EV Digest 4292
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) corvette glider
by Carl Clifford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) EV Cudas!!! Re: Build an EV from the ground up
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Wire Gauge questions
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Build an EV from the ground up
by Brian Hay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Question to lead batteries experts
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: warp 9 resistance
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Wire Gauge questions
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Build an EV from the ground up
by Gordon Niessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Wire Gauge questions
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Re: EV Cudas!!! Re: Build an EV from the ground up
by "Lord Khaos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Painting wire, was: Wire Gauge questions
by jimevdl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) article: =?windows-1252?Q?India=92s_Reva-NXG_Electric_Road?=
=?windows-1252?Q?ster?=
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Question to lead batteries experts
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Wire Gauge questions
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Eliminating motor current limits
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: TdS Report #9: Photos - Western Washington University's entrants:
Viking 23 and Viking 32
by "Ken Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Question to lead batteries experts
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Wire Gauge questions
by Gnat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: BB600 screw size?
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Eliminating motor current limits
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) Re: article: =?iso-8859-1?b?SW5kaWGScw==?= Reva-NXG Electric
Roadster
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) Electric dog hauler?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
23) Re: Need cheep 12V thermostat circuit OT
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Build an EV from the ground up
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
25) Batt-Bridge monitor
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Cheep thermostat circuit
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: BB600 screw size?
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Fwd: Re: Build an EV from the ground up
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Isetta glider? Maybe not. Very rough.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Milwaukee Electric Tool V28 Lithium Ion Tech. Plans for autos?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Cheep thermostat circuit
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Not mine, just a heads-up
needs a lot but lightweight and cheap - somebody please convert a Corvette!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4544118786&category=39405
Carl
Denver
grinless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lord and All,
The Barracuda would be a much better idea than
your van idea for EV use as the costs run directly to
weight and aerodynamics which the Baracuda is much
better for. I always loved it's looks and the fastest
I've ever gone on land was 140 mph in a hot Cuda!
And when comes time to sell it, the Cuda EV
will bring much better bucks so a better investment!
For good range between 40-50% of the vehicles
weight should be in batteries. So your cost in both
batts and EV drive stuff goes up directly with weight
and aero drag so the less of each, the better EV it
will be.
If you like fast EV's though, there are ways
to make it really fast if you like.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
--- Lord Khaos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Now that the New Beetle is nearing completion I am
> turning by attention to
> > building an EV sports car from the ground up.
>
> being the hopless gearhead and Mopar fanatic that I
> am one car that seemed
> overlooked in that catagory is the early Barracudas.
> They are extremely
> light have ample room in the front and back for
> batterys, and many of the
> harder to find parts are easily upgraded to modern
> equipment with bolt on
> swaps. (front discs and modern brakes from later
> Darts). Would also make a
> fine head turner, and the pre '67s can be found
> relitivly inexpensivly
> still.
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Plan great trips with Yahoo! Travel: Now over 17,000 guides!
http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Obviously this would be a very severe wreck, but they might need to
cut through them and more to get you out of the car.
--- Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm not clear on why "emergency personnel"(firefighters?), might
> want
> to cut my cables?
>
> Imagine it setup like this: battery pack in the trunk. You know
> what
> a big battery pack looks like and someone would have to be
> crazy(foolish?) to go cutting one of those cables.
>
> 2 cables going under the carpet through the firewall to the Zilla.
> 2
> short cables from the Zilla to the motor.
>
> Why would someone want to cut those?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Plan great trips with Yahoo! Travel: Now over 17,000 guides!
http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don Cameron (New Beetle EV) wrote:
I like the Jaguar XJ13 replica by Denis Bedford at
http://www.copycatcars.com/infoaboutus.htm.
Brian, this is exactly what I am looking for. Thanks for the help.
No problem. I think it'd be a great base for an EV. If anyone here gets
round to doing an EV conversion of this XJ13 I'd be much endebted to you
if you'd share your experience with the web/list!
