EV Digest 4453

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Brake Beefup Question
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Gp Lives
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) My Blog is now up!  Take a look!
        by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: My Blog is now up! Take a look!
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: worn shafts journals
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Latest Ghiamonster Pics and News
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: Gp Lives at Greenwood
        by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) RE: Honeycomb Aluminum Composites
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: NiCd question
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: NiCd question
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: My Blog is now up! Take a look!
        by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: An ideas, intermitant problem?
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Tig for sale, was Re: Welders for Sale
        by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) 144v components needed.
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) drag racing battery?
        by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: drag racing battery?
        by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: drag racing battery?
        by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Wavecrest electric bike
        by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: Wavecrest electric bike
        by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Solarvan BMS Document now in PDF format.
        by "Peter Perkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: CA ZEV Sticker
        by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Advanced leadacid without the lead?
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) BB600 for sale or trade
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) Re: 144v components needed.
        by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) E-Lawn Mower Batteries needed
        by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) RE: New bat pack break-in
        by "ohnojoe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) RE: Brake Beefup Question
        by "ohnojoe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 28) Re: Advanced leadacid without the lead?
        by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 29) Re: curtis 1221 current limit curcuit
        by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 30) Re: Gp Lives at Greenwood
        by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 31) Re: Gp Lives
        by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 32) Re: Gp Lives at Greenwood
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 33) Re: Wavecrest electric bike
        by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Chris Tromley wrote:

> I seriously doubt
> there are any cars out there that force their front tires to sustain 90% of
> the braking loads even in extreme cases.  That's getting dangerously close
> to lifting the rear wheels off the ground, which just doesn't happen in
> cars. 

Here's a video of a Mini doing a "stoppie".  It also goes on three
wheels in some turns..

http://www.filecabi.net/v.php?file=1119582046.wmv

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:

> Man I miss the tranny..

How about a stock one from a salvage yard as a temp solution?


>Note...need E-brake

Is there some way to rig up a line-loc to be used if the vehicle needs
to stay in one spot momentarily?

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I got my Blog started today for my EV project. There are a couple of photos of my 95 Saab.

http://saabrina.blogspot.com/

I will keep posting my progress and new photos as they come.

Take a look!

Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Ward wrote:

> I got my Blog started today for my EV project.  There are a couple of photos
> of my 95 Saab.


Maybe I missed it in an earlier post, but what are your preliminary plans?

Motor - AC or DC and size?

Which controller or inverter?

Battery type and amount?

Battery placement.  In trunk only or backseat also?  Above or below
floor, racks or boxes?

I'd leave the automatics converter "as is" and try it that way.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Most new motor have to tight of a fit for my liking.  First where is it going 
to go, unless you are having problems that cause it to stress.  Second, it 
stresses the bearing causing the balls to compress to the O.D. where I see lots 
of clean motors with just alot of bearing noise with no grease and tight balls 
: )
I make a note of how hard a bearing comes off to see whether I will sand it 
down just a bit on the lathe.  If you guys take off a bearing and you darn near 
kill yourself taking it off then sand that journal down by hand if needed so 
you don't ruin a bearing putting it on.  I got 24 years that tells me but it's 
not rocket science. Don't over sand it either.  if you start driving it on and 
it seems hard take it off and see if your cocked or maybe more sanding is 
needed.  I like to use a small dab of loc-tite (sold everywhere) so I can 
afford a looser press fit.  Do not use loc-tight in the plate jounal on the 
C.E. as this is where the bearing is allowed to swell forward when the motor 
gets heated.  I'm right now writing a teardown list capping all this up and 
will post it soon for you all.
Cya 
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> bearing was sooo loose that I had to dimple the
> shaft to snug it up so it wasn't loose.

> 
> I use a knurler to bring up the diameter of a slightly undersized
> shaft journals. I see shafts where people put 10 dimmples with a
> prick punch. This can cause your bearing to sit unevenly on the
> shaft and also leaves the bearing on little risers, and not resting
> on the shaft. In a pinch for all the in-house guys without the
> proper tooling use an old file with teeth on the thin edge. Lightly
> rap the shaft with even small blows on the thin edge of the file.
> This will leave really small lines like a knurl and you can get a
> good even amount of build up from end to shoulder. A lot of small
> file teeth lines are better than just a few large puch dimmples. Use
> some loc-tite to secure it and this will serve you better than using
> a punch. 


