EV Digest 4388
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Dual Etek Motor Mounting Plan?
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) So Cal Tour de Sol, was Veggy oil not so off topic
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
3) Veggy Oil
by Larry Skidmore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: You need a welder
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: What conversion kits would you be interested in? (long)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) Re: You need a welder
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: What conversion kits would you be interested in? (long)
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: AC gen head off of aux shaft
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: So Cal Tour de Sol, was Veggy oil not so off topic
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: What conversion kits would you be interested in? (long)
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) What conversion kits would you be interested in?
by Jerry McIntire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Is there a prize....
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: 48v charging
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: AC gen head off of aux shaft
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Seeking Controller for '98 Renault Express
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Seeking Controller for '98 Renault Express
by "Paulcompton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Seeking Controller for '98 Renault Express
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:Seeking_Controller_for_'98_Renault_Express?=
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Tour de Sol on the West Coast
by M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Have you thought about 2 sprockets, very close together, with ONE chain
going over the 2 sprockets?
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
Children need love, especially when they do not deserve it.
- Harold S.
Hulbert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hastings" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: Dual Etek Motor Mounting Plan?
I fear my sprocket isn't wide enough and/or my mounts aren't precise
enough. I actually put the sprocket on both shafts and then mounted it to
the dual mount I built. I carefully measured and all seemed to be aligned
together except when I applied about half a dozen 1.2 volt nicads in
parallel to watch it spin I could see and feel it was off just barely but
it was probably more then enough to shorten the lives of my motors.
I really don't want to wear the motor in any way so I probably will go
with two sprockets and two chains for now connected to a jackshaft. I have
most of the parts already for this and it would be quickest and cheapest.
I would like to go to a belt system in the future but in the sake of cost
and keeping progress going for now I'm going to go chains. Thanks for all
the advise.
BadFishRacing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
In my experience, the center of the timing slots is neutral timing. So out
of the box, the motor will perform the same in either direction. I've only
had to adjust the timing a tiny bit to get equal current on both motors.
As far as sharing a single sprocket, as with joining any shafts, any
misalignment will wear on the motor bearings. Just be sure you join the
two motors first, then attach the motors to the mounting brackets. I'm not
sure exactly how critical the shaft alignment will be? Anyone else..
Darin Gilbert
BadFishRacing
-------------- Original message from Mark Hastings : --------------
I am building a small 3 wheel cabin scooter and using dual eteks. My
current
plan is to use both motors facing eachother sharing a single sprocket
over the
end of both shafts (short shaft motor) and a key long enough to go down
both
shafts completely so they are forced to rotate at the same speed and it
will
allow an simpler/lighter drivetrain.
For people more familiar then I with the Etek is their a long term issue
with
doing it this way? One motor going CW and the other CCW would be my main
long
term concern.
I have seen motorcycles with the eteks mounted the same way sharing a
chain and
facing with seperate sproket/chains but I'm expecting to commute on this
so need
something that will last long term.
Thanks for any advice,
Mark Hastings
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 5/25/2005 7:32:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< >HOW CAN WE GET SOMETHING LIKE THE Tour De Soul out
west. anyone interested???
lets put our energy toward this
if its too off topic we can ove it or just use email
untill interest is polled
keith
>>
I think thats a great idea.
The only public ev deal we have in San Diego is the Earth Day at Balboa Park.
That holds absolutely no interest for my students. They thrive on action and
motion and the fair is an idle-fest that bores them to tears and misbehavior.
If we had a bonafide event to work towards each year, interest and
participation would soar and I *might* be able to keep my ev program alive a
while
longer.
Anyone else from Southern California want to step up and start organizing?
Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One of the most promising sources of bio-diesel is solar ponds of high lipid
algea. Rumor has it that Royal Dutch Shell has land or options in the US
Southwest and in Mexico in anticipation of this development. This source has
been extensively researched by DOE et al.
Source is nominally greenhouse gas neutral as it takes a lot of CO2 to grow the
green. Other gases and particulates are not such good news.
Here's your long-range, solar powered vehicle, no vehicle engineering required.
Larry Skidmore
Puebla Mexico
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Someone else mentioned the Miller Welding website, so I looked up the
Miller Welding page
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/basics_hints/
and
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/basics_hints/basics2.html
Nice concise comparison of different types of welding
equipment.