The XJ13 is a very stylish and unique car too. I don't wish to offend
the Americans on this list but I find many American car designs
(especially kits and EVs like the T-zero) too be either too
over-the-top, "bold and brash" or outright illproportioned. There's not
the same stylish subtlety that you tend to get with many European car
designs. Of course there are exceptions. Just my personal taste and
observations. Each to his own.
On that note, I think EVs in general would gain much more widespread
acceptance if there was more attention paid to design/looks than is
often the case. Why are so many EVs so butt ugly? I won't name the
offenders (in my mind) but hopefully perceptions in the marketplace will
change with the design sensibilities and originality of cars like the
Venturi Fetish and Toyota Prius (not a great beauty by any stretch but
certainly original and easy on the eye).
If you haven't guessed already, I'm more of a designer than an engineer!
Just my 2c. Bring on the flames ;-)
--
Regards,
Brian Hay.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hmm, it seems to me that anyone screaming down the drag strip will have
more important things to do than check individual battery voltages.
However, since I've never drag raced, I'm not exactly knowledgable here.
Assuming I'm correct, it would make more sense (to me) to have a display
that reads from 9V to 17V (a nice binary related spread). Ordinary
[people sometimes need to take their batteries below "dead" and it would
be nice to know how badly you've treated them.
FWIW 10.5V on a 12V pack is normally "Dead". 11V, on a lot of GC
batteries, is normaly operating voltage. I routinely saw my 120V pack of
8V GCs sag down to 110V during the first few minutes of driving. In fact
I pretty much used that as my throttle set point on my way to work.
> As a BMS hardware being evolved, as "by-product" a battery node
> for monitoring and taking care of for 12V lead battery will be
> offered as well [as for LiIon] - the hardware changes are minimal.
>
> For some who would not want expense of LCD display and will be
> satisfied with warning light/7 seg display some limits have to be
> programmed in and for non-configurable option I don't know
> what limits to use to take advantage of max A/D range.
>
> Since lead acid battery is "dead" at 11V and good battery under
> heavy load (drag racing type) may sag to 7V or so, there is no
> point to measure voltages from, say 6V down to zero. At 6V
> it is as dead as at 5V or at 2V - so do people care whether battery
> reads 2V or 5V or "<6V" is enough info?
>
> So the question 1 is - what is useful range to be accurately displayed
> (to be scaled to fill A/D input range)?
>
> I thought 6...18V should cover all conditions and beyond
> these limits you don't care what exactly the value is.
>
> Question 2: if a battery sag, the warning condition can be latched.
> What are the conditions for warning, provided they are programmable.
>
> - 10.75V per battery at what current?
>
> - And/Or ??V at no current (idle). Say, if it is 12.00V at 0A
> (or 1A or whatever_you_say A) current, the warning comes on.
>
> - One battery is different from average by more than XX volts.
> What XX equals to to be useful?
>
> I realize these are battery type dependent, but something common
> has to be programmed in (user can adjust hardware as he see fit).
>
> In general, what warning regarding your pack do you want on your dash?
>
> Any input is welcome.
>
> --
> Victor
> '91 ACRX - something different
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well you've got to admit, at these voltages, contact controllers give you
the most BANG for the buck.
LOL
> Oh this is gonna be good.
>
> Ohms are like 0.003 to 0.0045.
>
> 300 divided by .003 is....drum roll please...
>
> 100,000 amps ....or in much easier terms BANG!
>
> Oh at 156 it's BANG divided by 2
>
> Can I watch???? Blast shield and welding glasses inplace. EYES!!!!
>
> There are resons for PWM controllers, and series parallel battery and
> motor
> configs ...
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 7:23 AM
> Subject: warp 9 resistance
>
>
>> How much resistance ( at temp and RPM) does the 9" motors have.
>>
>> If I am building a contactor controller and apply 300 volts or 156
>> volts, obviously a differnet amount of current will flow initially, rpm
>> will create back EMF from there Can I just take an ohm meter to the cold
>> motor and use that resistance for my inrush calculations?
