EV Digest 4412

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Link10 1000amp reading
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Rabbit front springs
        by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: Rabbit front springs
        by Andrew Letton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Toyota Prius Drive Train
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: Rabbit front springs
        by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Link10 1000amp reading
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: OT:   Virus in message??????RE: EV digest 4408
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: Argggggggg. Another Wrecked electric vehicle
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  9) Re: Argggggggg. Another Wrecked electric vehicle
        by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) dc/dc converter
        by "ohnojoe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: Argggggggg. Another Wrecked electric vehicle
        by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: Amp Head, Heads Up
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Amp Head, Heads Up
        by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Seattle City Light focuses on plug-in hybrids
        by "Peri Hartman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: Argggggggg. Another Wrecked electric vehicle
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Amp Head, Heads Up
        by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: The Discovery EV program
        by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Alfa Romeo Batteries
        by "Brian M. Sutin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Discovery feedback Thank You
        by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Another e-meter question...Lee?
        by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) RE: Another e-meter question...Lee?
        by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: Rabbit front springs
        by John Martin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Optimas, 31 or 34 ?
        by John Martin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) Re: Portland Visit
        by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Re: Rabbit front springs
        by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: Discovery Channel to film NEDRA Power of DC
        by Lowell Simmons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Ryan Bohm wrote:
> With the "Choice" link10, how do you accomodate a 1000 amp reading?

The standard E-meter / Link-10 uses a 500amp 50mv shunt, and the maximum
current it will display is 511 amps.

The optional "1000 amp" version still uses a 500amp 50mv shunt, but they
supply a much larger, higher-power version that can withstand up to 1000
amps. Yes, it has a 100mv drop at 1000 amps -- notice it will be
producing 0.1v x 1000a = 100 watts of heat!

All they changed inside the meter itself is the software, to allow it to
read to 1022 amps max.

> One last question: does the shunt *have* to be at traction pack ground?
> It will get it's millivolt drop anywhere in the pack, but the e-meter
> expects it to be at ground, right?  It would sure work better in my
> system if it didn't have to be at ground.

Yes, it *has* to be in the negative leg of the traction pack! Putting it
in the postive leg will *destroy* the E-meter / Link 10!
-- 
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
        -- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 12:22 AM
Subject: Re: Rabbit front springs


> Don
>
> Thanks for the lead.
>
> I will order springs from them. I will be adding about 500 lbs of
> batteries up front. Do I ask for 200 lbs, 300 lbs or what over stock
> springs.
>
> John
>
> Hi John;

   I had them do a set for MY Rabbit. I asked for 300 lbs more lift as I
stuffed 6 T 105 batteries up front as well as a ADC 9" motor and Rapter
controller. The OTHER 14 went in back!You may not need so much lift? I built
my Bunny for range 20 T 105's or T 145's for extended range.Maybe they would
remember my order?? Using BMW springs shocks in back.

   Seeya

   Bob
> On Jun 3, 2005, at 10:39 AM, Don Cameron wrote:
>
> > John, for my New Beetle conversion I had springs made by Coil Spring
> > Specialists in Kansas for approx $170.
> >
> > Don
> >
> >
> > Victoria, BC, Canada
> >
> > See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> > www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of John Martin
> > Sent: June 3, 2005 10:34 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Rabbit front springs
> >
> > Hi folks
> >
> > I'm still gathering parts for my 83 Rabbit GTI conversion. But I'm
> > having a
> > problem finding front springs that will carry the weight of 7 Yellowtop
> > Optimas.  ElectroAuto has springs for 8, 6 volt batteries, much
> > heavier than
> > 7 Optimas. Any suggestions would be helpful. This is really holding me
> > back.
> >
> > John in San Francisco
> >
>
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John-
When I ordered springs from CSS, they wanted to know how much I needed to increase the ride height and they wanted to borrow one of the stock springs. So... You should measure the stock ride height (assuming you want to maintain stock height), go ahead and do the conversion, then measure the converted height to be able to give them they number they want.
Good luck.
Andrew

John Martin wrote:
Don

Thanks for the lead.

I will order springs from them. I will be adding about 500 lbs of batteries up front. Do I ask for 200 lbs, 300 lbs or what over stock springs.

