EV Digest 4752
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Adjustable timing 8-inch motor - correction and photos
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Battery shunt/EVILbus
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: I want to buy an EV car.
by "Darrin Isaak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: I want to buy an EV car.
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: I want to buy an EV car.
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Battery shunt
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Battery shunt/EVILbus
by Meta Bus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Variac voltage no load vs. load.
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Vicor PFC Mini as charger
by Meta Bus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Battery shunt/EVILbus
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Battery shunt/EVILbus
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Battery shunt/EVILbus
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) OT: DMV Collector Status. California.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 mil es in my
EV
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Battery shunt/EVILbus
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Battery shunt/EVILbus
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Need help with conceptual math
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Job Openings - Curtis PMC- Livermore, CA
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) 64 V controller needed
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: 64 V controller needed
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Idea for Park
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Job Openings - Curtis PMC- Livermore, CA
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Vacuum booster
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) creaky rear struts in VoltsRabbit - slightly O.T.
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: AIR Lab's Early Warning System
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: AIR Lab's Early Warning System
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Who are the Avcon Guys.
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: AIR Lab's Early Warning System
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) RE: Father Time Lazyboy Racer Update
by "Kevin Coughlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: creaky rear struts in VoltsRabbit - slightly O.T.
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks, James. I just checked my out box, though, and the space wasn't
there when I sent it. It got added somewhere else.
On Sep 23, 2005, at 1:57 AM, James Massey wrote:
At 01:45 AM 23/09/05 -0700, Doug Weathers wrote:
In an attempt to make it up to you, I took some pictures and posted
them on my website. Enjoy.
<http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/static/galleries/variable-
timing-motor/>
Which didn't work because Doug put a space in where there wasn't one,
this works:
http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/static/galleries/variable-
timing-motor/
James
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ralph Merwin wrote:
The upside of having several parallel projects is that there's good chance
of someone getting something working finally! When someone comes up with
a system that everyone wants to use, *that system* will become the standard,
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
regardless of any other discussions.
Ralph
Ralph,
Can you please point me to a single thing *everyone* wants to use?
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am interested in the sparrow. I have heard that it has problems with the
controller?? What can you tell me???
Darrin Isaak
AMCO TRANSPORTATION LOGISTICS
541-617-8400
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.amcotrans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: I want to buy an EV car.
www.myersmotors.com
Should be avialable Oct-Nov.
Rod
--- Darrin Isaak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I would like to buy an EV car. Anyone know where I
can get one? Does anyone have a RAV4-EV for sale? I
will buy it!!!!
Darrin Isaak
AMCO TRANSPORTATION LOGISTICS
541-617-8400
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.amcotrans.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:23 AM 9/23/2005, Darrin Isaak wrote:
I am interested in the sparrow. I have heard that it has problems
with the controller?? What can you tell me???
You should probably join the Sparrow_EV group on Yahoo.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sparrow_ev/
and read the archives a bit.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Controller problems are no longer an issue since they
use a Zilla 1K control. The unsupported Kilovac had
the most problems. There was some issues with the
Curtis and DCP controls, but I don't know the details.
Rod
--- Darrin Isaak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am interested in the sparrow. I have heard that it
> has problems with the
> controller?? What can you tell me???
>
> Darrin Isaak
>
> AMCO TRANSPORTATION LOGISTICS
> 541-617-8400
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> www.amcotrans.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 1:18 PM
> Subject: Re: I want to buy an EV car.
>
>
> > www.myersmotors.com
> > Should be avialable Oct-Nov.
> > Rod
> >
> > --- Darrin Isaak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >> I would like to buy an EV car. Anyone know where
> I
> >> can get one? Does anyone have a RAV4-EV for sale?
> I
> >> will buy it!!!!
> >>
> >> Darrin Isaak
> >>
> >> AMCO TRANSPORTATION LOGISTICS
> >> 541-617-8400
> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> www.amcotrans.com
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Did the design for most of the board. I already have done this hardware
design in another project. I already have code for reading the ADC, the
software is not hard. PIC18F1320 will probably be the controller. So
basically it's a no-brainer. I am sending off an order of boards soon
and will throw that design onto it.