What makes it even better is that the Miller Welding folks agree 100%
with what I have said on this discussion list about the comparative
merits of the different welding methods. :^)
This webpage reminded me of something important that have not emphasized.
The only suitable welding methods for thin sheet metal are MIG and TIG.
This is important for a conversion because you will likely want to weld
something to the body of the car or fabricate something (like the battery
boxes) from sheet metal. Stick, flux-core, and gas welding are unsuitable
for thin sheet (less than 1/8 inch.)
Also, as the Miller page says:
TIG
MIG
Speed very slow very high
Skill
high
low
Cost
high
low
Nice tutorial on MIG welding on the Miller Welding site:
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/basicMIG/index.htm
_
/| Bill "Wisenheimer"
Dube'
\'o.O'
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike ->
http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What about all those great Subaru vehicles being made today? They make some
pretty good style and comfort in a compact sturdy mold. I know that most
don't look at Subaru with much enthusiasm, but they've come a long way in
the last few years and most are relatively small and compact as well as
lightweight.
Jeff
>David Dymaxion wrote:
>Here is an ad hoc list of cars still in production that I think will
>change less rapidly than others:
> Trucks
> Jeeps
> VW Beetle
> Audi TT
> Ford Mustang
>It could be a great thing if you thought towards kitting (or
>publishing detailed plans).
--- Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The topics of conversion over the last few days have got me back to
> thinking about conversion kits again. At shows over the last few
> years
> I have had a dozen or so "checkbook in hand" offers to convert a
> vehicle. These people wanted an EV, but were unable to build a
> "custom"
> conversion (a large percentage were women, interesting enough). I
> had
> to turn them down, since the several hundred hours of time to
> "custom"
> convert a vehicle was beyond their budget or patience.
>
> Most of these potential drivers were just interested in having an
> EV,
> and often even made offers to purchase whatever I was showing.
> I've
> lost track of the number of "handy" people who have been
> interested, but
> lacked the metal fabrication and design skills to do a full
> conversion.
>
> There are a lot of reason why the Volts/Rabbit/Porsche and S10 kits
> are
> pretty much all we have. Cars come in much greater varieties
> today, and
> manufacturers often make radical changes from year to year. Buying
> a
> car to remove and essentially discard a bunch of stuff is never
> going to
> be too cost effective.
>
> Still, I remember the fun of assembling kits, or doing "bolt on"
> mods to
> my car. I know doing custom welding and design are more
> challenging and
> I should feel proud of "doing it all" when making a good
> conversion. In
> the end, I think I've generally received more enjoyment out of the
> "bolt
> in" stuff. Sure it's easier, but it looks good when done, and the
> job
> finishes quicker and I have a lot less frustrating "do it over" and
> "I
> should have done it X" moments. Most people you show the car to do
> not
> really appreciate the extra skill and effort it took to do it from
> scratch.
>
> Anyhow I think my next conversion will be the basis for a kit. The
> goal
> will be a minimal drilling and cutting, bolt in, snap together
> wiring,
> type kit, that can be installed by someone with average auto repair
>
> skills. My standards for a conversion are not quite John Wayland
> "show"
> quality, but I come fairly close. The kit will use standard
> conversion
> components where possible, with mounting adapters and custom
> harnesses
> wherever need to simplify installation.
>
> So ignoring all the reasons why this will not work, excessive cost,
> or
> is just plain a dumb idea:
> ------
> From this year's new car models what would you most want as a new
> EV?
> ------
>
> I have been looking to the economy end of the spectrum for the
> first
> kit. Something with four doors, a low new cost, lightweight with
> enough space for hardware and people. The compact trucks are
> always a
> good choice, but most of manufacturer's do not offer anything more
> than
> two seats in the less than $17k range. (On the plus side the truck
>
> platforms usually undergo slower changes than cars, and are usually
> are
> easier to convert) A truck kit would probably be a future project.
>
> Obviously trying to select one car as "perfect" will be nearly
> impossible but I'm looking for a good compromise choice to get
> going.
>
> My first pick is the Mazda 3, it is fairly roomy for a small car
> and is
> built in conjunction with Volvo atop an excellent platform.
> Available
> in an economy sedan trim for about $14k MSRP and power trim sedan
> and
> wagon versions for about $17k. A/C and electro hydraulic power
> steering
> are standard in the economy trim (unlike the Honda Civic), as are
> few
> neat features like power adjustable pedals. Fuel economy is near
> the
> top of its class, only lagging behind the hybrids and diesels.