John


On Jun 3, 2005, at 10:39 AM, Don Cameron wrote:

John, for my New Beetle conversion I had springs made by Coil Spring
Specialists in Kansas for approx $170.

Don


Victoria, BC, Canada

See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John Martin
Sent: June 3, 2005 10:34 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Rabbit front springs

Hi folks

I'm still gathering parts for my 83 Rabbit GTI conversion. But I'm having a
problem finding front springs that will carry the weight of 7 Yellowtop
Optimas. ElectroAuto has springs for 8, 6 volt batteries, much heavier than 7 Optimas. Any suggestions would be helpful. This is really holding me back.

John in San Francisco





--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 3 Jun 2005 at 21:23, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Does anyone think there is a possibility that a better and more 
> efficient transmission drive system than the Toyota Prius would be 
> possible ... It would seem that if the internal combustion engine 
> had a full range of its torque curve by having various gears ...

Sorry to jump in here, but folks, please don't reply to this message on the 
list.  Anyone who wants to reply, please contact the poster directly by 
private email.   

The reason is that the EVDL really isn't an appropriate place to discuss the 
fine points of the Prius drive system.  There are much better places for 
that - several Yahoo groups are entirely devoted to the Prius, and there are 
at least two forums (the one I'm more familiar with is priuschat.com).   

One exception: there's an effort to make the 2G Prius a true hybrid by 
allowing it to be charged from an external electrical source ("PHEV" and 
similar labels are applied to this). Unless many of the list members object, 
I think this would be 100% in line with the EV list's charter.  

David Roden
EV List Assistant Administrator


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:33 AM 6/3/2005, you wrote:
Hi folks

I'm still gathering parts for my 83 Rabbit GTI conversion. But I'm having a problem finding front springs that will carry the weight of 7 Yellowtop Optimas.


The stock springs will work just fine. You are removing the engine and the radiator. The 7 Optimas weigh 294 pounds. This is about the same weight as the engine and radiator.

        If you want to pick it up 3/4" or so, use Cabriolet springs.

My Wabbit has stock springs all the way around. It has 735 pounds of batteries all together. The car sits about an inch lower than stock.

        I put in after market sway bars so it would handle better.

   _ /|        Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
  \'o.O'     <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
       U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You can put the shunt anywhere in the pack wiring. The only problems are:

1) The 12 volt supply voltage needs to be referenced to the black wire. With
an isolated 12 volt supply this is not a problem.
2) The black wire must be connected to side of the shunt most toward the
negative terminal of the load. If the shunt is in the middle of the pack,
the voltage reading on the emeter will show the voltage of only the top half
of the pack. If the shunt is in the positive lead from the pack, the blue
wire can only be connected to the same place as the black wire making the
meter continuously indicate zero volts making the meter considerably less
than intended.

If you want to read amps only (no volts), you may install the shunt in the
positive wire. I would much rather put it in the negative wire and make it
operate as intended.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 11:35 PM
Subject: Re: Link10 1000amp reading


> Ryan Bohm wrote:

> > One last question: does the shunt *have* to be at traction pack ground?
> > It will get it's millivolt drop anywhere in the pack, but the e-meter
> > expects it to be at ground, right?  It would sure work better in my
> > system if it didn't have to be at ground.
>
> Yes, it *has* to be in the negative leg of the traction pack! Putting it
> in the postive leg will *destroy* the E-meter / Link 10!
> -- 
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes also reported getting a malware flag from Earthlink.  Their 
rationale appears to me to be (at best) cryptic, but who am I to say?  

Regardless, I've not been able to find any messages transmitted from the EV 
list which might be carrying a virus or worm load.  Anyone who has, please 
forward it (or them) to me with all headers intact.  

On a related matter, SJSU's system gurus notified me today that they've 
solved the problems with the listserver's attachment stripper.  These 
problems caused it to snarf up huge quantities of cpu cycles, so they had to 
disable it a couple of months ago.  

They have thus reinstated (or soon will be reinstating) attachment stripping 
for the EV list.  That should put us back to high security against malware, 
instead of the medium security we had with just virus scanning.  

