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Subject: Newbie - Counting Cost and Looking for Good Reading
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:34:30 -0500
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Thread-Topic: Newbie - Counting Cost and Looking for Good Reading
Thread-Index: AcVEI7psB2HYK9PuTp+wI5ntVVToxw==
From: "Beebe, Jerry W Jr [ITS]--
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 07:36:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Buford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Kewl Electric Vehicle (F-14 Tomcat)
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Twin Electric Ducted Fan F-14
http://www.jethangar.com/Aircraft/EDF%20F-14/F-14.html
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Plan great trips with Yahoo! Travel: Now over 17,000 guides!
http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Trouble getting to Roderick Wilde.
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 08:25:34 -0700
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Hi Lawrence, Wilde Evolutions has not existed for about five years. When I
first had the idea of an EV site that handled parts for all EVs, not just on
road ones I went looking for a partner and we formed EV Parts, Inc. and
acquired the onroad assets of Wilde Evolutions. You can reach me directly at
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Roderick
Roderick Wilde, President, EV Parts Inc.
Your Online EV Superstore
www.evparts.com
1-360-385-7082
Phone: 360-582-1270 Fax: 360-582-1272
PO Box 834, Carlsborg, WA 98324
108-B Business Park Loop, Sequim, WA 98382
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2005 6:14 AM
Subject: Trouble getting to Roderick Wilde.
> (You guys must be busy.)
>
> This message was created automatically by mail delivery software.
>
> A message that you sent could not be delivered to one or more of its
> recipients. This is a permanent error. The following address(es) failed:
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Connection timed out:
> retry timeout exceeded
>
> Lawrence Rhodes
> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> Reedmaker
> Book 4/5 doubler
> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 415-821-3519
>
>
>
>
> --
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Trouble getting to Roderick Wilde
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 08:35:55 -0700
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Try this one Lawrence-
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.
Roy LeMeur
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.cloudelectric.com
http://www.dcelectricsupply.com
Cloud Electric Vehicles
19428 66th Ave So, Q-101
Kent, Washington 98032
phone: 425-251-6380
fax: 425-251-6381
Toll Free: 800-648-7716
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Adapter hub runout - how bad is bad??
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 11:36:59 -0400
Mime-Version: 1.0
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>>I just finished machining my hub ( I'm using a purchased QD taper bushing
>>on the motor shaft).
>what is a qd taper bushing ? how much , and where did you get it ?
QD is a standard bushing design ( with a flange) that is manufactured by
several different companies. Mine was made by Martin and I bought it at a
local bearing supply shop for about $12.00. ( TB Woods makes the same
bushing also, and you used to be able to get them at Grainger's). It's got
a keyway for the 1/4 square key that is standard for this shaft size.
The bushing seems to be very good quality. I've tried different rotations
of the hub on the bushing and the error seems to be all in the hub - the
bushing seems to be perfect. ( I made the hub myself, so that's not a
surprise).
QD is the series and it comes in several sizes. SH is the size I've used (
and it comes with different bores), and, of course I have a 1 1/8 inch bore
bushing ( for an ADC). The box says " Martin QD bushing, SH 1 1/8".
Here is a pdf by Martin on the QD series ( dimensions and installation
instructions):
http://www.martinsprocket.com/PDF/b-3.pdf
And here is a picture of the bushing ( and my hub)
http://nick.homelinux.net/phil_echo_b_u/EchoPictures/Echo_adapter_5.jpg
>
>
>>Toyota manual ( this is an Echo) gives a TIR limit of 0.004 inches at the
>>outer part of the flywheel friction surface, and I measure 0.003 on mine.
>>Fine.
>>
>dose that mean you saw .006 on your gauge ,? it will read this way because
>the + .003 becomes - 003. as you turn it 180 degrees .
The difference between high and low was 0.003 inches (By "TIR" I mean
"total indicator runout", or the max between the high and low reading on the
indicator. This is the same as +/- 0.0015)
>>
>when you machished it did you have it on a shaft , and did you have a key
>in the shaft . I had this happen on one I did , I used a old key when
>making it and a new one putting it together , and it throw it off a few
>.001s , putting the old key in fixed it .
