EV Digest 4635
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts?
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) thanks
by Steve Downing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts?
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts? Now
Boats.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) IOTA DLS battery chargers for 220 vac / 50 hz.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Goodyear Viva 2 sizes, prices, and questions
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: IOTA DLS battery chargers for 220 vac / 50 hz.
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: questions about some of the details
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: questions about some of the details
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: questions about some of the details
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: IOTA DLS battery chargers for 220 vac / 50 hz.
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: questions about some of the details
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts?
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: 110 V a/c in EV
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: E-Meter, Ah counters, who needs 'em?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: questions about some of the details
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by Osmo Sarin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: driving habits
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: precharge resistor
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: New Here
by "Marc Michon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Loud Lester charger?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) 2000 mile range EV?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts?
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) 75mpg Hybrid you can build.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: 2000 mile range EV?
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts?
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts? Now
Boats.
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Ward wrote:
> There are quite a few of them for a good price in various horsepower on Ebay
> right now. A rewinder in Oklahoma is offering them.
What's the link to the Oklahoma rewinder?
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set EV mail
end
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wow, Coweta, Oklahoma, I'm in fort smith arkansas, almost exactly 100 miles
away :op
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
Mark Ward wrote:
There are quite a few of them for a good price in various horsepower on
Ebay
right now. A rewinder in Oklahoma is offering them.
What's the link to the Oklahoma rewinder?
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--- Begin Message ---
At 24 Volts the new
motor provides a maximum speed of 6 miles per hour. We are happy with this
speed. (It is more than needed for trolling, but a comfortable speed for
just touring the shoreline in the evening)
You might consider the waterline length speed when under power. Depending
on the length of your pontoon boat you could use an ammeter to find the most
efficient speed for crusing. (I am assuming you don't need to get up on a
plane.) Just a fraction of a knot faster than your length speed and we're
talking a lot more power wasted. It could mean the difference of going
further or not at all. Jerry Dycus might have the formula for figuring out
the exact speed of any length boat.
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This is what I think is in Gone Postal. Problem. I'm only running 144vdc.
GP is at 240. Will I brown out the IOTA with low voltage? It's also more
money. I know some of you are using the 120v version up to 180vdc. What
should I get for a 144vdc conversion. Lawrence Rhodes.
220V DLS Models provide a three-prong power cord terminal
for connection to the AC power source.
The cord is not provided.
Consult your local supplier for the AC cord that matches your
individual requirements.
This unit is not UL Listed.
The 220 volt models accept the same optional IQ4 smart
charge controllers as our standard models.
As we will not stock large quantities of these 220 volt chargers
the current inventory will be shown with each charger.
The input voltage range is 220 to 240 volts a.c.
The input frequency range is 47 to 63 cycles.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Here's the sizes and prices:
http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/374/viva11kg.jpg
Some sizes are available with black walls on both sides. Some have
the 1980's whitewall stripe.
What is the anatomy of a whitewall? Has anyone ever dissected a
whitewall tire? What is that thing? How deep is it? Is it just
painted on? Can it be removed?
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--- Begin Message ---
Are these re-branded IOTA's?
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/web/prods/fans.asp
Insane markup on them...
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/scat/39853/
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--- Begin Message ---
On 28 Aug 2005 at 11:54, Jeff Shanab wrote:
> Letting the
> batteries sit without chargeing them is bad and charging them without
> regulators is bad, Is there anything I can do to get buy until I can
> afford regulators?
Put 'em all on the garage floor. Connect in as many parallel strings as you
have shop chargers. Charge gently at a low to moderate rate with the shop
charger(s) until full. Then disconnect the charger(s) and leave the modules
connected in parallel.
By the time you're ready to use them, they will be significantly closer to
the same voltage (roughly but not precisely the same as the same state of
charge).
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Eh? I thought you had to have the circuit complete (either loaded or
charging) to get voltage "travel" between batteries in a string...
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: questions about some of the details
On 28 Aug 2005 at 11:54, Jeff Shanab wrote:
Letting the
batteries sit without chargeing them is bad and charging them without
regulators is bad, Is there anything I can do to get buy until I can
afford regulators?
Put 'em all on the garage floor. Connect in as many parallel strings as
you
have shop chargers. Charge gently at a low to moderate rate with the shop
charger(s) until full. Then disconnect the charger(s) and leave the
modules
connected in parallel.
By the time you're ready to use them, they will be significantly closer to
the same voltage (roughly but not precisely the same as the same state of
charge).