I don't really understand how this bus would work. When another node
starts talking the derived receive clock will not be in sync with the Tx
clock so at least 1 character will be lost. And unless you rewrite the
terminal program- which may require knowledge of a number of different
platforms unless you're doing something like Java- the terminal won't be
able to be inserting into the ring. It wouldn't respect the proper time
for transmitting without contention and won't filter out traffic between
the nodes. Is the terminal supposed to seize control as the master or
is it just another slave?
Danny
Ralph Merwin wrote:
How far along is your node? Which CPU are you using?
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Can you please point me to a single thing *everyone* wants to use?
A flush toilet. It's just down the hall.
;-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Let see.
288 AC
Rectified is 288 times 1.414 is 407 Sans diode drop of 1.4 volts is 405
volts. With ripple. LOTS of ripple. Add a 450 volt electrolytic cap Say 4500
uF, and you get 405 as a steady state
DC value. This data point has to be taken literally for the selecting
Capacitors diodes and IGBTs or Mosfets. This voltage is rather soft if you
are drawing much current, But you have to plan on it.
Your .90 power factor is only if you are drawing current, the peak
voltage point ,is the design point for voltage withstand.
So... your PF number is in Error, You need to add in the rectfication
multifplier of the square root of 2 wich is 1.414. The Sinusiod has a peak
of 405. Power factor has very little to do with peak static line voltages
and rectified values. Since the voltage peak and the Amps peak can be out of
sync.
It sure as heck matters once you start to draw current!!!
This is why a Variac charger can seam totally under control at a certain
setting then boil or Gas a AGM or other VERY still battery pack. Once the
amps drop the final voltage swings up to the peak as your current drops.
Given light loads You Will see this.
I have been known to just leave my hand on the Variac while chattering and
charging stuff, The volts really do "Scream" if you don't have your hand on
the throttle Knob of your Variac.
I spent hours doing the Variac manual controller last night.... I am wearing
out my 50 amp Variac.
So I know this helps... I run this calc a few times a day.....and measure
the results.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Mirco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rhett George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 1:07 PM
Subject: Variac voltage no load vs. load.
> - Greetings -
>
> A good discussion wass begun by Lawrence on measuring ac volts and dc
volts.
> There is a little pesky math that must be included for the dc voltmeter.
>
> If one gets 288 vac using the 10% at each end taps found on some Variacs
> from a 240 vac line, there is more voltage to send to the bridge
rectifier.
> Discounting the voltage drop in the diodes, the rectified and unfiltered
> vdc has an rms voltage of 288 volts. Lee has pointed out that the peak is
> over 400 volts. However, most dc voltmeters read average voltage. The
recti-
> fied and unfiltered 288 volt sinusoid (remember it is rectified) has an
> average value of 0.90 * 288 = 259 vdc. This is what persuades the
ordinary
> dc voltmeter.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Rhett George
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
Meta Bus wrote:
I have a Vicor-labeled PFC Mini that takes 115/230v AC and outputs
300v DC (10 amps). I intend to use it as an overnight charger for
my 288v gel pack (48 Deka 8G31DT's paralleled pairs, providing
195.2 AH at C/20)
Does anyone have info/experience on/with Vicor, or an URL to their
site (I need docs)?
www.vicr.com
I've used Vicor modules, and they make very good stuff. It is extremely
reliable if used within its ratings.
But that 300v output makes me wonder. Vicor doesn't make any supplies
with outputs over 48vdc. What you have may be a HAM module "front end",
intended to drive external DC/DC modules for lower voltages.
The Vicor HAM module's output is not isolated, and only semi-voltage
regulated. You cannot use it as a battery charger by itself. The HAM
modules are boost converters. They rectify and boost the incoming AC to
approximately 230-400vdc (varies with input AC voltage and output load).
This DC is intended to drive one or more of their isolated DC/DC
modules.
Thank you Lee-- upon closer examination (and looking for docs on
vicr.com) I realize I misread the label-- the module apparently offers
300 VDC 10 Amps as an input option (not as the output).
I'm still not sure what it is I have (there is a model number
PM1-03B-28, but part number is "Cust Part" and revision is "Cust Rev").