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Another important point. It would take a much less severe wreck to end up
with the HV cable being cut/insulation abraded BEFORE the rescue workers
show up. It would be nice (for them) to know that this cut/bare wire
might be dangerous.
> Obviously this would be a very severe wreck, but they might need to
> cut through them and more to get you out of the car.
>
> --- Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> I'm not clear on why "emergency personnel"(firefighters?), might
>> want
>> to cut my cables?
>>
>> Imagine it setup like this: battery pack in the trunk. You know
>> what
>> a big battery pack looks like and someone would have to be
>> crazy(foolish?) to go cutting one of those cables.
>>
>> 2 cables going under the carpet through the firewall to the Zilla.
>> 2
>> short cables from the Zilla to the motor.
>>
>> Why would someone want to cut those?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Plan great trips with Yahoo! Travel: Now over 17,000 guides!
> http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any good Lotus Kits in the USA? I found some through Google, but they are
all in the UK.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<< Obviously this would be a very severe wreck, but they might need to
cut through them and more to get you out of the car. >>
Yow! I wonder how surviveable a crash is when they have to cut you out *from the
bottom*! I still think if you have safety concerns driving something HV, the
minimum is contactors on both + and - sides of the pack and an inertia switch
to cut the power to both of them at the first hint of a crash - just make it
easily accessible to reset.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The A-100's also have a pretty big following, other than aerodynamics, I
think my van isn't more than a couple hundred pounds heavier than a
Barracuda, and is already set up to carry over 2000 pounds, not to mention I
already have a couple of the vans. and can play with layout on my parts van
before cutting old faithful. I've been playing with a tape measure some,
and I think I can do 20-24 batteries in the van (should be about 50% of
weight depending on batteries) and have it so you can barley even tell
without looking underneath (completely open cargo area).
Also I need a van for most of my commuting (2 big dogs) and I can't really
afford to give up the space that converting a sports car would require. If
this conversion goes well, they will see me at the track in my next one..
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry dycus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2005 7:07 PM
Subject: EV Cudas!!! Re: Build an EV from the ground up
> Hi Lord and All,
> The Barracuda would be a much better idea than
> your van idea for EV use as the costs run directly to
> weight and aerodynamics which the Baracuda is much
> better for. I always loved it's looks and the fastest
> I've ever gone on land was 140 mph in a hot Cuda!
> And when comes time to sell it, the Cuda EV
> will bring much better bucks so a better investment!
> For good range between 40-50% of the vehicles
> weight should be in batteries. So your cost in both
> batts and EV drive stuff goes up directly with weight
> and aero drag so the less of each, the better EV it
> will be.
> If you like fast EV's though, there are ways
> to make it really fast if you like.
> HTH's,
> Jerry Dycus
>
>
> --- Lord Khaos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > Now that the New Beetle is nearing completion I am
> > turning by attention to
> > > building an EV sports car from the ground up.
> >
> > being the hopless gearhead and Mopar fanatic that I
> > am one car that seemed
> > overlooked in that catagory is the early Barracudas.
> > They are extremely
> > light have ample room in the front and back for
> > batterys, and many of the
> > harder to find parts are easily upgraded to modern
> > equipment with bolt on
> > swaps. (front discs and modern brakes from later
> > Darts). Would also make a
> > fine head turner, and the pre '67s can be found
> > relitivly inexpensivly
> > still.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Plan great trips with Yahoo! Travel: Now over 17,000 guides!
> http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.16 - Release Date: 4/18/2005
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not sure about the rubber insulation on welding cable, but I tried painting
some waterproof flexible conduit (the gray plastic stuff from Home Depot). The
orange paint didn't come out very bright, and after several hours of "drying",
the paint attacked the plastic, and made a sticky mess. Even if the color was
correct, the tackiness would attract dirt to the point where it would be dirt
colored in no time. Spray paints have some nasty solvents, that I wouldn't
want around my HV cable insulation. Also, if it did cure properly, any amount
of flex would probably chip the paint right off.