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1) Mid pack is OK.
2) The fuse protects the controller. The controller protects the motor. Put
the fuse between the batteries and the controller.
3) No problem unless you want all the cables to be interchangeable. Few
installations have interchangeable cables.
4) The regulators protect the batteries from overcharging. Putting the
batteries in series and trickle charge at 1 to 2 amps until the voltage
stops rising is acceptable. You can add another layer of safety by checking
the module voltages. The Voltages should stop rising at about the same
level. If you have some that go over 16 volts while others are under 14
volts, you can take the high ones out of the string and restart the charge
on the ones that are low. If you are using a charger with an adjustable
current, just set the current to less than one amp manually.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 4:54 AM
Subject: questions about some of the details
> I am trying to fit my 25 orbitals in the 300zx. And I have some questions.
>
> 1. Circuit Breaker (2 Hienemann 250's in series)
> Would it be ok to put the circuit breaker mid pack?
> The reason is the breaker can go in the front of the rear battery
> rack, upright and accessable from the drivers seat.(although, if it
> pops, it would probably scare me 1/2 to death)
> I will still have a pack disconnect and a fuse and the kilovac EV250
>
> 2. Fuses
> On motor loop and/or battery side of controller?
>
> 3. Battery sprawl
> It looks like I will have rows at different levels of 5,4,5 then
> hang 3 under where the tank was in back
> this is 17 batteries centered around the rear axle and compresses the
> suspension 4 ".
> the remaining 8 will go in 3 seperate locations up front. So they are
> kinda all over with cables between the packs that are longer than
> the average jumpers. Is this a problem?
>
> 4. I am out of money :-( and don't have regulators yet. Letting the
> batteries sit without chargeing them is bad and charging them without
> regulators is bad, Is there anything I can do to get buy until I can
> afford regulators? Can I just set the equalize current down to 1 amp and
> let it equalize longer on the weekends? If I use the 2 zeners and a
> flashlight bulb trick, do I have to interface to the charger? or can I
> manually set the charger in equalize mode?
>
> Thanks, Man I am getting excited as I get closer and closer to that
> elusive EV grin. I have a lot of people in this town interested too.
>
>
>
>
>
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I/ve been running mine at 150v and its on when the charger is on , I'm going
up in voltage so I to will have to do somthing , I;ve been thinking of
getting some kind of li -ion batteries for running the lights , the voltage
on 4 cells would be alittle higher than a lead bat which is good ( or I
could get 5 cells and have some kind of regulator) , and a 40 ah would
weight just a little more than same as a dc to dc , aaround 12 lbs . My dc
to dc draws 1.5 amps daytime and 2.7 at night . The other reason fo r doing
this is get to know these batteries . Wasn't long ago we talked about what
was better a dc to dc or a extra battery . I could say that the constanst
draw through the day uses 1 to 3 % which if we are talking about battery
weight would be 15 to 45 lbs of battery needed to do this job ,
Steve Clunn
From: "Lawrence Rhodes"
This is what I think is in Gone Postal. Problem. I'm only running
144vdc. GP is at 240. Will I brown out the IOTA with low voltage? It's
also more money. I know some of you are using the 120v version up to
180vdc. What should I get for a 144vdc conversion. Lawrence Rhodes.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> 1. Circuit Breaker (2 Hienemann 250's in series)
> Would it be ok to put the circuit breaker mid pack?
Yes.
> 2. Fuses
> On motor loop and/or battery side of controller?
I wouldn't fuse the motor loop; current is high and unpredictable.
Fusing the battery pack is normally sufficient because the motor can't
do regen and there's nowhere else for power to go with the batteries
disconnected.
> 3. Battery sprawl
> cables between the packs longer than the average jumpers. Is this
> a problem?
Usually not. Just use wiring practices to provide adequate shock and
abrasion protection.
> 4. anything I can do to get buy until I can afford regulators?
If the batteries are just being stored until use, wire them all in
parallel and use a float charger to keep them ready. Or connect a
regular 12v charger once a month to keep them topped off.
> If I use the 2 zeners and a flashlight bulb trick, do I have to
> interface to the charger?
You don't have to, but you should. My battery boxes are closed, and so
dark. I have a photocell to detect light in the battery box (from the
regulators), and use it to cut the charger back to a low safe current.
--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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hmm, 4.8 horse, 36 volt? seems a little small for a vehicle conversion...
wonder what the reserve is, hehe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
There are quite a few of them for a good price in various horsepower on
Ebay right now. A rewinder in Oklahoma is offering them. Some good
Daewoos, ADC's and others, but some have spline shaft drive.
