EV Digest 5038
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: I want to build a PWM DC motor controller
by "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by "Chris Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Range in Rudman, was Re: Units of EV merit
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: I want to build a PWM DC motor controller
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Pic vs mc68HC05
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: I want to build a PWM DC motor controller
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Thundersky on its side
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) 9.00 sec Datsun 1200
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
11) Re: Thundersky on its side
by "steve ollerton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: 9.00 sec Datsun 1200
by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Thundersky on its side
by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Thundersky on its side
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Thundersky on its side
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Hybrid motor mounting, poof goes the car
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Hybrid motor mounting, poof goes the car
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Pic vs mc68HC05
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Electron flows and heating
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Electron flows and heating (was: Re: advanced dc motor (temp
sensor))
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Hybrid motor mounting, poof goes the car
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Need to ask a general question about torque converters
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by Aaron NMLUG-EV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Pic vs mc68HC05
by Stefan Peters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
by Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: hydrogen
by "gail donaldson lucas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Madman is NOT Happy!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Madman is NOT Happy!
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) RE: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) 1997 CHEVROLET MDL S-10 (Government Auction)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
33) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
34) Re: Electron flows and heating
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
35) Re: I want to build a PWM DC motor controller
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
36) Re: I want to build a PWM DC motor controller
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
37) Re: I want to build a PWM DC motor controller
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
How big does the pic need to be?
http://img506.imageshack.us/img506/3654/zw8ow.jpg
Load up one of your movies and pause it and press the print screen key
on your keyboard then load up one of your image programs and select
edit, then paste. Then cut the pic you want away from the rest of the
image.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Happy to read and learn this specific info about 1221B/C as i only know
curtis 1221R which are (were) used in French Volta vans.
These 1221R don't want more than their rated 96V by conception but you can
modify the input sensing voltage circuit to change that.
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
>
> On Dec 29, 2005, at 9:41 AM, Dave wrote:
>
> > hmm thanks Philippe. that's more than I am currently capable of right
> > now ...
> > I'm at the stage of bolting in compornents and attaching wires, with
> > help from SEVA memebers and other kind people like yourself on this
> > list.... ;^)
> >
> > I'll enjoy what I have and continue to learn a while longer then.
> > Dave
> >
> > Philippe Borges wrote:
> >
> >> your controller can take up to 120V, you have to modifiy the voltage
> >> divider
> >> circuit at input which lock nominal input voltage.
>
> I'm sitting here looking at the Curtis PCM data sheet for 1209B and
> 1221B controllers. The electrical specifications clearly indicate that
> your controller (1221B-7401) can operate from 72 to 120 volts with no
> mention of alterations required. The 1221B-7401 controller has an under
> voltage cutback of 45 volts and drops 0.5 volts at 100A. I run a Curtis
> 1221B-7403 (same as a -7401 except for no high pot disable) at 120
> volts in my EV Buggy.
>
> Looking in my Curtis PCM Manual for the 1209B, 1221B, 1221C, and 1231C
> I find no mention in the 40+ pages of any changes needed to any of
> their controllers to operate at any voltage within their ratings. This
> book doesn't specifically cover the 1221B-7401 controller because by
> that time it had already been replaced with the 1221C-7401 Curtis
> squealing controller.
>
> I'd say go ahead and add batteries, provided you do not exceed 120
> volts (though the 1221B-7401 controllers have been successfully
> operated at as high as 132 volts.)
>
> Paul "neon" G.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone know of a optoisolator suitable for this:
input voltage <= 5v
output supply >= 5v
output voltage >= 5v
output current max >= 10 mA
output rise time <= 1 microsecond
operating temp <= -20C to >= +80C
This is for ground loop isolation for the gate of an International
Rectifier ISP0551T MOSFET switch.
--
Stefan T. Peters
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The problem with this approach is that unless your video camera is
recording in progressive scan, you'll have really jagged vertical/diagonal
lines caused by interlacing between fields. The faster the object and/or
view is moving, the more pronounced the jagged edges will be. Most
camcorders still record interlaced video by default, and this makes it
hard to get a decent capture unless the video image is relatively still.
