EV Digest 4433
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: More SIADIS questions...
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
2) Re: Motor abuse? (was: RE: 9" Warp motor for drag racing)
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: 'Instant' Hybrid idea.
by "Stu and Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: 'Instant' Hybrid idea.
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: 'Instant' Hybrid idea.
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Does one ever use a 220 welder at the lower settings?
by "Stu and Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Hope this will help promoting EVs.
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: You need a welder - connecting 2 110vac welders in series/parallel
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Power of DC
by [EMAIL PROTECTED] (BadFishRacing)
10) RE: 'Instant' Hybrid idea.
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Battery Capacity Testing
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Got My SAAB today! Conversion now underway!
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Link10 RS232
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Blue Meanie vs. Maserati
by Tim Brehm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Blue Meanie vs. Maserati
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Power of DC results??
by "Chip Gribben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: 'Instant' Hybrid idea.
by "Stu and Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) how to upgrade converted pickup truck?
by elaine chiu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Blue Meanie vs. Maserati
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Blue Meanie vs. Maserati
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Blue Meanie vs. Maserati
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Blue Meanie vs. Maserati
by Tim Brehm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Blue Meanie vs. Maserati
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Fw: 100A battery tester
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Battery Capacity Testing
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Does one ever use a 220 welder at the lower settings?
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Link10 RS232
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: KillaCyle in American Airlines Magazine
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: how to upgrade converted pickup truck?
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Paul and Chris,
I used Kermit in a former life many year ago went I worked at CompuServe.
Should be perfect for what I want.
Brain dead or long term memory going.
Robert Salem
> > Greetings,
> >
> > Any suggetions on open source or free software for dos to run as a
> terminal ?
> >
> > I was just given a dos laptop.
> >
> > I highly dislike using a palm for my Z2K.
> >
> > Robert Salem
>
> Try;
>
> http://www.columbia.edu/kermit/
>
>
> Paul Compton
> www.sciroccoev.co.uk
> www.morini-mania.co.uk
>
> ___________________________________________
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6/4/05, Otmar wrote:
> Actually you can get quite close to this by setting the battery
> current limit lower than the motor current limit. Doing that reduces
> the motor current limit as the duty cycle, and therefore the motor
> voltage, goes up.
> A higher voltage pack doesn't necessarily keep it in current limit
> longer, that depends on your gearing tradeoffs. But the controller
> will be working harder if it has to buck from a higher voltage.
That last sentence got me wondering... What's the magic "anti brush
arcing" number? Some limit of ~156 volts or something(I can't
remember)?
So if I had a 336 or 348 volt pack, and had the motor voltage capped
at 156 or whatever, that's going to be hard on the Zilla?
Is running a high voltage pack that big of an issue when keeping the
motor voltage down so it doesn't arc so bad in regards to making the
Zilla adjust the voltage difference like that?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 1:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 'Instant' Hybrid idea.
"If you stop 100 times like that during a day,
it is 50A*10sec*100 = 50,000As or 13Ah. You better notice
that amount put back in the batteries."
On average it seems that a mile in an EV takes about 400Wh
If you stopped 100 times from 60 mph and the stop took 10 seconds with 50
Amps continuously going into the batteries you would indeed get 13 Ah of
recharge.
Does your EV go 60 mph and far enough to stop that many times on a single
charge?
IMHO 13Ah is a very high estimate.
How many Ah are in your battery pack? Call the number XAh.
Divide 13Ah by XAh and that will be the decimal fraction of your gain in
range.
What is it in your EV?
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6/13/05, Stu and Jan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If you stopped 100 times from 60 mph and the stop took 10 seconds with 50
> Amps continuously going into the batteries you would indeed get 13 Ah of
> recharge.
>
> Does your EV go 60 mph and far enough to stop that many times on a single
> charge?
>
Haven't you heard of "hills" ? :)
There's one I drive quite regularly, it gets me about 5% back on the
range dial. That's 5% I can use again, for free! And, I haven't
toasted my brake pads holding the 2 ton van back on the winding,
hairpin road - I just sit tight and let the ~20kW regen take the
strain..
I can't see why anyone would think regen is a bad idea - every serious
road EV built by a major manufacturer has it, and the "free"
recharging is an excellent selling point (it seems to work for hybrids
anyway).
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Stu and Jan wrote:
On average it seems that a mile in an EV takes about 400Wh
Make it about 250Wh/mile unless you drive a large van.
