EV Digest 4632
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Transmissions...
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Solectria E-10
by Scott Fleischhauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Emeter RS232 - Palm M100 EVDash?
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Todd DC/DC Converter
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Transmissions...
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Deka Dominators to a good home
by Scott Fleischhauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: E-Meter, Ah counters, who needs 'em?
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) What happened to EverCel?
by Sam Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Transmissions...
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Todd DC/DC Converter
by "evranger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: driving habits
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Raptor, ammeter, was: Re: Transmissions...
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Build an Induction Charging System
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: What happened to EverCel?
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) NEDRA gets WIRED (again)
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) precharge resistor
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Gear Ratios
by [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Chris Buresh)
19) Re: driving habits
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) New Here
by "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) White Zombie HV connectors
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: White Zombie HV connectors
by "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: White Zombie HV connectors
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: New Here
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Raptor, ammeter, was: Re: Transmissions...
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: New Here
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Nick....you had a bad Raptor.
healthy Raptor 1200s made 1600 amps for 1/2 second then dropped back to
1200 and change for about 15 seconds.
The Raptor 600s Could and did make 900 amps for the first 1/2 Second then
dropped back to 600 for the main power plateau.
This I have seen and watched the the actuall test and tune. In fact I have
done it....
So what you saw and what the product was supposed to do are two entirely
different things.
I have a Raptor 1200 many years old that will spike to over 1000 amps with
ease even on 96 volts of very soft and tired Optimas.
In fact I have a T-Rex 1000 that does 960 amp launches...right now.
So hold your tounge... they did it, and still do it if you got the right
ones with a sturdy Soul installed.
Not all met this critieria... and I had no control over that.
Sorry.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
Ex Vp of DCP
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Viera" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Transmissions...
> Hi,
>
> Justin Southam wrote:
> > 60lbft @ 400amps (curtis 1221)
> > 84lbft @ 500amps (curtis 1231)
> > 150lbft @ 750amps (Raptor 600 which peaks at 900amps in motor loop)
>
> Where did you hear that Raptor 600s will do 900 motor Amps? The one I
> owned _never_ did more than 600 Amps in the motor loop.
>
> --
> -Nick
> http://Go.DriveEV.com/
> 1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
> ---------------------------
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>Jacob,
>Do you now have an E-10?
>I recently sold mine and have the original manual.
>Mine is a 5th edition, 52 pages, for a 1995 truck.
>Could you deal with .jpg images? I've considered scanning it so >that I would
>be protected against loss of the original.
>Don Buckshot
>Kansas City, Missouri
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Behalf Of Jacob
>Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 11:55 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Solectria E-10 manual?
>Hi all, if any one of you has a Solectria E-10 owners manual, I'd >happily
>pay you to copy it (including your time) and have it shipped. >Thanks
>Jacob Harris
Don,
I just purchased an e-10 and would like to have a copy of your manual if
possible.
if anyone else has information on solectria e-10's please let me know(yes I am
a newbee to ev's). Mine is equipped with the Hughes Magnacharger and the
onboard charger is missing
question: does anybody know if the magnacharger (the two modules are still in
the truck for the magnacharger and I have a wall mount magnacharger) can be
used without the solectria onboard charger?
thanks, Scott
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.ohler.com/palm/EVDash.html
Gives some setup instructions. Seems like you gotta input some pack info
before it will show any information... I think, hehe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hastings" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: Emeter RS232 - Palm M100 EVDash?
I selected serial from the EVDash software and tried new and record and the
menu items. That is why I'm wondering if it is a hardware/cable problem. Or
maybe my emeters RS232 port is just a decoration.
Mark McCurdy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:You'll probably need to tell it
where to get it's data from (RS232) and what
information to dispaly, but that's just a guess, I don't know a thing
about
that particular piece of software but from my experience, you have to tell
the software where to look for the input and what you want it to do with
that input.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hastings"
To:
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 11:29 AM
Subject: Emeter RS232 - Palm M100 EVDash?