I'll write to Vicor and give them the serial number and see if they can
tell me what I have.
Regards,
Jim Davis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tikhonov writes:
>
> Ralph Merwin wrote:
>
> > The upside of having several parallel projects is that there's good chance
> > of someone getting something working finally! When someone comes up with
> > a system that everyone wants to use, *that system* will become the standard,
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> > regardless of any other discussions.
> >
> > Ralph
>
> Ralph,
>
> Can you please point me to a single thing *everyone* wants to use?
Let me reword that as "a system that enough people want to use..."
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 2005-09-23, Meta Bus wrote:
> Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> >
> >Can you please point me to a single thing *everyone* wants to use?
>
> A flush toilet. It's just down the hall.
Note: there are several different standards for flush
toilets, worldwide :-)
-----sharks
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I noticed something I missed the first time.
The connector is supposed to be an RCA jack, yet this was described as a
differential line and neither side is grounded. This is not acceptable
from an RCA jack, you've got the shield as live. No can do. The RCA
jack often leaves that conductor exposed to the world. In fact some of
the panel mount connector hardware will tie the panel to the shield.
It's not good to bastardize the connector and cable in an unconventional
manner.
I'm really not sure if this is really going to be any different than
single-ended anyways. I think it should just be a shielded single
conductor signal- ground the shield and move on.
Danny
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I found this on the Arcane list. It might benefit anyone dealing in rare
automobiles we do with EV's. Lawrence Rhodes....
From: David Richoux <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Is this about CA DMV? I never heard of such a thing before...
this is what I found on the DMV website - I did not see anything about
fees (but I did not go very deep.)
Collector Motor Vehicles
259. "Collector motor vehicle" means a motor vehicle owned by a
collector, as defined in subdivision (a) of Section 5051, and the motor
vehicle is used primarily in shows, parades, charitable functions, and
historical exhibitions for display, maintenance, and preservation, and
is not used primarily for transportation.
5051. As used in this article, unless the context otherwise requires:
(a) "Collector" is the owner of one or more vehicles described in
Section 5004 or of one or more special interest vehicles, as defined in
this article, who collects, purchases, acquires, trades, or disposes of
such vehicle, or parts thereof, for his or her own use, in order to
preserve, restore, and maintain such vehicle for hobby or historical
purposes.
(b) "Special interest vehicle" is a vehicle of any age which is
unaltered from the manufacturer's original specifications and, because
of its significance, such as an out-of-production vehicle, or a model
of less than 2,000 sold in California in any model year, is being
collected, preserved, restored, or maintained by a hobbyist as a
leisure pursuit.
(c) "Parts car" is a motor vehicle which is owned by a collector to
furnish parts for restoration or maintenance of a special interest
vehicle or a vehicle described in Section 5004 or 5004.6, thus enabling
a collector to preserve, restore, and maintain a special interest
vehicle or a vehicle described in Section 5004 or 5004.6.
(d) "Street rod vehicle" is a motor vehicle, other than a motorcycle,
manufactured in or prior to 1948 which has been individually modified
in its body style or design, including through the use of nonoriginal
or reproduction components, and which may include additional
modifications to other components, including, but not limited to, the
engine, drive train, suspension, and brakes in a manner that does not
adversely affect its safe performance as a motor vehicle or render it
unlawful for highway use.
Amended Ch. 929, Stats. 1990. Effective January 1, 1991
Storage: Manner of Maintenance
5052. Except as otherwise provided by local ordinance, a collector
may maintain one or more vehicles described in Section 5051, whether
currently licensed or unlicensed, or whether operable or inoperable, in
outdoor storage on private property, if every such vehicle and outdoor
storage area is maintained in such manner as not to constitute a health
hazard and is located away from public view, or screened from ordinary
public view, by means of a suitable fence, trees, shrubbery, opaque
covering, or other appropriate means.