If you stopped 100 times from 60 mph and the stop took 10 seconds with 50
Amps continuously going into the batteries you would indeed get 13 Ah of
recharge.
Practically it is rather peaks at 100A diminishing down to 0A.
So, OK, assume 50A continuous.
Does your EV go 60 mph and far enough to stop that many times on a single
charge?
Accelerating /decelerating once every mile 100 times requires 100
mile range and crazy driving, that 100 times was just an example
to illustrate the point. Don't take this literally.
IMHO 13Ah is a very high estimate.
about 8.2Ah is maximum what I got during one day.
How many Ah are in your battery pack? Call the number XAh.
70 useable Ah.
Divide 13Ah by XAh and that will be the decimal fraction of your gain in
range.
What is it in your EV?
> BoyntonStu
My case: 8.2Ah/70Ah=0.11 or 11%.
At 200Wh/mile my drop dead range with 22 kWh pack is
22/0.2=110 miles. 11% of that is 12.1 extra miles
as a bonus of having regen.
Works for me.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does one ever use a 220 welder at the lower settings?
At what current do you burn 3/32 6013 rods?
Is a 110 welder able to go into the range of the 220 welder's lower
settings?
For steel less that .125 thick, it seems that a 110 welder is marginally
useable and would be better if:
1> The duty factor could be increased.
2> The OCV (open circuit voltage) could be increased to facilitate arc
starting.
3> I would also add; increase the current to about 125 Amps.
Duty factor could be increased by forced air cooling and by 'venting' the
welder.
OCV could be increased by a temporarily higher arc starting voltage.
Perhaps a higher primary winding section and a momentary switch.
At this point might we (with little cost and work), have a small, portable,
better than marginal 110 welder?
Increasing the current to about 125 Amp is not so easy but it could be done
with a parallel transformer properly phased from another 110 circuit.
The goal of achieving a 'hot rod' 110 welder does not seem far fetched to
me.
I could be wrong.
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OpEd in today's SF Chronicle on the Hydrogen Hypeway by SFEVA member
Amanda Kovattana.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2005/06/13/EDGM7C90L81.DTL
Link sent by a friend of mine. Welcome to forward to everyone who might
care.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not at all. Power is volts x amps. With the phases out-of-sync, the
voltage difference peaks at 360V (110vac is 180p-p, 220 is 360Vp-p). If
the phases were in-sync, the voltage difference is zero, therefore no
current flow, therefore no power.
In 110, your current path is hot <--> neutral. In 220, it's hot <-->
hot. Neutral is still provided, as many appliances will use both 220
and 110; an electric dryer uses both phases for heating, but only one
phase (110) for the motor.
Don Cameron wrote:
Eric Poulsen wrote:
"Any 220V plug has 2 phases that are 180 degrees out of sync"
This confuses me. If I took two 110V circuits from either side of the box,
they add up to give me 220VAC (proven by use many times). If the two sides
were out of phase by 180 degrees would not it cancel out?
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
Sent: June 11, 2005 12:05 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: You need a welder - connecting 2 110vac welders in
series/parallel
Any 220V plug has 2 phases that are 180 degrees out of sync. Having two 110
outlets from different breakers won't ensure that the phasing is correct.
It has to be from two breakers on opposite sides of the box.
To truly check the box output phasing, you'd need an O-scope of some sort.
Having said that, I don't recommend attempting this, primarily because of
safety concerns, and the "black box" nature of the units. I'd be more
comfortable simply using 2+ beefy transformers from old microwaves, as some
people on "da intarweb" have done.
Stu and Jan wrote:
Connecting 2-100 VAC welders in series across a 220VAC line and the
welding leads in parallel.
I have a Merlin 150 110VAC welder that I picked up for about $30.
For a 110V welder, this brand appears top drawer.
If I could get another for the same price, and I could parallel them,
not only would I have the current capacity of the Miller or Lincoln
225Amp buzz boxes, I would also have the portability of a lightweight
pair of 110 welders, I could use them in places where 220V is not
convenient.
You could use 2 - 110VAC receptacles from different breakers.
A 'parallel' receptacle box could be built for a few bucks to make the
parallel connections a plug-it-in operation.
You could store them on a shelf and save scarce shop floor space.
Some negative thoughts:
Duty cycle most likely would not be as robust as with a Miller or a
Lincoln.