>
No - it would have been much better to machine it on the shaft, but I
didn't have a piece of 1 1/8 inch shaft. Next time I'll make a length of
shaft first so I can do it that way.
>
>>
>what is your plan for the plate , how are you going to line it up with the
>tranny?
The tranny input shaft is quite rigid ( no pilot bearing used). So, I'm
using an indicator ( clamped to the tranny shaft) to center the 3.25 inch
pilot hole in the adapter (a good fit to the motor pilot boss) to the tranny
shaft. I'll do this to less than 0.001, tighten the bolts, and then drill
and ream two dowel pins holes through the plate and into the tranny. The
total error should be pretty small ( and I could take it apart and
reassemble it without changing the alignment) . I'm assuming that the motor
boss is accurately centered to the motor shaft.
Here is a picture of the setup. The second rod ( with the clamp on top)
coming up through the adapter hole is there so I can spin the transmission
shaft without disturbing the indicator :
http://nick.homelinux.net/phil_echo_b_u/EchoPictures/Adapter-2%20copy.jpg
When I have the whole thing assembled, I'll spin it up to check for
vibration with and without the clutch engaged.
Phil Marino
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:48:43 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: BB600 screw size?
From: "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
This is interesting. The screw I found that would fit was an M5. I had to
clean the hole before the screw would fit, but after doing so the screw
went in smoothly.
What was odd was that the screw came out with a brown material on it that
looked like a smear of dirty motor oil. It was a zinc-coated steel screw
that I was using to test (I'd never use a screw like this in service) --
could it have been something reacting with the zinc?
--chris
Steve Gaarder said:
> Okay, I'm having a grand old time trying to figure out what kind of screws
> are needed for a Saft BB600 NiCad. Someone said 10/32; they only go in
> for a turn or two. Someone else said M5; they don't go in at all. M4
> just slides in and out. 8/32 works, but seems a little loose. If there is
> such a thing as an M4.5 that might be a good fit. (Interestingly, a
> metric thread pitch of .08 is almost exactly the same as 32 threads per
> inch.)
>
> Does anyone know?
>
> thanks,
>
> Steve Gaarder
>
>
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 11:08:09 -0500
To: [email protected]
From: "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Adapter hub runout - how bad is bad??
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed
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Put a length of stock in the lathe a turn it to the same diameter as the
motor shaft, so that it will be running as true as is possible on your lathe.
Mount the bushing and hub just like they will be on the motor, and take a
skim cut on the flywheel locating surfaces. Should fix the face run out,
if you have a problem with radial run out you will need to turn the
locating shoulder undersize and push on a bushing. Make the bushing first
unless you have two lathes. Or you can make the OD of the bushing
undersize by the amount of the press.
If the taper angles do not match exactly you can sometimes adjust the face
run out by using the removal bolts against the clamping bolts, be careful
not to over tighten anything. But if the angles are that far off you
really have other problems as it may not be able to handle the torque that
you need it to.
____________
Andre' B.
At 10:36 AM 4/18/2005, you wrote:
>>>I just finished machining my hub ( I'm using a purchased QD taper
>>>bushing on the motor shaft).
>
>>what is a qd taper bushing ? how much , and where did you get it ?
>
>QD is a standard bushing design ( with a flange) that is manufactured by
>several different companies. Mine was made by Martin and I bought it at a
>local bearing supply shop for about $12.00. ( TB Woods makes the same
>bushing also, and you used to be able to get them at Grainger's). It's
>got a keyway for the 1/4 square key that is standard for this shaft size.
>
>The bushing seems to be very good quality. I've tried different rotations
>of the hub on the bushing and the error seems to be all in the hub - the
>bushing seems to be perfect. ( I made the hub myself, so that's not a
>surprise).
>
>QD is the series and it comes in several sizes. SH is the size I've used
>( and it comes with different bores), and, of course I have a 1 1/8 inch
>bore bushing ( for an ADC). The box says " Martin QD bushing, SH 1 1/8".