That said, the image you linked to isn't bad at all, beyond being a bit
low-resolution. Certainly as good or better than a lot of the pics I saw
on the DragTimes website.
--chris
On Thu, December 29, 2005 3:20 pm, Ryan Stotts said:
> How big does the pic need to be?
>
> http://img506.imageshack.us/img506/3654/zw8ow.jpg
>
> Load up one of your movies and pause it and press the print screen key
> on your keyboard then load up one of your image programs and select
> edit, then paste. Then cut the pic you want away from the rest of the
> image.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Whatever the units, equation or measure, if the range is defined (eg. the
"rudman" as mentioned earlier) as being the range at 55mph (among other
things), you immediately refuse to acknowledge most every EV built before
1920. Top speed for most of those was about 30mph as they commonly used
worm gear drives and 84v or less.
-Myles Twete
Earlier note:
1 Rudman is defined as one mile of range on a hot summer day in Seattle.
That's 68 Deg F
Sealevel 760 Torr.
No elevation gained or lost
55 miles per hour.. no stops no starts..Ok one each...
less than .25 G to get there....and back
NO rubber smoke.. DARN!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Could we just uncouple the gate drive? Lets say we have the mirco drive
a signal transformer and then a simple diode and cap circuit to rectify
the gate voltage and drive the bridge of the FET drive or a voltage to
freq converter chip or somehow use the frequency.
If the micro fails with the pin on or off, gate drive goes to zero and
FET shuts off or the PWM freq goes to 0%.
This also isolates the gate drive and allows for high side drive if desired.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Basic stamp just takes the approach of optimizing simplification.
Hince the purchase of a basic stamp robot kit to intorduce my nephew to
electronics. I looked at using them once for a larger project and found
they had limited it too much for my use. But they are great for what
they were designed for.
I was afraid that the statement I made was too general. You did put your
finger on it, There are hundreds of PIC's micro controllers in about 5
familiys, an just as many of them if not more of the mc68HC05 types. It
is like the perpetual RISC vs CISC argument.
But it is almost all good. you can find a micro with just the right
amount of I/O and speed while not going gonzo on price or energy
consumption.
Almost all good, because each family requires it's own compiler or
programming tools and some are expensive. In general I have found more
low cost and free compilers and simulators for PIC than for mc68HC05
family. The compilers I have found for mc family may really be more
capable but have a "4k limit" or something and that and ridiculusly high
"unlimited" price tags.
One of my favorites is the chipcon cc1010, plenty of I/O and wireless in
a miniture TPQN64 package.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Optocouplers pull down only, rise time depends on your pullup impedance
and capacitive load, and the pullup needs a voltage supply tied to the
transistor's voltages. Unless we're talking about a PV optoisolator (a
somewhat unusual component and generally quite slow). Either way you'd
probably need a driver between it and the gate to keep switching time low.
What's this for? I found the spec sheet and see this device has a
built-in gate driver. IMHO, I'd leave the gate driver off of it and
instead get the best transistor possible and build an external gate drive.
Just as an example of a fast Darlington optocoupler:
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/HC/HCPL-2730.pdf
Might want to take this to the "EVTech" area, or perhaps take it to a
dedicated electronics forum. There are some good guys on Electrotech:
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/index.php
Danny
Stefan T. Peters wrote:
Anyone know of a optoisolator suitable for this:
input voltage <= 5v
output supply >= 5v
output voltage >= 5v
output current max >= 10 mA
output rise time <= 1 microsecond
operating temp <= -20C to >= +80C
This is for ground loop isolation for the gate of an International
Rectifier ISP0551T MOSFET switch.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A question for those who have Thundersky batteries: Is it OK to have these
batteries on their side?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The specs at http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-1200-Timeslip-6542.html don't tell
us if it's streetable like the Zombie, but with 40psi of boost and a racing
cam, I wonder how "lumpy" the idle is at a stop light...and if *his* motor
would 'splode if he added nitrous.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes its fine. They don't mind which way up they are - they just like to be
warm!