Another thought on the situation... tolerances..

Say for example, the spec on the motor shaft can range anywhere from
xx to xx(whatever the numbers are).

The motor shaft in question might be of the smallest size and still
fall within spec.

Now with the bearings, exact same thing. Can range anywhere from xx to xx.

If you had a bearing that was the absolute smallest tolerance allowed,
would the shaft and bearing fit up properly then?


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey thats half a twin I see there in the motor dept.  Nice car nice web page
Cya 
Jim husted
Hi-Torque Elctric

Steve Marks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi All,

I just posted the latest pictures received from the builder at
http://www.ghiamonster.com/tasks.html . Towards the bottom of the page
in the section marked "Component Placement Changes" there's a "Before"
and "After" segment. In the "After" segment towards the bottom of the
list of pictures, images of the motors and batteries can be found
mounted in the vehicle with the body placed on the frame. Also mounted
is the steering mechanism.

The builder of the Ghiamonster, Ron Lummus from Ron Lummus Racing (
http://www.ronlummusracing.com ) had
some interesting news for me when he called. It seems he and Jesse
James got together to film an episode of Monster Garage called "Old
School Bug" which is supposed to air sometime near the end of August -
http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/apcm/templates/news_template.asp?article
id=5475&zoneid=11 . Apparently, when Jesse visited Ron's shop, he was
much interested in what he saw of the Ghiamonster. Ron says they took
some video and that it just *might* get some air time on the show so
don't forget to put your DVRs on alert. Oh, and while you're at it,
make sure to record any NHRA Sport Compact competitions you see as Ron
is likely to be there taking first or second place in the "Hot Rod"
class in his FWD Pontiac Sunfire -
http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/2005/drivers/r_lummus.html
http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/2005/stats/2005scorecard.html

Steve

The information contained in this email message is being transmitted to and is 
intended for the use of only the individual(s) to whom it is addressed. If the 
reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby advised 
that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this message is strictly 
prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please immediately 
delete. 


                
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Sports
 Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Greetings EVDL Folks...

Time is short...   Greenwood Car Show is comin' up quick....

I be rollin' in at 6am or so at the parking lot on 50th just east of (under) Aurora in Woodland Park (north side of street). It is a dirt lot where all the EV folks will be parking their trailers. I will be there to help get folks in. (I used to live in this neighborhood and it is my old garage sale stomping grounds so I know where all the streets are and all the shortcuts)

I even have radios for folks to use. I have a folding ebike that can be tossed in a vehicle to facilitate transport.

Madman wrote:
Note...need E-brake
And don't get caught needing reverse...
There are a host of other "improvements" that would make life in Gp a bit
less of a adventure....

Madman

Need E-brake?
Adventure is right with no E-brake  :-o
Whadda ya gonna do?
Jump out and put a block under the wheel when you want to park it?

(most likely to happen when Tom or I go to park it or move it on Saturday. Dog forbid [:^D] if we have a main braking system failure with a 4500 lb. vehicle on a steep hill and no ebrake. There are a lot of those steep hills in the immediate area.)

Did you guys ever make those controls [brake and other pedals] more human-friendly? (Bad Ergo Roderick!) I am lucky/unlucky enough to be one of the few folks that have driven Gone Postal :-0. (as a matter of fact, I was the one that said to Roderick at the Lacey Alternative Fuel Fair a couple of years ago... "Hey Rod! Check out that electric postal van for sale!" This ended up being the base vehicle for Gone Postal)

I know that the front tranny (read reverse) is a box of rocks, but it still sorta works, don't it? Has no one cracked it open since Rod cashed/cracked/crunched/sheared/slammed/broke it last Woodburn? :-o

Do we need to actually hook a strap to it if we wanna go backwards?

Dude! E-brake is number one safety issue in an EV.

Can't you get it operational for us?

I will betcha that not only will I have to wipe all the bird s&*t off of GP, I will also have to mop it down with multiple diapers and lots of Windex after not being detailed for months. I will betcha that I will be runnin' to the local NAPA on the ebike for the bits and pieces to fix the ebrake. :-o

A good time is certain to be had by all!

:^D

(!!!!Top Secret Bar-B-Q at Steve Lough's place after the EVent!)

Hoping to see all the EVDL folks that can make it on Saturday.