>
>Here is a pdf by Martin on the QD series ( dimensions and installation
>instructions):
>
>http://www.martinsprocket.com/PDF/b-3.pdf
>
>And here is a picture of the bushing ( and my hub)
>
>http://nick.homelinux.net/phil_echo_b_u/EchoPictures/Echo_adapter_5.jpg
>>
>>
>>>Toyota manual ( this is an Echo) gives a TIR limit of 0.004 inches at
>>>the outer part of the flywheel friction surface, and I measure 0.003 on
>>>mine. Fine.
>>dose that mean you saw .006 on your gauge ,? it will read this way
>>because the + .003 becomes - 003. as you turn it 180 degrees .
>
>The difference between high and low was 0.003 inches (By "TIR" I mean
>"total indicator runout", or the max between the high and low reading on
>the indicator. This is the same as +/- 0.0015)
>
>
>>when you machished it did you have it on a shaft , and did you have a key
>>in the shaft . I had this happen on one I did , I used a old key when
>>making it and a new one putting it together , and it throw it off a few
>>.001s , putting the old key in fixed it .
>No - it would have been much better to machine it on the shaft, but I
>didn't have a piece of 1 1/8 inch shaft. Next time I'll make a length of
>shaft first so I can do it that way.
>
>>what is your plan for the plate , how are you going to line it up with
>>the tranny?
>
>The tranny input shaft is quite rigid ( no pilot bearing used). So, I'm
>using an indicator ( clamped to the tranny shaft) to center the 3.25 inch
>pilot hole in the adapter (a good fit to the motor pilot boss) to the
>tranny shaft. I'll do this to less than 0.001, tighten the bolts, and
>then drill and ream two dowel pins holes through the plate and into the
>tranny. The total error should be pretty small ( and I could take it
>apart and reassemble it without changing the alignment) . I'm assuming
>that the motor boss is accurately centered to the motor shaft.
>
>Here is a picture of the setup. The second rod ( with the clamp on top)
>coming up through the adapter hole is there so I can spin the transmission
>shaft without disturbing the indicator :
>
>http://nick.homelinux.net/phil_echo_b_u/EchoPictures/Adapter-2%20copy.jpg
>
>When I have the whole thing assembled, I'll spin it up to check for
>vibration with and without the clutch engaged.
>
>Phil Marino
>>
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now!
>http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Subject: e-scooter availibility
From: Aaron NMLUG-EV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Content-Type: text/plain
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 10:36:54 -0600
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I am thinking about getting a little e-scooter for
short trips near home.
I'm willing to live with moped limits, but I would
entertain spending more $$ for something with
a top speed of closer to 40 or 45... which I feel
more comfortable using on main streets.
Where might I start shopping for something commercial,
or for a relatively simple conversion kit?
--
Aaron Birenboim \ I have an inferiority complex,
Albuquerque, NM, USA \ but its not a very good one.
aaron at birenboim.com \
http://aaron.birenboim.com \
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 10:11:00 -0700
From: Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: DMM as a Meter(w/ onboard PC); LEDs; Emissions Testing
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Lee Hart wrote:
> But
> bureaucrats aren't paid to think; just to follow rules, even when they
> don't make sense.
Or else they'd loose their job or so I was told by one of them
(not as dumb as you may think). So next time don't nesesairly blame
that person, blame the system wich put him in the position to
*have* to follow dumb (And he realizes that!) rules if he wants to
eat and feed his family...
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: warp 9 resistance
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 10:38:24 -0700
MIME-Version: 1.0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Oh this is gonna be good.
Ohms are like 0.003 to 0.0045.
300 divided by .003 is....drum roll please...
100,000 amps ....or in much easier terms BANG!
Oh at 156 it's BANG divided by 2
Can I watch???? Blast shield and welding glasses inplace. EYES!!!!
There are resons for PWM controllers, and series parallel battery and motor
configs ...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 7:23 AM
Subject: warp 9 resistance
> How much resistance ( at temp and RPM) does the 9" motors have.
>
> If I am building a contactor controller and apply 300 volts or 156
> volts, obviously a differnet amount of current will flow initially, rpm
> will create back EMF from there Can I just take an ohm meter to the cold
> motor and use that resistance for my inrush calculations?
