EV Digest 4750
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Which Nedra class?
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Need help with conceptual math
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Am I charging correctly?
by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: AIR Lab's Early Warning System
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Am I charging correctly?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: AIR Lab's Early Warning System
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 mil es in my
EV
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 mil
es in my EV
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 mil es in my
EV
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) Re: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Solectria UMOC340 motor controller issue
by Jacob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) variac wiring
by "Jim Lockwood" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Am I charging correctly? (Also update on the car)
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: AIR Lab's Early Warning System
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Solectria-Sunrise Body on eBay
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Fw: Father Time Lazyboy Racer Update
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Have I found the ultimate EV discussion list?
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,
000 miles in my EV
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Solectria UMOC340 motor controller issue
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Adjustable timing 8-inch motor - correction and photos
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: variac wiring
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Adjustable timing 8-inch motor - correction and photos
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Update on AGM battery testing for US Electricar - see you in Palo
Alto
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Dennis wrote:
> If a person had a pro street truck(NHRA)tube frame, fiber body fitted in such
> a way as to be totaly street legal and driven on the street with a lic. and
> insurance which class would it belong to in nedra?
If this is the extent of the "rules", I'd say Street conversion...
"Street conversion vehicles are licensed and legal for driving on the street. "
If not, then the "Concept vehicles" class..
http://www.nedra.com/records-sc.html
http://www.nedra.com/records-cv.html
Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] to find out for certain.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe Smalley wrote:
> If the commute takes less than one hour,
It takes 30 minutes each way..
> I did not find the discharge data on these batteries, therefore I do not
> know if 30 batteries will store 20 kWh.
How about a conversion using 12v Exide Orbitals for example? What
amount of them would have the kWh needed to make the 50 mile trip at
mostly highway speeds?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you are doing current based transition to float (the best way I know of,
but only works on a battery bank without a load on it while charging) you
want to charge out at 14.6 or 14.7 till you get to about 2 amps then drop to
float voltage of anywhere between 13.3 and 13.5 volts.
Mark Grasser
n
Setup in the Saturn is as follows:
12 Trojan 30XHS flooded batteries
PFC30 charger.
Trojan says to charge to 14.6 volts per battery, so 12X14.6 is 175.2
volts. I have the timer set to 3 at the moment. It brought the pack up to
175.2 volts and the timer light started flashing. It was slowly dropping
in current near the end, but shut off at about 8 amps still flowing in to
the pack. I should have more time on the timer until it trickles down to
about an amp right?
Thanks
Later,
Ricky
02 Red Insight #559
92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
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--- Begin Message ---
Victor wrote:
> This is how SAFT operates. Actually, volume is quite high but
> no retail customers - all OEMs (Philippe can correct me, but
> I don't believe there is a store chain with "SAFT" billboard
> you can walk into anf buy couple of STM NiCd modules).
In fact no Saft STM5 volumes are very low, mostly because they are looking
at the "mirror" and don't want to see themselves problems, they are perfect
people making perfect batteries at a perfect price with perfect requirement
and perfect commercial people and so on...
:^(
For this reasons i think Saft already loosed EV market, actual company head
is not fighting for EV promotion and support, it's at end position in their
to do list, maybe it's not at all in the list...
victor,
If you want to walk into unofficial Saf STM, CVH, HE nimh model store chain,
i would be pleased to invit you at home :^)
I hope to have soon new promising nickel-zinc for testing though it will not
be Saft brand (no not evercell either) , will give you news when i'm
autorized ;^)
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ricky Suiter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Setup in the Saturn is as follows:
> 12 Trojan 30XHS flooded batteries
> PFC30 charger.
>
> Trojan says to charge to 14.6 volts per battery, so 12X14.6
> is 175.2 volts. I have the timer set to 3 at the moment. It
> brought the pack up to 175.2 volts and the timer light
> started flashing. It was slowly dropping in current near the
> end, but shut off at about 8 amps still flowing in to the
> pack. I should have more time on the timer until it trickles
> down to about an amp right?
Yes, you need more time on the timer.