> Most
> auto reviews place it in the top of economy car class for handling,
>
> features and build quality.
>
> Parts availability is moderate, Mazda has been sharing a lot of
> parts
> with Ford since their partnership. Mazda is not a struggling
> company
> per se, but they do have one of the lowest sales volumes in the US,
> and
> hence good incentives (0% financing, rebates, and an easy to get
> into
> fleet purchase program). The Mazda 3 is about 1 year old, long
> enough
> to work out the bugs, young enough there should be no major changes
> to
> the platform for a few years. (The dealer said they have only been
> told
> that the AC system will change to a R-134 alternative next year.)
>
> Other contenders might be the radical looking but spacious Scion xB
> and
> xA, the high resale value Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla or from the
> American's the Chevy Aveo or Ford Focus.
>
> So let me know your thoughts and feel free to mail me privately if
> you'd
> like.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I agree 100%. the best way I find to weld thin stuff
is with a small mig machine using .025 wire with
straight CO2 as my shielding gas. most 110 machines
are all you really need for a conversion.
Gadget
--- "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
---------------------------------
Someone else mentioned the Miller Welding website, so
I looked up theMiller Welding page
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/basics_hints/
and
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/basics_hints/basics2.html
Nice concise comparison of different types of
weldingequipment.
What makes it even better is that the Miller Welding
folks agree 100%with what I have said on this
discussion list about the comparativemerits of the
different welding methods. :^)
This webpage reminded me of something important that
have not emphasized.The only suitable welding methods
for thin sheet metal are MIG and TIG.This is important
for a conversion because you will likely want to
weldsomething to the body of the car or fabricate
something (like the batteryboxes) from sheet metal.
Stick, flux-core, and gas welding are unsuitablefor
thin sheet (less than 1/8 inch.)
Also, as the Miller page says:
TIG MIG
Speed very slow very high
Skill high low
Cost high low
Nice tutorial on MIG welding on the Miller Welding
site:
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/basicMIG/index.htm
_/| Bill "Wisenheimer"Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike ->http://www.KillaCycle.com
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All Subaru's are 4 wheel drive. Would the benifit of 4
wheel regen offset the added drag of 4 wheel drive?
I'd like to know. I suppose it would in performance
driving, but not on the highway.
Gadget
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> What about all those great Subaru vehicles being
> made today? They make some
> pretty good style and comfort in a compact sturdy
> mold. I know that most
> don't look at Subaru with much enthusiasm, but
> they've come a long way in
> the last few years and most are relatively small and
> compact as well as
> lightweight.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> >David Dymaxion wrote:
>
> >Here is an ad hoc list of cars still in production
> that I think will
> >change less rapidly than others:
>
> > Trucks
> > Jeeps
> > VW Beetle
> > Audi TT
> > Ford Mustang
>
> >It could be a great thing if you thought towards
> kitting (or
> >publishing detailed plans).
>
> --- Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > The topics of conversion over the last few days
> have got me back to
> > thinking about conversion kits again. At shows
> over the last few
> > years
> > I have had a dozen or so "checkbook in hand"
> offers to convert a
> > vehicle. These people wanted an EV, but were
> unable to build a
> > "custom"
> > conversion (a large percentage were women,
> interesting enough). I
> > had
> > to turn them down, since the several hundred hours
> of time to
> > "custom"
> > convert a vehicle was beyond their budget or
> patience.
> >
> > Most of these potential drivers were just
> interested in having an
> > EV,
> > and often even made offers to purchase whatever I
> was showing.
> > I've
> > lost track of the number of "handy" people who
> have been
> > interested, but
> > lacked the metal fabrication and design skills to
> do a full
> > conversion.
> >
> > There are a lot of reason why the
> Volts/Rabbit/Porsche and S10 kits
> > are
> > pretty much all we have. Cars come in much
> greater varieties
> > today, and
> > manufacturers often make radical changes from year
> to year. Buying
> > a
> > car to remove and essentially discard a bunch of
> stuff is never
> > going to
> > be too cost effective.
