EV Digest 4890

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Fall NEDRA Power of DC photos up
        by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: multimeter
        by Aaron NMLUG-EV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: EV Confidential, Comments
        by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: EV Confidential
        by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Electric motor graphs
        by "Rodney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Those "low end" surplus starter generator kits that several people
 are selling
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) RE: WERKER batteries
        by "Mueller, Craig M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) RE: Electricity vs Hydrogen
        by "Mueller, Craig M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: EV Confidential
        by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: 2006, The Year of Tesla
        by "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: Modifying an E-tek motor
        by Marc Breitman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: Those "low end" surplus starter generator kits that several people are 
selling
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: EV Confidential
        by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) RE: 2006, The Year of Tesla
        by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: OT: 2006, The Year of Tesla
        by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: WERKER batteries
        by Sean Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) RE: WERKER batteries
        by Hump <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: Still wondering about the Zilla HEPI input...
        by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: EVs on Globe Trekker
        by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Unorthodox cell connections
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 21) Re: Dark & stormy night in OR; successful repair
        by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca.
        by "Patrick Maston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Orbital batteries at Sam's Club
        by Ken Albright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) Re: EVs on Globe Trekker
        by Travis Raybold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message --- Just put up a few pictures of Shawn's OJ Dragster and Darin's motorcycle from the Mason Dixon Dragway in Hagerstown, Maryland last weekend.

http://www.powerofdc.com/pdc_fall_05.html

I'm glad I had the chance to go out and cheer them on. Shawn and Darin covered all the technical details. But I have to say the weather was absolutely perfect. It's not often we get 75 degree weather in November. It actually felt like 80 with the sun out. The thing is 150 other drag racers felt the same way so it was really crowded. With the OJ turning in an 11.5 the car was faster then half the gassers that showed up and with 1.5 sec 60 ft time OJ was one of the quickest off the line. And Darin's bike kept up with most the drag bikes there. The first time Darin pulled up to the line the track announcer said, "I don't know what that is, but I want one!" The impromptu race really helped Shawn and Darin test their vehicles to make improvements for the 2006 NEDRA season. Shawn will be racing at the NEDRA Battery Beach Burnout organized by Shawn Waggoner in West Palm Beach Florida January 21.

We may do this again next Fall. It will be called the NEDRA Power of DC Fall Classic. Nothing fancy like the Spring Power of DC. Just bring your EVs down for a few runs. Hopefully the weather will be in the 70's again.

We are looking at either June 4 or June 11 for the next Power of DC. We will have more information on the 2006 NEDRA schedule soon.

And we'll see yall in Florida January 21 at the Battery Beach Burnout.

Chip Gribben
NEDRA Northeast Coordinator
NEDRA Webmaster
http://www.nedra.com





--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 2005-11-07 at 08:43, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> Jameco has a Fluke knockoff for under 70 dollars.
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=215589
> I bought a 14 dollar cheapie with temp sensor which is within .05 volts. 
> Cheap is relative.  I've had Radio Shack voltmeters which were perfectly 
> good for testing.  What you might do (if you are worried about accuracy)is 
> get a friend with a fluke or other good multimeter to measure a few 
> resistors and a battery down to the hundredths.

I have a fluke.  It stays mostly on the bench and I rarely use it.
I use it mostly to calibrate my every-day meters.
I think my accuracy is fine with a calibrated cheap meter.

Then again, I have one cheap meter for current, another for
voltage... all calibrated in the range where I am using
them if I care about accuracy.
 
-- 
Aaron Birenboim         \    I have an inferiority complex,
Albuquerque, NM, USA     \       but its not a very good one.
aaron at birenboim.com    \
http://aaron.birenboim.com \

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jerry halstead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 8:29 AM
Subject: EV Confidential


> http://movies.monstersandcritics.com/news/article_1060491.php/
> Electric_cars_powered_by_controversy
>
> The reporter seems to have a bit of a bias:
>
> "Sony Pictures Classics has just acquired the rights to a documentary
> called 'EV Confidential', a politically charged movie that takes a
> look at Electric Vehicles. You know, those ugly, underpowered things
> that no self-respecting individual wants to drive… damn the gas prices."
>   Hi All;

    That's what HE said. The Movie may be on our side? Will be staying
tuned, as ya never know by release gas could go up again? After all USA
motorists are fat ,dumb and happy with the latest " Drop " in prices. Or a
Cold Winter and Fool Oil prices go through the roof. Been splitting a few
chords of wood, ready, THIS year.