Info here-
http://www.greenwood-phinney.com/pages/special_events/carshow.asp

At the risk of repeating myself...

Folks tell me that this is the largest car show in the Pacific Northwest, and anywhere north of California.

I dig it [participate] most every year :^D (I missed the one when Roderick's street rod won best of show) and I love to EVangelize to the hundreds/thousands of folks that attend this event.

Tomorrow I will be making many more give-away-with-links business cards so I don't run out again :^D

Be There!

.




Roy LeMeur
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.cloudelectric.com
http://www.dcelectricsupply.com

Cloud Electric Vehicles
19428 66th Ave So, Q-101
Kent, Washington  98032

phone:  425-251-6380
fax:  425-251-6381
Toll Free:  800-648-7716




My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html

Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html

EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I once did some research on composite panel constructions and decided to avoid the combination of aluminum honeycomb and carbon fiber.

Aluminum honeycomb and s-glass is just fine.

In order to use it you really must use pre-preg and basically you bake your outerskin in the vacumm bag then install a layer of "neat resin" then your honeycomb and your outer skin an re-bake If it is really critical you go...outside,bake,neat+honeycomb,bake,outside,bake. The neat resin prevents filling in your honeycomb, it looks like a gelatin sheet.

Now here is the tricky part: Carbon fiber can't touch aluminum it causes a galvanic corosion. So another layer of fiberglass is needed. Moisture will creap in and corode the aluminum, good for 5 years, maybe 10 but no non destructive way to check for damage on like a car body.
Mounting something(drilling a hole) will accelerate this
nomex is paper and can also absorb moisture. So that leaves polyethleen honeycomb or foam. Foam may be heavier, but one layup is possible and it may last longer in the high vibration application of an EV
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Caps on. I sent you the spec. sheet Bill. That should cover everything. LR............ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: NiCd question


I've got the Marathon BB600's (might even be your old ones, Ed). So now I'm
confused.  Do they get charged with the caps on or off?

Thanks.

Bill Dennis


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tactical fighter jets.  Oh yes..........LR............
----- Original Message ----- From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: NiCd question


Ok, but is there a problem with keeping the caps LOOSE so that pressure doesn't build up? Would that cause problems? Are the caps so tight just because these cells were used in situations where they could get inverted for short times?

At 08:58 AM 6/23/2005, Edward Ang wrote:
They bulge mainly from gassing not from water
generated during recharge.  The valves on the caps
would only work if a higher pressure were present in
the cells.  And, these valves are not design to hold a
vacuum.

These cells started to gas way before a full charge.

--
John G. Lussmyer      mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---

----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: My Blog is now up! Take a look!


Mark Ward wrote:

I got my Blog started today for my EV project. There are a couple of photos
of my 95 Saab.
> Maybe I missed it in an earlier post, but what are your preliminary plans?

Motor - AC or DC and size?
Netgain or ADC 9" dual shaft with taperlock to fit my automatic transmission

Which controller or inverter?
Zilla 1K  (no whiners for me)  liquid cooled

Battery type and amount?
Optima Yellow Tops or Possibly Trojan 12V each 144V total (this depends on what I have spent by the time I need them)

floor, racks or boxes?

Main battery pack in Hatch/trunk compartment. It should be large enough and St. Louis Spring will make larger coils if I need them. I will secure these with both a box and clamping system to the integral frame. The suspension & integral frame on this car is all muscle and not puny. No problem with weight. Spare tire gets taken out.

2 super sized marine batteries for 12V system under hood with onboard 35 amp Astron Regulated 13.8V power supply. (Batts will hold as long as main pack with full load, hopefully) I can add a DC converter later if I need it.

I'd leave the automatics converter "as is" and try it that way.

After discussing it a lot, it will be left intact. In fact I am going to get a "junker" transmission to set on the bench and work out the motor adapter so I don't have to pull mine. I am willing to accept some loss to keep the car close to original in operation and appearance. I would rather not hack up the interior which is basically perfect, trying to rig an MT.

Other features that I am incorporating.