I have a Palm M100 with a serial port cable. I synched it up to my
computer
so I know it works. My emeter has the RS232 so I tried to use it. The
Emeter/Link10 was only on 12 volts of batteries.
I started up the EVDash Program and it just shows 0's like it isn't
getting any data. Reading through the emeter guide there is no switch to
turn on the port it always is on. Is there something I need to do to the
input cable to work?
THe PalmM100 I bought specifically for that and I have nothing else to
connect to the emeter to try it out.
Thanks,
Mark Hastings
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Nick Viera wrote:
Was it the best
DC/DC converter ever made?
Based on the one I own, I'd say certainly not, at least not for EV
use. It's problems include making annoying noises when lightly loaded,
having terrible reaction times to changing loads and transient
voltages, having a narrow input voltage range, and being built such
that it is completely unprotected from the elements.
On the other hand....Based on the eight I currently own, I'd say they
were a revolutionary step up for EV use. Long before any other type of
readily available, prepackaged supplies that could work on an EV's
higher voltage DC power supply were available, the Todd DC-DC supplies
were a blessing that transformed our conversions, literally from the
dark ages into the brightly lit world of a well sustained 12V car
system. Gone was that big, ugly 50 lb. RV battery under the hood that
took up valuable real estate needed for another traction battery and
that sagged to sub 12V levels ever deeper as one drove into the night,
not-so-bright headlights dimming and flickering every time one turned on
the wipers, the heater blower, or god forbid, a stereo system with some
guts. Minus a Todd under the hood, driving your EV at night was a
miserable dim experience. With the Todd, suddenly your EV had a crisp
14.5V on tap providing brilliant nighttime illumination for the entire
trip, fast sweeping wipers, etc. Even as the traction pack sags with
every mile driven, the Todd keeps jamming 14.5V.
As to the problem of making annoying noises when lightly loaded, I say
that's the exception, not the rule. I've had exactly one Todd make this
reported noise....keep in mind, I've owned perhaps 30 Todds in my EV
lifetime. I did hear one in Lee Hart's LeCar that indeed, talked a lot,
but it seemed right at home with his squeal inducing Curtis :-) For the
most part, they are silent performers. The PC 40HV under the hood of
Blue Meanie has been in service for I think, 9 years now....not a single
failure, though its output voltage trim pot needed cleaning once. The
custom made super compact 35 amp fan cooled models that Todd built for
me (5 of them in total) made no switching noises...there's one in the
trunk of Blue Meanie that kicks on when the competition grade stereo is
brought on line
Having terrible reaction times to changing loads and transient voltages?
I haven't noticed this at all...turn on the heater blower, and the Todd
reacts instantly and keeps the system right at 14.3-14.5V, play the
sound system with four hungry amps sucking variable power, the two Todds
keep up just fine. A narrow input voltage range? Perhaps for today's
newer conversions that's true, but for 120V - 156V vehicles, the Todds
work from around 100V to up to 195V (a fully charged 156V pack). That's
a 100V wide input range, hardly what I'd call a narrow input voltage
range. Is there a need today for a wider range? Yes. I've got that
problem right now in White Zombie, who's 348V pack can sag as low as
205V or so under full-on acceleration, and raise to 450V at full charge
levels. Finally, as to being built such that it is completely
unprotected from the elements, that's true, but certainly poses no
problems at all if one designs their EV with pride and uses a thoughtful
approach. Again, I call attention to Blue Meanie, a car that despite
what some think, gets driven a lot in all types of weather, including
lots of Oregon rain! Did I mount the Todd in the path of road spray and
water? Of course not. It is however, under the hood, but protected by
its 'thoughtful' location.
Yeah, there's room for improvement. A more compact sealed design with
Deutsch style water proof connectors would be nice (like a Sure Power
Products). An input voltage that spans 200-450V would be nice. 50-75
amps at a a two stage adjustable output range of 13 - 14.5V would be
nice. And of course, a $300 price tag would make it nice, too. Absent
this perfect supply, the Todd models still work great for most EVs.