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 11:36:40 -0700
From: "Don Cameron \(New Beetle EV\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Build an EV from the ground up
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
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Now that the New Beetle is nearing completion I am turning by attention to
building an EV sports car from the ground up. I look at the T-Zero and the
Venturi Fetish and think a similar design (low, light and aerodynamic) would be
a good option. There are many kit car options that can be good candidates.
Although my associates have experience building cars from the ground up,
utilizing suspension, steering, windows and some other components from OEM, I
would like to inquire if anyone out there has any good experience in this area
and can offer some suggestions.
Any relevant information is welcome.
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-------------------------------------------------
This mail sent through IMP: http://horde.org/imp/
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 14:42:53 -0500
From: Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Build an EV from the ground up
Mime-Version: 1.0
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On 4/18/05, Don Cameron wrote:
> Now that the New Beetle is nearing completion I am turning by attention to
> building an EV sports car from the ground up.
Looking for the ultimate ideal car and no production ICE car is that?
All too heavy or?
> There are many kit car options that can be good candidates.
One thing I like most about the kit cars is it's a frame design with a
fiberglass body on it. Get the frame powder coated, and the car
should last a long time...
Take a look at this older Corvette frame for example:
http://img186.echo.cx/img186/9962/chassis8hx.jpg
How aerodynamic is it as it sits right there? Remove the motor,
exhaust, and fuel tank and now how much does it weigh?
The nice thing about having a frame such as that, I think it could
handle 29 AGM's for a 348 volt system..
The line between a "kit car" and a "hot rod" seems not so clear to me
anymore. Used too, a hot rod was an older car. An original car. Now
they are mostly after market frames with a fiberglass body.. Used to,
a kit car was taking some car, and turning it into something else..
Like taking a Fiero and making it look like a Lamborghini or Ferrari.
Now most kit cars are an after market frame and a fiberglass body..
Here for example is a "kit car" company that sells what look to me to
be "hot rods":
http://www.streetbeasts.com/
So you want the ultimate car? Something lightweight and aerodynamic.
The pluses of a kitcar/hotrod would be that it would be unique, and
you'd be dealing with a vehicle that was all brand new and show car
clean.
I'm thinking maybe your experiences in dealing with that new style
Beetle have you not wanting to experience yet again, taking some
modern ICE car and having to "re-engineer" it into being an electric?
Browsing through a recent kit car magazine, it just seems like page
after page of Cobra and Speedster kits. It's certainly not the way I
remember how "kit cars" were in the 1980's.
Might there be something on this page that would suit your needs?
http://www.factoryfive.com/table/ffrkits/ffrkits.html
Kit cars and hot rods are by no means a low cost way into owning a car.
If you want to build a really hot street car, I'd suggest picking
something up that has a huge after market.
How about a Mustang, Camaro, or Corvette(what else is there really)?
Bullet proof differentials and manual transmissions. They all weigh
stock between 3,000 and 3,500.
I have seen V8 Mustangs weighing 2400lbs and it's not uncommon of for
one to be 2600lbs.
There is a lot of weight in the interiors of these cars. Also the
stock hoods weigh a ton.
Supposedly that Cobra kit weighs 2150lbs with the motor...
Or are you wanting to take something like this and turn it into a car?
http://www.jegs.com/photos/550newchassis.jpg
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4638&prmenbr=361
Hand fabricate the body for it?
What are your plans, intentions, and desires?
Date: 18 Apr 2005 19:58:52 -0000
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: TdS Report #8: Team Profile: Western Washington University: Viking 23
and Viking 32
TdS Report #8: Team Profile: Western Washington University: Viking 23 and
Viking 32
(This report was provided by the Viking teams.)