If you have a binary file (picture, pdf document, spreadsheet, word 
processor document, program, zip archive, etc.) that you want to share with 
the list, please don't try to send it as an attachment.  Instead, post it on 
a web site or public ftp server, and email the list with the URL or address.

Thanks!


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me.  To 
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Still no details, but here is an official link.
http://www.katu.com/sports/story.asp?ID=77488

On 6/1/05, Alan Batie alan-at-batie.org |vehicle/1.0-Allow|
<...> wrote:
> There was a news report Monday night about an accident at Portland
> International Raceway "electric car races" which sent someone to the
> hospital.  I haven't seen anything here and was wondering if anyone knew
> what the story was?
> 
> 
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:46 PM -0700 6/3/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Still no details, but here is an official link.
http://www.katu.com/sports/story.asp?ID=77488

Looks to me like an electrathon vehicle in the video but it's real hard to tell since they use "windblows media slayer" to show it.

Sure enough, http://www.portlandraceway.com/schedule.asp#May shows that Monday was the last day of some Electrathon America Races.

Forget the car, it can be rebuilt!
I hope that the person injured is recovering well.
--
-Otmar-

http://www.CafeElectric.com/  Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914  My electric 914

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have some questions concerning dc/dc converters.  

I have two ev that I have been fixing up slow but sure they are coming
around. In fact, I drove my S-10 around the block the other day.  My Geo
Tracker I had been driving to work every day for about 3 months until the 12
volt meter started to show something other than 14 volts like a rock. ( I
thought it was busted and stuck on 14) 

 

The Tracker has a Curtis dc/dc converter rated for max input of 96 volts.
The traction pack is 120 volts. However, the converter was hooked up with
the positive on the fuse for the 2 gage wire that connected 8 of the
traction batteries in the rear of the car to 2 of the batteries in the front
of the car and the negative input was connected to line side of the primary
contactor. Also the converter's green light was always on.  

 

On thing I did was to move the negative input to the load side of the
contactor. So the negative would not complete the connection unless the 12
volt system was turned on.   Once I did that the 12 volt gage read
backwards.

 

I also checked the fuse on the converter which was blown.  In fact I can't
stop the fuse from blowing.

 

The output is wired so the positive is spliced into the switched wiring e.g.
the same wire that turns on the vacuum pump.  The negative output is run
directly to the negative of the 12 volt battery.  I would think that this
set up would turn the dc/dc converter's green light on and off with the car.
But as I said before once I hook up the outputs on the dc/dc converter, the
green light is always on.

 

I tried to test to find out which side was blown put the bottom line was the
when the output was disconnected zero voltage was coming out of the
converter. 

 

Finally, I had been changing the input of the charger so that I got a
complete charge.  I was told that the Curtis converter does not do well with
any input over the rated 96 volts.  I took the converter out and I am
resigned to getting a new one. 

 

Can any one recommend a dc/dc converter.

 

Does the wiring to the fuse on the traction pack really limit the voltage to
the 8 batteries in the back of the car (8 x 12 =96). I did take readings and
the voltage at the input side of the converter was about 105-111 volts.
Hence it seems to be ok. 

 

Is there any way to repair this converter.  With it sealed up so well I'll
probably have to use a hammer on it to fix. And as my Dad said if a hammer
doesn't fix it get a bigger hammer. 

 

The S-10 has a DCP converter.  Before I got the truck the owner set it out
to get cleaned but was still having problems with it.  The 12 volt battery
is not hooked up right now.  The converter has a 120 input and the out put
is positive tied into a switched wire but the negative was run to ground and
not back to the battery's negative post.  The negative wire also was
shorting out ( the relay would click on and off with a jiggle) one of the
brass colored relay switches. ( Yes I know I should now what the switch is
but I just got the truck back last weekend)  I believe that may be one cause
as to why the 12 volt was discharging.

 

I tried to find a wiring diagram for the dcp converter but I can't find this
or any other converter on the DCP web site.  Has DCP stopped making them?
Can I run the negative output from the converter right to the negative post
of the battery.  The generic wring diagrams I was access to seem to show
that this would be ok.

 

As always thanks for your input.