What if their output voltages were different?
You could also convert them both to DC and diode isolate them.
How to check that the phases are correct?
Does this basic idea have some merit?
BoyntonStu
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
Just back safe and sound from my 5th Power of DC.
This was another great year. No problems making my way from Detroit into town.
Got into Gettysburg, PA Friday evening. Left the wife, kid, and misc.family
in Gettysburg to hang around the pool all day. I tend to forget that
Hagerstown can be a bit warm and sunny. In an effort to try and keep cool
under my leathers, I went sleeveless, but I should've opted for some sunscreen.
I'll be all week recovering from a pretty severe sunburn.
All the usual gang were there.
Shawn Lawless and crew with the Juice. Definately not what I expected out of
Shawn this year. Guess they're getting kinda soft running a controller? I
still like the hard launch of an Albright contactor. Never seen 8 Eteks in
anything. This probably makes the Juice the quickest Etek powered vehicle?
Makes me think my next 3 or 4 etek powered drag bike is a good idea.
The Lawless Nash was a nice machine. Didn't expect to see NEDRA record times
out of a ride as cute as that, but Shawn's crew must have built her right.
Bob Rice's Rabbit was a hit. We've all heard plenty of stories about her. I
did have the pleasure of riding in it a few years back. This one just goes to
show you how simple a daily driver EV can be.
Bob Salem continues to hit a higher mark every year. With those new sticky
drag tires this year, something had to break. Congrats Bob on a new personal
quickest E.T. And thanks for the use of the generator.
The SEVO guy from Florida has a fleet of pocket bikes and mini bikes. All of
their machines were nicely built rides. Looked like stock, with gobbbbs more
power. I can definately see their 48V machine putting a whooping on gas pocket
bikes on the road courses. I thought their bigger pocket bike was a neat ride,
but definitely underestimated the power until I took her for a ride.
Definately not for the beginner. Way to go guys for bringing some decent
machines to the people, just just 350 watt chineese junk.
The Florida High School Porshe, umm can't recall the exact name, busted the
High School 'B' record. Then, in the true sprit of NEDRA, decided to rewire
her for a shot at the 'A' record. Not sure of the exact cause of the meltdown,
but well, that's racing. Just glad you were able to drive it onto the trailer.
Saved us a whole lot of pushing.
BYU ultra-cap car. Very nice build. The two speed trans makes me sure that
I'm on the right track with my new two speed. Like many of us before, BYU
also suffered the effects of ground pounding torque and broke a half shaft. I
see huge potential from these guys.
Then there was the Formula car, another high school car, a Sparrow, S-10...
Didn't get around to see everything since I spent the first half of the day
just trying to get down the track.
New for this year in the Piranha was the two speed electrically shifted
transmission, with microprocessor controlled launch delay, series/parallel, and
clutch shifting. Wasted my first two attempts at the tree with microprocessor
problems. Then got in a few runs, more and more respectable every time, but
not near the times I ran last year. In the effort to break into new and
exciting technology, I got the two speed installed, but definitely not
perfected. I think I've got a few ideas to get the clutch operating properly.
Will definately be ready by the January/February race.
Although I didn't have time to hang out with them, the Band was awesome,
playing a sweet mix of classic and modern rock. I do hope they do know that
they were appreciated, even though I didn't see a big crowd swarming around.
Of course, a big thanks to Chip and this crew for putting this together once
again. He must be doing something right because I don't recall seeing this
many vehicles, and definitely not from the distance some of they guys traveled.
See you all next year.
Darin Gilbert
BadFishRacing
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 13 Jun 2005 at 15:16, Stu and Jan wrote:
> Divide 13Ah by XAh and that will be the decimal fraction of your gain in
> range.
Sigh. OK, one more time.
Some people want the highest efficiency possible, others want the cheapest
EV possible. However, most are somewhere in between. They decide on
each efficiency improvement based on how effective it is and how much it
costs.
Practically speaking, the range improvement from using regeneration is
anywhere from 5 to 20 percent, depending on the terrain in which you drive
(the more hills you have, the more you benefit), and on how you drive (those
who deliberately use the mechanical brakes less gain more).
The financial cost of regen is high when you fit a series motor to your
conversion. It's appreciably lower with a separately excited DC motor, and
almost trivial with an AC induction motor.