Western Washington University's Vehicle Research Institute has been designing
and building award winning prototype vehicles since 1972. Over 36 vehicles
have been completed. For their entry in the 2005 Tour de Sol a group of
students formed the Vehicle Research Hybrid Club. They made a formal
presentation the WWU's associated student association to receive recognized
club status and be eligible to apply for funding. They put together a great
power point proposal and were awarded $1,600 to update and improve Viking 23
and Viking 32. Both these cars had previously completed in the TdS. Although
this club originally had 25 active members in November it currently has only 7
students who are working on the vehicles and plan to attend the TdS. The team
captain is Kate Stenson. The students on the team are all new to hybrid
vehicles and this will be their first competition. Dr. Michael Seal, the
retired past director of the VRI agreed to be their faculty advisor for the
2005 Tour de Sol.
With the help of a retired electrical engineer from Eaton Corporation Emily
Morris has completely rewired the high energy battery system in Viking 23. The
Saft NiCd batteries have been reconditioned and individually brought up to full
charge.
At last year's TdS the bio-diesel Diahatsu engine overheated and seized. Ryan
Cruse and Brian White took apart the engine and the head, which had a slight
warp from the overheating, was sent out for grinding. As this engine is not
available in the US, Ryan located new gaskets in England and Japan and had them
shipped to Bellingham. The engine is together in Viking 23 and is running
well.
Viking 32, which has a hydraulic suspension system which allows it to change
its ride height, had problems at last years TdS and cracked its front body
going over curbs and potholes. This resulted in a redesign of the suspension
and the addition of a reservoir for additional hydraulic fluid. The interior
of Viking 32 was redone with leather upholstery. The windows are unique as
they are round with complicated mechanism that was not working properly last
year and didn't seal against the car. Calvin Lin and Sean Aylward worked with
Dr. Seal to refit and stiffen the windows to fit properly and should improve
the aerodynamics of the vehicle. Another aerodynamic improvement was completed
by Matt Willson who fitted belly pans to the underside of Viking 32.
VEHICLE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
WESTERN WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY
BELLINGHAM, WASHINGTON
360 650 3045
http://vri.etec.wwu.edu
Viking 23: Specifications
Electric Drive to Front Wheels
UQM 47 HP (12 kW continuous 32 kW peak power brushless Dc motor utilizes
Neodymium permanent magnets and water cooling for both motor and controller.
System efficiency = 96%
- Regenerative braking controlled with a potentiometer at brake pedal
and VRI designed torque control electronics.
- Two speed Subaru manual transaxle with Geo Metro drive axles and hubs,
and double Gilmer belt drive to the motor.
Traction battery pack is 233.3 volts and 5.184 Watt hours from 144 Saft NiCad
cells in series. Battery pack weight is 306 lbs. approximate cost $5,500.
Biodiesel Engine to the Rear Wheels
Diahatsu Charade 1 liter 3 cylinder 43 HP turbo-charged Biodiesel engine and
5-speed manual transaxle driving the rear axles which have air-cooled
overrunning clutches to minimize system friction when operating in ZEV mode on
electric front drive only.
Composite Monocoque 2 Seat Sports Coupe Body and Chassis
- Body is vacuum bagged carbon fiber reinforced polymer in a sandwich
construction with closed cell PVC foam core.
- Chassis is bonded flat sandwich panels of carbon fiber reinforced
polymer with Nomex honeycomb core.
Dimensions: Length = 157''; Width = 70''; Height = 44''
Weight of entire car = 1901 lbs.
Windshield: Acura NSX
Racing fuel tank capacity = 7.5 gal.
Suspension:
VRI designed and built 4 wheel independent suspension with ``long and short
arm'' double wishbones and coil over shocks.
Tires and Wheels:
- General XP 2000 II tires, size 205/50 R 15 on front and rear.
- Custom 15'' x 5'' alloy wheels.
Brakes:
- Yamaha motorcycle disc brakes front and rear,
with VRI designed and built rotors.
- Honda motorcycle disc emergency brake on front rotors.
Performance:
- Estimated efficiency -- 50 mpg city 50 mpg highway
- Top speed more than 100 mph
Viking 32: Specifications
Electric Drive to Front Wheels
- UQM 100 hp (50 kW continuous, 75 kW peak power) brushless DC motor utilizes
Neodymium permanent magnet and water cooling for both motor and controller.