> >
> > Still, I remember the fun of assembling kits, or
> doing "bolt on"
> > mods to
> > my car. I know doing custom welding and design
> are more
> > challenging and
> > I should feel proud of "doing it all" when making
> a good
> > conversion. In
> > the end, I think I've generally received more
> enjoyment out of the
> > "bolt
> > in" stuff. Sure it's easier, but it looks good
> when done, and the
> > job
> > finishes quicker and I have a lot less frustrating
> "do it over" and
> > "I
> > should have done it X" moments. Most people you
> show the car to do
> > not
> > really appreciate the extra skill and effort it
> took to do it from
> > scratch.
> >
> > Anyhow I think my next conversion will be the
> basis for a kit. The
> > goal
> > will be a minimal drilling and cutting, bolt in,
> snap together
> > wiring,
> > type kit, that can be installed by someone with
> average auto repair
> >
> > skills. My standards for a conversion are not
> quite John Wayland
> > "show"
> > quality, but I come fairly close. The kit will
> use standard
> > conversion
> > components where possible, with mounting adapters
> and custom
> > harnesses
> > wherever need to simplify installation.
> >
> > So ignoring all the reasons why this will not
> work, excessive cost,
> > or
> > is just plain a dumb idea:
> > ------
> > From this year's new car models what would you
> most want as a new
> > EV?
> > ------
> >
> > I have been looking to the economy end of the
> spectrum for the
> > first
> > kit. Something with four doors, a low new cost,
> lightweight with
> > enough space for hardware and people. The compact
> trucks are
> > always a
> > good choice, but most of manufacturer's do not
> offer anything more
> > than
> > two seats in the less than $17k range. (On the
> plus side the truck
> >
> > platforms usually undergo slower changes than
> cars, and are usually
> > are
> > easier to convert) A truck kit would probably be a
> future project.
> >
> > Obviously trying to select one car as "perfect"
> will be nearly
> > impossible but I'm looking for a good compromise
> choice to get
> > going.
> >
> > My first pick is the Mazda 3, it is fairly roomy
> for a small car
> > and is
> > built in conjunction with Volvo atop an excellent
> platform.
> > Available
> > in an economy sedan trim for about $14k MSRP and
> power trim sedan
> > and
> > wagon versions for about $17k. A/C and electro
> hydraulic power
> > steering
> > are standard in the economy trim (unlike the Honda
> Civic), as are
> > few
> > neat features like power adjustable pedals. Fuel
> economy is near
> > the
> > top of its class, only lagging behind the hybrids
> and diesels.
> > Most
> > auto reviews place it in the top of economy car
> class for handling,
> >
> > features and build quality.
> >
> > Parts availability is moderate, Mazda has been
> sharing a lot of
> > parts
> > with Ford since their partnership. Mazda is not a
> struggling
> > company
> > per se, but they do have one of the lowest sales
> volumes in the US,
> > and
> > hence good incentives (0% financing, rebates, and
> an easy to get
> > into
> > fleet purchase program). The Mazda 3 is about 1
> year old, long
> > enough
> > to work out the bugs, young enough there should be
> no major changes
> > to
> > the platform for a few years. (The dealer said
> they have only been
> > told
> > that the AC system will change to a R-134
> alternative next year.)
> >
> > Other contenders might be the radical looking but
> spacious Scion xB
> > and
> > xA, the high resale value Honda Civic, Toyota
> Corolla or from the
> > American's the Chevy Aveo or Ford Focus.
> >
> > So let me know your thoughts and feel free to mail
> me privately if
> > you'd
> > like.
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have the gen head and the PFC20 I was planning the
> same type of setup,
> but am shakey on the details. I would appreciate
> any details you are
> willing to part with.
I have the gen head directly coupled to the motor. I
had originally planned on having the gen controlled by
a big relay but after much thinking I think it would
be better to just have it hooked to the PFC 20
directly and only have it regen by turning up the
current control. That should take care of any big
spikes from switching a relay. In theory the PFC would
be ready to go just waiting for a signal from the
slide pot to up the current. I'm hoping that the
amount of resistance required to power up the PFC
would be more than offset by the amount of power that
I will be able recoup through regen.
Gadget
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd love to see some thing like that on the left coast
here, I wish I had the time right now. I could help
facilitate and get publicity for an event like this.
I'll ask around and see who I might know who would
like to help organize something like this.