A guy at the Texas Plug In mentioned he knew where to buy orange loom. I'll
give him a call and post the source when I find out.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Apr 18, 2005 5:09 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wire Gauge questions
Rush wrote:
>>> http://store.solar-electric.com/wc--2-0.html
> They don't have it, tried to order it and the don't know when they
> will get it again. Nobody has orange or even knows where to get it.
Someone mentioned spray painting the wire... is that an option which
would allow us to get quality welding cable and in the color orange?
Would spray painting the wire have any negative effects on the insulation?
Thanks,
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Shaped like a Smart ForTwo on steroids.
link:
http://www.jalopnik.com/cars/alternative-energy/indias-revanxg-electric-roadster-040184.php
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think the only things you really need to know are:
(driving)
Am I dropping a battery below 11 volts.
(charging)
Am I pushing a battery above 14.7 volts.
Am I pushing a battery above 15.6 volts.
If you could see this on all of your batteries *per battery* you would
be set. That's why I built the little LED monitor for my Elec-trak pack,
and why I think it would be great for an <120 volt pack.
I am working on the next gen system with color LED array (8*8) but the
goal is still the same. When I see a red light while driving I check my
E-meter. If I'm not near empty I have a battery that needs a perk up
charge. In the meantime lightening up on the throttle will make the
light go out and get me home.
If I charge and one battery is green (14.7) and the rest are not I have
an out of balance pack. Amount of out-balance is the time between the
first light and the last coming on. Cut back current. If I see a light
go yellow (>15.6) I need to cut the charge back *hard* and trickle the
pack up to full.
Actual voltages? Do you really need that cluttering up your mind while
driving? One's eye can catch a light on a grid a lot easier than a bunch
of lights going up and down.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 05:09 PM 18/04/05 -0500, Nick wrote:
Someone mentioned spray painting the wire...
Geez, guys. I live in a relatively isolated part of Australia, I go into my
local electrical wholesaler who is oriented towards industrial stuff (we
have an Aluminium smelter and a ferro-manganese smelter in the area, they
get to supply some stuff to them). But I can get this kind of wire through
any of the electrical wholesalers here (pay a bit more or wait longer with
the other suppliers).
In mm2 (no idea the AWG equivalent), I can get single insulated orange (or
any one of about 10 other colours) in 0.5, 0.75, 1.0, 2.5, 4.0 and
welding-type dual insulated orange (the inner is white to show chafe) in 6,
10, 16, 25, 35, 50, 75, 95, 120. I can get (but it is a bit expensive)
orange flexible conduit (Annaconda) to shove wires down, but that is coil
at a time.
These are all flexible cables, with ratings, meet the Australian Standard
for industrial cables, 600V etc. They stock very little that my business
needs (mostly normal electricians stuff), the usual thing is <clicky click>
"yep, be here tomorrow" and it is.
I find it hard to believe that it is such a big deal to get orange
insulated wires in the USA! Is the electrical industry in the states *that*
bad? Or is everyone looking in the wrong places?
Besides that, run the HV where it is not going to be a deal - in the
under-vehicle space where the fuel lines were (etc), and emergency personel
won't nedd to cut it, and won't be near it if it is damaged.
Just my $0.02
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Apr 17, 2005, at 11:18 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Is there any way to leave the battery current limit in a Curtis
(i.e.-input
amps), but remove that limit from the motor circuit (i.e.-output
amps)? This
seems like a useful thing to dbe able to do, eliminating one of the
major
drawbacks of their controllers.
No, first they only measure the output current. Second, if you moved
that to the input side the freewheel diodes would let their sacred
smoke out pretty quick. They won't like 1000 amps freewheeling through
them very long!
Now, could some even better freewheel diode system be installed at the
motor...