I'm currently modifying a 2nd generation 30 amp Todd to work in White
Zombie. This is the model that has the voltage doubler type power input
circuit that is designed for AC power inputs and generally makes it
unusable in a DC powered EV. However, you can take it apart and tap into
it after the doubler where the 450V cap bank is to hook up your DC
input. Here, the Todd will work well from 288V - near 450V. I plan on
having its power input control contactor drop out when the Zombie's
throttle is floored and trips a microswitch, so that the car's sagged
pack is disconnected for the brief moment of a 12 second full throttle
experience. During that time, the backup 12V battery that was just at
14.5V will carry the system load and probably only fall to the mid 13V
range. After the acceleration blast with the throttle not floored
anymore, the converter will be turned on again. A perfect solution? No,
but it saves me money right now since I've got this Todd in stock.
I say, the Todd DC-DCs were excellent, still are, and if you can find
one cheap, I'd buy it. Unlike a funky Vicor module that needs all sorts
of external support in the form of control circuits, an enclosure, and
connection terminals, Todds all came as a bolt in unit, with nice beefy
output terminals that you can insert up to 4 gauge wire into and secure
with a simply slot screw. The new IOTA supplies seem to be a modern
version of a Todd and from what I've seen, are also very nice units.
See Ya.......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
>soft and tired Optimas.
I'm just curious. If you ever replace your pack, will it be with the
same model Optima, or maybe the Deka AGM or Exide?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tom,
do you still have these batteries? I might be interested in them, I just joined
the evdl and found this post
>I have 24, Group 24, 8G24NH (No Handle) Deka Dominators available >free
>for anyone who wants them and will come get them. These served in >my
>Solectria E-10 pickup for the last five years and while their >capacity
>is down somewhat, they are in really good shape (no bulging, good
>voltages, etc.). From day 1 these were operated with PowerCheq >voltage
>balancers to keep the pack in balance and it shows. These might be >good
>batteries for someone testing a vehicle or even for someone wanting >a
>big honking battery backup bank. I'm replacing them because my >truck's
>range has dropped -- I would guess you can get ~20Ah out of them at
>ordinary EV driving currents.
>If nobody wants 'em, they'll just get hauled to my local battery >shop
>for recycling, which would be kind of a waste.
>I'm just North of Milwaukee WI. Please contact me off list if you >want
>them.
>-Tom
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In the amp-hr meter I made for monitoring my camper van's deep cycle, I
made the decision to go with an "AH used" rather than "AH remaining"
readout.
Of course they're basically the same information. On one case you have
to think about how much power was used by remembering the total
capacity, in the other case you have to think about total capacity to
figure out how much is left.
Since it's a flooded plate lead acid, I didn't like the mode of how many
AH are left until it's totally dead because I didn't plan to ever use
its ultimate capacity. Rather, 50%-70% was a preferred DOD but I didn't
prefer putting that up as a starting capacity. And the usable capacity
changes with temp and age as well. Nor could I depend on the mfg's
marking really, for all I know that 100 AH battery could be 85 AH or 115
AH. On the last camping trip with my old battery I ran out at only 50
AH used even though it was doing C/20 so the battery mfg's spec was
irrelevant. If I had a display of "AH remaining", I'd probably be
wondering now "Was that back when I used 100 AH of starting capacity or
when I went with 70 AH because it was a better limit?" In the end I
think I got a better understand of the battery and when to charge it
with the "AH used" as the top number.
Danny
Roland Wiench wrote:
With my E-meter, I program it for AH. My batteries are 260 AH. I first enter 260 AH which then counts down to about 120 AH which is normally my charge point which is about 50% charged.
Later I enter 200 AH and charge it when its get down to 100 AH.