Dave Richoux
On Sep 22, 2005, at 4:41 PM, Miles Chappell wrote:
Has anyone besides me had any luck with the DMV reguarding saying you
are a collector in order to reduce fees? I have done it twice now by
filling out a Statement of Facts form. The first time was to get the
State Board of Equalization off my back - they said I owed them $81.00
and they were going to attach my bank account if I didn't pay.
I filled out the form stating "I am a collector" and they dropped the
charges. Today I did the same thing with a Honda motorcycle that they
said had $337.00 in back fees. They looked in the books for 20 minutes
trying to find where it said I was exempt from back fees and
penalties, but they couldn't locate it. They gave it to me anyway and
I got out for $93.00 tax/registration/etc.
If anyone knows the exact exemption, please let me/us know. I have 5
more cars to register.
Miles
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm thinking this battery weight is more apropriate for a small pickup
truck. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew D. Graham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 8:38 AM
Subject: RE: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 mil
es in my EV
Jody,
You are in luck if you're looking for weight data on the 1990 240SX.
That's
what I'm nearly done converting. But with 1600 pounds of batteries alone,
I
think your 3500 pound goal is a little optimistic. Depending on how
exhaustive your weight removal process is, you can expect a glider in the
range of 1750-1900 pounds. Add in your 1600 pounds of batteries and you're
pretty much there already. With motor, controller, charger, contactors,
cable, etc. you'll be maybe 100-200 pounds over your goal.
Now that I think about it, aren't you using the transmission? Mine is
direct
drive, so I didn't include that weight.
I have a spreadsheet that provides the weight of the components and my car
at various stages, if you'd like it.
Matt Graham
Hobe Sound, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 7:36 PM
To: '[email protected]'
Subject: RE: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 mil
es in my EV
Thats why I asked Jerry. That can't be the TOTAL weight of the car with
the
batteries. The reason I am interested is because I am in the planning
stage
of building a 1990 Nissan 240SX. Your range is exactly where I want it.
I
am pretty sure I am going with Trojan T105 batteries at 156 volts with a
Zilla controller. I am a speed junkie so I think that will give me the
ooomph I am looking for with the range I need. I am just hoping my car is
capable of highway speeds for at least 17 miles each way to work. I am
hoping for a 3500 pound total weight with batteries. The Total weight of
the pack (T105, 62 pounds, 26 batteries) will be 1612 pounds. I am hoping
I
can meet my range, speed, and useability goals with this car and the
components I selected.
Does anyone know of a local distributor in the Virginia Beach, VA area
where
I can buy the Trojan T105s at? I think it would be easier than ordering
them.
-----Original Message-----
From: jerry dycus [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 7:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 mil
es in my EV
Hi Jody. Lynn and All,
"Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Wow! That is great data to see.
Yes it is some very interesting data, thanks Lynn.
What is your total weight with batteries?
Look under pounds below and you'll see.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 5:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000
miles
in my EV
Hello Lynn,
What type motor and controller are you using?
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adams, Lynn"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 5:11 PM
Subject: Real world data on 8 Volt Golf Cart Batteries - or 47,000 miles
in
my EV
Well I've been meaning to post my emperical battery data for a while,
and the recent resurgence of the 8V/6V debate pushed me over the edge...
I now have over 47,000 miles in my converted Civic. Car normally uses
18 8 volt golf cart batteries for 144 volts. My second set was the US
8VGC-HC where I installed two additioal batteries in battery boxes
behind the front seats, concluded the extra batteries were not worth it.
Third set was T875's and the fourth (currrent) set the T890's
Below is a summary from actual data taken on my 43 miles commute to
work, recharge at work, and 43 miles home. 86 miles a day every day
speeds from stop and go to 65 mph. Battery pack end of life was defined
as "limping into work with barely enough energy and hoping I can get
home one more time..." Near the end of each pack life, bad batterys
were removed, leaving a bigger load on the ones remaining, but could
usually get 300 to 500 more miles by doing this. Of course if I had a
shorter distance between charges probabally could have gone a lot more
miles.
