.
> Perhaps a bulk purchase by list members could get a good price.
Count me in on this. Any interest from other Aussies?
> My charging power source is 3kW of PV with plans to add 1.6kW more in
> the future.
Hey! You're living my "dream" :-)
Getting some much needed motivation from this,
Claudio
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--- Begin Message ---
Might be worth looking into...
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/content/optima_content/americas/english/config/library/2005_sponsorship_agreement.LibraryPar.Single.File.tmp/2005+Sponsorship+Agreement.pdf
If direct link doesn't work, it's at the bottom of this page:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/events/sponsorship_requests.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's what I ended up doing on my Datsun Kingcab, and it helped a lot!
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry dycus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2005 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: Power brakes (long)
> Hi Jeff and All,
> Don't most PB systems have a heavy duty
> spring in them against to brake pedal, probably to
> return the brakes reliably off until need, and
> removing it greatly decreases the leg power needed,
> enough in many cases where you no longer need a vac
> booster?
> Didn't people remove this spring and the
> Vac booster and have a decent brake system?
> Thanks,
> jerry dycus
>
>
> --- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > A-ha , something I can comment on
> >
> > The vacuum brake booster is an interstingly simple
> > device. As you sit
> > on that hill without moving your foot it's assitance
> > goes down, but as
> > sonn as you command more by pressing on it it gives
> > you more assistance.
> >
> > It consists of 2 chambers seperated by a diaphram,
> > engine vacuum goes
> > to both sides of this diaphram so there is no net
> > assistance.
> > When you step on the brake the rod moves forward
> > and a washer covers
> > some holes (there is more than one design) blocking
> > the vacuum to the
> > back side while a second washer opens the back side
> > to atmosphere.
> > Atmospheric pressure (14psi) pushes on the diaphram
> > and gives your foot
> > some help. It can't get ahead of you because when it
> > catches up to the
> > pedal, the air valve closes and the vacuum valve
> > opens.
> >
> > I often wondered if I could flip one around and use
> > 28psi of air
> > pressure and an aircompressor and tank on board.
> > Then I would have the
> > same amount of force and air for my tires.
> > looks like I would need 50psi and a regulator for
> > the booster. The 4x4
> > magazines have air compressors for mounting on fan
> > belts and I just used
> > an AC compressor (old crankcase style,york) and a
> > tank, the pressure
> > switch went to the clutch. That york could probably
> > make vacuum quick
> > enough for your application, People use them to
> > pump done AC and for
> > vacuum bagging.
> >
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Mark,
> Claudio, which bit of road did you use?
> (May be useful for other Sydneysiders...)
we did a few runs on the flatter bits of Old Windsor Rd, just round the corner
from our joints. For instance, the intersection of Meurants Lane down to
Sunnyholt Road is ok in enough places (slight downhill run) if you avoid the
larger gradients. We also tried a few points along the M4; near Prospect I
think.
No doubt there are loads of good places round Sydney. Key is to make up and
down passes; comparing the two sets will give you an idea how "flat" the road
really is (strong local winds aside).
We also did the exact opposite, and found nice steep sections to work out power
requirements on higher gradients; the run up the first bit of Norwest
Boulevarde from Glenwood, the slope up Old Windsor Rd (between the M2 and the
Kings Langley/Baulkham Hills turn-offs), James Ruse Drive (between Kissing
Point Rd and Pennant Hills Rd) all come to mind. Again, late at night at
opportune moments with no traffic, accelerate to posted limit and coast up the
slope with the clutch in, timing the period to slow down to, say, 30km/hr. With
that you can then get rough estimates for the desired info (road slope;
required climb power, ...). You could use a GPS, but it isn't as much fun as an
empirical experiment :-)
Cheers,
Claudio
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--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone dealt with either of these companies? Does one or both of
them seem to have, or actually have an interest in EV's? I'm
surprised they aren't more active behind the scenes in regards to EV's
since they would presumably become a major supplier and the
replacement for the big oil companies of today.