    Seeya

    Bob
> -Jerry
>
> http://www.evconvert.com/
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Jerry, thanks for the heads up. I watched the trailer at www.evconfidential.com. This should be a great film about the death of the EV1. I can't wait to see it! I hope they show it in main stream theatres, probably not though. It may get around like "The End of Suburbia" has www.endofsuburbia.com.

Roderick Wilde
Director, Citizens for Rideable Communities
www.rideablecommunities.org


---- Original Message ----- From: "jerry halstead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 5:29 AM
Subject: EV Confidential


http://movies.monstersandcritics.com/news/article_1060491.php/
Electric_cars_powered_by_controversy

The reporter seems to have a bit of a bias:

"Sony Pictures Classics has just acquired the rights to a documentary
called 'EV Confidential', a politically charged movie that takes a
look at Electric Vehicles. You know, those ugly, underpowered things
that no self-respecting individual wants to drive… damn the gas prices."

-Jerry

http://www.evconvert.com/




--
Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/146 - Release Date: 10/21/2005




--
Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/146 - Release Date: 10/21/2005

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey all,

Just wondering what people think about various high performance motors. Most
prefer either ADC or WarP motors? Any thoughts? 

And does anyone have the power/torque charts for the 9" motors for upper end
torque and power (1000 and 2000 Amps and 300+ Volts)? The only ones I can
find are for much lower values!!

Cheers

Rod

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello David and All,

David Dymaxion wrote:

Great description! Were you able to adjust the field strength
independently of the armature? In other words, was it 12V-24V-48V
across both the field and armature together, or did the armature have
a different voltage than the field?
Yes, I was able to independently control the field. I used a fairly simple control that consisted of a beefy TO3 package transistor on a heat sink and a potentiometer that varied base current. I could 'dial in' anything from about 12 volts to 48 volts. I also had a second way of getting regen without playing with the field at all, and this was simply a byproduct of my 3 step contactor controller.

The controller worked this way. At the first depression of the accelerator pedal, a micro switch would engage 1st speed. The car would start off with the eight 6 volt batteries wired in a series-parallel 24V setup through a forklift nichrome resistor that helped reduce the initial jerk of torque. The resistor 'had' to be cooled off, or it would try to glow orange-hot. Though resistor control is considered primitive by today's standards, it was only used for that initial take-off period of a 1-5 seconds, so not too much power was dumped away in heat. Speaking of that heat, I used an innovative way of cooling the resistor off. I morphed a 120 vac fan from a desktop type small space heater with a 12 vdc tape drive motor from an 8 track tape player to make a 12 vdc fan (brushless DC muffin fans were not commonly available yet). The input wires to the motor went across the resistor, as I measured anything from 10 volts to 16 volts or so being dropped across it. Thus, the 12V accessory power from the car was not used to run the fan (that draw would have had a minimal effect on the 12V system, but hey, I was still learning stuff). The hotter the resistor tried to get, the faster the fan blew. The very hot exhausted air from this crude affair was channeled into the car's weirdo heating system (the aforementioned wasted motor exhaust air) to give extra heat for warming the cabin in the Winter months.

I digress.....after the 1st resistor/24V stage, as you depressed the accelerator farther down, a second micro switch fired another contactor that would short out the resistor....now the car is accelerating harder at a straight 24 volts.

The last 3rd speed was triggered at full throttle, when the 24V series/parallel contactors would let go and the pack was reconfigured to a straight 48V. Now, for the regen part....if you were flying down the road at 48 volts in the shunt motor mode, then let up a little to trigger the 24V mode, you'd get BIG regen. If you at the same time, twisted the handy dash controlled pot. and dialed up full field current, it would almost lock up the rear tires.