So - each EV builder decides whether to implement it based on his or her
intended use of the vehicle and budget.
The above writer has obviously made up his mind about it, presumably after
making a careful analysis. Great! That's one decision made.
To others who are looking into their own EV projects: be sure you make
every decision - including the regen or no decision - in a fully informed
matter.
We're not talking faith here; each design decision is is amenable to research
and considered judgement. Just be careful not to equate insistent repetition
with truth.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have just finished load testing a "test" 12V battery from my pack with a
20 Amp load and a 45 Amp load (I will do a 100 Amp load later this week). I
have the battery voltage, current and battery temperature logged every
second during the test. The battery was fully charged before the test and I
ran it down to 10.5 Volts before ending the test.
For the deka 8G34R, the
average current = 17.43 Amps,
elapsed time = 1.41 hours,
average temp = 17.3 deg C
The second test,
avg current = 43.95 Amps,
elapsed time = 0.329 hours,
average temp = 21.8 deg C
Just one question: how do I adjust for temperature?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My project is now underway! I got my 1995 Saab 900SE today, and she is a
real beauty (henceforth referred to as "Saabrina"). As soon as I find a
place to post pics of the progress I will put up the link.
I had to wait a couple of months to get the title cleared up, but have
putting the time to good use reading and gathering technical info.
I appreciate the useful information I read here.
Mark
St. Charles, MO
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just tried my Link10 with RS232, however no data is coming from the meter.
I have tried with two different laptops. Looking in the manual it does not
appear that I have to set any special parameters to turn it on.
Suggestions?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ <outbind://41/www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi everyone, Tim here.
It's been a very busy few months with all the Wayland last minute
EV projects. I have
spent almost every free minute at the Wayland EV workshop trying to
help get these EVs
back on the road, track, and garden? Last weekend I worked mainly on
the Heavy Metal
Garden Tractor. We replaced very tired Blue Tops with 6 new Exide
Orbitals. After some
battery tray modifications and new cables the tractor was ready for the
garden (for the
tunes of course). Once again, our attention was focused back to White
Zombie. We set the
new Siamese 8 motor housing into the very empty looking engine bay.
WOW, this is going to
be allot easier than we both thought! The motor is about eight inches
shorter counting the
shaft that used to stick out the front. The Siamese 8 fit perfect! No
more tilting the
output shaft toward the ground due to clearance issues. After some
measurements and some
quick sketches, it was off to the metal shop. We loaded up Blue Meanie
with a few tools
and an extension cord to top off the tired pack of Yellow Tops when we
arrived.
John had me back the Blue Meanie out the driveway while he went to
get the camera.
When John returned I handed him the keys and he gave them back . "You
drive" he said. I
have driven this car many times, but I'm not going to turn down this
offer. I love driving
this zippy little car.
We arrived at the metal shop where Marko was working on a custom
stainless steel
console for Fiamp (this man does amazing metal work). We showed him the
sketches and
measurements, and between the three of us the motor mounts were done in
no time. After
lunch and other trips here and there, it was back to the EV workshop. I
drove the Blue
Meanie every trip, However, without the E meters (John's still working
on his rewire of
the car, thus they aren't connected right now) and with five year old
batteries, I was
instructed to take it "kind of easy" from Wayland. This is not the way
I normally drive, I
rarely go too far over the speed limit, but I like to get to the limit
very fast and the
Blue Meanie gets there pretty fast.
We arrived back at the workshop, and set the motor mounts in
place. The new motor
mounts fit perfect. We marked the holes, drilled four mounting holes in
the Siamese 8
housing to bolt up the motor mounts. Everything is working out
perfectly. We sent the
motor back to Jim at the motor shop for the final preparation and mods
before the assembly of the motor.
It's Saturday now, and once again I find myself at the Wayland lab.
However, this is a
very exiting day. Finally, the completion of the Siamese 8. Jim was on
his way from
Redmond with the motor and all the pieces for the motor and the
Dutchman was also on his
way to press the armatures on bearings onto the custom motor shaft. Jim
arrived in a brand
new Dodge 1500 with the 4.7 liter magnum V8. After a little crap from
Wayland, Jim
justified himself by explaining he got a very good deal and he needs
the power for the
long trip over Mt. Hood with a load of motors in the back. Soon after,
The Dutchman
arrived and after watching a few EV videos of electric cars melting
tires and doing
wheelstands, we headed to The Dutchman's shop. He is the only one of us
with a big enough
press to install the armatures onto the extra long shaft. We had a
regular convoy, with
The Dutchman leading, me driving Jim's new truck, and Wayland in the
back taking Jim for
his first ride in an EV (I'm sure Jim will write his own post about his
experience). We
arrived at The Dutchman's shop where John quickly realized he forgot
his camera. It's
important to have a digital image record of all this cool motor stuff.