For those batteries the current should taper to about 2A and then
ideally you would hold it at 2A for another hour or so (to provide the
required overcharge). The PFC30 can't do the final constant current
portion unless you manually re-adjust the charger near the end of each
charge cycle, so you will have to just set the timer long enough to
allow charging to continue for anhour or so after the current falls to
2A. Check your s.g. after charging and if it is not up to about 1.290
increase the charge timer some more. Note that as you break the
batteries in they may take less time to taper down to 2A, so you may
need to re-adjust the timer.
If you have the ability to do so, I would suggest setting your battery
current limit no higher than 500A (400A preferably) with those
batteries.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What schematic?
An opto is used to replicate the on-board alarm
indicator on the dash. Also, this simplifies wiring
since you could now use the vehicle chassis as the
common ground for all battery units.
Another is used to activate equalization mode. This
also simplifies wiring because you could again use a
common ground and a common equalization enable wire.
So, you only have to run 1 unique wire to each battery
unit. The rest are common to all.
Ed Ang
--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> So I have to ask, is this EWS based on using
> optocouplers in analog mode
> like that schematic shown earlier?
>
> Danny
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Jody. Lynn and All,
"Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Wow! That is great data to see.
Yes it is some very interesting data, thanks Lynn.
What is your total weight with batteries?
Look under pounds below and you'll see.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 5:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000
miles in my EV
Hello Lynn,
What type motor and controller are you using?
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adams, Lynn"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 5:11 PM
Subject: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 miles in
my EV
> Well I've been meaning to post my emperical battery data for a while,
> and the recent resurgence of the 8V/6V debate pushed me over the edge...
>
> I now have over 47,000 miles in my converted Civic. Car normally uses
> 18 8 volt golf cart batteries for 144 volts. My second set was the US
> 8VGC-HC where I installed two additioal batteries in battery boxes
> behind the front seats, concluded the extra batteries were not worth it.
> Third set was T875's and the fourth (currrent) set the T890's
>
> Below is a summary from actual data taken on my 43 miles commute to
> work, recharge at work, and 43 miles home. 86 miles a day every day
> speeds from stop and go to 65 mph. Battery pack end of life was defined
> as "limping into work with barely enough energy and hoping I can get
> home one more time..." Near the end of each pack life, bad batterys
> were removed, leaving a bigger load on the ones remaining, but could
> usually get 300 to 500 more miles by doing this. Of course if I had a
> shorter distance between charges probabally could have gone a lot more
> miles.
>
> Here is the data summary:
>
> Type US8V-GC US8V-GCHC T875 T890
> Year 2002 2003 2004 2005
> miles 12200 14200 16203 5000 so far
> Average WH/M 215 227 224 205
> Range to 80% 51.4 60 54 57.3
> Initial end trip voltage at 15A 142.5 151 143.5 144
> Final end trip voltage at 15A 136.5 144 138 143 so
> far
> Number of batteries 18 20 18 18
> pounds 1161 1380 1134 1242
> cost 940 1098 1168 1494
> miles per pound 10.51 10.29 14.29 ?
> Miles per dollar (US) 12.98 12.93 13.87 ?
> Cents per mile (US) 0.077 0.077 0.072 ?
>
>
> I've been very happy with all the batteries so far except the
> US8V-GC-HC's. The higher level of plates and acid resulted in greater
> acid leaking from the battery during use. They had a significtly
> stonger oder and acid residue than any of the others.
>
>
> When I get to 50,000 miles I'd write a longer piece telling all the
> interesting incidents.
>
> Happy EV'ing
>
>
> Lynn
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thats why I asked Jerry. That can't be the TOTAL weight of the car with the
batteries. The reason I am interested is because I am in the planning stage
of building a 1990 Nissan 240SX. Your range is exactly where I want it. I
am pretty sure I am going with Trojan T105 batteries at 156 volts with a
Zilla controller. I am a speed junkie so I think that will give me the
ooomph I am looking for with the range I need. I am just hoping my car is
capable of highway speeds for at least 17 miles each way to work. I am
hoping for a 3500 pound total weight with batteries. The Total weight of
the pack (T105, 62 pounds, 26 batteries) will be 1612 pounds. I am hoping I
can meet my range, speed, and useability goals with this car and the
components I selected.
Does anyone know of a local distributor in the Virginia Beach, VA area where
I can buy the Trojan T105s at? I think it would be easier than ordering
them.