Thanks. I'm wondering if the
shunt acceleration might have been the same as the series with sepex
control.
No, it wouldn't have been. The shunt field windings were very fine wire. Though I had actually turned the motor into a sepex type, to make a really 'effective' sepex motor, the field windings would have needed to be made of fewer turns of thicker wire. The Sepex motors used in the more recent electric forklifts do have considerably smaller field wire size than their series-wound brothers that use thick flat ribbon wire for the fields that like the armature windings have to pass 500 amps of juice, but the field wires are still fairly robust. The field windings of a true sepex type are generally sized somewhere in between a regular shunt-wound motor's fine strands of windings and a series-wound motor's lower number of beefy ribbon wires.

As Lee said, our crude conversions based on these compound-wound starter-generators served as our rolling classrooms.

See Ya.....John Wayland

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jody,

        As I recall, I picked up a small 12V SLA battery for my electric
bike from Batteries Plus with that name on it (and could not find any
specs on the internet when looking for WERKER). I'd suggest looking on
the label to see if there is a secondary supplier (e.g. US Battery or
Trojan). I do know that Batteries Plus re-labels their Trojan-supplied
6V's.

-Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 5:40 AM
To: '[email protected]'
Subject: WERKER batteries

I was down at the local Batteries+ store in Virginia Beach buying a new
battery for my motorcycle and noticed they had golf cart batteries with
a
brand name of WERKER.  They looked just like US2200s but were gray.  Has
anyone ever heard of these?  They were selling a 215 Ah battery for $70
on
the shelf.  I anticipate that if I were to buy 26 I could get a much
better
price.


Jody

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Allan,

        I don't know of any published research on this topic (though, I
expect there is much available). I'd just like to make a quick comment
on the language of the question posed to Fran below; hydrogen fuel cells
are electric generators, as I understand. Thus, the comparison would be
to various competing electrical energy storage devices, when it came to
cost comparison. (i.e. rephrase "fuel cell car over an electric car" to
"hydrogen supplied car over a grid-charged car" or similar).
        The matter of cost comparison to the latter (i.e. the primary
modes users of this list rely upon) is highly variable. As the archives
detail, there is much debate on the balance between 12v, 8v, 6v and
total capacities among lead based batteries (esp. based on driving
profile), and much more when it comes to other battery technologies -
especially, when considering reliability!
        I can think of several ways to approach this question - Let us
know how you fare.

Regards,

Craig

        

-----Original Message-----
From: Allan Alessio [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 12:27 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Electricity vs Hydrogen


Hello all,


I was wondering if anyone has any studies or papers in regard to the
questions below.  I submitted my questions to Fran Pavley.  A copy of
the email is below.

 

 

Dear Fran Pavley,

 

I am writing to you in hopes of getting an answer to my question.  I
have been a follower alternative fuels for a number of years.  In all my
studies and numerous papers I read, I have yet to find an argument that
supports a hydrogen infrastructure over an electric infrastructure.  To
put it in simpler terms, why have a fuel cell car over an electric car?
Seems like the only hurdle with an electric car is range.  This problem
is far closer to a solution verses all the hurdles that need to be
conquered with hydrogen.  Some say the cost of hydrogen fueled car will
never be cheaper than an electric car.  

 

Another question that will clearly point this out.  Let's say we have
two equal amounts of energy, it can be solar or fossil fuel.  One amount
is used to generate electricity to power an electric car.  The other
equal amount is used to generate hydrogen.  With both cars being equal
in weight and other parameters being equal, how far would each car
travel?  My guess would be that the electric car would travel
significantly further.  

 

I hope you can help me find the answer to my questions because as of
now, I am not convinced that a hydrogen infrastructure is the way to go.

 

Sincerely, Allan Alessio 

 

 

 

 

AB 740 - Clean Air, Clean Water, and Coastal Protection Act
On February 19th, 2003, Fran Pavley officially introduced AB 740, The
Clean Air, Clean Water, and Coastal Protection Act of 2004. This piece
of legislation, if approved by the Legislature, would put a bond measure
on the ballot (most likely the March 2004 ballot) for $2.9 billion worth
of general obligation bonds for the financing of an air and water
quality and coastal protection program. Specifically, $500 million of
the $2.9 billion would go towards hydrogen fueling infrastructure and
consumer incentives for the purchase of fuel cell vehicles. This
legislation would also set the stage for additional hydrogen financing
by requiring a plan to be submitted to the Legislature that authorizes
the financing of subsequent fueling infrastructure development through
revenue bonds supported by a tax on hydrogen. EIN has provided, and will
continue to provide when asked, technical and educational support to
legislators and their staffs.