Take a look at this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7541102348&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
Best of luck..
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
speaking of forklifts....any place that sells used forklift motors or
such?
going to be doing my first conversion in a few months and would rather
start with used equipment than take the chance of frying a brand new
motor/controller/charger...
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
At 02:29 PM 28/08/05 -0400, Tom wrote:
Hi!
There is one of those scrubbing machines(the kind they
use to do malls and huge stores) at the recyclers that
I may be able to get for a really good price. It's 36
volts and appears to have all the components, the
motor looks new and the electric components look to be
undamaged... it was in a fire and the exterior is
wrecked.
If it is cheap enough and you are interested to do this, how about
grabbing it and electrifying a go-cart for a first project/learning
exercise?
I figure it is too small for a car, but might work in
a motorcycle or boat application.
As-is the control is probably more than a boat would need - but the only
boat I've done was only two forward and two reverse speeds, fine for the
use they have for it. Other listees could be in a better position (more
boats) than I. It may be enough for a micro car - as long as you
consider it to be more of a NEV than a car. Low (around town) speeds and
short range (30 miles or so) may be do-able.
So are any of you guys familiar with these things?
There are a couple of listers who work with forklift services - I know
John Wayland does.
Anybody worked these into something useful?
A guy in New Zealand (Gary someone) put a system out of (I think) an
airport tow truck into a van - a search of the archives under 'forklift
motor' and similar may find it. His was reasonably successful, but I
think his was a bigger system (48V and bigger motor/amps).
Is there a way I could increase the power I can get
from it(like upping the voltage?)
Then you move away from the control system design - a new controller
would probably be needed. But you can (for example) double the battery
voltage, use the system contactors from the sweeper in dual-in-series
(two switching together with the contacts connected one after the other)
to get the contact voltage rating. The motor will run at twice the RPM
for the same amps (and same heating) but deliver twice the hp.
Regards
James
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--- Begin Message ---
Michaela Merz wrote:
> Question: The inverter connects the a/c neutral and ground to chassis.
Sure; that is normal practice for inverters, since home AC power also
has its neutral connected to ground.
> I would rather have a 'floating' design, i.e. nothing connected
> to the chassis.
Sure; this is normal for EVs.
> So, I mounted the inverter on rubber 'sockets'. I also opened the
> a/c and disconnected the ground from the a/c.
I wouldn't have done it this way. The inverters I've seen were designed
so it was easy to "float" the output when needed. There was a single
obvious point where the inverter's AC neutral connected to chassis
ground.
I would also add a high-value resistor (like 1 megohm) from this
floating neutral to chassis ground. This keeps the nominal neutral
voltage approximately zero. It will discharge the various RFI
suppression caps and any random static charges.
--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark McCurdy wrote:
> AC is three times as dangerous as DC is at the same voltage but
> both are bad. AC "stuns" the nerves in the muscles for a short
> time, unfortunately, that time is a lot longer than the period
> between AC "pulses" so you never get the chance to take control
> and make your muscles let go.
>
> little googling: http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/410681_3
I think your reference has oversimplified the situation to the point of
becoming meaningless. Saying "AC is three times as dangerous" as DC" is
an opinion, not a meaningful measurement. It's like saying "a gun is
three times as dangerous as a sword." You can't compare them like this;
the circumstances are too different.
EV batteries are always DC; so if you get a shock from the batteries, it
will be DC no matter what. In this case, pack voltage is the main
concern. The higher the voltage, the greater the risk that a shock will
be fatal.
Motors can be AC or DC; but the odds of getting a shock from the motor
are very low. You aren't going to be running the motor with the hood up
and your hands anywhere near the motor leads. Even if you do manage to
touch the motor leads while it is running, the controller in *both* AC
and DC-motored EVs is chopping the DC battery voltage into pulsating AC
anyway. The peak voltage is the same (full pack voltage), regardless of
whether you're at idle or full throttle. Only the pulse width and/or
frequency are changing.
The charging systems are always AC, no matter whether the vehicle has an
AC or DC drive system. The shock hazard from the charger's AC is exactly
the same as it is for any other AC appliance -- you basically have
120vac from any hot to neutral or ground.
>From a shock hazard point of view, don't worry about whether your EV is
AC or DC. If you touch something in the charger, battery, controller, or
motor and get a shock, it will always be the same (AC or DC) regardless
of whether it is an AC or DC drive system.