Jim and The Dutcman
stayed at the shop to continue while Wayland and I went back to the
Wayland home (me
driving Blue Meanie) to pick up the camera and top off the batteries
with the wonderful
PFC 20. Back at the EV lab and with the car plugged in, we decided to
unload the new
pallet load of Hawker Aerobatteries sitting on the floor to allow more
charge time. With a
fully charged pack it was time to go back to the shop. Once again, John
threw me the keys,
but this time he said "have fun" instead of "take it easy". The Blue
Meanie is always fun,
but with the batteries now warmed up and cycled a bit, we knew we had
plenty of power to
get there and back easily.
We backed out the driveway and turned onto Glisan with a little
tire squealing, well,
maybe allot. Silently cruising down Glisan I looked to my right and saw
a brand new
Maserati in the lane next to us. "Hey John look next to us ", I said.
John's eyes lit up,
and before I could say another word, John said, "Do it!". We were going
fairly slow to get
the driver to look at the little blue Datsun. Still in second gear I
let off the
accelerator a little to get a lot of room between us and the cars
ahead. I hit the
accelerator and shot past the Maserati, hit third gear and stabbed the
accelerator again.
Blue Meanie went sideways, then quickly straightened out and took off.
I sure hope the
Maserati driver saw the electric emblem on the back!
We arrived back at the shop where The Dutchman and Jim were done
pressing on one of the
armatures and were pressing the fan sleeve, fan, and center bearing.
After all the parts
were on the shaft, it was time to leave the shop. Again John said "Hey
Tim, drive Blue
Meanie, Jim and I will follow you because I want to get some pictures
of the car on the
road". The light turned green to get onto the freeway (from my past
experiences in this
car I know it loves the freeway). I think Jim knew he was in trouble
here as the Blue
Meanie just kept pulling hard through all the gears (thanks to that new
Z1k) they were
just getting smaller and smaller in the mirror. I let off to let John
have a chance to get
picture, then stepped on it again, still in high gear. The car took off
again, at very
unreasonable speeds! They became a spec in the mirror, but then it
happened!!! The car
lost power. I was thinking "OH S#%T" I killed the Blue Meanie!!
(Otmar you shouldn't read this part)
I let the car coast (still at a good speed) until they caught me.
We made our way to
the shoulder. I was still sitting in the driver seat when John came
running up with a
concerned look on his face "What happened?" he asked. I explained "I
don't know. I was
going really fast then I lost power, maybe a fuse?" Then, I turned the
key off and
recycled it, and I had power again. Oh yeah! Thermal shut down. John
forgot to tell me the
Zilla has not gotten its cooling system yet. Surprisingly, John was
happy and proud of me
for actually driving his car to the point of thermal shutdown. I drove
the car the rest of
the way to the EV lab with no problems. Perhaps another item on the EV
to do list next weekend is a Zilla cooling system......
TIM
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Make Yahoo! your home page
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 6:40 PM -0700 6/13/05, Tim Brehm wrote:
The car
lost power. I was thinking "OH S#%T" I killed the Blue Meanie!!
(Otmar you shouldn't read this part)
Ya Right Tim! As if I could resist! :-)
I let the car coast (still at a good speed) until they caught me.
We made our way to
the shoulder. I was still sitting in the driver seat when John came
running up with a
concerned look on his face "What happened?" he asked. I explained "I
don't know. I was
going really fast then I lost power, maybe a fuse?" Then, I turned the
key off and
recycled it, and I had power again. Oh yeah! Thermal shut down.
I think probably not. Thermal shutdown is a very gradual thing, the
power slowly backs down, it doesn't shut off suddenly.
Hey John, did you put the new code in the Hairball like I asked you
to? Remember, the stuff I sent you a couple months ago when you said
you were putting it in the car? Jab jab.. (I'm guessing he didn't) :-)
John got the first Z1K ever made. The code that was last in HB #006
(we're well past #106 now) is from over two years ago. Knowing John,
I'm guessing he was too busy to upgrade the code, just like he was
too busy to put in a cooling system before telling Tim to "Have fun".