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is the URL for the whole site related to WWU's VRI program.
http://vri.etec.wwu.edu/index.htm
________________________________
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mon 4/18/2005 1:58 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: TdS Report #9: Photos - Western Washington University's entrants:
Viking 23 and Viking 32
TdS Report #9: Photos - Western Washington University's entrants: Viking 23
and Viking 32
Photographs from the Tour de Sol:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005/photos_001.html
Western Washington University's entrants: Viking 23 and Viking 32
Viking 23 has appeared in the Tour de Sol many times since its first appearance
in 1996.
It has changed quite a bit in that time, but the basic body pan and
front-wheel-electric-motor and rear-wheel-ICE-engine plan has been consistent.
Viking 32, without its racing decorations ...
and with them.
- - - -
The complete set of Tour de Sol Reports for 2005 can be found at:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005
The complete set of past Tour de Sol Reports can be found at:
http://www.FovealSystems.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html
- - - -
The above is Copyright 2005 by Michael H. Bianchi.
Permission to copy is granted provided the entire article is presented
without modification and this notice remains attached.
For other arrangements, contact me at +1-973-822-2085 .
- - - -
For more on the NESEA Tour de Sol, see the web page at
http://www.TourdeSol.org
- - - -
Official NESEA Tour de Sol information is available from the sponsor,
the Northeast Sustainable Energy Association (NESEA) at
413 774-6051 , and 50 Miles Street, Greenfield, MA 01301 , and
[EMAIL PROTECTED] . All media enquiries should be addressed to ...
Jack Groh
Tour de Sol Communications Director
P.O. Box 6044
Warwick, RI 02887-6044
401 732-1551
401 732-0547 fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Apr 18, 2005, at 1:18 PM, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
As a BMS hardware being evolved, as "by-product" a battery node
for monitoring and taking care of for 12V lead battery will be
offered as well [as for LiIon] - the hardware changes are minimal.
For some who would not want expense of LCD display and will be
satisfied with warning light/7 seg display some limits have to be
programmed in and for non-configurable option I don't know
what limits to use to take advantage of max A/D range.
Since lead acid battery is "dead" at 11V and good battery under
heavy load (drag racing type) may sag to 7V or so, there is no
point to measure voltages from, say 6V down to zero. At 6V
it is as dead as at 5V or at 2V - so do people care whether battery
reads 2V or 5V or "<6V" is enough info?
So the question 1 is - what is useful range to be accurately displayed
(to be scaled to fill A/D input range)?
OK, you have my interest. A small LED bar graph for each battery where
the bars can be put together into one housing (for dash installation)
would be something subtle enough for my buggy. The number of displays
should be a variable, but I can make my own gauge housing to fit them
in the dash.
My concerns are mostly standby current (a simple method to turn them
off when the vehicle is off would be easiest) and the range. My range
recommendation is a line that can make them either 1.5vpc to 2.0vpc, or
2.0vpc to 2.5vpc (approximate values.) This is basically a charge or
discharge scale range so that each range has good resolution (about 0.1
vpc.) The exact numbers are variable. Short of this a range of 1.5vpc
to 2.5vpc can work (less sensitive to changes.)
I've eyed these designs before, there are some chips out there to run a
display. But I'm not into implementation and so live with a lot less
information. My current battery number is 10, but 11 to 13 are in the
possible future. Again, I can handle the mounting if I can just get the
bar graphs next to each other for compact mounting.
Please explain what you have in mind :-)
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This isn't a comemnt on James email but a reply to the previous.
My mailbox is acting a bit screwed and I'm not getting all the messages in
order.
Have a look for heat shrink tubing it does come in several colors including
orange
yellow, white, black, blue, red. I've used the 3/4" ~18mm size which is
common
and there are some available which go much larger in size. Don't have to
cover
the entire cable in it but just put a few rings a few inches long on the
cable
with the ends near the connectors covered. Enough that you can look and see
the
cable is marked as the color. It's cheap and easy to use.