Joe

 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 3:10 AM
Subject: Re: Argggggggg. Another Wrecked electric vehicle


> At 11:46 PM -0700 6/3/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >Still no details, but here is an official link.
> >http://www.katu.com/sports/story.asp?ID=77488
>
> Looks to me like an electrathon vehicle in the video but it's real
> hard to tell since they use "windblows media slayer" to show it.
>   Hi All;

    Ya mean Electrathon stuff goes fast enough to get hurt in? Was, am
worried that John Wayland coulda been involved? HE goes fast enough to do
damage! J.W. are you OK, You are the only guy I know that races at PIR??!!
YOU may have the story?

   Seeya

  Bob
> Sure enough, http://www.portlandraceway.com/schedule.asp#May shows
> that Monday was the last day of some Electrathon America Races.
>
> Forget the car, it can be rebuilt!
> I hope that the person injured is recovering well.
> -- 
> -Otmar-
>
> http://www.CafeElectric.com/  Home of the Zilla.
> http://www.evcl.com/914  My electric 914
>
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Guys, guys guys(and gals) Success/failure is relative. and as racing goes, under deadline, that was a resounding success. Especially the Gadget assisted save in the pits that allowed another run. The thing that struck me was how much we subconsciously associate sound with speed. Even when GP did a 14 second 1/4 it looked slow on camera, only when next to an ICE making all it's noise do we have a point of reference. My friend use to call a good exhaust system "psychological horsepower".

What I don't understand is what OEM gear set on earth costs 5K? a whole G-force tranny can be had for that, wasn't GP's tranny an OEM unit? Shirroco?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: Amp Head, Heads Up


>       Guys, guys guys(and gals)  Success/failure is relative. and as
> racing goes, under deadline, that was a resounding success. Especially
> the Gadget assisted save in the pits that allowed another run.
>       The thing that struck me was how much we subconsciously associate
> sound with speed.  Even when GP did a 14 second 1/4 it looked slow on
> camera, only when next to an ICE making all it's noise do we have a
> point of reference. My friend use to call a good exhaust system
> "psychological horsepower".
>  Hi Jeff;

     Good point! You hear the top fuel guyz run, it shakes you inside it's
SO loud! like a Cape Canavernal launch. Yiou guyz that have seen those know
what I mean. On the RR folks think Diseasels are more powerful than
Electrics, listen to all the NOISE of the diesel. Electrics just sing along,
happy hum of traction motors. The only indication that it is working hard is
the pinned ampmeters!and 0 to 80 in one minute-Acelas's times, I don't have
a way to tell a quarter mile, on the RR line, no noise, it just GOES!Like
the MAX in Portland.
> What I don't understand is what  OEM gear set on earth costs 5K? a whole
> G-force tranny can be had for that, wasn't GP's tranny an OEM unit?
> Shirroco?

     I THOUGHT that GP's tranny was setup for racing? Stock VW trannys won't
do for long, my Rabbit's getting noisy, a tic tic tic from SOMEWHERE in the
damn drive train, no NOT the CV joints, when I pull away.Already replaced
one that sounded like a milling machine, the 5 speed. I think the increased
torque of the motor kills them, and the heavier car, too.There are plenty of
Rabbit trannies to be had, so it isn't a big deal to me. If I had a stronger
clutch I could bust them, too,with my T Rex! Getting to work EVery day is my
thing, so I overlook a bit of clutch slip, in the Daily Drive.Masybe GP
should go direct drive? It COULD get into the 100 mile club, it was damn
close! IF it doesn't break stuff. As ya said, it doesn't SOUND fast, it
ghosts down the track, like a good EV should. That appeal to most of us.
Maybe fitting a racer with a Wayland Signiture sound system and play a sound
YOU like. I think a GG-1 E lokie at full volume would sound cool at the
Races,the trademark 25 hz hum, gear and circuit breaker sounds as it
launched. Or A Concorde taking off or a Top Fuel dragster? Nah! TOO noisy!
You can choose your sounds!Only with EV's!

   Seeya at Power of DC!

   Bob
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---

Saturday, June 4, 2005
City Light focuses on plug-in hybrids
Utility at seminar will look at offering incentives for cars

By BILL VIRGIN
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER REPORTER

You wouldn't think hybrid-power cars would need incentives to encourage consumers to buy them, nor might you think Seattle City Light would be looking for ways to increase demand for electricity.