Zivan Charger (not sure which model yet) On board

Power steering pump run from opposite end of motor (still considering toyota electric pump)
Thomas 12V vaccum pump for Power brake system (on hand by next week)
Air conditioning via direct coupled shaft to a Leeson 1.5 hp DC PM treadmill motor (120v) I have on hand (this is further down the road). Permanently mounted mobile processor pc with LCD display and RS-232 interface to "observe" all aspects possible. Individual battery metering, etc. This will also be my MP3/DVD player. I can write my own software for this...no problemo. Heater-undecided...possibly the "boiler" type that hooks to you existing heater hoses.
SUV type transmission cooler.

Things I have eliminated so far....
Gas tank and filler tube and fuel lines
Air pump under left front fender
cylinder heads, manifold, injectors, camshafts
radiator (today)

Lots of grease! Thanks to my neighbor and his fantastic soap www.safenclean.com , his 3000psi power washer and an hour of time!

Till later,

Mark




--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 22 Jun 2005 at 19:01, Catherine C. Burgard wrote:

> Intermitant buzzing,  it's coming from under the seat where all of my
> components are.

Did I miss something?  What kind of vehicle is this?  Sounds like it might 
be a Citicar or Comuta-Car, but I can't really be sure. Maybe you posted 
something earlier and I didn't read it?

> What about the cylinoid thing next to the bus bar?

Sorry - what does "cylnoid" mean?  And what bus bar would this be?  It might 
help if you could post some photos somewhere.


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me.  To 
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I just realized I hadn't mentioned it but I have a large, old industrial water cooled tig AC/DC with many other features that I will sell for $ 200.00 . Its single phase, no foot control or torch. I might have an old water cooled torch that I will throw in if I can find it. IIRC its a 500 amp unit. Appears complete and I was told it is functional but I have never used it. Was going to use it for high amperage work but that job didn't pan out and I am out of room. Located in Phx Az. Please reply Offlist. David Chapman.

----- Original Message ----- From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: Welders for Sale


At 11:43 AM 23/06/05 -0700, Don wrote:
Gee, Boeing Surplus only has 6 used welders for sale...

http://active.boeing.com/assocproducts/surplus/cfm/select_v4.cfm

Oh wow... Just as well I'm half a planet away... all the other STUFF....

Big welders, though. If one can be got for a good enough price, and have the space, why not?

Would have to go and look, see what else is with each lot. Might me worth as much in accessories with it as the power source.

And there are transformers, and chargers without voltages listed....pant, pant..

James


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Controller, DC/DC, volt meter. I am upgrading to 144. The 120v components are on the EV trading post. If you are looking to trade Gemini, Bladez & other scooters are up for trade. Trade a controller for a blazing hillclimbing scooter? Help the wrecked Aspire get back on the road. All offers/trades/cash considered
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What battery weighs 300 lbs, and can produce 100kW for 15 seconds?

A mechanical one:
http://www.afstrinity.com/specs.html

I suppose it's more like an ultracapacitor really.

-- 

EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not a battery- its a flywheel generator.

Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:What battery weighs 300 lbs, and can 
produce 100kW for 15 seconds?

A mechanical one:
http://www.afstrinity.com/specs.html

I suppose it's more like an ultracapacitor really.

-- 

EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You answered correctly, sadly there is no prize :)

On 6/24/05, Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Not a battery- its a flywheel generator.
> 
> Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:What battery weighs 300 lbs, and can 
> produce 100kW for 15 seconds?
> 
> A mechanical one:
> http://www.afstrinity.com/specs.html
> 
> I suppose it's more like an ultracapacitor really.
> 
> --
> 
> EVan
> http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> 


-- 

EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The "Tidalforce M-750X Electric bike 25 MPH "
listed on Ebay, item #7164701699 has lithium batteries
mounted in the front wheel.
Does anybody have pictures or a description of how
they are making electrical contact?
I assume they are using something similar to a
commutator, but that seems kind of inefficient
compared to just attaching them to the frame.
Rod

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6/24/05, Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The "Tidalforce M-750X Electric bike 25 MPH "
> listed on Ebay, item #7164701699 has lithium batteries
> mounted in the front wheel.
> Does anybody have pictures or a description of how
> they are making electrical contact?
> I assume they are using something similar to a
> commutator, but that seems kind of inefficient
> compared to just attaching them to the frame.

Well, maybe the batteries are fixed to the spindle, and the wheel (and
casing) revolves around it?  Otherwise, yes, slip rings.
But what a mad place to put the batteries!  Whatever structure holds
the cells and electronics in place must get hammered to pieces if you
actually use it off road, and having all that mass in the front wheel
is going to make it really sketchy to ride at any speed on rough
stuff.
Why didn't they put the batteries in that big chunky frame tube?  