 

AB 740 was brought to committee on February 2, 2004. Despite receiving
overwhelming committee bipartisan support, it was put on suspense
because of the California budget crisis. The bill is expected to be
reintroduced in January 2005.








                
---------------------------------
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 8 Nov 2005 08:29:47 -0500, jerry halstead
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>http://movies.monstersandcritics.com/news/article_1060491.php/ 
>Electric_cars_powered_by_controversy
>
>The reporter seems to have a bit of a bias:
>
>"Sony Pictures Classics has just acquired the rights to a documentary  
>called 'EV Confidential', a politically charged movie that takes a  
>look at Electric Vehicles. You know, those ugly, underpowered things  
>that no self-respecting individual wants to drive… damn the gas prices."

Well, you do have to agree with the ugly part in some cases.  IMHO,
two of the ugliest cars ever made were the Honda EV1/Insight and the
Prius.  Come to think of it, ya gotta admit that "underpowered" fits
far too many EVs.

Gotta quarrel with the last part, though.  I'm pretty sure I'm
self-respecting and I wanna drive mine....

John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
(RE: http://www.jmccanneyscience.com/)

Yeow!... where did you find that gem of a site?

I want a "Laser Satellite Storm Manipulator" too!


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
high current or low voltage...how short of a life are we talking about?
Where can i get these brushes?

On 11/6/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Lemco can supply silver brushes.
> They add 1-2 % percentage points to the efficiency but have shorter
> life at high current.
>
> Shawn Lawless
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 14:17:09 -0700 (MST)
> Subject: RE: Modifying an E-tek motor
>
> <sigh>
> The gentleman stated that he was running the motor at 24V (IIRC)
>
> Granted high speed mods will improve your efficiency IF you run a higher
> voltages, but they don't improve efficiency at 24V.
>
> Sheesh, so much for trying to keep answers short, sweet and to the
> point.
>
> > Regarding ETEK efficiency it was stated:
> >
> >> Simple mods to allow it to survive higher RPMS will
> >> have no effect on efficiency.
> >
> > Well let's see:
> > * power loss is primarily due to heat, which is R*I^2 loss.
> > * power delivered is torque times speed (Pm = T * w )
> >
> > First order, for a given current and once equilibrium is established,
> the
> > torque and power loss remains constant, regardless of RPM. This means
> > that
> > the greater the speed or voltage available (or tolerable), the more
> the
> > efficiency increases for the ETEK. The ETEK motor curves support
> this by
> > showing efficiency at peak power increasing with motor voltage and
> RPM.
> >
> >>From a simplified model view,
> >
> > eff = Pout/Pin
> > Pout = T * w ~ Kt * Im * w
> > Pin = Vm * Im ~ (Kb*w + Im*R)* Im
> > Kt = Kb
> >
> > eff ~ (Kt*w)/(Kb*w+Im*Rm)
> > = 1/(1+Im*Rm/(Kt*w))
> > = 1/(1+Ki/w) ; Ki = Im*Rm/Kb ~ constant for given Im, Rm, Kb
> > = w/(w+Ki)
> > ==> 1 as w increases!
> >
> > Again, that's first order and doesn't include magnetic core, windage
> and
> > other losses.
> >
> > So it is indeed arguably correct that simple changes in strength to
> allow
> > the ETEK's rotor to handle higher voltage and higher continuous speed
> WILL
> > increase the efficiency. It's not a linear equation, but unless
> you've
> > modeled the other losses, it's hard to argue that increasing the speed
> > will
> > not increase the efficiency.
> >
> > -Myles Twete, Portland, Or.
> > (cruising 6knots with 5.4kw (150amps, 36v) ETEK power)
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do
> whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Wayland wrote:
> I used both the shunt and series sections of the GE 2CM77 'compound
> wound' motor... For a while, I captured the waste heated cooling air
> and channeled it into the passenger compartment for heat. It provided
> quite a bit, but the air smelled like a hot 40+ year old surplus motor
> and it was unhealthy to breath the brush dust filled exhaust air...
> not one of my more brilliant ideas!