You guys are nuts! But plenty of fun. :-)
Anyway, the old code could cause random shut down of the Hairball, as
well as corruption of settings. Better upgrade it if it isn't yet,
that can be a safety issue.
If it was upgraded then I want to know what error codes it stored.
The new code should not be doing such a thing.
I need to get back to the four Z2Ks sitting on the bench awaiting
testing. One of which is Johns.
Have fun. Oh, that's right, you are. :-)
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
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--- Begin Message ---
Hey Tim, I'm finally writing something up now. I spent most of the day
trying to get my email working again.
Lots to talk about so something should be up soon. Everyone who went please
feel free to post things up. It was a great event.
Chip
Power of DC
http://www.powerofdc.com
> Have I missed some posts somewhere?. I don't see any post Power of DC
posts.
>
> Anyway,
>
> I had great fun.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Roden (Akron OH USA)
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 8:19 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: 'Instant' Hybrid idea.
On 13 Jun 2005 at 15:16, Stu and Jan wrote:
> Divide 13Ah by XAh and that will be the decimal fraction of your gain in
> range.
Sigh. OK, one more time.
"Practically speaking, the range improvement from using regeneration is
anywhere from 5 to 20 percent, "
You have made up your mind by throwing out these figures. 20% is an
emotional response, not a factual response.
Instead of sighing, please indicate the Ah capacity of your EV.
My mind is not made up about using the motor in reverse for braking. I am
for it 100%.
I just want the facts on the percentages of regeneration.
13Ah divided by what?
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
how should I upgrade my electric pickup?
�
mitsubishi/dodge ram 50, 1988
13 x 12 flooded lead acid batteries
DCP controller
DC/DC Iota power supply
zivan 220v charger, ng3?
schabmueller (sp?) motor
�
range only 15 miles right now.� need 25 minimum.
�
options:
�
1.� add 13 more 12 volt batteries, have two packs in parallel that I
can switch between?�
how does one do buddy pairs? how do you charge them?
�
2.� switch to 6 volt flooded, maybe 24 x 6?� 144v.� then have to adjust
charger and probably get a different dc/dc converter
willing to sacrifice part of the truck bed, but still has to tilt up to
water the 9 batteries under there right now. could probably fit
another 8 under the bed.
thanks for any help
elaine
76 citicar C.C.
and this converted pickup
�
�
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Otmar wrote:
> I think probably not. Thermal shutdown is a very gradual thing, the
> power slowly backs down, it doesn't shut off suddenly.
>
> Hey John, did you put the new code in the Hairball like I asked you
> to? Remember, the stuff I sent you a couple months ago when you said
> you were putting it in the car? Jab jab.. (I'm guessing he didn't) :-)
Guilty as charged (head hanging in shame).
> John got the first Z1K ever made. The code that was last in HB #006
> (we're well past #106 now) is from over two years ago. Knowing John,
> I'm guessing he was too busy to upgrade the code, just like he was
> too busy to put in a cooling system before telling Tim to "Have fun".
>
Guilty as charged...again.
>
> Anyway, the old code could cause random shut down of the Hairball, as
> well as corruption of settings. Better upgrade it if it isn't yet,
> that can be a safety issue.
OK, OK.....I'll do it! I've been a bad, bad, Plasma Boy :-(
>
> I need to get back to the four Z2Ks sitting on the bench awaiting
> testing. One of which is Johns.
1000 amps of Zilla power in a 2340 lb. car is fun stuff, indeed. 2000 amps
jammed into
that Big Yellow Beast of motor Jim put together, in a minitruck fed from 29
Exide Orbitals
at 348V, ought to be enough to keep Tim busy and wipe that silly EV grin off his
face...well, maybe not.
> You guys are nuts!
> Have fun. Oh, that's right, you are. :-)
Oh yeah, you 'know' we are! Sorry to for the incorrect assumption about the
thermal bit, I
should know better! No worries, appropriate water cooling and proper code will
be
installed this weekend.