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Ryan Stotts wrote:
How big does the pic need to be?
http://img506.imageshack.us/img506/3654/zw8ow.jpg
Load up one of your movies and pause it and press the print screen key
on your keyboard then load up one of your image programs and select
edit, then paste. Then cut the pic you want away from the rest of the
image.
That's an image from video Marko Mongillo took using my
less-than-state-of-the-art, standard Hi 8 video cam, that I clipped away
and made a still of. I was hoping to have better quality than this, but
it 'is' a fun shot!
Maybe I should quit being so picky and send this picture in....
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It could be very streetable. Some of these guys run huge boost. Could be 25
to 30 pounds maybe more. Neat thing about boost is it's only there when you
ask for it. Low rpm street driving there is no boost. You are right though,
they do 'splode!
Mark Grasser
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 6:28 PM
Subject: 9.00 sec Datsun 1200
The specs at http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-1200-Timeslip-6542.html don't
tell
us if it's streetable like the Zombie, but with 40psi of boost and a
racing
cam, I wonder how "lumpy" the idle is at a stop light...and if *his* motor
would 'splode if he added nitrous.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have done a lot of reading on Jels and AGMs. The only thing I have come
across is that you should orient ALL of them the same direction. They settle
internally. Settling changes internal resistance and thus charging
characteristics of the battery. If some are one way and some are another,
they won't charge evenly. Just FFT.
Mark Grasser
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve ollerton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: Thundersky on its side
Yes its fine. They don't mind which way up they are - they just like to be
warm!
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Doug, I called Thundersky directly about this, and they said no problem at
all. In my conversion, the rear 14 batteries sit on their thin edge. Up
front, I have them stacked 4 high on their broad side. I'll send you a
couple of images offline.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 4:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Thundersky on its side
A question for those who have Thundersky batteries: Is it OK to have these
batteries on their side?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Speaking of keep them warm, with the cells on their sides, would it work for
me to just stick some heat tape along their exposed bottoms? Thanks.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of steve ollerton
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 4:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Thundersky on its side
Yes its fine. They don't mind which way up they are - they just like to be
warm!
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 03:15 PM 12/29/05 -0500, you wrote:
> That happened on my s**y -Car too many moons ago, a lug popped off arcing
> and setting the seat & wire harness on fire,
As I am planning my conversion (very abstractly),
I was thinking about routing these cables and the
danger in a crash.
Someone mentioned using outdoor electrical conduit
(thick plastic/rubber?), and I was wondering, why plastic?
In an accident, I think metal conduit would survive better.
We run both our high voltage, high current 2/0 cables, as well as battery
charger and accessory wires, outside the car where the exhaust system
went. We use 1 1/2" ID pvc spa hose. It's flexible, exceedingly strong,
and electrically neutral. You can get it at sprinkler supply stores. I've
had a couple of occasions when a battery charger wire shorted at one end of
the car. All that it did was melt the insulation of the wire involved, and
let out a lot of smoke. I used some of the spare wires I always run fore
to aft and rehooked the circuit. I checked the other wires in the spa hose
for continuity in each wire, and for any continuity between wires. There
was none. The car is running.
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike, how to you make the transition from inside the car to outside the car?
If you have to go through the sheet metal, is there an adapter for the spa
hose?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Electro Automotive
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 6:24 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Hybrid motor mounting, poof goes the car
At 03:15 PM 12/29/05 -0500, you wrote:
> > That happened on my s**y -Car too many moons ago, a lug popped off
arcing
> > and setting the seat & wire harness on fire,
>
>As I am planning my conversion (very abstractly),
>I was thinking about routing these cables and the
>danger in a crash.
>
>Someone mentioned using outdoor electrical conduit
>(thick plastic/rubber?), and I was wondering, why plastic?
>In an accident, I think metal conduit would survive better.
We run both our high voltage, high current 2/0 cables, as well as battery
charger and accessory wires, outside the car where the exhaust system
went. We use 1 1/2" ID pvc spa hose. It's flexible, exceedingly strong,
and electrically neutral. You can get it at sprinkler supply stores. I've
had a couple of occasions when a battery charger wire shorted at one end of
the car. All that it did was melt the insulation of the wire involved, and
let out a lot of smoke. I used some of the spare wires I always run fore
to aft and rehooked the circuit. I checked the other wires in the spa hose
for continuity in each wire, and for any continuity between wires. There
was none. The car is running.