I find that I used about 100 AH out of the batteries before I charged so:
Now I used 100 AH and fill it up at 0 AH. Think as it is 100% to 0% gage. Nice thing about this, I could go to
minus (-50) on the E-meter and still go.
Now when I charge the batteries, I watch the AH counter going from 0 to 100.
When its at 100, than I stop charging which is normally 15 volts per 12 volt
battery or 7.5 per 6 volt battery.
Roland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So whatever happened to Evercel? I assume they went under while I was
off the list.
-Sam
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There is a pack of Exide Orbitals on the test bench being exercised before
installation.
There was one runt in the litter.
Installation date has not been set.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: Transmissions...
> Rich Rudman wrote:
>
> >soft and tired Optimas.
>
> I'm just curious. If you ever replace your pack, will it be with the
> same model Optima, or maybe the Deka AGM or Exide?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd have to agree with Nick. I *had* a Todd in my conversion that was
"thoughtfully" located under the hood. It failed twice in the first year. If
you look at how they are constructed, it's obvious they were designed to be
inside a nice dry RV. In my EV the under hood area is somewhat sealed off
from the elements, but there's still moisture present and it's my daily
commuter so I drive all year round, rain or shine in an area that gets
40inches/year. My failures were due to obvious metal migration between PC
board traces with high potential. I replaced it with a Vicor DC-DC (170-375V
input range) and haven't had any issues since. That was 5 years ago. It may
not be the best available but my experience indicates it's certainly better
than Todd.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Nick Viera
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 8:51 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Todd DC/DC Converter
Hi,
Ryan Stotts wrote:
> What is it anyways?
Umm, haven't you already answered this yourself? It's a Switch Mode
Power Supply DC/DC converter.
> Was it the best
> DC/DC converter ever made?
Based on the one I own, I'd say certainly not, at least not for EV use.
It's problems include making annoying noises when lightly loaded, having
terrible reaction times to changing loads and transient voltages, having
a narrow input voltage range, and being built such that it is completely
unprotected from the elements.
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>> I think the VFD (vacuum fluorescent display) is the best choice
>> for automotive applications from a readability point of view.
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> I have absolutely no issues to use VFD display, but I wanted to
> take advantage of the color info.
VFDs are available in color, too. Most are blue-green (monochrome)
simply because that's the cheapest.
But for your project, the hard part with VFD is that most of them are
custom. You design the display; for example, round with a 4-digit
2-color 7-seg display in the center and bargraph wrapped in a circle
around the outside. Then you pay a tooling charge of several thousand
dollars.
Last time I did this, a Futaba 1.5" x 4" display with a total of 60 blue
and orange segments cost $2.75 each plus $6000 tooling.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ken Olum wrote:
> Could someone point me to the study from which one draws such
> conclusions as "x% of all car trips are less than 40 miles"?
I have a couple of old books that have extensive data on this. One is
"Electric Automobiles" by William Hamilton ISBN 0-07-025735-3; it has
data from a dozen scientific reports from 1959-1976.
The second is "State of the Art Assessment of Electric and Hybrid
Vehicles" by NASA's Lewis Research Center HCP/M1011-01. It has data from
fifteen scientific reports from 1965-1978.
There's an overwhelming amount of data here; hundreds of pages of text,
graphs, charts, etc. You have to summarize to make any sense of it; but
then you lose much of the detail. For example, there are considerable
differences in driving patterns in different cities; between urban,
suburban, and rural drivers; for different age and income groups; and
whether you include commercial driving (trucks, taxis); commuting
to/from work, shopping; or pleasure/vacation driving.
To give you a flavor for it, here's a "summary of the summaries" for
lone commuters to/from work in two major cities; Washington DC (at the
low end of daily miles driven) and Los Angeles (at the high end of daily
miles driven).
Percentage of drivers going that many miles or less:
in Washington DC 40% 70% 95% 99%
in Los Angeles CA 32% 55% 85% 93% 99%
Total daily miles driven: 12 25 60 100 200
For Washington DC, 50% of the drivers go 30 miles or less per day.