Here is the data summary:
Type US8V-GC US8V-GCHC T875 T890
Year 2002 2003 2004 2005
miles 12200 14200 16203 5000 so far
Average WH/M 215 227 224 205
Range to 80% 51.4 60 54 57.3
Initial end trip voltage at 15A 142.5 151 143.5 144
Final end trip voltage at 15A 136.5 144 138 143 so
far
Number of batteries 18 20 18 18
pounds 1161 1380 1134 1242
cost 940 1098 1168 1494
miles per pound 10.51 10.29 14.29 ?
Miles per dollar (US) 12.98 12.93 13.87 ?
Cents per mile (US) 0.077 0.077 0.072 ?
I've been very happy with all the batteries so far except the
US8V-GC-HC's. The higher level of plates and acid resulted in greater
acid leaking from the battery during use. They had a significtly
stonger oder and acid residue than any of the others.
When I get to 50,000 miles I'd write a longer piece telling all the
interesting incidents.
Happy EV'ing
Lynn
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How does that list work? Where's the signon address?
Danny
Lee Hart wrote:
It's time to try it again, folks. But I suspect these negotiations will
be as contentious as before, so we should move it off the EVlist to the
EVtech list ([EMAIL PROTECTED] where the last debate was held).
FIRST we have to define the goals. THEN we can usefully discuss a
protocol that can efficiently meet them.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny Miller writes:
>
> How does that list [EVTECH] work? Where's the signon address?
Go to http://mailman.evtech.org/mailman/listinfo/evtech to get more
information and sign up.
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
STEVE CLUNN wrote:
> > 25 miles there, and 25 back, can't charge there. Nearly all highway.
> > 60, 65, an 70 mph limits.
> That not being about to charge ther is going to cost you in battery life .
Ok. I had a look around today and found an outlet on the building.
Thing is though, it's at least 100' away. It could very well need a
125' or even a 150' extension cord to reach it.
Could I pull ~15 amps over this distance for 6 hours? What gauge
cord? I've seen some 10 gauge cords that were of the 50', 100'
variety...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Barnes, Brenda wrote:
> Curtis PMC in Livermore is currently hiring for a number of engineering
> positions.
Hey Otmar, want to get your controller mass produced at a lower cost?
Maybe even get that Inverter built and the DC/DC too?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone have a good used 500 (or close) Amp controller that will go 64 Volts
for sale reasonable? Since no-one has expressed an interest in my C-car as
is I am thinking of finishing it and putting it on the road for use as a
grocery getter up in Cave Creek.
David Chapman
Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I HAVE ONE FROM 72 TO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: David Chapman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 9/23/2005 2:23:51 PM
> Subject: 64 V controller needed
>
> Anyone have a good used 500 (or close) Amp controller that will go 64
Volts
> for sale reasonable? Since no-one has expressed an interest in my C-car
as
> is I am thinking of finishing it and putting it on the road for use as a
> grocery getter up in Cave Creek.
>
> David Chapman
> Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
> http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I didn't mean to imply I wasn't going to fix the emergancy brake!. I
am talking in addition.
For emergancy stops can't beat an emergancy brake, but for parking the
car on a slope, parking brakes are actually poor. They are kind of
analog, how hard is hard enough?
Either you crank them on really hard all the time which can be hard on
the rotors and such or you risk it slipping. When everything cools the
tendency for things to contract could mean a slow rolling out of the
driveway. (Depends on type)
Drums in back are small, lucky this car doesn't have them and are
already undersized for EV's in general They may be hot enough to warp
with the emergancy break if hot and applied to hard.
I think a definitive park would save the emergancy brake for
emergancies. :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Barnes, Brenda wrote:
Curtis PMC in Livermore is currently hiring for a number of engineering
positions.
At 4:19 PM -0500 9/23/05, Ryan Stotts wrote:
Hey Otmar, want to get your controller mass produced at a lower cost?
Maybe even get that Inverter built and the DC/DC too?
Sure, I'd love to. But that has nothing to do with Curtis.
Look what Curtis offers the on road EV market and at what cost.
You can clearly see that having Curtis build Zillas would only raise the cost.
Of course, related to that, if I worked there I would probably make
more money than I do now.
I'm quite familiar with low volume low cost manufacturing.