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oops, Stephen is right, I meant it was a custom board containing an off
the shelf pic and an eprom.(looks like a DIP package with the hood off lol )
One thing the PIC did that I like, is reserved 1 bit in each instruction
word that causes the output of the ALU to either be fed back to the ALU
or sent off to a register. this gives it the advantages of an
accumulater based archatecture without the penalty.
If you really want an interesting archetecture look into sparc assemble.
a very pure RISC processor with "delay slots" (the instruction following
a branch is already in the 2 deep pipeline so it ALWAYS executes) but I
digress.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thermoplastics.
I have played with a few thermo plastics and even if it is our poly
propelene which some of us molders call polycandlewax, it is gonna be at
lease 320 degrees f to melt it. Just a word of warning on how hot
those post may of gotten.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Heat is a measure of the vibration of molecules here is a definition
heat Pronunciation <javascript:play('H0111900')> (ht)/n./ /Physics/ *1. *
*a. * A form of energy associated with the motion of atoms or molecules
and capable of being transmitted through solid and fluid media by
conduction, through fluid media by convection, and through empty space
by radiation.
cold is just a slang term for the absence of heat. What I don't find in
this definition is any reference to sub-atomic particles.
Pushing a lot of electrons thru a resistance does agitate the molecules
and create heat; but the same number of electrons are also leeveing the
other electrode.
???
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I happened to use 2" spa hose as my conduit. It is thick walled and
smooth on both the inside and the out. The battery cables wouldn't pull
thru until I used the wire lube, what great stuff.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If I was to place a torque converter in place of the clutch and use a
standard transmission, how would that work/notwork?
Could I set the controller for an idle rpm to run accessories and then
just step on gas to accelerate from a stop. In this way leaveing it in
say 3rd gear since the torque converter would give me some
multiplication off line and then perhaps lock in the TCC if above x mph
and < y throttle?
Could I shift or would I get a bad whirrrr-bang?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Thu, 2005-12-29 at 11:02, Michael Hurley wrote:
> On Dec 29, 2005, at 11:20 AM, John Wayland wrote:
>
> > I just resubmitted the page with a temporary 'better' picture and
> > added a few spelling corrections. It takes 24 hours for an 'approval'
> > when you first submit a vehicle's page....evidently, when you do any
> > sort of correction, that 24 hour timer restarts, so unexpectedly, the
> > page has now disappeared until it is re-approved...bummer. Too bad, as
> > the votes were ramping up pretty quickly. I guess we'll have to wait
> > until tomorrow to see the page again :-(
actually, there are about 10 datsuns.
Several in the 1200 area.
Truck. Fastback...
http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-1200-Timeslip-6542.html
Unfortunately, our hero is about the slowest Datsun on the site.
Although half of them seem to be 240Z, 260Z, etc...
aaron
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
Oops, Stephen is right, I meant it was a custom board containing an off
the shelf pic and an eprom.(looks like a DIP package with the hood off lol )
If you really want an interesting archetecture look into sparc assemble.
a very pure RISC processor with "delay slots" (the instruction following
a branch is already in the 2 deep pipeline so it ALWAYS executes) but I
digress.
Thanks, I think most of my ancestors just rolled over in their crypts.
It's "Stefan" - I was named in memory of "Stefan cel Mare si Sfant" from
Moldavia (where my family is from, they claim lineage). In your defense,
I noticed wikipedia has the wrong spelling as well...
Yeah, the SPARC is a real piece of work. I've just never been able to
determine if I mean that as a compliment or an insult. ;)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well this little 1221B-7401 Curtis is sounding better all the time!
Maybe it'll be quite a while before I upgrade to a Zilla!