-----Original Message-----
From: jerry dycus [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 7:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000
mil es in my EV
Hi Jody. Lynn and All,
"Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Wow! That is great data to see.
Yes it is some very interesting data, thanks Lynn.
What is your total weight with batteries?
Look under pounds below and you'll see.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 5:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000
miles in my EV
Hello Lynn,
What type motor and controller are you using?
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adams, Lynn"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 5:11 PM
Subject: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 miles in
my EV
> Well I've been meaning to post my emperical battery data for a while,
> and the recent resurgence of the 8V/6V debate pushed me over the edge...
>
> I now have over 47,000 miles in my converted Civic. Car normally uses
> 18 8 volt golf cart batteries for 144 volts. My second set was the US
> 8VGC-HC where I installed two additioal batteries in battery boxes
> behind the front seats, concluded the extra batteries were not worth it.
> Third set was T875's and the fourth (currrent) set the T890's
>
> Below is a summary from actual data taken on my 43 miles commute to
> work, recharge at work, and 43 miles home. 86 miles a day every day
> speeds from stop and go to 65 mph. Battery pack end of life was defined
> as "limping into work with barely enough energy and hoping I can get
> home one more time..." Near the end of each pack life, bad batterys
> were removed, leaving a bigger load on the ones remaining, but could
> usually get 300 to 500 more miles by doing this. Of course if I had a
> shorter distance between charges probabally could have gone a lot more
> miles.
>
> Here is the data summary:
>
> Type US8V-GC US8V-GCHC T875 T890
> Year 2002 2003 2004 2005
> miles 12200 14200 16203 5000 so far
> Average WH/M 215 227 224 205
> Range to 80% 51.4 60 54 57.3
> Initial end trip voltage at 15A 142.5 151 143.5 144
> Final end trip voltage at 15A 136.5 144 138 143 so
> far
> Number of batteries 18 20 18 18
> pounds 1161 1380 1134 1242
> cost 940 1098 1168 1494
> miles per pound 10.51 10.29 14.29 ?
> Miles per dollar (US) 12.98 12.93 13.87 ?
> Cents per mile (US) 0.077 0.077 0.072 ?
>
>
> I've been very happy with all the batteries so far except the
> US8V-GC-HC's. The higher level of plates and acid resulted in greater
> acid leaking from the battery during use. They had a significtly
> stonger oder and acid residue than any of the others.
>
>
> When I get to 50,000 miles I'd write a longer piece telling all the
> interesting incidents.
>
> Happy EV'ing
>
>
> Lynn
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) wrote:
> Does anyone know of a local distributor in the Virginia Beach, VA area where
> I can buy the Trojan T105s at?
http://www.trojan-battery.com/InternationalLocations.aspx?regId=9&sregNm=VA®Nm=United%20States
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any idea when these chargers will be auctioned? The web site says the
next aucton is Sept 17, and doesn't give future dates, and the
inventory list does not show the chargers.
On 9/22/05, Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://wsmauctioneers.com/
>
> Good auction. Lots of fleet cars/trucks that work well and are 'cheap'. Lots
> of heavy equipment that seems to go for good money. I find the metal getting
> expensive, but since the price of fuel is getting high, I don't go up that
> often. Get there early for a good parking spot.
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 1:25 PM
> Subject: RE: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
>
>
> > Got an IP address for the auction? I can't find it.
> >
> > Bill Dennis
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 12:45 PM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re:Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
> >
> > Western Sales auctions has at least 10 gould chargers ranging up to 200
> > volts
> > and 50 amps coming from APS.Probaly pennies on a dollar.
> >
> > Dennis Berube
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yhey are slow to update. Dennis must know somebody.
I wonder if these are from their free charging
stations thay had around the valley.
--- Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Any idea when these chargers will be auctioned? The
> web site says the
> next aucton is Sept 17, and doesn't give future
> dates, and the
> inventory list does not show the chargers.
>
> On 9/22/05, Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > http://wsmauctioneers.com/
> >
> > Good auction. Lots of fleet cars/trucks that work
> well and are 'cheap'. Lots of heavy equipment that
> seems to go for good money. I find the metal getting
> expensive, but since the price of fuel is getting
> high, I don't go up that often. Get there early for
> a good parking spot.