Unfortunately adding a lot of overhead is the last thing you want to
do in this case. Without one capable person willing to work for
peanuts, none of us smaller manufacturers would stay in business.
Such is how it works out when you run the numbers.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Please don't assume I am recommending driveing without booster and
safeies in place.
But another idea came to mind today that may help in the elcheapo EV
discussions or when space is tight. It depends on what you have avail or
around, just trying to brainstorm.
With the above disclaimer, it seems to me that the vacuum booster was
designed the way it was because there was vacuum available. If the
intakes had all been under pressure, perhaps the vacum booster would
have been built for pressure instead.
A quick theory of operation is the booster is a chamber split in 2 with
a big diaphram and a spring to return it.
vacuum goes thru a valve in the center when your foot is off it and both
sides see vacuum, no assistance.
When you step on the brake pedal, the rod moves forward, closing off the
valve between the 2 chambers and opening one near your foot, letting in
the atmosphere. It is this atmosphere at 14psi(0 gauge) that does the
work. When the piston inside catches up with your foot the valve in back
closes and the one up front opens and it equalizes, thus it follows your
foot.
Soooo
why not leave off the vacuum line and connect an air line to the
other side(need an adapter, no problem) and connect a line to an air
tank and a regulator dropping it down to 14 psi gauge.
It should work the same and now a small tank can be charged to 100 psi
when you charge your batteries and if you want a 12V compressor (way
cheaper and more avail in a pinch than a vacuum pump, mail order only)
that would be a good addition. put a 25psi safety switch to a warning
light or the "start" wire for feedback.
Perhaps some of us already have air pressure on board for those cars
with auto inflate tires, airbags, air shocks. I wonder how long a 4500
psi paintball bottle would last reduced down to 14psi!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The rear strut assemblies on my VoltsRabbit have been rather
creaky lately. I'm wondering if any of the VW gurus out there
have had this problem and solved it.
When I went to replace my battery pack last spring, we decided to
swap sides on the two rear struts to see if a mild rattling
problem would move. The rattling problem would occur in the
passenger side strut when I would go over a road that had a mild
washboard (there's a particular one I'm thinking of on the uphill
south side of Wolfe Grade) in the asphalt. We disassembled the
springs and struts (actually putting in new springs), and the
struts aren't leaking and appear ok. Hopefully we got everything
back together ok. Then we swapped sides. It's rather hard to
tighten up the bolts appearing inside the car body without the
shock absorber turning. It also prevents one from latching on a
torque wrench. Anybody know about the special tool 50-200 (if I
recollect the number correctly) that's mentioned in the factory
service manual to keep the bolt from turning? It's guess and by
gosh as to what torque I'm getting. Things really creaked after
reinstallation. Tightened down some more, and after awhile the
creak became less. But it's still aggravating. It sounds like
rubber slipping on metal, along with the occasional thump when I
go over a bump (thump being more on the left side - old
right-side strut with the noise).
Are the rubber pieces at the top of the strut supposed to be
really well squished? What kinda torque is that going to take?
I think I'm already well over the ~25ft-lbs specified. Do these
rubber pieces ossify with time, and should I try replacing them?
When the shop down the street installed new front struts for me a
few years ago, they creaked while turning for awhile, but the
problem eventually went away.
I saw on a website awhile ago special bearings that could be put
in the rear, but it required a special weld job, which looked
like big work with big chances of screwing up. This rubber stuff
looks like it is a royal pain if it doesn't sit in there right.
I can even hear it creak when I get out of the car and the car
raises up a bit.
Creaking down the road in my electric jalopy,
Chuck
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
http://www.geocities.com/chursch/bizcard.bmp
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why would you want to know as long as it works?
Voltage sense is done with the internal 10-bit ADC on
the micro-controller. It has both hardware and
software filters to eliminate noise. Each unit is
calibrated for accuracy during manufacturing.
Calibration data is stored in the EEPROM.
Recalibration is possible (although not recommended)
in the field after manufacturing.
Ed Ang
AIR Lab Corp.
--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well, basically, what scheme is being used to sense
> the voltage?
>
> Danny
>
> Edward Ang wrote:
>
> >What schematic?