If ever. that might be the next EV, as this Honda is mighty small
inside as well as outside!
ciao,
dave
Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) wrote:
I was looking up the specs of the 35 mosfets that are in the Curtis
controllers. The IRF640 MOSFETS are rated at 18 amps at up to 200 volts
each. Put all those in parallel and it looks like it would do 200 volts at
623 amps max. I know you want breathing room for safety reasons but why 80
volts and 223 amps? (Curtis rates the box for 400 amps and 120V)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Wayland [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 3:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
Hello to Dave and All,
Dave wrote:
....a Curtis 1221B-7401 controller, that I can not find the specs for.
I would like to add another battery uping the voltage to 96v but am
not sure if the controller can take it.....my bottom line question is,
can this controller handle 96 volts or should I stay at 84?
Ah yes, the 'good' Curtis that didn't make the offending squeal! I used
this exact model in Blue Meanie at 132V for several years with no
problems at all...very reliable, and dead silent operation.
After the 132V, 400 amp Curtis combo, came the 144V, 500 amp Auburn
combo, then the 156V, 600 amp Auburn combo, then the 156V, 1200 amp DCP
Raptor combo, and finally the current 156v, 1000 amp Zilla combo
destined to be a higher volt setup.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
I've submitted the 1/4 mile specs for White Zombie to the following site:
http://www.dragtimes.com/
Hey John, that looks like fun.
You got my vote!
Since the car is no longer on the front page, here is a direct link:
http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-1200-Timeslip-7484.html
Maybe you could get a video posted as well?
Have fun!
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://world.honda.com/news/2005/4050203.html
> [Original Message]
> From: Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 12/29/2005 12:29:47 PM
> Subject: Re: hydrogen
>
> >
http://www.euronext.com/news/companypressrelease/0,5772,1700631_11894_718583
260,00.html
> >
>
> And in the US?
> I get emails that I should tell my senators to support Alaskan oil
refineries.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
I've just got the download this evening from the Madman from his hotel
room in Long Beach, CA. He flew back down to the Monster Garage set,
this time on his own dime, yesterday, Wednesday, and had arrived at
around 5:00 pm. The plan, was that he and John from Milwaukee Power
Tools were to remove, charge up, then reinstall the batteries and get
the Chevy 'properly' electrified for Friday's big run off against a 426
Hemi car at Bakersfield Drag Strip in Bakersfield, CA. That didn't quite
work out, and he's more than a bit pissed off!
The car was 'supposed' to be all freshly repainted and ready when he got
into town on Wednesday. Instead, the car was still in the paint booth
the remainder of Wednesday night, and was still having clear coat being
applied today, Thursday. Madman not happy! The two EV guys were sent
away while the paint was being finished, so off to Tequila Joe's for
some 'refreshments' they went, to stew over valuable time lost. Madman
got a call from one of the show's personnel at around 5:00 pm today, and
having heard the two were consuming at the local bar and assuming they
were too drunk to show up, pretty much made up a story about the car
having been done, as he asked why they were wasting time when they could
have been working on the car most of the day...yeah, right! It took
Madman all of about 10 minutes to leave the place and arrive to the
paint booth, where he found the car was still drying and not
ready....the guy who placed the funky phone call sped off in a
car....Madman not happy!
According to Rich, against the wishes of the painter, the EV guys pulled
the batteries and some electrical stuff from the still tacky car, and
managed to at least get the pack charged up and ready late tonight.
The schedule has the car leaving for the dragstrip at 7:45
am...tomorrow! Madman and John plan on being at the shop at 4:30 am and
they will have just 3 hours to reinstall everything! Madman not happy!
To add to the excitement and pressure of it all, the same pounding rain
and wind storms Oregon and Washington have been getting (an even more
intense storm is slamming in tomorrow) might also reach as far south as
where the race is supposed to take place.
Stay tuned.....
See Ya.....John 'Monster Garage rejectee' Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the update, John
PS: I just voted for your car a while ago thanks to Otmar putting up the
link on the list.
Roderick
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 9:20 PM
Subject: Madman is NOT Happy!
Hello to All,
I've just got the download this evening from the Madman from his hotel
room in Long Beach, CA. He flew back down to the Monster Garage set, this
time on his own dime, yesterday, Wednesday, and had arrived at around 5:00
pm. The plan, was that he and John from Milwaukee Power Tools were to
remove, charge up, then reinstall the batteries and get the Chevy
'properly' electrified for Friday's big run off against a 426 Hemi car at
Bakersfield Drag Strip in Bakersfield, CA. That didn't quite work out, and
he's more than a bit pissed off!