Gadget
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a message dated 5/25/2005 7:32:39 PM Pacific
> Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> << >HOW CAN WE GET SOMETHING LIKE THE Tour De Soul
> out
> west. anyone interested???
> lets put our energy toward this
> if its too off topic we can ove it or just use
> email
> untill interest is polled
> keith
> >>
> I think thats a great idea.
> The only public ev deal we have in San Diego is the
> Earth Day at Balboa Park.
> That holds absolutely no interest for my students.
> They thrive on action and
> motion and the fair is an idle-fest that bores them
> to tears and misbehavior.
> If we had a bonafide event to work towards each
> year, interest and
> participation would soar and I *might* be able to
> keep my ev program alive a while
> longer.
> Anyone else from Southern California want to step up
> and start organizing?
> Ben
>
>
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Farver and I were just discussing Subarus this evening, actually. What's
interesting is that their entire product line seems to ultimately draw its
lineage from the same roots -- the Legacy sedan. All their cars have 4
doors and AWD, and seem to be more or less a variation on the same design.
If the similarities are more than skin-deep, then this could be a huge
point in favor of working with Subarus. On the other hand, there isn't
exactly a "cheap" model, with the most basic Impreza 2.5 RS starting at
$18K. The next step is an Outback for $19K. On the other hand, an AustinEV
member (Aaron Choate) has a Forrester, and I've been impressed by its
quality.
One last note -- I'm not sure how much the all-wheel drive would impact
efficiency. Enough to worry about?
--chris
[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
> What about all those great Subaru vehicles being made today? They make
> some
> pretty good style and comfort in a compact sturdy mold. I know that most
> don't look at Subaru with much enthusiasm, but they've come a long way in
> the last few years and most are relatively small and compact as well as
> lightweight.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>>David Dymaxion wrote:
>
>>Here is an ad hoc list of cars still in production that I think will
>>change less rapidly than others:
>
>> Trucks
>> Jeeps
>> VW Beetle
>> Audi TT
>> Ford Mustang
>
>>It could be a great thing if you thought towards kitting (or
>>publishing detailed plans).
>
> --- Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> The topics of conversion over the last few days have got me back to
>> thinking about conversion kits again. At shows over the last few
>> years
>> I have had a dozen or so "checkbook in hand" offers to convert a
>> vehicle. These people wanted an EV, but were unable to build a
>> "custom"
>> conversion (a large percentage were women, interesting enough). I
>> had
>> to turn them down, since the several hundred hours of time to
>> "custom"
>> convert a vehicle was beyond their budget or patience.
>>
>> Most of these potential drivers were just interested in having an
>> EV,
>> and often even made offers to purchase whatever I was showing.
>> I've
>> lost track of the number of "handy" people who have been
>> interested, but
>> lacked the metal fabrication and design skills to do a full
>> conversion.
>>
>> There are a lot of reason why the Volts/Rabbit/Porsche and S10 kits
>> are
>> pretty much all we have. Cars come in much greater varieties
>> today, and
>> manufacturers often make radical changes from year to year. Buying
>> a
>> car to remove and essentially discard a bunch of stuff is never
>> going to
>> be too cost effective.
>>
>> Still, I remember the fun of assembling kits, or doing "bolt on"
>> mods to
>> my car. I know doing custom welding and design are more
>> challenging and
>> I should feel proud of "doing it all" when making a good
>> conversion. In
>> the end, I think I've generally received more enjoyment out of the
>> "bolt
>> in" stuff. Sure it's easier, but it looks good when done, and the
>> job
>> finishes quicker and I have a lot less frustrating "do it over" and
>> "I
>> should have done it X" moments. Most people you show the car to do
>> not
>> really appreciate the extra skill and effort it took to do it from
>> scratch.
>>
>> Anyhow I think my next conversion will be the basis for a kit. The
>> goal
>> will be a minimal drilling and cutting, bolt in, snap together
>> wiring,
>> type kit, that can be installed by someone with average auto repair
>>
>> skills. My standards for a conversion are not quite John Wayland
>> "show"
>> quality, but I come fairly close. The kit will use standard
>> conversion
>> components where possible, with mounting adapters and custom
>> harnesses
>> wherever need to simplify installation.
>>
>> So ignoring all the reasons why this will not work, excessive cost,
>> or
>> is just plain a dumb idea:
>> ------
>> From this year's new car models what would you most want as a new
>> EV?