> >
> >An opto is used to replicate the on-board alarm
> >indicator on the dash. Also, this simplifies
> wiring
> >since you could now use the vehicle chassis as the
> >common ground for all battery units.
> >
> >Another is used to activate equalization mode.
> This
> >also simplifies wiring because you could again use
> a
> >common ground and a common equalization enable
> wire.
> >
> >So, you only have to run 1 unique wire to each
> battery
> >unit. The rest are common to all.
> >
> >Ed Ang
> >
> >--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>So I have to ask, is this EWS based on using
> >>optocouplers in analog mode
> >>like that schematic shown earlier?
> >>
> >>Danny
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >__________________________________
> >Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
> >http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
But how is the uC sensing voltages from isolated places?
Danny
Edward Ang wrote:
Why would you want to know as long as it works?
Voltage sense is done with the internal 10-bit ADC on
the micro-controller. It has both hardware and
software filters to eliminate noise. Each unit is
calibrated for accuracy during manufacturing.
Calibration data is stored in the EEPROM.
Recalibration is possible (although not recommended)
in the field after manufacturing.
Ed Ang
AIR Lab Corp.
--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Well, basically, what scheme is being used to sense
the voltage?
Danny
Edward Ang wrote:
What schematic?
An opto is used to replicate the on-board alarm
indicator on the dash. Also, this simplifies
wiring
since you could now use the vehicle chassis as the
common ground for all battery units.
Another is used to activate equalization mode.
This
also simplifies wiring because you could again use
a
common ground and a common equalization enable
wire.
So, you only have to run 1 unique wire to each
battery
unit. The rest are common to all.
Ed Ang
--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So I have to ask, is this EWS based on using
optocouplers in analog mode
like that schematic shown earlier?
Danny
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I need a Avcon Power pack.
Ron was that you???
I lent my Avcon power pack to a Fellow EVer... and it got Sold..
I need to have one on hand and running so I can Tech Support Manzanita Micro
chragers running under Avcon control.
I am not looking for a hand out...
Yes Rick Woodbury, That means you!!
I am trying to reduce my Clueless ness of those early morning phone calls.
Doing charger tech support while my lips and hands are still numb from sleep is
getting old...
Yes I was working on the 75K at midnight last night....
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It is not.
The information I posted is more than enough for you
to figure out how the system works. If not, you are
not reading carefully.
Ed Ang
AIR Lab Corp.
--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> But how is the uC sensing voltages from isolated
> places?
>
> Danny
>
> Edward Ang wrote:
>
> >Why would you want to know as long as it works?
> >Voltage sense is done with the internal 10-bit ADC
> on
> >the micro-controller. It has both hardware and
> >software filters to eliminate noise. Each unit is
> >calibrated for accuracy during manufacturing.
> >Calibration data is stored in the EEPROM.
> >Recalibration is possible (although not
> recommended)
> >in the field after manufacturing.
> >
> >Ed Ang
> >AIR Lab Corp.
> >
> >--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>Well, basically, what scheme is being used to
> sense
> >>the voltage?
> >>
> >>Danny
> >>
> >>Edward Ang wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>What schematic?
> >>>
> >>>An opto is used to replicate the on-board alarm
> >>>indicator on the dash. Also, this simplifies
> >>>
> >>>
> >>wiring
> >>
> >>
> >>>since you could now use the vehicle chassis as
> the
> >>>common ground for all battery units.
> >>>
> >>>Another is used to activate equalization mode.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>This
> >>
> >>
> >>>also simplifies wiring because you could again
> use
> >>>
> >>>
> >>a
> >>
> >>
> >>>common ground and a common equalization enable
> >>>
> >>>
> >>wire.
> >>
> >>
> >>>So, you only have to run 1 unique wire to each
> >>>
> >>>
> >>battery
> >>
> >>
> >>>unit. The rest are common to all.
> >>>
> >>>Ed Ang
> >>>
> >>>--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>So I have to ask, is this EWS based on using
> >>>>optocouplers in analog mode
> >>>>like that schematic shown earlier?