Dave
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> Behalf Of James Massey
-> Sent: April 18, 2005 8:43 PM
-> To: [email protected]
-> Subject: Re: Wire Gauge questions
->
->
-> At 05:09 PM 18/04/05 -0500, Nick wrote:
-> >Someone mentioned spray painting the wire...
->
-> Geez, guys. I live in a relatively isolated part of Australia, I
-> go into my
-> local electrical wholesaler who is oriented towards industrial stuff (we
-> have an Aluminium smelter and a ferro-manganese smelter in the
-> area, they
-> get to supply some stuff to them). But I can get this kind of
-> wire through
-> any of the electrical wholesalers here (pay a bit more or wait
-> longer with
-> the other suppliers).
->
-> In mm2 (no idea the AWG equivalent), I can get single insulated
-> orange (or
-> any one of about 10 other colours) in 0.5, 0.75, 1.0, 2.5, 4.0 and
-> welding-type dual insulated orange (the inner is white to show
-> chafe) in 6,
-> 10, 16, 25, 35, 50, 75, 95, 120. I can get (but it is a bit expensive)
-> orange flexible conduit (Annaconda) to shove wires down, but
-> that is coil
-> at a time.
->
-> These are all flexible cables, with ratings, meet the Australian
-> Standard
-> for industrial cables, 600V etc. They stock very little that my business
-> needs (mostly normal electricians stuff), the usual thing is
-> <clicky click>
-> "yep, be here tomorrow" and it is.
->
-> I find it hard to believe that it is such a big deal to get orange
-> insulated wires in the USA! Is the electrical industry in the
-> states *that*
-> bad? Or is everyone looking in the wrong places?
->
-> Besides that, run the HV where it is not going to be a deal - in the
-> under-vehicle space where the fuel lines were (etc), and
-> emergency personel
-> won't nedd to cut it, and won't be near it if it is damaged.
->
-> Just my $0.02
->
-> James
->
->
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
10-32
It is a old US military battery specification. I used 160 10-32 x 3/8
UNF stainless pan or truss head screws in mine. I had to chase the
threads as they had 20+ years of corrosion in them. I removed white
powdery corrosion.
Seth
On Apr 18, 2005, at 10:48 AM, Christopher Robison wrote:
This is interesting. The screw I found that would fit was an M5. I
had to
clean the hole before the screw would fit, but after doing so the screw
went in smoothly.
What was odd was that the screw came out with a brown material on it
that
looked like a smear of dirty motor oil. It was a zinc-coated steel
screw
that I was using to test (I'd never use a screw like this in service)
--
could it have been something reacting with the zinc?
--chris
Steve Gaarder said:
Okay, I'm having a grand old time trying to figure out what kind of
screws
are needed for a Saft BB600 NiCad. Someone said 10/32; they only go
in
for a turn or two. Someone else said M5; they don't go in at all. M4
just slides in and out. 8/32 works, but seems a little loose. If
there is
such a thing as an M4.5 that might be a good fit. (Interestingly, a
metric thread pitch of .08 is almost exactly the same as 32 threads
per
inch.)
Does anyone know?
thanks,
Steve Gaarder
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> No, first they only measure the output current. Second, if you moved
> that to the input side the freewheel diodes would let their sacred
> smoke out pretty quick. They won't like 1000 amps freewheeling through
> them very long!
>
> Now, could some even better freewheel diode system be installed at the
> motor...
>
> Paul "neon" G.
I know nothing about the internal architecture of a controller, but would a
seperate diode system between controller output and motor be possible? Seems a
waste for me to have several Curtis controllers and not be able to "unlimit"
the motor current.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Shaped like a Smart ForTwo on steroids.
>
> link:
>
>
http://www.jalopnik.com/cars/alternative-energy/indias-revanxg-electric-roadster-040184.php
>
> --
> Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
This is the second time I've seen a new EV with a Sodium Nickel Chloride battery
- are these any better than Lithium chemistries, either in cost or performance?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Also I need a van for most of my commuting (2 big dogs) and I can't really
> afford to give up the space that converting a sports car would require. If
> this conversion goes well, they will see me at the track in my next one..