I noticed on the bottom of this page:
http://www.ibsa.com/estore/custom_battery.asp
"Sorry, we cannot provide: New custom lithium ion applications"
They talk about the price of lead going up and the supply being low:
http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content/about_us/current/december_2004.pdf
Why aren't they supportive of Lithium Ion or some other non lead based
battery? Is it because they are fully invested in lead? Why are
there apparently only 2 companies making LiIon batteries (ThunderSky /
Kokam)?
Will we ever have LiIon batteries that don't require a BMS?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was cruising down by DeAnza BLVD in front of DeAnza college, and saw a
beautiful blue Civic with "AC Power" on the rear, and full rear fender skirts.
I tried to get the driver to look over at me, but he was very dedicated to
watching traffic. Was that someone on this list, or should I know that already?
Dave
Some call it retirement, some call it a second career... I just call it adding
5ive days to the weekend!
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--- Begin Message ---
,,,you can even buy apple computers made by someone else.
But who would want to?
Dave
Some call it retirement, some call it a second career... I just call it
adding 5ive days to the weekend!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave wrote:
> ,,,you can even buy apple computers made by someone else.
>
> But who would want to?
I might. Got a link? ;)
Seriously though. $500 for an underpowered computer? I was running
1.4GHz years ago. All the reviews say 256 ram is not enough. 512 at
a minimum.
http://www.apple.com/macmini/
Who's got a price on the clone?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Saturday I spent about 4 hours stripping out a scrapped fork lift I
was able to take everything electronic.
The Traction motor was an eleven inch motor rated at 14.00kw @ 1000rpm.
The numbers on the tag are Hyster specific though and I was not able to
find any other information on this motor. Does anybody have any way of
possibly helping me figure out if this motor will haul me around in my
car that weighs approx 3100lbs in ICE configuration.
I dont think it will weigh any less when converted.
Here are the motor numbers;
GE Motors
part number 8504667 AU1840
DC volts 36/48 Serial number OR-9-280-OR
KW 14.00 Rpm 1000 Encl of C
Duty 60 min Class H Amps 330
Model number 5BT1336B167A
Thanks in advance.
Mike G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005, Ryan Stotts wrote:
Seriously though. $500 for an underpowered computer? I was running
1.4GHz years ago. All the reviews say 256 ram is not enough. 512 at
a minimum.
1.4ghz is a clock speed for a particular chip. It tells you nothing about
how much work that chip does relative to another running at the same speed
if they use different instruction sets (which powerpc and pentium series
chips most certainly do). Pardon the pun, but compare apples to apples,
not oranges.
There are benchmarks for this sort of thing. Each represents something
different better than other things. I have no comment as to which is a
better gauge. 1.4ghz is only useful to compare against other machines with
the same type of cpu, and otherwise is just a big number.
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--- Begin Message ---
Supposedly there was a company that got one working using the single piston
and a labyrinth for the fluid that resonated 180 deg out of sync with the
piston so that the increase in pressure on one side of the piston by heating
it drove the piston across. the gas would then bounce over to the other
side and as that side was heated help push the piston back. It sounds like
it did the same thing as venting the gas but without loosing the gas.
I know this is sort of vague but my memory on it is not too good and they
were never too clear on the function. It had a coil around and the piston
was magnetized so that it would generate electricity OR you could put ac to
it and it could be used as a chiller. At the time I was convinced it was
real. I believe Cummings bought it and........
It has been a number of years and the links I had are dead except.
http://www.whispertech.co.nz/main/dcwhispergen/
If you decide to investigate further please let me know what you find out.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Peter VanDerWal
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 4:11 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Stirling Engine
> I'm thinking about making model Stirling engine that will generate
> a moderate amount of power.
>
> Do you have any ideas or starting points?