Yep; I tried it and discarded that idea, too. The air stinks!

> When I used the waste heat for cabin warmth, I came up with a nifty
> trick. I used a heat exchanger heater hose from an air cooled VW Beetle.

Now that *is* a nifty trick! Wish I'd thought of it!

> the motor had a jet engine sounding whine, much more entertaining

Yes; people thought it was a neat sound. "What have you got in that thing, a 
turbine?" Ok in a truck or sports car, but it would get annoying in a family 
car or "nice quiet EV".

> I used an innovative way of cooling the resistor off...
> 12 vdc fan... wired across the resistor... anything from 10-16 volts
> dropped across it... The hotter the resistor tried to get, the faster
> the fan blew.

Another great idea!

John's controller was very similar to mine. I also had a 3-step controller, 
but with 36v and 72v. The starting resistor was really just a long strip of 
steel packing crate banding. Cheap, but not as durable as a proper nichrome 
resistor (I burned it in two on more than one occasion :-)

You're not supposed to drive with the starting resistor on for very long, as 
it wastes a lot of power. One trick used in turn-of-the century controllers, 
and a few semi-modrn forklifts, was to duct the starting resistor heat onto 
the driver's feet or seat. If he wanted the heat, fine; at least the energy 
is being put to some use. If not, the driver got a hot-foot or a hot-seat as 
an indication to stop doing that!
-- 
Lee A. Hart    814 8th Ave N    Sartell MN 56377    [EMAIL PROTECTED]

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Let me get this right. A cheese wedge driver is dissing my beautiful red Insight? Well now that's definitely the last straw... kick him off the list :-)

damon


From: Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: EV Confidential
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2005 12:20:10 -0500

On Tue, 8 Nov 2005 08:29:47 -0500, jerry halstead
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>http://movies.monstersandcritics.com/news/article_1060491.php/
>Electric_cars_powered_by_controversy
>
>The reporter seems to have a bit of a bias:
>
>"Sony Pictures Classics has just acquired the rights to a documentary
>called 'EV Confidential', a politically charged movie that takes a
>look at Electric Vehicles. You know, those ugly, underpowered things
>that no self-respecting individual wants to drive… damn the gas prices."

Well, you do have to agree with the ugly part in some cases.  IMHO,
two of the ugliest cars ever made were the Honda EV1/Insight and the
Prius.  Come to think of it, ya gotta admit that "underpowered" fits
far too many EVs.

Gotta quarrel with the last part, though.  I'm pretty sure I'm
self-respecting and I wanna drive mine....

John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You forgot
D) all of the above

:-)

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lightning Ryan
Sent: Tuesday, 8 November 2005 10:17 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 2006, The Year of Tesla


Umm, what does it do?
A) Transmit power through the atmosphere?
B) Put on one heck of a light show?
C) Impress your neighbors?

L8r
 Ryan

Ryan Stotts wrote:

>"have just completed the preliminary plans to build a full scale Tesla
tower "
>http://www.jmccanneyscience.com/
>Nice color pic of what might be the original on that page too.
>http://www.jmccanneyscience.com/tesla%20tower%20cerca%201900.jpg
>What was it supposed to do again?
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
(don't forget the "OT" qualifier here guys)

Tesla's Wardenclyffe Tower was supposed to be a world or at least transatlantic broadcast station. People have also suggested it was part of his wireless power transmission plans, communicating with aliens, or a "death ray" (all elements of Tesla's work).

In fact no one is really clear on how that tower was supposed to work. Its intended workings were not completed nor were they well documented, contemporary and modern engineers haven't been able to make sense of the purpose of its shape, and it was demolished in 1917.

The tower was the beginning of Tesla's period where he went mostly crazy. Well, notably more crazy than before. Whether the failure of the tower project drove him mad or he was already nuts and the project was the work of a madman from the onset is a matter of speculation.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wardenclyffe_Tower

I'm not sure how you could plan to reconstruct a functional tower based on a design you don't even know the function of. Well, it's not my money and it's sure to be interesting. Especially coming from these "I have seen government laser satellites are controlling the weather" folks.

Danny

Lightning Ryan wrote:

Umm, what does it do?
A) Transmit power through the atmosphere?
B) Put on one heck of a light show?
C) Impress your neighbors?