But the municipal utility is co-sponsoring a two-day seminar next week on whether it ought to offer incentives for purchases of gasoline-electric vehicles, and whether encouraging such purchases would help City Light.

One of the speakers scheduled for the event is Roger Duncan, deputy general manager of Austin Energy, the municipal electric utility that serves the Texas capital.

The Austin City Council recently passed a resolution to set up an incentive program for hybrid vehicles; Austin Energy hopes cities such as Seattle will follow suit.

Duncan said the vehicles Austin has in mind are not the currently available hybrids such as the Toyota Prius and Honda Civic Hybrid. Those vehicles have on-board systems, such as regenerative braking, for recharging batteries.

Instead, the focus is on the next-stage technology, "plug-in hybrids," in which on-board batteries can be recharged by plugging the car into the same electricity grid that powers a home.

Duncan said such cars would have increased battery storage capacity compared with current models, enough to cover most people's around-town trips and commutes without using the gasoline engine.

The gas engine would be available for out-of-town expeditions. "That's not the vehicle that's on the road today," he said in a phone interview. "These are not commercially available" although prototypes are being tested.

To encourage auto manufacturers to offer such cars, Austin is looking at utility rebates to those who purchase the vehicles, and placing government fleet orders. Details are still to be worked out, he said.


The drive to encourage hybrid vehicles has a broad goal of cutting petroleum consumption, for national security reasons and to reduce the contribution of gasoline use to global warming. Duncan said the reduction of gasoline use with a plug-in hybrid can be extended if the other fuel is biodiesel or ethanol.

Bob Royer, City Light's communications and public affairs director, says the utility is interested in the global warming aspect because of the potential impacts on the Northwest's hydropower system. City Light is concerned about the warnings of increasingly unstable weather systems, including smaller mountain snowpacks, which is the source of water to turn generating turbines.

"If there is a change in weather in which we have less rain, that's no good for us," he said.

Royer said there's also a business case to be made for plug-in hybrids as a way to increase power sales. Recharging vehicle batteries won't constitute a big load on the system, he said, but what demand there might be will tend to occur at night, a time of off-peak power demand when generating systems have unused capacity. For a hydro-based system like the Northwest, that means water that's flowing over the dams and through turbines anyway. In Austin, Duncan said, "we have West Texas winds" that can be harnessed for producing electricity.

Royer said the utility also wants to see if plug-in hybrids will cost customers less than paying for gasoline. "If we can help our customers save money, that's a role we've played in the past through our conservation programs," he said.

The forum, co-sponsored by the organizations Climate Solutions and Sustainable Ballard and to be held Monday and Tuesday at City Hall, will also look at whether there's a role for the Northwest in the manufacturing of hybrid-power vehicles, and whether plug-in hybrids could act as suppliers of power to the grid.

IF YOU GO
Seattle Electric Vehicle to Grid Forum is at 1 p.m. Monday and Tuesday in the Bertha Landes Room of Seattle City Hall. Seating is limited. Those interested in attending should RSVP to [EMAIL PROTECTED]

P-I reporter Bill Virgin can be reached at 206-448-8319 or [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,

Bob Rice wrote:

> Otmar wrote:

>  Looks to me like an electrathon vehicle in the video but it's real
> hard to tell since they use "windblows media slayer" to show it.

Bob Rice wrote:

> Ya mean Electrathon stuff goes fast enough to get hurt in? Was, am
> worried that John Wayland coulda been involved? HE goes fast enough to do
> damage! J.W. are you OK, You are the only guy I know that races at PIR??!!
> YOU may have the story?

I'm fine everyone, thanks for the concern. I was oblivious to this incident, 
but when I
walked into work in the morning, I was bombarded with well-wisher comments and 
looks of
relief, that it wasn't 'me'...seems everyone saw it on the news except me.

I can only guess it was some sort of Electrathon race, as this time of year 
during
Portland's Rose Festival month of June, there's all sorts of racing activity at 
PIR,
including Electrathon races. I'm sorry to hear that a fellow racer was hurt, 
and hope he
or she is OK.