The car was 'supposed' to be all freshly repainted and ready when he got
into town on Wednesday. Instead, the car was still in the paint booth the
remainder of Wednesday night, and was still having clear coat being
applied today, Thursday. Madman not happy! The two EV guys were sent away
while the paint was being finished, so off to Tequila Joe's for some
'refreshments' they went, to stew over valuable time lost. Madman got a
call from one of the show's personnel at around 5:00 pm today, and having
heard the two were consuming at the local bar and assuming they were too
drunk to show up, pretty much made up a story about the car having been
done, as he asked why they were wasting time when they could have been
working on the car most of the day...yeah, right! It took Madman all of
about 10 minutes to leave the place and arrive to the paint booth, where
he found the car was still drying and not ready....the guy who placed the
funky phone call sped off in a car....Madman not happy!
According to Rich, against the wishes of the painter, the EV guys pulled
the batteries and some electrical stuff from the still tacky car, and
managed to at least get the pack charged up and ready late tonight.
The schedule has the car leaving for the dragstrip at 7:45 am...tomorrow!
Madman and John plan on being at the shop at 4:30 am and they will have
just 3 hours to reinstall everything! Madman not happy!
To add to the excitement and pressure of it all, the same pounding rain
and wind storms Oregon and Washington have been getting (an even more
intense storm is slamming in tomorrow) might also reach as far south as
where the race is supposed to take place.
Stay tuned.....
See Ya.....John 'Monster Garage rejectee' Wayland
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.9/216 - Release Date: 12/29/2005
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.9/216 - Release Date: 12/29/2005
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OK, I voted for White Zombie and if you want to
vote for Matt's Nissan 240SX with only one run on his
new conversion, here is a direct link as well:
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-240SX-Timeslip-7382.html
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Otmar
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 8:57 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
>Hello to All,
>
>I've submitted the 1/4 mile specs for White Zombie to the following site:
>
>http://www.dragtimes.com/
Hey John, that looks like fun.
You got my vote!
Since the car is no longer on the front page, here is a direct link:
http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-1200-Timeslip-7484.html
Maybe you could get a video posted as well?
Have fun!
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here's an EV looking for a home!
1997 CHEVROLET MDL S-10
Located in GA
http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=756819
Looks to need work.
Pedroman
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
OK, for all who tried but could not see the page, after having sent a
few corrections in, the White Zombie page is back up now at the
Dragtimes site.
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Dec 28, 2005, at 11:50 PM, James Massey wrote:
It is probably related to those little "propellors" in vacuum flasks
that are black on one face and white on the other, and then spin in
sunlight. Any ideas?
That's a Crookes radiometer. They work on different principles - see
more information at Wikipedia:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_mill>
Nothing to do with electrons. It has to do with the movement of air
molecules inside the bulb. Which was a big surprise to me as up until
a few moments ago I still thought they moved because of light pressure.
I do love this Internet thingy :)
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Stefan T. Peters wrote:
> Anyone know of a optoisolator suitable for this: [snip...]
> This is for ground loop isolation for the gate of an International
> Rectifier ISP0551T MOSFET switch.
You didn't provide enough details to allow finding a "perfect" fit. But
judging from the MOSFET part# you provided, what you need is a logic
optocoupler that has an internal IC that provides a TTL-compatible
output for the gate driver inside the ISP0551T. When I did something
similar to this, I used an Agilent HCPL-2211.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> Could we just uncouple the gate drive? Let's say we have the mirco
> drive a signal transformer and then a simple diode and cap circuit
> to rectify the gate voltage and drive the bridge of the FET drive
> or a voltage to freq converter chip or somehow use the frequency.
First, a micro is not designed to drive an inductive load like a gate
drive transformer. You would need a driver IC to convert the micro's
logic-level output into enough drive for a gate drive transformer. The
gate drive transformer can have enough drive for relatively large
MOSFETs.