L8r
Ryan

Ryan Stotts wrote:

"have just completed the preliminary plans to build a full scale Tesla tower "
http://www.jmccanneyscience.com/
Nice color pic of what might be the original on that page too.
http://www.jmccanneyscience.com/tesla%20tower%20cerca%201900.jpg
What was it supposed to do again?





--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just called my local battery store, and asked what they had 
for golf car batteries.  Trojan was the response, so I asked 
how much the T-105 batteries are - $59.95 each, with some sort 
of a deal for a quantity purchase - like 20.

I was also told about someone who has an S-10 pickup converted 
that's in South Carolina and has dealt with these batteries a 
bit, as well as some new ones from Trojan made specifically 
for a certain golf car (can't remember the type!) - the 
batteries are 12V, same capacity as the T105, but only around 
80 lbs.  Cost is not quite double the T-105 either.  As far as 
the guy I was talking to knew, there was no specific part 
number, they're just used in this certain golf car in a pack 
of 4.

Anyone know what these batteries are or who this mystery South 
Carolina person is (are you on this list)?

Sean Taylor
Urbana, IL

---- Original message ----
>Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 06:39:56 -0500 
>From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
mil>  
>Subject: WERKER batteries  
>To: "'[email protected]'" <[email protected]>
>
>I was down at the local Batteries+ store in Virginia Beach 
buying a new
>battery for my motorcycle and noticed they had golf cart 
batteries with a
>brand name of WERKER.  They looked just like US2200s but were 
gray.  Has
>anyone ever heard of these?  They were selling a 215 Ah 
battery for $70 on
>the shelf.  I anticipate that if I were to buy 26 I could get 
a much better
>price.
>
>
>Jody
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sounds like the T1275. 

http://www.trojanbattery.com/Products/ProductSpec.aspx?Name=T1275

They have nowhere near the same AH capacity, and only slightly near the WH 
capacity of a T105. They also don't list a 75 amp capacity, so I would be tend 
to assume that the cycle life on heavy amp draws will be dismal.

Stay Charged!

Hump  



 (can't remember
the type!) - the batteries are 12V, same capacity as the T105, but only
around 80 lbs.  Cost is not quite double the T-105 either.  As far as the
guy I was talking to knew, there was no specific part number, they're just
used in this certain golf car in a pack of 4.

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Are there a "high-range" and "low-range" sensors, as described here (see page 4 for voltages)?

http://e46m3performance.com/tech/throttle/index.htm

Otmar wrote:
I can't seem to find a satisfactory answer to this question:

Is the Zilla HEPI input compatible with the twist-grip hall effect throttles? These throttles appear to take +5 V and output a voltage porportional to the throtttle position, simulating a potentiometer.

See: http://www.users.bigpond.com/solarbbq/throttle/throttle%20how%20they%20work.htm

Standard Zilla setup is Curtis style -- that is, to use the potentiometer as a rheostat (2 wires).

Only inkling I get from the manual is that the HEPI inputs are (were?) called "Aux Pot +" and "Aux Pot -", which tends to imply a rheostat-like function, though the manual mentions that 4 wires are connected to the hairball, not the two implied by the pinout chart in the manual.

No, the Zilla Hepi will not work with that.
For reliable security reasons (being able to detect opens and shorts in the connections safely) the Zilla HEPI uses two hall inputs that are offset from each other. It actually uses six wires, two of which are ground that connect on two different terminals.

Sorry for not relying earlier, I've been missing much of the EV list lately.


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I looked around and found the Fiat to have no web presence, it is not in the EV Album.

I took a bunch of photos of it while I was doing some repairs and upgrades last spring, here are a few and some specs-
http://www.geocities.com/roysterothc/fiat_spider.html


Travis Raybold wrote:

I'm still on the list, though i don't always get to read (or even skim) it.

I park my fiat convertible in front of the world trade center here in portland, in a very visible spot, with it plugged in. Every other week or so I get a card or note on it from someone who wants more information, and I forward them to the oeva.org website. One of those cards was from the producer of globe trekker, asking if they could film me with my car. not one to pass up a chance to talk about EVs, I agreed. They set it up so that the traveller, whose name I forget, would happen by as I was plugging in, and we chatted for a few minutes. They culled that down, but still, I think it was pretty good exposure. I've had people stop me in the streets who recognized me from the show, and a few friends I haven't seen in years email me.