>> ------
>>
>> I have been looking to the economy end of the spectrum for the
>> first
>> kit. Something with four doors, a low new cost, lightweight with
>> enough space for hardware and people. The compact trucks are
>> always a
>> good choice, but most of manufacturer's do not offer anything more
>> than
>> two seats in the less than $17k range. (On the plus side the truck
>>
>> platforms usually undergo slower changes than cars, and are usually
>> are
>> easier to convert) A truck kit would probably be a future project.
>>
>> Obviously trying to select one car as "perfect" will be nearly
>> impossible but I'm looking for a good compromise choice to get
>> going.
>>
>> My first pick is the Mazda 3, it is fairly roomy for a small car
>> and is
>> built in conjunction with Volvo atop an excellent platform.
>> Available
>> in an economy sedan trim for about $14k MSRP and power trim sedan
>> and
>> wagon versions for about $17k. A/C and electro hydraulic power
>> steering
>> are standard in the economy trim (unlike the Honda Civic), as are
>> few
>> neat features like power adjustable pedals. Fuel economy is near
>> the
>> top of its class, only lagging behind the hybrids and diesels.
>> Most
>> auto reviews place it in the top of economy car class for handling,
>>
>> features and build quality.
>>
>> Parts availability is moderate, Mazda has been sharing a lot of
>> parts
>> with Ford since their partnership. Mazda is not a struggling
>> company
>> per se, but they do have one of the lowest sales volumes in the US,
>> and
>> hence good incentives (0% financing, rebates, and an easy to get
>> into
>> fleet purchase program). The Mazda 3 is about 1 year old, long
>> enough
>> to work out the bugs, young enough there should be no major changes
>> to
>> the platform for a few years. (The dealer said they have only been
>> told
>> that the AC system will change to a R-134 alternative next year.)
>>
>> Other contenders might be the radical looking but spacious Scion xB
>> and
>> xA, the high resale value Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla or from the
>> American's the Chevy Aveo or Ford Focus.
>>
>> So let me know your thoughts and feel free to mail me privately if
>> you'd
>> like.
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark, the Mazda 3 sounds good to me. I agree with the economy car
idea, and not having to compete with the high resale of Honda or Toyota
is smart. My plea: be sure the kit can go in a station wagon. Most
useful small car in my mind, in fact, I wouldn't buy anything else.
Jerry
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is there a prize for convincing the most people at a single employer to
convert to EV driving, a third person at Credence, in portland, just
bought his first EV today. Hurray!
So now we have myself with a Renault Lectric Leopard I call "Lektron"
and two of my employees, Dan, with a Cloud Geo Metro conversion
and Tim with a pickup called "MegaVolt" ...
We would have two in our California office as well, but one was a EV-1
victim. Now he drives a Natural Gas Civic and the other drove a 'Smart"
(I think) as a timeshare from the train station, another dead program.
--
Tony
"Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
http://www.notebene.net/ev/lektron.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1. A high rate initial charge current is recommended by some manufacturers
but not others. You did not state the brand and model of battery so we would
have to guess if 10 amps is appropriate for your circumstances.
2. Some batteries respond very well to slow charging. You may have some of
these batteries. On the other hand, the slow charger may have been installed
because of cost.
3. If all the regs are blinking, they are doing their job. You can verify
that by measuring the voltage on each battery when the reg blinks. A charger
that backs off properly will taper to a nice low finishing current and have
ALL the regs blinking.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gravity Girl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 11:11 AM
Subject: 48v charging
>
> Questions about charging for my EVT-
>
> I removed the stock charger that came with the EVT, not knowing if it
> is smart or not (my guess is that it isn't that smart, if at all) and
> replaced with with a Soneil 48v charger. I also put on 4 Rudman regs to
> make sure the batteries stay in balance during the charge.
>
> A member on another list I am on (for e-mopeds) told me she had heard
> that the Soneil was good for a top-off charge, but that the batteries
> would last longer with a minimum 10A initial charge. They recommended
> the Zivan NG1 to provide this. Since I can charge my EVT all day while
> at work and all night while at home, speed isn't so much of an issue.
>
> I have noticed that the regs only pulse for a very short period of time
> during charging, my guess is because the Soneil takes things nice and
> slow with a very low current finish.
>
> So, questions:
>
> Will starting a 48v charge on SLA batteries at 10A increase battery
> life?