It 'is' frustrating from two angles....first, I'm sick and tired of the media 
calling the
bicycle-like Electrathon creations 'electric cars'....it only perpetuates the 
myth that
electric cars are all rolling science project-cockroaches on wheels machines. 
Second, the
media swarms all over anything that makes an EV appear unsafe, but casually 
dismisses all
the garages that have been burnt to the ground by gas cars.

Racing any type of vehicle has it's dangers. I'm very grateful to NEDRA and 
especially
Bill Dube's efforts to make the NHRA sanctioned electric drag racing as safe as 
possible.

See Ya.......John Wayland

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- To answer some questions and set some records straight. We run a G60 VW Corado front transaxle. The gear set I want to use is a 6 speed dog gear set by Quaife. It is much, much stronger. I have put my home up for sale in Jerome, Arizona to finance my move to Croatia to open a European distribution center for EV Parts. EV Parts will remain in it's present location. I will still be doing the same work I am plus more. The sale will also allow me to put my own money into GP and The Maniac Mazda. If it sells in time you will see both at Woodburn. A big thank you to Reverend Gadget for helping to explain Reality TV. I have gotten only a couple of critical letters. To these I simply reply: "I am so sorry to hear that you believe everything you see on TV." You should realize that they shot us with two cameras in our face for 10 hours a day for six weeks. I calculated about 500 hours of film boiled down to 46 minutes. Most of the time we had a great time building GP but this is not what the producers want. They want tension. The reason they give you an unreal and nearly impossible deadline is to create tension. That is why "American Chopper" is number one on all of cable. I hear people complain about the show but like addicts they still watch it. I see many comments about GP on this list that can easily be answered by surfing www.suckamps.com. Some of the answers are in response to viewers mail. We will be putting up more letters soon. Also concerning GP, some on this list have gotten the point of building this van rather than a sleek sports car or a rail dragster. I just would like to add that there is still a deeper psychological reason for building GP. People who have ideas that they can call their own, ideas that they feel are original are more apt to be swayed to new thinking. When people see a very heavy electric brick hurtle down the strip they think to themselves, "I can do better than that. I can build an aerodynamic, sleek and light electric." They are tricked into thinking they have this brilliant idea and some of them may act on it. This is just a small insight into my twisted sense of humor :-)

Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com


----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 6:06 AM
Subject: Re: Amp Head, Heads Up


Guys, guys guys(and gals) Success/failure is relative. and as racing goes, under deadline, that was a resounding success. Especially the Gadget assisted save in the pits that allowed another run. The thing that struck me was how much we subconsciously associate sound with speed. Even when GP did a 14 second 1/4 it looked slow on camera, only when next to an ICE making all it's noise do we have a point of reference. My friend use to call a good exhaust system "psychological horsepower".

What I don't understand is what OEM gear set on earth costs 5K? a whole G-force tranny can be had for that, wasn't GP's tranny an OEM unit? Shirroco?




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On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 18:37:16 -0700 (PDT), Reverend Gadget
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I say this from
>being a casuality of reality TV.

What happened?  I don't watch TV so I don't know much more than that
you had a TV show that sounded interesting.

John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN

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--- Begin Message ---
Lee writes:
> I agree. Since you already have them, there's no need to replace the
> cables. But I would change the ends to automotive post connectors (I
> think your batteries have both automotive posts and 5/16" studs). I'm
> worried that the 5/16" studs won't hold up.

and Roger writes: 
> - I notice that all of your traction battery connections are using flat
> lugs and wingnuts on threaded studs. The preferred connection for on
> road EVs is standard automotive clamps on the SAE posts.

This particular suggestion was not on my list.  Hadn't occured to me that
I could put a auto-style clamp on there and ignore the stud.

Thanks for all the battery suggestions, too!

I recharged the car, waited 24 hours, measured voltages, drove to work and
back (4.2 miles at about 35 mph), and remeasured six hours later:

charged         spent
12.82           12.54
12.49           12.24
12.79           12.50
12.73           12.46
12.58           12.33
12.70           12.44
12.59           12.31
12.76           12.50
12.56           12.29
12.61           12.37
12.50           12.61

I'm not sure what I learned from this, except that all the batteries dropped
by about 0.25 volts, give or take.  What I don't understand is that I thought
that floodeds peaked out at 12.65 volts fully charged, and some batteries
here are higher than that.