> >
> > Rush
> > Tucson AZ
> > www.ironandwood.org
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 1:25 PM
> > Subject: RE: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
> >
> >
> > > Got an IP address for the auction? I can't
> find it.
> > >
> > > Bill Dennis
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > > Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 12:45 PM
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Subject: Re:Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
> > >
> > > Western Sales auctions has at least 10 gould
> chargers ranging up to 200
> > > volts
> > > and 50 amps coming from APS.Probaly pennies on a
> dollar.
> > >
> > >
> Dennis Berube
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I believe the auction is sat. oct 7.I would expect the chargers to D.Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They have a regular auction the 2nd Sat of every month at 1616 S 67th Ave, the
Sept 17 auction is an 'extra' that is off premises.
They never have a full list online, things arrive sometimes on friday. If you
give them a call you can get on the mailing list which sends out a brochure
that is better than the website, but you have to look at the list and also the
photos to see the full extent of the things to be auctioned.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shawn Rutledge" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
> Any idea when these chargers will be auctioned? The web site says the
> next aucton is Sept 17, and doesn't give future dates, and the
> inventory list does not show the chargers.
>
> On 9/22/05, Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> http://wsmauctioneers.com/
>>
>> Good auction. Lots of fleet cars/trucks that work well and are 'cheap'. Lots
>> of heavy equipment that seems to go for good money. I find the metal getting
>> expensive, but since the price of fuel is getting high, I don't go up that
>> often. Get there early for a good parking spot.
>>
>> Rush
>> Tucson AZ
>> www.ironandwood.org
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 1:25 PM
>> Subject: RE: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
>>
>>
>> > Got an IP address for the auction? I can't find it.
>> >
>> > Bill Dennis
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
>> > Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 12:45 PM
>> > To: [email protected]
>> > Subject: Re:Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
>> >
>> > Western Sales auctions has at least 10 gould chargers ranging up to 200
>> > volts
>> > and 50 amps coming from APS.Probaly pennies on a dollar.
>> >
>> > Dennis Berube
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On my E-10 I've identified one UMOC 340 not functioning very well. Less than
50% power just on one side. I've isolated that it's not a problem with the
motor, speed sensor, or any wires, connections, or components before or
after the UMOC 340. Has any one had any experience trying to test out and
repair one themselves as opposed to shipping them to Azure?
Same deal with my power steering motor controller, only there is zero output
from it. And again, I've have isolated the problem to that component. It's a
DC30-276V. I did find one resister on it that seemed like it could have been
fried, but replacing it didn't help.
Any ideas here as well?
Jacob Harris
E-10
Sebastopol, CA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
bad boy quick charge...240 volt line, line 1 direct to bridge rectifier.
line 2 run through variac then to bridge rectifier ( fuse each line ) adjust
to 170 to 180 volt watching amp load with clamp on meter...will this work???
144 volt 85 toyota pick up (almost on road)
jim lockwood
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks guys, I've been eeking the timer up one notch every time and I think I'm
closer now. I've got the Zilla set to 500 amps, but my throttle pot is somewhat
restricted so it won't go wide open, so I'm betting it's more like 400 max. I
have not seen any higher than 300, and I'm trying to keep it under 200 amps.
The car is doing phenominal. I had a set of Goodyear Integrity 185/65/15's put
on it yesterday, which are at least a semi LRR if not true LRR tire, and there
was a noticeable difference with those. I can maintain 45 mph at about 50 amps.
I hit the freeway today for the first time and 55-60 mph on flat ground can be
held at about 75 amps. I found out too the car has a drag coefficient of .31,
which is pretty good. I've only had it working to my satisfaction for less than
a week and I've already logged over 100 miles (only maybe 10 at a time of
course for break in).