System efficiency = 96%
- Regenerative braking controlled with a potentiometer at brake pedal and VRI
designed torque control electronics
- Two speed Volkswagen automatic shift transmission. Student built and
programmed computer that controls the clutchless shifting.
- Traction battery is 330 volts, 4.7 kW hours from two 44 cell strings in
parallel Battery pack weight 250 lbs. Approximate cost is $12,000.
CNG Engine to the rear Wheels
- 2002 Honda Civic 1.7 liter CNG engine producing 100 hp (75 kW) drives through
a van Doorne system continuously variable transmission (CTV)
Composite 2 + 2 seat sports Body and Chassis
- Body is vacuum bagged carbon fiber reinforced polymer in a sandwich
construction with closed cell PVC foam core. - Chassis is bonded flat sandwich
panels of carbon fiber reinforced polymer with Nomex honeycomb core.
Dimensions: Length = 14' 5''; Width = 5' 6''; Height = 5'
Weight of entire car = 2,200 lbs.
Windshield: Acura NSX
CNG fuel tank capacity = 6.2 gal gas equiv.
Suspension:
- VRI designed and built semi-active height control suspension allows 8 inches
of ground clearance in the high position and 5 inches in the highway mode.
Tires and Wheels
- Michelin 205/60 Radial - Forged aluminum 5 spoke wheels
Brakes:
- Honda disc and calipers on front. Honda disc and Ford SHO calipers on the
rear to provide powerful handbrake.
Performance:
- Estimated efficiency -- 50 mpg city 50 mpg highway 0-60 in 5.5 sec
- Top speed more than 100 mph
- - - -
The complete set of Tour de Sol Reports for 2005 can be found at:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005
The complete set of past Tour de Sol Reports can be found at:
http://www.FovealSystems.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html
- - - -
The above is Copyright 2005 by Michael H. Bianchi.
Permission to copy is granted provided the entire article is presented
without modification and this notice remains attached.
For other arrangements, contact me at +1-973-822-2085 .
- - - -
For more on the NESEA Tour de Sol, see the web page at
http://www.TourdeSol.org
- - - -
Official NESEA Tour de Sol information is available from the sponsor,
the Northeast Sustainable Energy Association (NESEA) at
413 774-6051 , and 50 Miles Street, Greenfield, MA 01301 , and
[EMAIL PROTECTED] . All media enquiries should be addressed to ...
Jack Groh
Tour de Sol Communications Director
P.O. Box 6044
Warwick, RI 02887-6044
401 732-1551
401 732-0547 fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 12:59:01 -0700
From: Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: EV Golf cars site
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Rod and all may find this informative:
http://www.golfcarcatalog.com/information.cfm/step/3/information_id/5.html
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
Date: 18 Apr 2005 19:58:02 -0000
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: TdS Report #7: Team Profiles and Vehicle Specifications
TdS Report #7: Team Profiles and Vehicle Specifications
If you look back over the Tour de Sol Reports from years past, the pattern was
to have a Team Profile that combined the human stories with the mechanical and
electrical details of the vehicle that team entered. But I'm going to depart
from that model this year.
Instead, I've asked the teams to send me the technical information and some of
their story in advance so more of the time spent on the interviews can be about
the more unusual aspects of their history and entry.
First to respond was Western Washington University, which is entering Viking 23
and Viking 32. We'll start with those Reports.
- - - -
The complete set of Tour de Sol Reports for 2005 can be found at:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005
The complete set of past Tour de Sol Reports can be found at:
http://www.FovealSystems.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html
- - - -
The above is Copyright 2005 by Michael H. Bianchi.
Permission to copy is granted provided the entire article is presented
without modification and this notice remains attached.
For other arrangements, contact me at +1-973-822-2085 .
- - - -
For more on the NESEA Tour de Sol, see the web page at
http://www.TourdeSol.org
- - - -
Official NESEA Tour de Sol information is available from the sponsor,
the Northeast Sustainable Energy Association (NESEA) at
413 774-6051 , and 50 Miles Street, Greenfield, MA 01301 , and
[EMAIL PROTECTED] . All media enquiries should be addressed to ...