"These bikes were developed for miltary use.  They have folding frames
so paratroopers can use them when jumping to remote locations."
BS detector "on"!

-- 

EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dear list members.

Sorry this took such a long time, but I've just converted my "Word" BMS
article/report into a PDF file so more people can access it.

Download from my site at 

www.solarvan.co.uk

link on home page.

Regards

Peter Perkins

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Cost? They charge you for the decals? I thought CA liked to reward ZEV with price cuts on registration, tax breaks on power and charging stations? Or am I mis-informed?

George S. wrote:

At 06:54 PM 6/22/05 -0700, you wrote:

My California ZEV parking sticker arrived today -- number 211.  From
this I surmise that the ZEV sticker program is not all that popular.

Brian
http://www.skewray.com/alfa


A lot of EV drivers don't seem to know about the parking sticker requirement, and I don't think anyone will get a ticket from parking an EV at a charger. These stickers also cost more than the clean air decals for the carpool lane.
I have sticker #178 on one of my EVs.

George S.



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- http://www.fireflyenergy.com/ffy.html 1/10 the cost of advanced batteries. Let's hope.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I have over 200(210) BB600 batteries. I will sell for 1800 or trade for a 144v controller and DC/DC.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrance,

I have a Curtis controller 500A 96-144V.  I am willing
to let it go for $1000.

Ed Ang

--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Controller, DC/DC, volt meter.  I am upgrading to
> 144.  The 120v components 
> are on the EV trading post.  If you are looking to
> trade Gemini, Bladez & 
> other scooters are up for trade.  Trade a controller
> for a blazing 
> hillclimbing scooter?  Help the wrecked Aspire get
> back on the road.  All 
> offers/trades/cash considered
> Lawrence Rhodes
> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> Reedmaker
> Book 4/5 doubler
> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 415-821-3519 
> 
> 



                
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail 
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: 
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Need a couple new Panasonic LCX 1220 AP  batteries ( or equivelant )
L=7.125"  H=6.625"  W=3"
Got prices from Digi-Key of around $45. and from a place called PowerFactor for around $55.
Any body know of a BETTER price, or equivelant brand / type / etc.

Its a Black-n-Decker cordless 19" mower... I know this has come UP on the list before.....
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle,  WA  98115-7230
Day:  206 850-8535
Eve:  206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web:     http://www.seattleeva.org

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob,
As you may recall I have a tracker with a K&W charger.  How does one go
about doing an equalization charge with the K&W?
Also, I haven't driven the tracker in a while, but have charged the pack
every so often, so I am thinking that I have to go through the break-in
period. Is that correct?

BTW I installed my new motor in the S-10 soon it is time for a new pack. 

Thanks,
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Bath [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 11:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: New bat pack break-in

Hi there!
  Doesn't look like you've gotten many responses yet,
so here goes.
If I recall, the T125s are a 6V battery.  That means 3
cells per battery.  
3 cells, x 24 batteries is 72 cells.  If I did my math
correctly, you're running 144 volts.
You want to charge to around 2.65 volts per cell. 
(This will vary a bit depending on temperature).
72 cells times 2.65 is 191 volts.  That is the maximum
charge.  Your charger should taper the amps down and
the voltage should rise beginning at about 180 volts
or less.

   When you're breaking in the new pack, no hard
current draws, (ie, leadfooting it) such that the pack
voltage drops below 126.  This is called reversing
cells and will shorten the life of your pack.  So take
it for short spins, increasing in length, for about 10
charge/discharge cycles.  Other people will probably
chime in with more particulars, but this is the
general framework that you'll be in.

Equalize (8 amps until all the cells give the same
specific gravity reading) about every 10 cycles.

Best to you.

--- Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> I have a friend that just got a new battery pack, 24
> T-125's, we're going to put them in today. He bought
> a conversion from the EV list, a Ram -50 with a 9"
> ADC, Auburn C600 controller, K&W BC-20 charger,
> Sevcon DC-DC. Batteries were very dead...
> 
> How should the pack be broken in? 
> 
> What should the charger be set at?
> 
> Any other helpful info about the components would be
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
> 
> 


'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V 
                                   ____ 
                     __/__|__\ __        
           =D-------/   -  -     \      
                     'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark,
I have the service manual for a 92 tracker.  It is very complete; you may
want to pick one of these up for your model year. I'm the 92 version there
is no mention of different sizes for the rears.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hanson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 7:01 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Brake Beefup Question

Howdy folk's

I noticed that a (96') Geo tracker 4-door had bigger brakes than a 2-door
which is what my brake challenged conversion is at 3900 lbs.  It's
interesting to note that the front disc rotor is the *same* diameter, only
thicker, dual disc with inside vent for cooling.  The rear drums are 2"
greater in diameter than mine.  So I assume that changing the front disc
rotors would have no effect in quicker stopping (onless I had extended
braking like down Pike's Peak (where I used to live).  Changing the rear
should have a noticible effect on reduced stopping distance in a panic stop.
I already disabled the rear pressure regulator but the whimpy rears are only
7" diam and would goto 9".  Has anyone done this and will 4-door Geo-Tracker
brakes & plates bolt up (swap) with a 2-door?  I have a 4-wheel drive model
I assume brakewise it's the same as a 2-wheel drive?

Thanks, Mark


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
While it is a neat advertisement it looks to be snake oil- "Look at the 
oportunities and markets this can lead to" And then lots of pictures and no 
technical information. Metallic Power did the same thing. Now they are belly 
up. Sorry but no product is suggested just market oportunities and some 
General's comment. 

Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:http://www.fireflyenergy.com/ffy.html 
1/10 the cost of advanced batteries. 
Let's hope.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519 




Future 72 Super Beetle conversion in progress
                
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Sports
 Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I thought this looked famillure....
It's got my name on it, it better.

Geez I was hacking Curtii 10 years ago...
That explains the Gray white lack of hair problem....

Madman
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 10:13 AM
Subject: curtis 1221 current limit curcuit


> I'm replacing the Curtis control board with one
> of mine and using the existing power components and
> heatsink.
> The Curtis schematic is here;
> http://cafeelectric.com/curtis/curtisschematic.pdf
> 
> Curtis detects saturation voltage and runs this
> through
> a comparator to shut off the MOSFET when current
> exceeds its limit.  The reference voltage for shut off
> can be lowered by the thermal circuit.  
> In normal operation, does anybody know what the
> reference voltage is on pin 3 of U7A?
> What do they lower this voltage too when the control
> gets too hot?
> Thanks,
> Rod
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roy dude..
    don't forget we never had a Ebrake in that thing. You can't fix what's
not there.
Yes Gp will come with a handy 4 by 4 block or wood Ebrake.

I think in  a real pinch the front drive could get us out of a bad spot. But
make it does sound like a rock crucher even in nuetral.

I have a run on it as of dark last night, the Orbs seam to be doing just
fine. The PFC40L did it's first real charge cycle on Gp. It will be on board
with cheater cables for 240 volts 50 amps and 30 amps and 120 VAC at 15
amps. So... you guys have plans A B and C for charging if you have to. And
YES that little charger does have a 50 amp 14-50 plug on it just like the
PFC50s have. I will have it plumbed into the Zilla water circuits this
morning.
    Note to Roy. DON'T run the charger and the DC to DC at the same time....
300 VDC is just a bit more than the Iota can handle. We smoked one last
year. Of course the pumps need to be on to cool the charger...... Oh boy...
What fun Gp needs a preflight and inflight check list so we don't let the
smoke out of anything.....

I will be there with Tom True to drive it to the event.... and then Tom will
recover it.
Ricky then gets it back to Kitsap next monday.
Other fun... the Kingston ferry run is down one boat.  ZOO mode in my small
home town.
Summer friday night.... God I hope they get the old Walla Walla humpin'
before the evening's commute.
I have to be on the 5:10 AM to make the 6:30 roll in time at the show. This
makes for a really early Saturday....