See Ya.....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What kind of Maserati was it? It would be quite interesting
to see an EV that took $15k in parts embarass a $100k
Spyder. But 0-60 in 4.7 seconds for the Spyder is something
Meanie would have a lot of trouble with, unless the driver
of the Maserati wasn't competent with his machine. Meanie
would certainly kill one from 0-40 though. Nothing can hope
to touch an electric motor's low-end torque and the
resulting launch.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
John Westlund wrote:
> What kind of Maserati was it? It would be quite interesting
> to see an EV that took $15k in parts embarass a $100k
> Spyder. But 0-60 in 4.7 seconds for the Spyder is something
> Meanie would have a lot of trouble with, unless the driver
> of the Maserati wasn't competent with his machine.
You know, I'm not sure what model it was, but it was some kind of gorgeous
looking sedan.
Keep in mind, it wasn't a race, just a little 'EV demonstration' to entertain
the smug
Maserati dude :-) For the Spyder, I'd have to turn around, go home, and bring
back White
Zombie.
> Meanie would certainly kill one from 0-40 though. Nothing can hope
> to touch an electric motor's low-end torque and the resulting launch.
I love this car, it's a lot of fun, and it 'is' pretty darn snappy, but I'm
also well
aware that there's no way Blue Meanie could actually outgun a car like a
Maserati. Yeah,
off the line there's not too many cars that will take my little pocket rocket,
as you say,
from 0-40. Blue Meanie probably does 0-60 in 6 seconds flat, so there's a lot
of sporty
type cars that would have trouble with Blue Meanie, too. But make no mistake,
out on an
open freeway from 65 mph or so on, that Maserati would have shown us its
taillights in
short order.
Now the stereo, that's another story...no way any Maserati factory sound
system's gonna
touch what I put together :-)
See Ya......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Westlund <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What kind of Maserati was it? It would be quite interesting
to see an EV that took $15k in parts embarass a $100k
Spyder. But 0-60 in 4.7 seconds for the Spyder is something
Meanie would have a lot of trouble with, unless the driver
of the Maserati wasn't competent with his machine. Meanie
would certainly kill one from 0-40 though. Nothing can hope
to touch an electric motor's low-end torque and the
resulting launch.
I think it was a Maserati Gran Sport. To be fair the driver was not racing
us. He had several cars in front of him. I just wanted to make sure he noticed
the little Datsun roasting the tires at 30 mph and pulling away hard. I'm sure
if he had the chance he would of been showing off his $80k-$100k machine . But
it's nice to be noticed.
Tim
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Perhaps the Maserati driver didn't know you two were racing? Heheh
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
Children need love, especially when they do not deserve it.
- Harold S.
Hulbert
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: Blue Meanie vs. Maserati
What kind of Maserati was it? It would be quite interesting
to see an EV that took $15k in parts embarass a $100k
Spyder. But 0-60 in 4.7 seconds for the Spyder is something
Meanie would have a lot of trouble with, unless the driver
of the Maserati wasn't competent with his machine. Meanie
would certainly kill one from 0-40 though. Nothing can hope
to touch an electric motor's low-end torque and the
resulting launch.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I received this today...
I believe Tony may be talking about
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90636 or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90920
Either one of these can put a load on a battery to check its cranking
ability. They cannot be connected continuously until the battery is dead
because the load will overheat and fail (unless you have a really big fan or
submerge it in something thermally conductive).
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "ToneB" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 7:15 AM
Subject: 100A battery tester
> Hey Joe,
> Please pass this on...
> Harbor Freight has a 100A load tester for $15.
> Can't build it for that!
> i'm not on the list, just read the archives.
> afn
> Tony Barros
> sacramento
> california
> usa
> earth
> milkyway
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are you measuring the battery voltage at the battery or the load?
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 5:15 PM
Subject: Battery Capacity Testing
> I have just finished load testing a "test" 12V battery from my pack with a
> 20 Amp load and a 45 Amp load (I will do a 100 Amp load later this week).
I
> have the battery voltage, current and battery temperature logged every
> second during the test. The battery was fully charged before the test and
I
> ran it down to 10.5 Volts before ending the test.
>
> For the deka 8G34R, the
> average current = 17.43 Amps,
> elapsed time = 1.41 hours,
> average temp = 17.3 deg C
>
> The second test,
> avg current = 43.95 Amps,
> elapsed time = 0.329 hours,
> average temp = 21.8 deg C
>
> Just one question: how do I adjust for temperature?
>
>
> thanks
> Don
>
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, I use my Lincoln 220 at 40 and 60 amps.