Someday I'll get organized and have a handout with information about the car and put it on the side of the car like those real estate flyers at houses. The parking/charging spots here are great, not just because I get free parking and charging while at work, but they are very prominent, so lot's of people notice. I'm sure Rick, who parks in the other spot here (with that Ford Escort you saw) gets lots of exposure for us too.

--Travis
.




Roy LeMeur
Olympia WA

My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html

Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html

EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm

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roland  that paste is not used for conductivity  but to prevent electroliss 
(the migrating of metal on the molacule level ) my spelling is real bad   sorry 

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> I have use a electrically conductive paste one time on my battery lead post 
> to 
> plated brass battery connectors. I used the good stuff that is normally used 
> on 
> high voltage connections for aluminum to aluminum, aluminum to copper, 
> aluminum 
> to brass, nickel plated to nickel plated and zinc to all other types of 
> metals. 
> Is also use on fuse and buss bar connections. 
> 
> These connections are normally install using high pressure hydraulic 
> crimpers. 
> 
> After applying the battery connections with this paste, I started up the EV 
> and 
> it would hardly move, like the batteries were discharged or A battery 
> connection 
> was may be loose. So I re-torque all the connections and check the cell 
> voltage. Try it to run the EV and again the EV did not get up to speed. 
> 
> Removing all the conductive paste off the connections, the EV was back to 
> normal 
> operating. 
> 
> Roland 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Roderick Wilde 
> To: [email protected] 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 2:54 AM 
> Subject: Re: Unorthodox cell connections 
> 
> 
> During the old days of endurance racing at PIR (Phoenix International 
> Raceway) and later at Firebird Raceway, also in Phoenix Arizona, battery 
> packs were routinely swapped out. Some teams used spring connectors. I 
> believe "Snow White" was one that did along with some of the Formula 
> Lightning crowd. These had to handle several hundreds of amps. Check with 
> Otmar at www.cafeelectric.com. He was on the 
> "Snow White" team. 
> 
> Roderick Wilde 
> "Suck Amps EV Racing" 
> www.suckamps.com 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ken Trough" > 
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" 
> > 
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 4:51 PM 
> Subject: Unorthodox cell connections 
> 
> 
> >I have kind of an odd question. I am wondering how one might connect a 
> >standard sized cell (F cell for instance) to a circuit without a soldered 
> >connection point. In other words, are there any methods that have been used 
> >successfully for getting 50-100A out of a cell without scortching the ends? 
> >If you think about flashlights, those usually involve a stack of cells in 
> >series that are held in place with a spring. I don't believe such a 
> >configuration will work for higher amp draws. 
> > 
> > How about connecting a single cell? Is there a reliable, non-soldering 
> > based method to connect a single cell? How about if the cell had some 
> > conductive goo on the ends and sat in some kind of sandwich where the 
> > conduction points are fixed and screwed tightly to avoid the cell moving 
> > relative to the contact points? Clear as mud? Something like this: 
> > 
> > __________________ 
> > | |-----| | 
> > | ------| |------ | 
> > | | | | 
> > | | | | 
> > | | | | 
> > | | 1.2V F cell | | 
> > | | NiMH | | 
> > | | | | 
> > | | | | 
> > | | | | 
> > | |__________| | 
> > |_________________| 
> > 
> > The general idea is to develop a small pack of standardized cells where 
> > the individual cells could be replaced if one reverses, fails, or if the 
> > the owner wants to upgrade to a higher capacity individual cell. I'd build 
> > a block of cells with all cells in the block wired parallel to build block 
> > capacity. Then the blocks of cells would be wired together in series with 
> > standard bolt connectors to build voltage for the pack. 
> > 
> > So any suggestions? I just want to be able to avoid zortching at the 
> > contact points and I don't know if electrically conductive paste would be 
> > the best way to insure a good contact with low resistance. 
> > 
> > -Ken Trough 
> > Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine 
> > http://visforvoltage.com 
> > AIM/YM - ktrough 
> > FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658) 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. 
> > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. 
> > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/146 - Release Date: 10/21/2005 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. 
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. 
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/146 - Release Date: 10/21/2005 
> 

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Hi,

Rick Barnes wrote:
Same thing happened to me. I think it blows from the surge when the defroster blower is first turned on. I now use a 40 amp fuse.