All that matters is the voltage. In this respect, the lower the voltage,
the safer it is. So the higher your EV's voltage, the better it needs to
be protected and insulated to prevent shocks.
--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
Doug Weathers wrote:
> What I want is not an amp-hour counter but a fuel gauge. I want to
> be able to glance at the dashboard and get an instant picture of
> my state of charge, like in a ICE car.
Be careful what you ask for -- you may get it! :-)
The fuel gauge in most cars is a joke. They never mark it in gallons
because its accuracy is so bad. You're lucky if it reads within 1/4 tank
of how much you actually have.
This is just about what you get if you have nothing but an expanded
scale voltmeter in your EV. Include a very large capacitor across the
meter so it doesn't bounce around, and it will work like a normal ICE's
fuel gauge.
Just like with the ICE, when it says "full" you can't tell if it is 3/4
full, or overfilled so gas is dribbling down the side of the car.
Just like the ICE, when it says "empty" you don't know if you can drive
20 more miles -- or 1 mile more.
People try to have more accurate battery gauges in their EVs because it
is so much more *important* to be accurate when you know your range is
short.
> I keep coming back to Mark Brueggemann's cross-needle analog fuel
> gauge... My problems with this specific design is that the meter
> isn't designed for use in a vehicle, and it doesn't work when
> you're not moving, and it's hard to calibrate... So, how about
> a ruggedized version of the basic hardware?
Mark's gauge *is* clever. The meters should be readable while driving,
unless you are on a very bumpy road. Or, you can get meter movements
that are ruggedized and damped for automotive use.
If the scales are properly drawn, it *will* work while you are driving
(that's the whole point of measuring current and voltage).
Calibration is a challenge. It is not simply a matter of adjusting some
pots. The challenge is that each battery has a unique relationship
between its voltage / current / state of charge. To calibrate such a
gauge, you would have to discharge your battery at various currents and
plot the voltage vs. amphours extracted. Then make your red/yellow/green
scales accordingly. This is a lot of work.
Then, it will change as a function of the battery's age and temperature.
It will still wind up more of a "guess" gauge.
--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 28 Aug 2005 at 23:01, Mark McCurdy wrote:
> Eh? I thought you had to have the circuit complete (either loaded or
> charging) to get voltage "travel" between batteries in a string...
When batteries are connected in parallel, current will flow from the higher
voltage battery to the lower voltage battery until their voltage is equal.
In effect, the more-charged battery charges the less-charged battery.
Add a low-current charger to bring them all up to full charge, and they are
approximately equalized.
I say "approximately" because the closer batteries in parallel are in
voltage, the smaller the current that flows between them. Thus it may take
many weeks or months for batteries in parallel to approach being equalized.
But if you won't be using them for a while anyway, this is a good way to
improve SOC balance.
I should also note that you want to be sure all the batteries are in good
condition before attempting this. If any of them has a shorted cell, it
will bleed its mates to death trying to charge. You'll know instantly if a
battery has a shorted cell; it will read almost exactly 2 volts low on a
voltmeter.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Lee,
for answering my original questions.. :)
and your hands anywhere near the motor leads. Even if you do manage to
touch the motor leads while it is running, the controller in *both* AC
and DC-motored EVs is chopping the DC battery voltage into pulsating AC
anyway.
So the current in the cables between a motor and a controller is always
AC?? So what´s the difference between AC and DC motor? Is the current
transformed again into DC in the DC motor or what? (Sorry my english)
This all is probably clear to most of the readers of this list, but I
haven´t yet had a change to even get my hands on these things. And yes,
I have ordered "Convert it" among others, but still waiting for them.
So please be patient with me...
All that matters is the voltage. In this respect, the lower the
voltage,
the safer it is. So the higher your EV's voltage, the better it needs
to
be protected and insulated to prevent shocks.
This is how I originally thought it would be, but I´ve got this kind of
information also (in a private email):
"From electrical theory and Safety, Current kills not voltage. The
higher the current the more likely to kill...12v AC or DC can kill you
if you body impedance is low enough and enough current flows through
you and it run through you heart."
Osmo
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--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
>
> Lee and others
>
> Keep in mind the data is 27 to 40 years old... Many driving styles
> and ranges have changed dramaticly in that time frame.
Quite true. The trend is generally to commute longer distances. However,
the more recents studies I've seen (but didn't save copies of) don't
show it's increased all that much -- perhaps 20% more. One study
postulated that most people won't put up with commutes of much over an
hour, and that as traffic congestion worsens, that hour actually means
you can cover less distance.