Had a fun time with the dept of motor vehicles today also. I was told for an
electric I could just take it to any DMV office and they could inspect it for
changing the fuel type on the registration. So I went to the closest one, drove
around back where they do inspections and went inside. I was told, get this, I
had to go to the emissions station to get it looked at. I knew this was
incorrect, but it was right across the street so I figured what the heck this
should be fun. I went over there and they told me (of course) I had to go to
the DMV for that. I went back to the DMV and the lady went off for 15 minutes
and talked to whoever she needed to and came back with an alternative fuel
withdrawl form! No no no no no, wrong form. She goes back and talks to someone
else, comes back and tells me to pull it around to the inspection line. Wow
they're gonna do it, yeah right. So I had the main manager end up comming out
and she handed me the right form and said you have to take thi!
s form
and go to the main emissions waiver station, so ok I finally had the paper
saying where I had to go. So I'm not yet comfortable with the range, plus
battery break in, plus it was half way across Phoenix and I didn't want to take
my chances and time with available public charging, so we loaded it up on the
trailer. Took it over there and unloaded it, it too the tech's all of 10
seconds to look under the hood and sign the papers, put it in the computer and
send me on my way.
At this point I was almost to where I was hoping to commute to, with possible
charging available, and I had a truck with trailer there with me so it was the
perfect time to take it out on the freeway, so I drove it back. That was
awsome! I've driven EV's before, but never on the freeway. In all I drove it
about 23 miles, which left me with 48% according to the emeter.
EVgrin all the way!
Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Ricky Suiter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Setup in the Saturn is as follows:
> 12 Trojan 30XHS flooded batteries
> PFC30 charger.
>
> Trojan says to charge to 14.6 volts per battery, so 12X14.6
> is 175.2 volts. I have the timer set to 3 at the moment. It
> brought the pack up to 175.2 volts and the timer light
> started flashing. It was slowly dropping in current near the
> end, but shut off at about 8 amps still flowing in to the
> pack. I should have more time on the timer until it trickles
> down to about an amp right?
Yes, you need more time on the timer.
For those batteries the current should taper to about 2A and then
ideally you would hold it at 2A for another hour or so (to provide the
required overcharge). The PFC30 can't do the final constant current
portion unless you manually re-adjust the charger near the end of each
charge cycle, so you will have to just set the timer long enough to
allow charging to continue for anhour or so after the current falls to
2A. Check your s.g. after charging and if it is not up to about 1.290
increase the charge timer some more. Note that as you break the
batteries in they may take less time to taper down to 2A, so you may
need to re-adjust the timer.
If you have the ability to do so, I would suggest setting your battery
current limit no higher than 500A (400A preferably) with those
batteries.
Cheers,
Roger.
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, basically, what scheme is being used to sense the voltage?
Danny
Edward Ang wrote:
What schematic?
An opto is used to replicate the on-board alarm
indicator on the dash. Also, this simplifies wiring
since you could now use the vehicle chassis as the
common ground for all battery units.
Another is used to activate equalization mode. This
also simplifies wiring because you could again use a
common ground and a common equalization enable wire.
So, you only have to run 1 unique wire to each battery
unit. The rest are common to all.
Ed Ang
--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So I have to ask, is this EWS based on using
optocouplers in analog mode
like that schematic shown earlier?
Danny
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Good deal, that's not far from me. Do they have anything for either 72 or 144
volt?
Rick
Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
They have a regular auction the 2nd Sat of every month at 1616 S 67th Ave, the
Sept 17 auction is an 'extra' that is off premises.
They never have a full list online, things arrive sometimes on friday. If you
give them a call you can get on the mailing list which sends out a brochure
that is better than the website, but you have to look at the list and also the
photos to see the full extent of the things to be auctioned.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shawn Rutledge"
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
> Any idea when these chargers will be auctioned? The web site says the
> next aucton is Sept 17, and doesn't give future dates, and the
> inventory list does not show the chargers.
>
> On 9/22/05, Rush wrote:
>> http://wsmauctioneers.com/
>>
>> Good auction. Lots of fleet cars/trucks that work well and are 'cheap'. Lots
>> of heavy equipment that seems to go for good money. I find the metal getting
>> expensive, but since the price of fuel is getting high, I don't go up that
>> often. Get there early for a good parking spot.
>>
>> Rush
>> Tucson AZ
>> www.ironandwood.org
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bill Dennis"
>> To:
>> Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 1:25 PM
>> Subject: RE: Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
>>
>>
>> > Got an IP address for the auction? I can't find it.
>> >
>> > Bill Dennis
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
>> > Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 12:45 PM
>> > To: [email protected]
>> > Subject: Re:Chargers at Oct.7 auction in Phoenix
>> >
>> > Western Sales auctions has at least 10 gould chargers ranging up to 200
>> > volts
>> > and 50 amps coming from APS.Probaly pennies on a dollar.