> >>>>
> >>>>Danny
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>__________________________________
> >>>Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
> >>>http://mail.yahoo.com
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >__________________________________
> >Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
> >http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wait..... WAYLAND says something is too fast? *grin*.
Scary thing is.... I agree, and would STILL like to try it myself!
I'll try and get some good pictures of the Event.
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John Wayland
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 7:28 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Father Time Lazyboy Racer Update
Roy LeMeur wrote:
> Howdy Folks
>
> After bleeding the brakes, finalizing the wiring and immobilizing it
> with tie wraps, charging up the batteries, and snappin' a couple of
> photos, we were able to take the racin' chair out on it's maiden
> voyage this evening.
> Don made a couple of passes and appeared to be quite satisfied with
> the result.
> We did not test the 72V controller bypass, Don intends to save that
> one for the actual EVent :^D The lazyboy road course/drag races are
> supposed to happen around 12:30 pm and we have 45 scheduled minutes to
> do our thing.
>
Thanks for the report. Please, everyone be careful, as going 50+ mph in a
Lazyboy is definitely over the top! I'll be with you guys in spirit, but
can't make the EVent as we are also racing on the same day - night here in
Portland in a more 'normal' form of racing :-) when Tim and I return to the
PIR track to see what we can wring out of White Zombie.
Make sure to get video of this. Good luck to all the crazed chair racers!
See Ya...John Wayland
--
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nobody seems to have tackled this, so here goes:
I've heard two stories on the biscuits. a) Tighten
the hell out of them, they're made for it, and b) snug
fit. The nylon washer will keep anything from
happening to the bolt, so don't overdo it.
MANY struts, (can't remember on
Volkswagen/VoltsRabbit) have to be LEFT vs. RIGHT.
They are not supposed to be swapped.
A final note: are you sure it's in the strut, or could
it be a ball joint? They are what has given me grief
in vehicles before.
Best of success,
--- Chuck Hursch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The rear strut assemblies on my VoltsRabbit have
> been rather
> creaky lately. I'm wondering if any of the VW gurus
> out there
> have had this problem and solved it.
>
> When I went to replace my battery pack last spring,
> we decided to
> swap sides on the two rear struts to see if a mild
> rattling
> problem would move. The rattling problem would
> occur in the
> passenger side strut when I would go over a road
> that had a mild
> washboard (there's a particular one I'm thinking of
> on the uphill
> south side of Wolfe Grade) in the asphalt. We
> disassembled the
> springs and struts (actually putting in new
> springs), and the
> struts aren't leaking and appear ok. Hopefully we
> got everything
> back together ok. Then we swapped sides. It's
> rather hard to
> tighten up the bolts appearing inside the car body
> without the
> shock absorber turning. It also prevents one from
> latching on a
> torque wrench. Anybody know about the special tool
> 50-200 (if I
> recollect the number correctly) that's mentioned in
> the factory
> service manual to keep the bolt from turning? It's
> guess and by
> gosh as to what torque I'm getting. Things really
> creaked after
> reinstallation. Tightened down some more, and after
> awhile the
> creak became less. But it's still aggravating. It
> sounds like
> rubber slipping on metal, along with the occasional
> thump when I
> go over a bump (thump being more on the left side -
> old
> right-side strut with the noise).
>
> Are the rubber pieces at the top of the strut
> supposed to be
> really well squished? What kinda torque is that
> going to take?
> I think I'm already well over the ~25ft-lbs
> specified. Do these
> rubber pieces ossify with time, and should I try
> replacing them?
>
> When the shop down the street installed new front
> struts for me a
> few years ago, they creaked while turning for
> awhile, but the
> problem eventually went away.
>
> I saw on a website awhile ago special bearings that
> could be put
> in the rear, but it required a special weld job,
> which looked
> like big work with big chances of screwing up. This
> rubber stuff
> looks like it is a royal pain if it doesn't sit in
> there right.
> I can even hear it creak when I get out of the car
> and the car
> raises up a bit.
>
> Creaking down the road in my electric jalopy,
> Chuck
>
> Chuck Hursch
> Larkspur, CA
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
> http://www.geocities.com/chursch/bizcard.bmp
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