> Is the soneil under-charging?
> Should I add a second soneil in parallel to increase charge current?
> Do the regs sound like they are behaving properly? (or have I messed up
> the installation somehow)
>
> I forgot to bring my dvm to work today to check the battery levels at
> full charge. I imagine that will help answer question #2.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Cristin
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> La Bola Ocho Magica dice: SI
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 5/26/05, Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> --- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > I have the gen head and the PFC20 I was planning the
> > same type of setup,
> > but am shakey on the details. I would appreciate
> > any details you are
> > willing to part with.
>
>
> I have the gen head directly coupled to the motor. I
> had originally planned on having the gen controlled by
> a big relay but after much thinking I think it would
> be better to just have it hooked to the PFC 20
> directly and only have it regen by turning up the
> current control. That should take care of any big
> spikes from switching a relay. In theory the PFC would
> be ready to go just waiting for a signal from the
> slide pot to up the current. I'm hoping that the
> amount of resistance required to power up the PFC
> would be more than offset by the amount of power that
> I will be able recoup through regen.
I'd be interested to know how it works out, but are you going to get
much braking force? I imagine it would be more like engine braking,
which is fine, but perhaps it's not worth going to the bother of
rigging up a potentiometer on the brake pedal. And, won't it cut out
rather abruptly as the speed slows and the voltage drops below the
PFC's input limit?
I guess I'm just spoilt, my EV regens something like 150A and keeps
working down to "stopped" - sep-ex motor and control :)
Good luck.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.elektrosistem.com/ make a 96V sep-ex control.
It might be OK on a 108V nicad system, if anything will be a problem I
think that the field current is a bit lower than this unit expects. A
resitive load in parallel might be required.
On the other hand, Philippe (link to his website is in the album of
the Express mentioned below) might be able to find you a replacement
controller.
Good luck
Evan
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
On 5/26/05, Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I received this email from Norway today. Any list members have any helpful
> suggestions for this fellow. His email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Roderick
>
>
> Hello, my name is Bjørn Olav Skjervheim and I live in Norway.
>
> I have purchased a defective Electric car "without the original controller".
> It's a Renault Express 1998 model and comes with an ABB Separately Exited
> (DC) motor marked 16 Kw nominal and maximum 21Kw at 108 Volts. It seems to
> be a problem so get a substitute controller to suit this motor and I wonder
> if you could help me?
>
> I've spoken to a Renault Express owner in Sweden and he estimated the field
> current to maximum 8 Amps. This corresponds good with the gauge of the field
> cables, approximately 1, 5 mm sq. Curtis in Sweden did not recommend any of
> their Sep Ex controllers so now I don't know where to go to get me one if at
> all possible?
>
> Here is a similar car: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/331.html
>
> Regards
> Bjørn Olav
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.17 - Release Date: 5/25/2005
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
-- Original message --
From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thursday 26 May 2005 10:27:36
Subject: Re: Seeking Controller for '98 Renault Express
> http://www.elektrosistem.com/ make a 96V sep-ex control.
> It might be OK on a 108V nicad system, if anything will be a problem I
> think that the field current is a bit lower than this unit expects. A
> resitive load in parallel might be required.
I remember Rob at AVT having this problem with a Zapi controller, even after
going back to Electrofit Zapi several times for re-programming. It' almost
certainly possible to reconnect the field coils in parallel to better suit the
available controllers.
Paul Compton
www.sciroccoev.co.uk
www.morini-mania.co.uk
___________________________________________
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:17 AM 26/05/05 +0100, Paul Compton wrote:
-- Original message --
From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> http://www.elektrosistem.com/ make a 96V sep-ex control.
> It might be OK on a 108V nicad system, if anything will be a problem I
> think that the field current is a bit lower than this unit expects. A
> resitive load in parallel might be required.
I remember Rob at AVT having this problem with a Zapi controller, even
after going back to Electrofit Zapi several times for re-programming. It'
almost certainly possible to reconnect the field coils in parallel to
better suit the available controllers.
I know this would be expensive, but how about a pair of Zilla Z1k
controllers, one for the field, one for the armature?
Otmar, I believe that you can run a pair together for dual motors, would it
be horrendous to rewrite the code so that a pair can behave in a suitable
manner for a sepex?
I don't know if the regen current across the armature controller would be a
problem?