>> >
>> > Dennis Berube
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Some interesting reading here:
http://www.memagazine.org/backissues/september99/departments/tech_focus/techfocus2.html
so apparently this company has the molds to make a more refined version
that weighs even less than the body up on eBay. Perhaps this improved
version is what is still sitting on the shelf for potential production
someday "when conditions are right"... more reading here:
http://www.solectria.com/products/accomp.html#sunrise
--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com
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--- Begin Message ---
I thought some folks on this list may find this interesting.
Forwarded from the SEVA list.
If you are in the area (Seattle/Tacoma) this Saturday and want get in to the
EVent with a free pit pass, info you will need is here-
http://www.seattleeva.org/index.php/Current_events
==================================================
Howdy Folks
After bleeding the brakes, finalizing the wiring and immobilizing it with
tie wraps, charging up the batteries, and snappin' a couple of photos, we
were able to take the racin' chair out on it's maiden voyage this evening.
It was right after sunset, but not dark yet, FT checked to see if his police
officer neighbor was home and we decided to do our neighborhood runs to test
the chair in the other direction :^D
Don made a couple of passes and appeared to be quite satisfied with the
result.
I then made a few runs back and forth down the street to get used to it.
On 48V, through the controller, it gets right on up to approx. 50ish mph.
We did not test the 72V controller bypass, Don intends to save that one for
the actual EVent :^D
The thing handles great and is quite stable. In addition to the front wheel
brake, it has a large motorcycle brake on each rear wheel independently
operated by their own master cylinder and foot brake, sorta like a dune
buggy.
The lazyboy road course/drag races are supposed to happen around 12:30 pm
and we have 45 scheduled minutes to do our thing.
I will be announcing the lazyboy races from the tower. Should be interesting
:-0
I spoke with Chuck Lyford today and he said his chair is done and on the
trailer.
I hear that Dave Cloud is bringing two chairs.
Blatant Pitch to Get Folks There-
Hobnob with racing legends, see all the vintage racing vehicles owned and
raced by those same racing legends up close, get into the EVent for free,
see EV crazies racing their homespun creations and having too much fun, see
all the racin' of the day with what is essentially a (free) pit pass, you
will be able to tell your grandchildren that you were there, OK... enough
already. BE THERE!
Detailed info for folks that need it-
http://www.seattleeva.org/index.php/Current_events
See y'all there!
===========================
.
Roy LeMeur
Olympia WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
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>> You might be able to improve motor efficiency by 1% or 2% with a well
>> designed automatic transmission, but I think you'll end up loosing that
>> much, or more, in the pumps and controlls. If you come up with a really
>> good design, you /might/ improve total efficiency by 1%. You have to
>> decide whether or not that is worth all the extra cost, complexity, and
>> time
>
> If there is a CVT tranny available for this car that might be easier.
> Still
> less efficient than a manual but better than a traditional auto tranny.
> LR...
I doubt it. I have yet to see a CVT whose mechanical efficiecny exceeds
an automatic transmission.
CVTs can help improve overall efficiency when coupled to an ICE with it's
narrow efficiency band, but I'm pretty sure they would drop your over all
efficiency (compared to either manual or automatics) when coupled to an
electric motor.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi David,
I didn't realize that you were a fellow water walker.
Cheers, Pete.
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> USAF (RET)
>
> "I live in the heavens. I reside on mountain tops. I am at constant vigil
> over thee. I monitor thy righteous ways. Thy levels art mine to command.
> When thou art in trouble, I will help thee through distorted times. When
> thou art low, the touch of my hand shall raise thy spirit to the proper
> level. When thou are too high, I shall terminate thee with a swift stroke
> of
> my sword. When thy wires are frayed and broken, my angels shall use solder
> and iron to heal thee. Thou art the circuit, I am the chosen one, I am the
> TECH CONTROLLER!"
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't have any specific knowledge to offer, however, if the resistor did
indeed fry, then something else probably failed and caused excessive
current to flow through it.
Check near by components, perhaps a transistor shorted out, frying the
resistor, and then burned open.