I did have a weird event.  Just when I was arriving at work, the car slowed
down to a crawl of about 1 mph, just before railroad tracks with the train
coming.  What fun!  It managed to crawl that way all the way into work, and
was just fine five ours later when I drove home.  The Curtis controller did
not make the 1KHz whine, so it probably wasn't thermal shutdown.  Bizarre.

Brian
http://www.skewray.com/alfa


-- 
Brian M. Sutin, Ph.D.   Astronomical Optical Engineering and Software
Skewray Research/316 W Green St/Claremont CA 91711 USA/(909) 621-3122

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--- Begin Message --- I just wanted to say thank you to all of you who took the time to send feedback to The Discovery Channel. I have heard through one of my emails that they were getting a lot of positive feedback. This will help to get more EV related programs on Discovery. For those who haven't given feedback please do so by sending your comments either by calling Discovery at 1-800-889-9950 and ask for viewer relations or go to http://extweb.discovery.com/viewerrelations and fill out their form in order to make your comments. Even if you don't like me but do like EVs your comments further the acceptance of EVs. It will not help me and I will not get the series as I was let go from the contract over six months ago and I would never go through that ordeal again. It severely damaged my company. People think you are making big bucks being on TV but it is just the opposite. We had to pay out of pocket to build GP and I can tell you that a project of this magnitude does not come cheap. It wiped out our operating capitol, but we will survive. As my ex wife said: I have a pitbull brain :-) When I clamp on to an idea such as EVs I don't let go.

Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com


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--- Begin Message ---
Hi everyone, especially Lee,

Lee, you wrote in January of 2003:

The circuitry in the standard 500-amp and optional *1000*-amp E-meters is
the same. All they do is change the software so it will display and do
its calculation for currents up to 1024 *amps* instead of 512 *amps*.

They provide a physically larger shunt, but it is still a 500amp 50mv
shunt. Since a shunt is just a resistor, the bigger one has a higher
wattage rating, as it needs to be at *1000 **amps*.

I'm just setting up my e-meter. I have a 50mv 1000 amp shunt (which after talking to others, I don't think will give accurate readings on the meter).

I also have the 500 amp 50mv shunt that came with the e-meter. With my Z1K, this will obviously not be sufficient. So I'm looking at getting a 1000 amp 100mv shunt. Is this the right shunt?
And now to Lee's comment:  how do change the software to do the 1024 thing?

Thanks,

Ryan
--
- EV Source -
Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781

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--- Begin Message ---
Ryan Bohm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I'm just setting up my e-meter. I have a 50mv 1000 amp shunt (which 
> after talking to others, I don't think will give accurate readings on 
> the meter).

Think about it for a minute.

The original 500A 50mV shunt sends the meter 50mV when 500A flows
through it; the meter displays "500".

The 1000A 50mV shunt sends the meter 50mV when 1000A flows throught it;
the meter still displays "500" since its software translates 50mV to
"500".

The 1000A 50mV shunt is the *only* thing that will work with your stock
500A E-meter if you want to be able to sense up to 1000A.  The accuracy
will be fine, but you will mentally have to remember that the true
current is 2x whatever the E-Meter indicates.

If you can get the E-meter software upgraded to the 1000A version, then
go with the 1000A 100mV shunt that Lee refers to.  Asking here isn't
going to get your software upgraded; you need to contact the service
department at Xantrex to see if they offer that service and what it
costs.  It may well be that you are better off selling the 500A meter
and buying the proper 1000A version than shipping yours back for a
software upgrade.

Cheers,

Roger.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- OK, The cabriolet springs might do it. But, I will be using 7 group 31 Optimas, 69lbs each for 483 lbs in front and 6 Optimas in the back. I will be running an ADC 9" and Raptor 1200. I suppose I could put 6 in the front and 7 in the back.
What do you think?


On Jun 3, 2005, at 10:58 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

At 11:33 AM 6/3/2005, you wrote:
Hi folks

I'm still gathering parts for my 83 Rabbit GTI conversion. But I'm having a problem finding front springs that will carry the weight of 7 Yellowtop Optimas.


The stock springs will work just fine. You are removing the engine and the radiator. The 7 Optimas weigh 294 pounds. This is about the same weight as the engine and radiator.