--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny Miller wrote:
> I'm curious though why the lowest possible frequency was chosen.
It wasn't the lowest; it was the "optimum" under the circumstances.
Higher frequencies increase the losses in long-distance transmission
lines, transformers and motors. But they make motors and transformers
smaller and lighter (but more expensive).
At different times and situations, different frequencies have been used.
Early railroad AC systems were 16.33 hz to 25 hz, because they didn't
care how heavy the motors and transformers were; transmission line
losses mattered more. Aircraft use 400 hz because being small and
lightweight is vital, wiring isn't very long, and cost doesn't matter.
It wasn't until "the grid" was formed that all AC systems had to operate
at the same frequency so they could be tied together. When each system
is its own little island, they could use any frequency they wished.
--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
M.G. wrote:
>
> I was working on a fork truck the other day and came across a ptc
> (positive temperature coefficient ) resistor used as a precharge
> resistor. I liked the idea of using something like this over a light
> bulb as it looked more durable.
> I was wondering how would I calculate what value to use instead of a
> light bulb?
> I am planning on a 150 volt system.
To figure out the effective resistance of the PTC, you need to know a)
how much capacitance is in the controller, and b) how many seconds you
are willing to wait for precharge. Then the equation for the time
constant is T = R x C (where T is the time in seconds, R is the
resistance in ohms, and C is the capacitance in farads). Allow about 2
time constants, i.e. if you want it to precharge in 2 seconds, pick the
value of R for T = 1 second.
Or, use the experimental approach. Precharge with various light bulbs as
your resistor, and see which one gives you the precharge time you want.
Measure the light bulb's cold resistance with a multimeter, and pick a
PTC with about that resistance.
Be warned -- PTCs are generally very cheap, low reliability parts. They
tend to get very hot and damage themselves and parts around them.
--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/home.php
very good info on conersion
----- Original Message -----
From: "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 8:28 PM
Subject: New Here
> Hello All!
>
> I'm new to this forum & EV's. I saw "Sucking Amp's" on the Discovery
Channel
> (least I THINK it was the Discovery Channel) and I've been thinking of
> converting my 1998 Ford Windstar to an EV. ANY suggestions would VERY MUCH
> appreciated.
>
> Thank you!
>
> John S. Winters
>
> Confidentiality Notice: This email message, including any attachments,
> contains or may contain confidential information intended only for the
> addressee. If you are not an intended recipient of this message, be
advised
> that any reading, dissemination, forwarding, printing, copying or other
use
> of this message or its attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have
> received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by
> reply message and delete this email message and any attachments from your
> system.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is it normal for a Lestronic I 120vdc/12vdc Model 9776 charger to be so
loud? We are talking 80db at 15 feet according to my RS DB meter. My wife
is getting annoyed at the loud noise comming on at midnight to get the EV
rate of about 5 cents per KWH. It doesn't seem to work perfectly. It
doesn't hold the 3amp finish voltage. It goes down to zero like a variac or
K&W charger does. Also seems that driving off just as the ammeter tapers to
0 gives the best range. I know there is a repair center but what to do
about charging in the meantime is a problem. It does turn off
automatically.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.stanford.edu/group/solarcar/ev/version3.pdf#search='Amazing%20new%20Electric%20Vehicle%20battery'
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would rate them more for play purposes like carts, etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
hmm, 4.8 horse, 36 volt? seems a little small for a vehicle conversion...
wonder what the reserve is, hehe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
There are quite a few of them for a good price in various horsepower on
Ebay right now. A rewinder in Oklahoma is offering them. Some good
Daewoos, ADC's and others, but some have spline shaft drive.
Take a look at this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7541102348&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
Best of luck..
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
speaking of forklifts....any place that sells used forklift motors or
such?
going to be doing my first conversion in a few months and would rather
start with used equipment than take the chance of frying a brand new
motor/controller/charger...
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
At 02:29 PM 28/08/05 -0400, Tom wrote:
Hi!
There is one of those scrubbing machines(the kind they
use to do malls and huge stores) at the recyclers that
I may be able to get for a really good price. It's 36
volts and appears to have all the components, the
motor looks new and the electric components look to be
undamaged... it was in a fire and the exterior is
wrecked.
If it is cheap enough and you are interested to do this, how about
grabbing it and electrifying a go-cart for a first project/learning
exercise?
I figure it is too small for a car, but might work in
a motorcycle or boat application.