Alternatively someone may be game enough to build a unit that monitors
motor RPMs and throttle position and generates two throttle command
voltages for two seperate hairballs.
Just throwing up an idea...
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello,
I'm the fellow at [EMAIL PROTECTED] who put the car on the EValbum:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/331.html
There is still few parts left out of theses renault express cars, controller,
motor , charger... no problem.
contact-me off list, we will arrange your problem.
I think it's simpler/cheaper to use same genuine parts than redesigning the
whole system.
I can reprogramm the controller to nederland or german language(actually french)
Philippe
---------- Initial Header -----------
>From : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To : <[email protected]>
Cc :
Date : Wed, 25 May 2005 16:09:58 -0700
Subject : Seeking Controller for '98 Renault Express
I received this email from Norway today. Any list members have any helpful
suggestions for this fellow. His email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Thanks for any help,
Roderick
Hello, my name is Bjørn Olav Skjervheim and I live in Norway.
I have purchased a defective Electric car "without the original controller".
It's a Renault Express 1998 model and comes with an ABB Separately Exited
(DC) motor marked 16 Kw nominal and maximum 21Kw at 108 Volts. It seems to
be a problem so get a substitute controller to suit this motor and I wonder
if you could help me?
I've spoken to a Renault Express owner in Sweden and he estimated the field
current to maximum 8 Amps. This corresponds good with the gauge of the field
cables, approximately 1, 5 mm sq. Curtis in Sweden did not recommend any of
their Sep Ex controllers so now I don't know where to go to get me one if at
all possible?
Here is a similar car: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/331.html
Regards
Bjørn Olav
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.17 - Release Date: 5/25/2005
************************ ADSL JUSQU'A 8 MEGA + 3 MOIS DE TELEPHONE GRATUIT
************************
L'ultra haut d�bit � 15EUR/mois seulement ! Et vous t�l�phonez gratuitement en
France vers les postes fixes,
hors num�ros sp�ciaux pendant 3 mois.
Pour profiter de cette offre exceptionnelle, cliquez ici :
http://register.tiscali.fr/adsl/ (voir conditions sur le site)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 19:10:19 -0700 (PDT)
> From: keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Veggy oil not so off topic
> HOW CAN WE GET SOMETHING LIKE THE Tour De Soul out west.
> anyone interested???
> lets put our energy toward this
> if its too off topic we can ove it or just use email
> untill interest is polled
> keith
Great Idea! I suggest you learn from those who have done it.
The first step is to get a sense of how the east coast Tour de Sol is run.
The most recent rules are available as a PDF at
http://www.nesea.org/transportation/tour/2004rules.html
http://www.nesea.org/transportation/tour/2004_Rules.pdf
(2.5 megabytes)
You should also call NESEA and get copies of recent driver's manuals and
recent staff's manuals. These show the level of detail needed to keep a
multi-day, multi-location event on track, especially when you need to
accomodate 30 or so volunteers, businesses and sponsors who want to meet the
public, 40+ entant vehicles, upwards of 200 team members, many kilo-watts of
charging in the outdoors, non-gasoline fuels, community involvement, school
visits, unpredicatable weather, and ... well needless to say, the list goes
on.
Since the Tour de Sol is an "open course" competition, meaning it is run on
public highways, legality and safety are prime concerns. Since it is an "open
to the public" event, safety and clarity of purpose are prime concerns. Since
there are lots of "apples competing with pineapples" (the solar car vs. the
monster truck) aspects to the competition, fairness is a prime concern.
The fact that the Tour has run for 17 years, and the nature of the competition
has changed every one of those years says that the event and the people who
have run it have had to adapt over the years. Some see it as changing the
rules arbitrarily, e.g. 3 wheeled vehicles are not allowed to autocross. But
there is a reason, namely too many near-disaster events with 3-wheeled vehicles
in past autocrosses. (For many, the the Tour de Sol is their first autocross,
and they don't understand their vehicles well enough for that very demanding
test.)
Also get some recent Tour de Sol programs. Again, to see a successful example.
The TdS happens because a lot of people put in a lot of work, stay focused, and
learn from the past. Good Luck!
Let me know if you need a reporter!
--
Mike Bianchi
Foveal Systems
973 822-2085
www.TourDeSol.org
www.Foveal.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html
--- End Message ---