Jack Groh
Tour de Sol Communications Director
P.O. Box 6044
Warwick, RI 02887-6044
401 732-1551
401 732-0547 fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 13:19:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fwd: Build an EV from the ground up
To: EVList <[email protected]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
--- "Don Cameron (New Beetle EV)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Although my associates have experience building cars from the ground up,
> utilizing suspension, steering, windows and some other components from OEM, I
> would like to inquire if anyone out there has any good experience in this area
> and can offer some suggestions.
Before reality set in, I was hoping to build my first ev from a kit car. Here's
a link to one that
I would liked to have used. Light, sporty and ready for an electric drivetrain.
http://www.thunderranch.com/550.html
Dave Cover
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 13:18:53 -0700
From: Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Question to lead batteries experts
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
As a BMS hardware being evolved, as "by-product" a battery node
for monitoring and taking care of for 12V lead battery will be
offered as well [as for LiIon] - the hardware changes are minimal.
For some who would not want expense of LCD display and will be
satisfied with warning light/7 seg display some limits have to be
programmed in and for non-configurable option I don't know
what limits to use to take advantage of max A/D range.
Since lead acid battery is "dead" at 11V and good battery under
heavy load (drag racing type) may sag to 7V or so, there is no
point to measure voltages from, say 6V down to zero. At 6V
it is as dead as at 5V or at 2V - so do people care whether battery
reads 2V or 5V or "<6V" is enough info?
So the question 1 is - what is useful range to be accurately displayed
(to be scaled to fill A/D input range)?
I thought 6...18V should cover all conditions and beyond
these limits you don't care what exactly the value is.
Question 2: if a battery sag, the warning condition can be latched.
What are the conditions for warning, provided they are programmable.
- 10.75V per battery at what current?
- And/Or ??V at no current (idle). Say, if it is 12.00V at 0A
(or 1A or whatever_you_say A) current, the warning comes on.
- One battery is different from average by more than XX volts.
What XX equals to to be useful?
I realize these are battery type dependent, but something common
has to be programmed in (user can adjust hardware as he see fit).
In general, what warning regarding your pack do you want on your dash?
Any input is welcome.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Harris, Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'[email protected]'" <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: Wire Gauge questions
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 16:36:16 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On >
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: April 16, 2005 9:06 AM
> To: EV Discussion List
> Subject: Re: Wire Gauge questions
>
> << Orange sounds good for positive, with orange-and-black for negative.
> I'm sure I've got appropriately colored electrical tape around here
> somewhere...
>
> Jude >>
>
> How about green for negative (DC)/neutral (AC)? They list it as an option
at
> http://store.solar-electric.com/wc--2-0.html
>
My take on this would be that RED is positive, BLACK is negative; GREEN is
an earth or frame ground safety.
I find it confusing enough that in A/C BLACK is the switched HOT line and
WHITE is return while in DC usually RED is the switched +'v line and BLACK
is the -'v and usually the common return line.
I would guess you might use a separate wire to ensure the many metal parts
in the high voltage system were all connected electrically especially if you
are trying to keep the low voltage DC and the high voltage DC systems
isolated. I would also guess you might use GREEN for this to be consistent
with the use in A/C systems which people are familiar. I would not guess
that GREEN was the D/C negative line, which is usually BLACK. Maybe it
should be GREEEN with an ORANGE stripe :-)
Does anyone wire an isolated safety ground in the high voltage systems on
cars? I don't recall it ever being mentioned.
Lawrence
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 15:41:53 -0500
From: Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Build an EV from the ground up
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Disposition: inline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
That Riot car looks like a tzero....
http://www.thunderranch.com/riot.html
http://www.acpropulsion.com/tzero_pages/tzero_home.htm
Is that what the tzero is based off of or built from?
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 13:46:06 -0700
To: [email protected]
From: John Lussmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: Wire Gauge questions
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
At 01:36 PM 4/18/2005, you wrote:
>I find it confusing enough that in A/C BLACK is the switched HOT line and
>WHITE is return
That's easy to remember. Just think of the insulation as the color of your
skin if you touch it... :-)
--- End Message ---