Madman.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: Gp Lives at Greenwood


> Greetings EVDL Folks...
>
> Time is short...   Greenwood Car Show is comin' up quick....
>
> I be rollin' in at 6am or so at the parking lot on 50th just east of
(under)
> Aurora in Woodland Park (north side of street). It is a dirt lot where all
> the EV folks will be parking their trailers. I will be there to help get
> folks in. (I used to live in this neighborhood and it is my old garage
sale
> stomping grounds so I know where all the streets are and all the
shortcuts)
>
> I even have radios for folks to use. I have a folding ebike that can be
> tossed in a vehicle to facilitate transport.
>
> Madman wrote:
> >Note...need E-brake
> >And don't get caught needing reverse...
> >There are a host of other "improvements" that would make life in Gp a bit
> >less of a adventure....
> >
> >Madman
>
> Need E-brake?
> Adventure is right with no E-brake  :-o
> Whadda ya gonna do?
> Jump out and put a block under the wheel when you want to park it?
>
> (most likely to happen when Tom or I go to park it or move it on Saturday.
> Dog forbid [:^D] if we have a main braking system failure with a 4500 lb.
> vehicle on a steep hill and no ebrake. There are a lot of those steep
hills
> in the immediate area.)
>
> Did you guys ever make those controls [brake and other pedals] more
> human-friendly? (Bad Ergo Roderick!) I am lucky/unlucky enough to be one
of
> the few folks that have driven Gone Postal  :-0. (as a matter of fact, I
was
> the one that said to Roderick at the Lacey Alternative Fuel Fair a couple
of
> years ago... "Hey Rod! Check out that electric postal van for sale!" This
> ended up being the base vehicle for Gone Postal)
>
> I know that the front tranny (read reverse) is a box of rocks, but it
still
> sorta works, don't it? Has no one cracked it open since Rod
> cashed/cracked/crunched/sheared/slammed/broke it last Woodburn? :-o
>
> Do we need to actually hook a strap to it if we wanna go backwards?
>
> Dude! E-brake is number one safety issue in an EV.
>
> Can't you get it operational for us?
>
> I will betcha that not only will I have to wipe all the bird s&*t off of
GP,
> I will also have to mop it down with multiple diapers and lots of Windex
> after not being detailed for months. I will betcha that I will be runnin'
to
> the local NAPA on the ebike for the bits and pieces to fix the ebrake.
:-o
>
> A good time is certain to be had by all!
>
> :^D
>
> (!!!!Top Secret Bar-B-Q at Steve Lough's place after the EVent!)
>
> Hoping to see all the EVDL folks that can make it on Saturday.
>
> Info here-
> http://www.greenwood-phinney.com/pages/special_events/carshow.asp
>
> At the risk of repeating myself...
>
> Folks tell me that this is the largest car show in the Pacific Northwest,
> and anywhere north of California.
>
> I dig it [participate] most every year :^D (I missed the one when
Roderick's
> street rod won best of show) and I love to EVangelize to the
> hundreds/thousands of folks that attend this event.
>
> Tomorrow I will be making many more give-away-with-links business cards so
I
> don't run out again  :^D
>
> Be There!
>
> .
>
>
>
>
> Roy LeMeur
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.cloudelectric.com
> http://www.dcelectricsupply.com
>
> Cloud Electric Vehicles
> 19428 66th Ave So, Q-101
> Kent, Washington  98032
>
> phone:  425-251-6380
> fax:  425-251-6381
> Toll Free:  800-648-7716
>
>
>
>
> My Electric Vehicle Pages:
> http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
>
> Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
> http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
>
> EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
> http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nice idea.
Need a G60 Carrado VW tranny.

I really need to get the tranny number off the case, and talk to Robert
Salem as to what he would recomend we do to the inside parts.

I don't even know where the case number is on that thing.

I intend to have a stocker tranny in it as soon as one gets dropped on my
foot.

The sooner the better.

Then if Rod wants to buy the "$5K semi automatic" Rally tranny in it, that's
OK, But in the mean time I have a show car that drives a bit sainer....

Madman


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: Gp Lives


> Rich Rudman wrote:
>
> > Man I miss the tranny..
>
> How about a stock one from a salvage yard as a temp solution?
>
>
> >Note...need E-brake
>
> Is there some way to rig up a line-loc to be used if the vehicle needs
> to stay in one spot momentarily?
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:

> the pumps need to be on to cool the charger.

How about have the pump(s) run off the incoming AC?  Or do they?

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Perhaps because with them in the wheel changing batteries would simply mean changing the wheel. Just a guess.


Why didn't they put the batteries in that big chunky frame tube?

"These bikes were developed for miltary use.  They have folding frames
so paratroopers can use them when jumping to remote locations."
BS detector "on"!

--

EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2


--- End Message ---

Reply via email to