> Same deal with my power steering motor controller, only there is zero
> output
> from it. And again, I've have isolated the problem to that component. It's
> a
> DC30-276V. I did find one resister on it that seemed like it could have
> been
> fried, but replacing it didn't help.
>
> Any ideas here as well?
>
> Jacob Harris
> E-10
> Sebastopol, CA
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sep 15, 2005, at 9:48 PM, Doug Weathers wrote:
I whipped out a drawing program and made an angle gauge with an 8"
radius curve and printed it out and stuck it to the motor with tape,
just to see how it looked. Not bad, actually. Does the list have any
suggestions for making a more permanent version of this?
Jay Donnaway suggested having a trophy maker produce one in aluminum.
I think he'll look into that for his own motor.
Laminating it probably won't last very long either - it would leak
from the edges. The file is a PDF - it's on my website at
<http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/static/files/motor-advance-
gauge.pdf>. And if you print it 125% bigger, it should produce a
gauge for a 9" motor, although I haven't tried this yet.
I hope nobody else tried this yet, because 9 divided by 8 is actually
1.125, or 112.5% bigger. Not 125% as I stated above. Sorry about
that.
In an attempt to make it up to you, I took some pictures and posted
them on my website. Enjoy.
<http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/static/galleries/variable-
timing-motor/>
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
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At 10:25 PM 22/09/05 -0500, jim lockwood wrote:
bad boy quick charge...240 volt line, line 1 direct to bridge rectifier.
line 2 run through variac then to bridge rectifier ( fuse each line ) adjust
to 170 to 180 volt watching amp load with clamp on meter...will this work???
Variac connections need to be as follows:
L1 (active)------@ ________
@ | |
@<----|AC +|----Batt+
@ | bridge |
@ | |
L2 or [EMAIL PROTECTED]|AC -|----Batt-
|________|
The actual variac connections will vary depending on what taps the variac
has. The maximum amps is what the variac can handle. If the variac is only
small there is an alternative to use a transformer to buck or boost the
mains voltage that is controlled by the variac. Don't forget the rectifier
needs to be on a heatsink.
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 01:45 AM 23/09/05 -0700, Doug Weathers wrote:
In an attempt to make it up to you, I took some pictures and posted
them on my website. Enjoy.
<http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/static/galleries/variable-
timing-motor/>
Which didn't work because Doug put a space in where there wasn't one, this
works:
http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/static/galleries/variable-timing-motor/
James
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--- Begin Message ---
Picked up my S-10 US Electricar, converted to Wave controller,
last weekend and towed it from San Jose to Sunnyvale.
Decided to participate in Palo Alto EV display (truck has no
batteries yet, so won't go anywhere) and organised another tow
to Palo Alto for Saturday.
In the mean time I have continued testing my selected AGM batteries
(110 Ah, 12V) and the spec of 80 Ah in 1-hour discharge seem a little
positive, but the batteries have held up for 20 cycles each without
losing much capacity, even though I am such a scatter-brain that I have
at least two times for each battery forgotten to disconnect the load
(wire of 0.16 Ohm, 75A) and drawn the batteries way lower than 10V.
So that may also cause some part of the problem.
Also I have charged with too high voltage initially, so that may have
caused an initial loss of capacity.
Still, they are testing around 65 Ah at 1-hour load, so that is pretty
decent because I do not give them much time to go to fload-load state.
Anybody interested in these batteries can contact me or come see me at
the Palo Alto Highschool parking lot on Saturday.
I will bring the two batteries I have tested, plus some 250A breakers
and a 91 BMW 325i that has its engine for sale....
The batteries will cost $85 each including shipping to the Bay Area.
These batteries appear to be used in large quantities on oil rigs
(don't ask me) and can be shipped with all the same date codes
(same batch) without additional cost.
They have a full year warranty from date of purchase; I asked if
that includes a 20% loss of capacity within the year and they did
confirm that was a reason to grant a replacement battery.
Cycle life is not so well know, likely 300 full cycles (600 half
cycles at max current) but they specify more that they last for
5 - 7 years than the nr of cycles.
I will also attend the EV conversion workshop the next day in
Cupertino, so see you at either of these events, or talk to you on
email if you can't make it.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
--- End Message ---