>
Guess that makes the A-100 *your* best choice! Deciding on a total budget will
narrow down your options, but keep an eye on the ev tradin' post for parts:
http://www.austinev.org/evtradinpost/index.php?method=showhtmllist&list=classifiedscategory&rollid=12
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Now that's what I call REALLY off topic. Talk about shameless! Newbies,
this is NOT normal practice for the list believe me.
Ah, here's my ruler. David, hold out your hand ... <whack> <grin>
Seriously, gang, I hate to be a wet blanket, and this one is off the wall -
but please let's try to keep it on topic. If you have a question this far
out, please don't post it. Instead email some likely list members
PRIVATELY, off list. Thanks.
David
Ye Olde Topic Cop
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> No problem. I think it'd be a great base for an EV. If anyone here gets
> round to doing an EV conversion of this XJ13 I'd be much endebted to you
> if you'd share your experience with the web/list!
> The XJ13 is a very stylish and unique car too. I don't wish to offend
> the Americans on this list but I find many American car designs
> (especially kits and EVs like the T-zero) too be either too
> over-the-top, "bold and brash" or outright illproportioned. There's not
> the same stylish subtlety that you tend to get with many European car
> designs. Of course there are exceptions. Just my personal taste and
> observations. Each to his own.
>
> On that note, I think EVs in general would gain much more widespread
> acceptance if there was more attention paid to design/looks than is
> often the case. Why are so many EVs so butt ugly? I won't name the
> offenders (in my mind) but hopefully perceptions in the marketplace will
> change with the design sensibilities and originality of cars like the
> Venturi Fetish and Toyota Prius (not a great beauty by any stretch but
> certainly original and easy on the eye).
>
> If you haven't guessed already, I'm more of a designer than an engineer!
>
> Just my 2c. Bring on the flames ;-)
>
No flames here! Most U.S. cars don't look very attractive to me, since I'm more
interested in efficiency; just about every new car looks like it'd be more
aerodynamic when driven in reverse [think about it: less parasitic drag from
air intake, slower taper from the highest/widest point to the end of the
vehicle...the Prius might be better off that way]!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
Let's say I have 10 6V Trojans and I want to see if they are all at the same
voltage. If I use your Batt-Bridge concept and make 1 circuit for the first 2
batteries (A and B) adjacent to each other, then make another Batt-Bridge and
use it on batteries B and C, then make another Bat-Bridge and use it on
batteries C and C and so forth? If my thinking is straight, then when all the
led's are green all the batteries are at the same voltage. If there is a
battery that is high or low, then you would have a set of red led's lit (except
at the extreme ends, it would only be 1 red led lit). Does that make sense? If
it does make sense, is there a way to condense the circuits?
Rush
Tucson AZ
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Ds "Dallas One Wire" solution is worth bearing a look by anyone needing
a thermostat that can be built into most anything like battery boxes,
regulator boards, overtemp monitor or fan control for a battery charger etc.
Those things really are amazing and flexable. They even make something
called an I-button that from a cursory look seemed ideal for interfacing
smart chargers, key fob billing for charging scheme, etc. I got up this
morning all full of P&V, was gonna go pick up a programmer kit and a couple
of the Dallas pieces and darned if in all of Phx, I couldn't find a one "in
stock". Guy at my main electronics outlet said that there was little call
for stuff like that anymore, even from the DeVry students!! Gonna have to
order one directly from Dallas I guess.