For Los Angeles, 50% of the drivers go 40 miles or less per day.
--
Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has! -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 10:37 AM 27/08/05 -0700, Rich wrote:
Nick....you had a bad Raptor.
healthy Raptor 1200s made 1600 amps for 1/2 second then dropped back to
1200 and change for about 15 seconds.
The Raptor 600s Could and did make 900 amps for the first 1/2 Second then
dropped back to 600 for the main power plateau.<snip>
> Where did you hear that Raptor 600s will do 900 motor Amps? The one I
> owned _never_ did more than 600 Amps in the motor loop.
Hi Rich, Nick and all
Sounds more like an instrument thing - 900A for 1/2 a second, then back to
600? In 1/2 a second his ammeter would still be settling.
Nick, I assume this was with an analogue meter? Would/could the meter
response have hidden that half-second?
Of course, Rich could also be right - the controller may have not been
working properly, but if all else about it was fine (no other symptoms) I
think it'd be your instrument rather than the controller.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>> For induction... Saw the transformer in half (figuratively),
>> and put half in the car, and half on a cord or in a plate in
>> the floor. Bring the two halves together, and it works like
>> any other transformer.
Sam Harper wrote:
> How large of an air gap will still work? 12 inches? 24 inches?
For high efficiency, the air gap needs to be small compared to the
cross-sectional area of the windings.
For example, suppose you had a conventional 60hz transformer that is
roughly a 6" cube. That would be good for about 2kw, have an efficiency
of 95%, and its core would have a cross-section of about 2"x2".
If you saw it in two so half the core and the primary are in one piece,
and the other half of the core and secondary are in the other piece, and
place the two pieces tightly together, it will still work the same. It
may buzz or hum a bit more, as the two pieces pull together 120 times
per second, but that's the only effect.
Now put a 0.1" spacer between them. The efficiency will drop to around
90%. This produces twice the heat in the transformer, so now it can only
transfer 1kw instead of 2kw without overheating.
A 12" or 24" air gap would require an *enormous* transformer, many feet
on a side.
> Will higher voltage transformers be more efficient? Is AC or DC more
> effective?
Voltage makes no difference to transformers. It only affects the wire
size and number of turns; not the magnetic coupling.
Transformers only work for AC, not DC.
Going to higher *frequency* AC helps. The higher the frequency, the less
iron you need. But you still can't get spacings between the coils any
more than the diameter of the coils before the coupling gets so low that
the efficiency is too low to bother with.
--
Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has! -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They're still there but moving at a much slower pace than before. Their sales
were kind of low so they downsizes significantly (as did my few shares in stock
I have with them). I did inquire with them on pricing once and never recieved a
reply back.
Sam Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:So whatever happened to Evercel? I assume
they went under while I was
off the list.
-Sam
Later,
Ricky
02 Red Insight #559
92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The September issue of WIRED magazine (the issue featuring Jon Stewart
on the cover) features V is for Voltage coverage of the NEDRA Nationals
electric drag racing championships in Woodburn Oregon.
This is the photo they used:
http://tinyurl.com/bpzbp
It shows Roderick Wilde at the wheel of the Lightning Rod II pulling up
to the line. It is located in WIRED on page 55 at the beginning of the
"Play" section.
WIRED likes electric racing and wanted to give NEDRA some coverage to
help get a larger event turn out. Don't forget these upcoming calendar
events:
http://tinyurl.com/d6kor - September 2nd - Wayland Invitational
http://tinyurl.com/dc39l - September 3rd - Electric Breakfast and Media
Event
http://tinyurl.com/cn74c - September 4th - NEDRA Nationals
Thanks WIRED!
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was working on a fork truck the other day and came across a ptc
(positive temperature coefficient ) resistor used as a precharge
resistor. I liked the idea of using something like this over a light
bulb as it looked more durable.
I was wondering how would I calculate what value to use instead of a
light bulb?
I am planning on a 150 volt system.