As-is the control is probably more than a boat would need - but the
only boat I've done was only two forward and two reverse speeds, fine
for the use they have for it. Other listees could be in a better
position (more boats) than I. It may be enough for a micro car - as
long as you consider it to be more of a NEV than a car. Low (around
town) speeds and short range (30 miles or so) may be do-able.
So are any of you guys familiar with these things?
There are a couple of listers who work with forklift services - I know
John Wayland does.
Anybody worked these into something useful?
A guy in New Zealand (Gary someone) put a system out of (I think) an
airport tow truck into a van - a search of the archives under 'forklift
motor' and similar may find it. His was reasonably successful, but I
think his was a bigger system (48V and bigger motor/amps).
Is there a way I could increase the power I can get
from it(like upping the voltage?)
Then you move away from the control system design - a new controller
would probably be needed. But you can (for example) double the battery
voltage, use the system contactors from the sweeper in dual-in-series
(two switching together with the contacts connected one after the
other) to get the contact voltage rating. The motor will run at twice
the RPM for the same amps (and same heating) but deliver twice the hp.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1979_July_August/An_Amazing_75_MPG_Hybrid_Electic_Car
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This may be more mailtool friendly: http://tinyurl.com/88fsv
Wow, this is unbelievable. But 80KWH of lithium ion and a shape
designed for nothing but range could do it.
Interesting they chose not to use the new huge li-ion cells. Doing the
math they have 8 WH per cell, so they're only a bit more than 2 AH,
basically laptop cells as they described.
1 hr recharge time. Wow, if you have a source to provide 360 amps @
220v and a charger that can drive that many amps. I wouldn't put it
past them though.
Danny
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
http://www.stanford.edu/group/solarcar/ev/version3.pdf#search='Amazing%20new%20Electric%20Vehicle%20battery'
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mark. James and All,
Mark Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I would rate them more for play purposes like carts, etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McCurdy"
To:
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
> hmm, 4.8 horse, 36 volt? seems a little small for a vehicle conversion...
> wonder what the reserve is, hehe
>
As this is around 170 amp cont it is anything but a toy if a series
wound field. I use in my 1,000 lb EV with direct drive, just a 3.5hp 36 vdc
series motor and get 60 mph on 48vdc.. 2 of them would be good for a large EV
even.
So running his motor on 72 or 96vdc would easily power a small
lightweight EV like a Bug, Karman Ghia . Datsun 1200, ect and even be fairly
fast if on a MC!!.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Ward"
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 6:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
> thoughts?
>
>
>> There are quite a few of them for a good price in various horsepower on
>> Ebay right now. A rewinder in Oklahoma is offering them. Some good
>> Daewoos, ADC's and others, but some have spline shaft drive.
>>
>> Take a look at this one:
>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7541102348&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
>>
>> Best of luck..
>>
>> Mark Ward
>> St. Charles, MO
>> 95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
>> www.saabrina.blogspot.com
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lawrence and All,
Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
At 24 Volts the new
motor provides a maximum speed of 6 miles per hour. We are happy with this
speed. (It is more than needed for trolling, but a comfortable speed for
just touring the shoreline in the evening)
Sounds like a great way to go and an especially good way to go
solar boating as you ned only a small solar panel set if you are only going out
once a week which is normal. And great pick of a boat as pontoons use very
little power vs monohulls that if over hull speed, suck it in hugh quanities.
You might consider the waterline length speed when under power. Depending
This is really only a factor in monohulls and pontoons, cats that
have wide, deep sterns. They usually if done correctly not have the bow wave
barrier to higher speeds as they are so narrow if 8-1 beam to length /hull
ratio. In a monohull you are very correct and should keep you speed to the sq
root of the waterline length which if 25', would be 5 mph. Above that energy
needed goes straight up!! So ge a pontoon, cat if you want to go fast at all
though is want a cool slow cruiser that can carry a lot of weight, a low drag
monohull of the sailboat, power launch, displacement hull type is a good way
to go.
on the length of your pontoon boat you could use an ammeter to find the most
efficient speed for crusing. (I am assuming you don't need to get up on a
Cats and pontoon should not get on plane as they can cut though the
water are lower energy use without it.
plane.) Just a fraction of a knot faster than your length speed and we're
talking a lot more power wasted. It could mean the difference of going
That's exactly what a reg monohull will do making bow waves
instead of speed so slowing a little in them will save a large amount of power.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
further or not at all. Jerry Dycus might have the formula for figuring out
the exact speed of any length boat.
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
--- End Message ---