>
> The idea is to see if we can make something that is good enough to
> charge an EV for cheaper then PV panels. I think I may already know
> the answer to this, but perhaps not :)
>
I had a similar thought a few years back, so I did some research. I came
to the conclusion that building a sterling engine large enough to be able
to do any useful work was neither simple nor cheap. At that doesn't even
count the solar concentrator.
In order to be efficient sterlings need to be fairly airtight. This means
a pretty close tolerance between piston and sleeve. But you also want a
low friction contact AND the materials must have a similar temperature
coefficient so that the expand at the same rate when they heat up.
None of the designs I saw looked particularly durable.
I recently came across a different type of heat engine that is similar to
a sterling, but doesn't need to be air tight. In fact it is designed to
vent to the atmosphere at both ends of the piston stroke. When the hot
air expands and moves the piston all the way to one end, it opens a vent
and lets some of the expanding gas out. This way when it cools there is
less gas volume and it contracts even more. When it gets all the way to
the other end it vents again and lets some air in and starts over.
The design I saw included a water cooling coil behind the displacer to
help cool the air.
It only has one moving part (the piston) and doesn't even require a
flywheel. You could build a linear alternator connected to the
reciprocating piston.
This design appears to me to be simpler and possibly more efficient than a
sterling engine.
P.S.
I used to work at a facility that had a large solar generator (10kw) that
used either a sterling or something similar. It was easy to tell when it
was working because it was fairly loud, most of the time however it wasn't
working.
FWIW IIRC it used helium as a working fluid and of course this leaked out
so they had two or three large tanks connected to it at all times to keep
it topped up.
It used a large parabolic reflector, umm maybe 15 ft across. Originally
this was an array of smaller parabolic reflectors. These smaller
reflectors were basically a round hoop with mylar stretched over the front
and back sides. Then they drew a vacumm inside the hoop and it sucked the
mylar down into a parabole. Unfortunately these also leaked and
eventually they found a source for glass mirrors that could be bent into
shape. They used something like twenty mirror segments around the dish.
I worked at that facility for four years. DUring the first year or two
they tried different experiments on the dish to see how it performed,
things like painting over every other mirror to reduce the solar energy
collected, etc. The last two years I was there they just tried to keep it
running. They'd fix it and a week later it'd break down again. It was
down about 3/4 of the time waiting for parts.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ryan, not sure about the cost benefit, but that would be one cool
conversion. If I was to do my project over again, I would have picked one of
these 65 Mark III kit cars. It looks great.
If you wanted to make a business at it, then I doubt it would pay for
itself. Even though the boomers are really pumping up the market for muscle
cars etc., I am not sure how many of them want a muscle EV.
However, if it is for a hobby, then the enjoyment of building and driving
the car is worth the cost.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ryan Stotts
Sent: March 20, 2005 4:53 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Getting more EV's on the road
Typically, when someone has a car such as a Mustang or a Camaro and they
dump thousands of dollars into it for performance mods, if they decide to
sell the vehicle, they usually cannot sell it for the amount they have
invested in it.
Is this true with EV conversions?
You all know the prices of the needed EV components and how they add up.
Say for example, a Dodge Neon or a Chevy Cavalier was converted(or some
other car). Could it be sold for what was tied up in it?
How about in the case of one of these Cobra kit cars? Ten grand right off
the bat for the kit. When the conversion is said and done, would this thing
be a money pit or would it be able to be sold for what it was worth?
http://www.factoryfive.com/
I would like to do some high quality conversions and get them on the road.
I have plenty of time, a garage, tools, and I'm confident that I could do
it. Is it financially prudent though?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>>> I'm thinking about making model Stirling engine that will generate
>>> a moderate amount of power.
>
> Peter VanDerWal wrote:
>> I had a similar thought a few years back, so I did some research.
>> I came to the conclusion that building a sterling engine large
>> enough to be able to do any useful work was neither simple nor cheap.
>
> (Note: It's "stirling", not sterling. That will help in your search)
>
Oops, my bad.
However, I usually do searchs on BOTH spellings because, oddly enough, I'm
not the only one who screws it up.
--- End Message ---