Mike G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What is a typical set of gear ratios for a higher performance EV?
My plans currently are:
1977 Corvette
300-348V (Optima/Orbs)
Z1K
Performance similar to stock (210 hp)
Range 30 mi @50 DOD with conservative driving
The information that I can find states the gear ratios from motor to wheel are
(1-4) 9.768, 6.475, 4.958, 3.700. These are dramatically smaller than the
those on Uve's page (including a DeLorean of the same era.)
Should I plan on finding a way to increase the ratios? Uve's page always has
motor RPM as the limit for each gear.
Also, what is the best way to estimate how much weight could be trimmed from
stock before the EV parts are installed? Anyone have an idea for a C3 Corvette?
--
Chris Buresh
St. Paul, MN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Southern California Association of Governments publishes a report
called the State of the Commute.
In 1999, they reported an average one-way commute of 16.2 miles. In
1998, it was 16.1 miles.
Here is the link:
http://www.scag.ca.gov/publications/pdf/SOC_1999.pdf
Richard Kelly
On 8/26/05, Ken Olum kdo-at-cosmos.phy.tufts.edu |vehicle/1.0-Allow|
<...> wrote:
> Could someone point me to the study from which one draws such
> conclusions as "x% of all car trips are less than 40 miles"?
>
> The thing I would really like to be able to determine is this: What
> percentage of cars in America could be replaced with electric cars
> with a range of N miles without any change in driving habits (or with
> families choosing who should drive which car but otherwise going to
> the same places)? I suspect this isn't known because it would require
> asking people the longest trip their car has ever been on or the
> longest trips made simultaneously by all members of their families.
> But I would settle for the question of what percentage of trips are
> within a given range.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ken
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello All!
I'm new to this forum & EV's. I saw "Sucking Amp's" on the Discovery Channel
(least I THINK it was the Discovery Channel) and I've been thinking of
converting my 1998 Ford Windstar to an EV. ANY suggestions would VERY MUCH
appreciated.
Thank you!
John S. Winters
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John,
I was looking thru the Woodburn pics and saw the one that shows what is under
the hood of the White Zombie. What are the connectors that connect the heavy
gauge cables to the motor, Zilla, etc?
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm so new at this I haven't even figured if I want to have a transmission,
AC or DC motor! I understand the theory behind ev's And I'm good with tools
and have worked on MANY a car. But NOTHING like this! What are the Woodburn
pics?
John S. Winters
Confidentiality Notice: This email message, including any attachments,
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-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Rush
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 10:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: White Zombie HV connectors
John,
I was looking thru the Woodburn pics and saw the one that shows what is
under the hood of the White Zombie. What are the connectors that connect the
heavy gauge cables to the motor, Zilla, etc?
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 27 Aug 2005 at 12:43, Osmo Sarin wrote:
> AC is said to be more dangerous than DC at the same voltage level, and
> AC to be dangerous from lower voltage levels also?
I'm not an engineer, but my understanding is that it's the opposite. If you
put your hand in the wrong place (no smart comments, guys ;-), AC, unlike
DC, gives you a chance to let go 120 times a second.
It's really kind of moot, though. The part you're most likely to have a
close and personal relationship is the battery end, and that's always DC.
FWIW, most AC drives I'm familiar with are a more "finished" product, with
motor and inverter matched; they tend to have nicely insulated plug-in
connections between inverter and motor, so you're unlikely to get your hands
into the 3-phase AC they produce.
This often isn't the case with DC drives, especially the generic series
motor controllers and forklift-type series motors many folks use. They have
uninsulated lugs on the controller and uninsulated terminal bolts on the
motor. It's up to you to insulate the connections yourself, and quite a few
hobbyists don't bother (I didn't ;-).
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Check out these links for the Woodburn pics.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 5:57 PM
Subject: NEDRA gets WIRED (again)
> The September issue of WIRED magazine (the issue featuring Jon Stewart
> on the cover) features V is for Voltage coverage of the NEDRA Nationals
> electric drag racing championships in Woodburn Oregon.