40 and 60 amps depending on the work.
Yes, my 110 welder would go up to 90 amps.
Yes, a 110 welder is marginal for .125 inch work.
It sounds like you are going though a lot of mental work that could be
easily solved by getting a bigger welder.
Are we getting a little off topic here?
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu and Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 12:52 PM
Subject: Does one ever use a 220 welder at the lower settings?
>
>
> Does one ever use a 220 welder at the lower settings?
>
>
>
> At what current do you burn 3/32 6013 rods?
>
>
>
> Is a 110 welder able to go into the range of the 220 welder's lower
> settings?
>
>
>
> For steel less that .125 thick, it seems that a 110 welder is marginally
> useable and would be better if:
>
>
>
> 1> The duty factor could be increased.
>
>
>
> 2> The OCV (open circuit voltage) could be increased to facilitate arc
> starting.
>
>
>
> 3> I would also add; increase the current to about 125 Amps.
>
>
>
> Duty factor could be increased by forced air cooling and by 'venting' the
> welder.
>
>
>
> OCV could be increased by a temporarily higher arc starting voltage.
> Perhaps a higher primary winding section and a momentary switch.
>
>
>
> At this point might we (with little cost and work), have a small,
portable,
> better than marginal 110 welder?
>
>
>
> Increasing the current to about 125 Amp is not so easy but it could be
done
> with a parallel transformer properly phased from another 110 circuit.
>
>
>
> The goal of achieving a 'hot rod' 110 welder does not seem far fetched to
> me.
>
>
>
> I could be wrong.
>
>
>
> BoyntonStu
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Connect a dual color LED from pin 3 to pin 5.
If the LED flickers every second, it means the data is flowing.
If the LED comes on steady, it means the driver is connected but the data is
not coming out.
If the LED does not come on, my documentation might be wrong and you should
run the same test from pin 2 to pin 5.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 6:19 PM
Subject: Link10 RS232
> I just tried my Link10 with RS232, however no data is coming from the
meter.
> I have tried with two different laptops. Looking in the manual it does not
> appear that I have to set any special parameters to turn it on.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> thanks
>
> Don
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
>
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ <outbind://41/www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Apparently, there is an article about the KillaCycle in the in-flight
magazine for American Airlines. I don't have a copy and I have not seen the
article. If any has the opportunity, snag me a copy for my scrap book.
Do you know what edition it is in? I just got back from vacation the
other day, and flew on American Airlines. I have a copy of their
magazine (the June edition), but I didn't see anything about your EV in it?
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Elaine (and al)
At 08:17 PM 13/06/05 -0700, Elaine wrote:
how should I upgrade my electric pickup?
mitsubishi/dodge ram 50, 1988
13 x 12 flooded lead acid batteries
What kind of flooded batteries? you should be able to get a set that has
double the amp-hour capacity that are less than double the physical size.
you could also go with 26 x 6V (156V) or 19 x 8V (152V) or 20 x 8V (160V)
batteries, although the 8V ones would mean tweaking the charger. Not sure
if the DCP controller could handle the extra volts of 20 x 8V at the end of
charge (if used immediately after charging).
DCP controller
DC/DC Iota power supply
zivan 220v charger, ng3?
schabmueller (sp?) motor
range only 15 miles right now. need 25 minimum.
Issue of adding batteries for more range is adding weight - so the
controller works harder and the motor generates more heat. What model
controller and what are your typical amps when driving? It would be
unfortunate to spend a lot of money on upgraded batteries only to burn out
the motor in a week. How big is the motor (diameter and length)? This would
give some indication of the capability of the motor. Does the motor have an
external blower? if not you could add one to help cool it.
options:
1. add 13 more 12 volt batteries, have two packs in parallel that I can
switch between?
No need to switch, permanently connect in paralell (but with a fuse in case
of any problems).
how does one do buddy pairs? how do you charge them?
Buddy pairs are as the name implies, each battery of the string gets
another connected in paralell to it. Charging is as normal.
2. switch to 6 volt flooded, maybe 24 x 6? 144v. then have to adjust
charger and probably get a different dc/dc converter
Can you go 26 x 6V and stay all else the same?
willing to sacrifice part of the truck bed, but still has to tilt up to
water the 9 batteries under there right now. could probably fit another 8
under the bed.
thanks for any help
elaine
76 citicar C.C.
and this converted pickup
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