Yes, I too had troubles with the output fuse on my DCP DC/DC converter randomly blowing a couple of times. Interestingly enough, I recall the DC/DC converter being lightly loaded at least one of the times that the output fuse blew.

Of course, this turned out to be the least of my problems with my DCP unit, as it later blew itself up (rather dramatically) and thus far has been unrepairable...

Bob Bath wrote:
> Sure enough, I'd lost the DCP DCDC fuse. Popped in another, and
> there's my 6.0A going back to a very thirsty aux. batt. So the way I
> see it, DCP is a 300W unit.  That's 25A or so on the 12V line.
> Headlights, wipers, radio, defroster blower.  How did it blow a 30A
> fuse?

Even if that was more than 25 amps, shouldn't the DC/DC be enforcing a very strict current limit on it's output to prevent blowing itself up? If so, then it would seem that there is no reason the output fuse should blow even if you are trying to pull more than 30A from it. Unless perhaps you throw on a heavy load and the DC/DC can't/doesn't throttle back the PWM duty cycle fast enough, allowing the output current to surge briefly until it can get things under control again?

--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------

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Justin,

Try contacting Dave Mason at US Battery.  He gave me a great deal on batteries 
for my car last year. 

[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
David L. Mason
U.S. Battery Mfg. Co.
(909)371-8090
(909)371-4671 FAX


Patrick

>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11/2/05 1:35:53 AM >>>
Hi All, I've been asked to ask if anyone here has good contacts for buying
Trojan batteries in or around Compton Ca. The requester has contacts in
Compton who periodically send shipping containers to New Zealand. He is
hoping to import them directly from the US as anything but the locally
manufactured SLI batteries are very expensive here. IE Optima or Orbital
$400ea, generic GC $200+ea. Contacts for USBattery would be good too. I
recall seeing info before but never saved it as i didnt expect to have a
use for it. Thanks in advance.

Justin
Wellington
New Zealand



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.6/151 - Release Date: 28-10-05


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I was recently in Sam's Club and saw an orbital
battery on the shelf:

http://search.samsclub.com/eclub/search/search.do?simpleitemtype=0&action=search&searchtype=simple&simplesearchfor=nascar+battery&x=0&y=0

I understand Exide makes their batteries, so it's
likely a relabled version of one of these:

http://www.exideworld.com/products/trans/na/automotive.html

Anyone know anything about them? Would either be a
likely candidate for an EV?

Ken


        
                
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com

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--- Begin Message --- i submitted the data to the ev photo album twice, but it didnt make it in somehow. one of these day's ill post it to my own website, i keep waiting, because i think i'll just wait til i make one more change... ;)

--travis


Roy LeMeur wrote:


I looked around and found the Fiat to have no web presence, it is not in the EV Album.

I took a bunch of photos of it while I was doing some repairs and upgrades last spring, here are a few and some specs-
http://www.geocities.com/roysterothc/fiat_spider.html


Travis Raybold wrote:


I'm still on the list, though i don't always get to read (or even skim) it.

I park my fiat convertible in front of the world trade center here in portland, in a very visible spot, with it plugged in. Every other week or so I get a card or note on it from someone who wants more information, and I forward them to the oeva.org website. One of those cards was from the producer of globe trekker, asking if they could film me with my car. not one to pass up a chance to talk about EVs, I agreed. They set it up so that the traveller, whose name I forget, would happen by as I was plugging in, and we chatted for a few minutes. They culled that down, but still, I think it was pretty good exposure. I've had people stop me in the streets who recognized me from the show, and a few friends I haven't seen in years email me.

Someday I'll get organized and have a handout with information about the car and put it on the side of the car like those real estate flyers at houses. The parking/charging spots here are great, not just because I get free parking and charging while at work, but they are very prominent, so lot's of people notice. I'm sure Rick, who parks in the other spot here (with that Ford Escort you saw) gets lots of exposure for us too.

--Travis

.




Roy LeMeur
Olympia WA

My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html

Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html

EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm


.


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