>
> This is the photo they used:
> http://tinyurl.com/bpzbp
> It shows Roderick Wilde at the wheel of the Lightning Rod II pulling up
> to the line. It is located in WIRED on page 55 at the beginning of the
> "Play" section.
>
> WIRED likes electric racing and wanted to give NEDRA some coverage to
> help get a larger event turn out. Don't forget these upcoming calendar
> events:
> http://tinyurl.com/d6kor - September 2nd - Wayland Invitational
> http://tinyurl.com/dc39l - September 3rd - Electric Breakfast and Media
> Event
> http://tinyurl.com/cn74c - September 4th - NEDRA Nationals
----- Original Message -----
From: "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 9:00 PM
Subject: RE: White Zombie HV connectors
> I'm so new at this I haven't even figured if I want to have a transmission,
> AC or DC motor! I understand the theory behind ev's And I'm good with tools
> and have worked on MANY a car. But NOTHING like this! What are the Woodburn
> pics?
>
> John S. Winters
>
> Confidentiality Notice: This email message, including any attachments,
> contains or may contain confidential information intended only for the
> addressee. If you are not an intended recipient of this message, be advised
> that any reading, dissemination, forwarding, printing, copying or other use
> of this message or its attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have
> received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by
> reply message and delete this email message and any attachments from your
> system.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Rush
> Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 10:49 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: White Zombie HV connectors
>
>
> John,
>
> I was looking thru the Woodburn pics and saw the one that shows what is
> under the hood of the White Zombie. What are the connectors that connect the
> heavy gauge cables to the motor, Zilla, etc?
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi John, and welcome to the list!
Two suggestions:
1) Read Mike Brown's "Convert It". Best $20-25 you
ever spent on EV materials.
2) Consider where you will stick 14-16 batteries in
the Windstar. Unfortunately, battery technology
(while improving rapidly) is still poor for the budget
EV. So after putting say, 7 under hood in the van,
you'd give up the back seat & cargo area for the
remainder. Ouch. On the other hand, there are several
Chrysler minivans that have been retrofitted, so it
can be done! (;-p
Another side note that we use manual trannies, not
automatic, unless you weld up the torque converter or
somesuch. (Sorry, not my area of expertise).
Best to you, and enjoy the incredible expertise you're
about to encounter!
Sincerely,
--- "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Hello All!
>
> I'm new to this forum & EV's. I saw "Sucking Amp's"
> on the Discovery Channel
> (least I THINK it was the Discovery Channel) and
> I've been thinking of
> converting my 1998 Ford Windstar to an EV. ANY
> suggestions would VERY MUCH
> appreciated.
>
> Thank you!
>
> John S. Winters
>
> Confidentiality Notice: This email message,
> including any attachments,
> contains or may contain confidential information
> intended only for the
> addressee. If you are not an intended recipient of
> this message, be advised
> that any reading, dissemination, forwarding,
> printing, copying or other use
> of this message or its attachments is strictly
> prohibited. If you have
> received this message in error, please notify the
> sender immediately by
> reply message and delete this email message and any
> attachments from your
> system.
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
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=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
AC is three times as dangerous as DC is at the same voltage but both are
bad. AC "stuns" the nerves in the muscles for a short time, unfortunately,
that time is a lot longer than the period between AC "pulses" so you never
get the chance to take control and make your muscles let go.
little googling
http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/410681_3
Initial Evaluation
The high voltage direct current (DC) electrocution tends to cause a single
muscle contraction, throwing its victim from the source. These patients tend
to have more blunt trauma. Direct current electrocution can also cause
cardiac dysrrhythmias, depending on the phase of the cardiac cycle affected.
This action is similar to the affect of a cardiac defibrillator.