Lees point about cheap household thermostats at HD or Menards was plan A2 so
I hit the local Depot and Lo, there on the shelf was a Rite-Temp (SKU
781-151) heat only unit that was only 10 bucks. 2/3 the size of a pack of
cigarettes, runs off 24 Vac or can be self contained off 2 AA batts and has
a onboard relay (rated 30V 2A DC or 125Vac @ 1A). Score for me as I am
running a 25w 12 V load!! What is even better for EVers is that once I
opened the case and figured out what the temp sensor was (was expecting a
thermistor but this one looks like a small glass diode) it appears that
there will be no problem extending the sensor thru the back of the case so
this can be mounted on the side of a (battery?) box and sense the
temperature inside the box. Could control a muffin fan directly or relays
for battery heaters, cabin heater etc. And it looks like with a simple
mechanical modification to the knob stop it can go somewhat above 100 Deg.
There is also a trimmer on the board that I am going to investigate to see
if it trims the temp or the hysteresis. Hmm wonder if I can get some design
notes from Rite-Temp? Doubt it, LOL.
And I agree David, it WAS shamefully OT. I will do penance as soon as the
swelling in my knuckles goes down. But it did get me a couple thermostat
ideas and a workable solution to my immediate problem :-). Now for the egg
rotator project.... David Chapman.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone have the specs on the BB600? I couldn't find on the Saft
website. I was wondering if it's 12V and >15ah and lightweight it might be
good on my lawnmower. My 40 lb battery is a bit heavy, makes a 100lb
lawnmower shoving around on a 30% 1/2 acre grade. Is there one for sale?
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVList" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2005 9:34 AM
Subject: Fwd: BB600 screw size?
> --- Steve Gaarder <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Okay, I'm having a grand old time trying to figure out what kind of
screws
> > are needed for a Saft BB600 NiCad. Someone said 10/32; they only go in
> > for a turn or two.
>
> I've had good luck with 10-32. But I did have to run a tap down first to
clean out the threads. I
> didn't remove any metal, just cleaned out the crud. The tap ran in pretty
easily, but a bolt would
> lock right up. This was the case with both Marathon and Saft NiCads. I'm
using .75" length bolt
> with one flat washer and .125" thick bus bar.
>
> Dave Cover
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- "Kirk A. Reinkens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hey Dave, what do you mean by "Before reality set in.."? I'd like to hear a
> little more about that.
Reality for me was just the price tag. I really like the Spyder, but it would
be hard to find a
rolling chassis for less than $10,000 US. And I didn't want to get shut down on
my first project
because of money. I think kit cars are a great way to go if you have the
funding. They are
basically a new car without having to get rid of all the ICE related stuff.
Think of what a nice
installation you can build with a wide open chassis to work with. I'm trying to
find a car that I
can easily build, easily sell. The first one though, is for learning.
My cost so far;
$2500 - Donor vehicle (some money to be recouped selling parts)
500 - ADC 9", 2 contactors, ammeter and shunt, Curtis controller and potbox,
fuses, various cables all from a previous conversion.
400 - Battery pack
203 - Emeter Link 10 from eBay
Yet to go;
Controller - $2400 ? (don't want to be limited by a 400 amp controller)
Charger - 2500 ? (need to charge over 300 volts)
Etc., etc. - ???????
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7969049875
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I couldn't find any reference to it but I only spent a coulple of minutes
reading. LR>.......
Item sent by:
Daryl Oster
ETT, et3, MoPod, "space travel on earth" e-tube
et3@ et3.com :: http://www.et3.com
POB 1423, Crystal River FL 34423-1423
(352) 257-1310
See http://www.v28power.com for a new LiIon battery designed for power
tools. The battery has a 2.5 year warrantee. Milwaukee states that they plan
to leverage this technology to vehicles.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 19 Apr 2005 at 2:43, David Chapman wrote:
> there on the shelf was a Rite-Temp (SKU 781-151)
> heat only unit that was only 10 bucks.
Consider reliability. I used electronic ("digital"?) thermostats for
electric baseboard home heating for a while a few years ago. After having
two units fail in less than 2 years I went back to mechanical thermostats.
I had no more problems after that.
OTOH, for battery box heaters a thermostat failure isn't fatal; it just
means less range in the winter.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