        If you want to pick it up 3/4" or so, use Cabriolet springs.

My Wabbit has stock springs all the way around. It has 735 pounds of batteries all together. The car sits about an inch lower than stock.

        I put in after market sway bars so it would handle better.

   _ /|        Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
  \'o.O'     <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
       U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com


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--- Begin Message ---
Hi folks

What are the pros and cons of Optima group 31 over group 34? This has probably already been mentioned on this list. Is there an archive to check out.?

Thanks

John from SF

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--- Begin Message ---
We will be passing through Portland around 5 pm on Sunday June 12 and plan
to participate in the EV dinner mentioned previously.  We'll stop by John
Wayland's house to see who else might be ready to get together.  See some
of you there!


> [Original Message]
> From: John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 6/3/2005 7:08:52 PM
> Subject: Re: Portland Visit
>
> Hello to Bill and All,
>
> Bill Dennis wrote:
>
> > I'll be in Portland June 12-17 if anyone would like to get together for
any
> > or all of the following:
> >
> > 1)  Have lunch
> > 2)  Show off his/her EV
> > 3)  Give a new guy some pointers.
> >
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > Bill Dennis
>
> By all means, you're invited to stop by! I'll be home that weekend as I
had to make the
> hard decision not to go to the terrific Vancouver BC show this year, and
instead, will be
> feverishly working on race cars and such. You can go for a spin in Blue
Meanie, take in
> some hi fi vibes from the Heavy Metal Garden Tractor (if I can get its 8
year old
> batteries changed out ) or the Insight, and see the race vehicles in
their various forms
> of not-ready-for-prime-time state. This weekend, the Siamese 8 shell is
here as we are
> test fitting it into the Zombie's engine bay so we can design and build
new motor mounts.
> Maybe by the following weekend the new Hawker Aerobatteries will be
installed. Purple
> Phaze's BIG yellow beast is here for you to check out, and I bet I can
get Marko to stop
> by on his way back home from Canada to show you Fiamp, his super cool '59
Fiat 600, too.
> It's got a little 48V 6.7 inch Prestolite being hit by 120V through a
1000 amp DCP
> controller!
>
> I'm definitely up for lunch and or dinner...should I invite some of the
crazed EVers from
> around here to join us?
>
> Looking forward to meeting a new EV friend.
>
> See Ya.....John
>
>

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--- Begin Message ---

On Jun 3, 2005, at 10:33 AM, John Martin wrote:

I'm still gathering parts for my 83 Rabbit GTI conversion. But I'm having a problem finding front springs that will carry the weight of 7 Yellowtop Optimas. ElectroAuto has springs for 8, 6 volt batteries, much heavier than 7 Optimas. Any suggestions would be helpful. This is really holding me back.


I suspect the front springs for a Rabbit Pickup would work well. The Pickup rode about 1 inch higher than a Rabbit and the GTI about 1/2 inch lower than a standard Rabbit. I believe that the Pickup springs are about the same as the lightest 85 Golf springs (at least locally I found those two listed as the same spring at an auto parts store.) With 7 golf cart batteries in the Pickup I converted I found the heaviest 2nd generation Jetta springs (AC and automatic model) where about GTI ride height. With 13 batteries in the front of the bed I didn't have to change the rear springs :-)

Paul "neon" G.

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--- Begin Message ---
It looks as if Miramar High School will be able to bring there 944 to the Power 
of DC.  Shawn and Matt of SEVO are sponsoring our vehicle with the use of 
Matt's own personal Z2K and his PFC 20. We are also powering up our twin 
XP1227's with 240 volts. See you next week.

Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Bring your EVs and be on TV.

The Discovery Channel will be at the NEDRA Power of DC Saturday June 11 
at the Mason Dixon Dragway in Hagerstown, Maryland.

This will be a great opportunity to get EVs out on a National level. 
NBC TV plans to be there as well.

Besides being on TV, racers will have a chance to win trophies and cash 
prizes and of course meet with other EV enthusiasts.

See the Power of DC website for more details.

Feel free to contact me for further information about the race.

Chip Gribben
NEDRA Power of DC
http://www.powerofdc,com

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
301-490-0657
cell 240-687-1678



                
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