Low voltage alternating current (AC) electrocution is three times more
dangerous than DC current at the same voltage. The lowest frequency for
electrical current in the United States is 60 Hertz (Hz) because this is the
lowest frequency at which an incandescent light functions. With AC
electrocution, continuous muscle contractions (tetany) may occur, since the
muscle fibers are stimulated at between 40 to 110 times per second. With
tetany, the victim tends to hold on to the source of current output, thereby
increasing the duration of contact and worsening the injury.[2]
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
On 27 Aug 2005 at 12:43, Osmo Sarin wrote:
AC is said to be more dangerous than DC at the same voltage level, and
AC to be dangerous from lower voltage levels also?
I'm not an engineer, but my understanding is that it's the opposite. If
you
put your hand in the wrong place (no smart comments, guys ;-), AC, unlike
DC, gives you a chance to let go 120 times a second.
It's really kind of moot, though. The part you're most likely to have a
close and personal relationship is the battery end, and that's always DC.
FWIW, most AC drives I'm familiar with are a more "finished" product, with
motor and inverter matched; they tend to have nicely insulated plug-in
connections between inverter and motor, so you're unlikely to get your
hands
into the 3-phase AC they produce.
This often isn't the case with DC drives, especially the generic series
motor controllers and forklift-type series motors many folks use. They
have
uninsulated lugs on the controller and uninsulated terminal bolts on the
motor. It's up to you to insulate the connections yourself, and quite a
few
hobbyists don't bother (I didn't ;-).
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
As I have heard the product lost some it's...Uhhhh Grunt as The DCP folks
could not keep them running.
With over 1000 of them out there... Your results may vary.
Some also have had a very hard life, and are suffering from contamination
and other effect.
Keep in mind my stories are from when I was involved... and atually tuned
them up from time to time.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 3:39 PM
Subject: Raptor, ammeter, was: Re: Transmissions...
> At 10:37 AM 27/08/05 -0700, Rich wrote:
> >Nick....you had a bad Raptor.
> >
> >healthy Raptor 1200s made 1600 amps for 1/2 second then dropped back to
> >1200 and change for about 15 seconds.
> >
> >The Raptor 600s Could and did make 900 amps for the first 1/2 Second then
> >dropped back to 600 for the main power plateau.<snip>
> > > Where did you hear that Raptor 600s will do 900 motor Amps? The one I
> > > owned _never_ did more than 600 Amps in the motor loop.
>
> Hi Rich, Nick and all
>
> Sounds more like an instrument thing - 900A for 1/2 a second, then back to
> 600? In 1/2 a second his ammeter would still be settling.
>
> Nick, I assume this was with an analogue meter? Would/could the meter
> response have hidden that half-second?
>
> Of course, Rich could also be right - the controller may have not been
> working properly, but if all else about it was fine (no other symptoms) I
> think it'd be your instrument rather than the controller.
>
> Regards
>
> James
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Team member Madman here.
Rod lurks
So does FT and Otmar is always around.
So we are here.
PLEASE don't use belt drives!
I have a client that did a Windstar. Get the older mechanical Automatic
tranny. The computer controlled ones are really had to shift.
Get a Zilla 2K... they are a heavy EV.. and you will need to stuff about
2000 lbs of lead on board for range.
Of course get a Manzanita PFC charger... A bit biased here of course....
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 8:28 PM
Subject: New Here
> Hello All!
>
> I'm new to this forum & EV's. I saw "Sucking Amp's" on the Discovery
Channel
> (least I THINK it was the Discovery Channel) and I've been thinking of
> converting my 1998 Ford Windstar to an EV. ANY suggestions would VERY MUCH
> appreciated.
>
> Thank you!
>
> John S. Winters
>
> Confidentiality Notice: This email message, including any attachments,
> contains or may contain confidential information intended only for the
> addressee. If you are not an intended recipient of this message, be
advised
> that any reading, dissemination, forwarding, printing, copying or other
use
> of this message or its attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have
> received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by
> reply message and delete this email message and any attachments from your
> system.
>
--- End Message ---