These transformers provide excellent isolation and high drive power.
However, gate drive transformers have problems when the duty cycle gets
outside the range of 10-90%, so they aren't really practical for PWM
motor controllers (which you want to go from 0-100%).
> If the micro fails with the pin on or off, gate drive goes to zero
> and FET shuts off, or the PWM freq goes to 0%. This also isolates
> the gate drive and allows for high side drive if desired.
You can just let the gate float when you want it off. At the very least,
you need a resistor or other circuit to pull it to the 0 volt "off"
state.
And, the gate has substantial capacitance. You want the MOSFET to turn
off *fast* if you expect it to survive! You can't get a fast turnoff
with just a gate resistor.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny Miller wrote:
> I'm not sure where you're getting your information, but much of this
> is inaccurate at least for modern parts... have you actually used a
> microcontroller itself?
Oh, but I have; this list *is* relevant for the micros being used right
now! If you have a Honeywell or Robertshaw electronic control in your
home furnace, built in the 1980s or 90s, the odds are good that I did
design work on it. About half of these controls use discrete logic; the
other half are micro-based. I have considerable experience in both
camps.
Your responses suggest an overconfidence that comes from a lack of
experience ("duh, so don't set it up this way"... "duh, this would be
foolish coding practice"... "wow, we're just grasping at straws"...
Every single one of the watchdog failures I described *has* happened to
real products, designed by people who thought they knew what they were
doing. They thought something couldn't happen, so they didn't design for
it, or test for it. The consequences included fires, explosions,
injuries, and even deaths! Ignorance and hubris.
Fail-safe design is a hugely complex topic; far larger than can be
covered in a few emails. Whole books can be written on this topic. My
little list was just a tiny fragment of the things that can go wrong,
and only related to the mistakes one could make in just the watchdog
circuit of a microcontroller. There are many, many more possible errors!
The heart of a fail-safe design is to do a FMEA (Failure Mode Effect
Analysis). This is a systematic way to explore what might go wrong, what
will happen if it does, and what you can do to prevent bad outcomes.
1. List every single part in your circuit.
(R1, C1, PCB, etc.)
2. List all the possible failure modes for each part.
(fails shorted, open, wrong value, etc.)
3. Simulate one of these failures in the circuit, and see what happens:
If it makes the product fail safe (for example, it blows a fuse and
thus safely shuts it off), then mark this as a "safe" failure, and
continue with the next part/failure mode.
4. If the failure has no effect (product seems to still work normally);
then leave it in place and add the next part/failure mode and repeat.
(For example, shorting temperature sensor TH1 has no effect. So
leave it shorted and add another failure to see if an undetected
failure can lead to subsequent failures).
5. If the results are uncertain (can't predict the consequences based
on theory); then actually create that failure, and test the circuit.
Only mark it as a "safe" failure if confirmed by actual testing.
(For example, theory says that if C1 shorts, it might start a fire;
but in actual testing, a shorted C1 burns itself open without
starting a fire or causing other dangerous results.)
6. If the failure causes a safety-critical result; then redesign to
eliminate this failure mode (i.e. if R1 shorts, it causes a fire;
so use a special UL-listed resistor that is guaranteed not to fail
shorted).
7. Repeat for every possible failure of every part. If any produce
unsafe conditions, change the design and retest until
all such failure modes are eliminated.
FMEA testing often fills thick volumes with data, and can require months
or years of design and verification. There can be thousands, or even
millions of possible failure modes to examine!
Micros are difficult to use in safe designs because they introduce
MILLIONS of possible failure modes, many of which are incredibly
difficult to test. How do you find out the consequences of transistor
Q56234 failing in the chip? Especially when the chip's manufacturer
won't help (trust us...)!
So with micros, you see redundant designs (multiple micros, each
checking on the others), or partitioned designs (micro not allowed to
control anything dangerous), or custom chip designs (where dangerous
failure modes are specifically eliminated).
The alternative of discrete circuitry is often easier. There are fewer
parts to consider, and fewer failure modes per part for discrete
resistors, capacitors, diodes, transistors, etc. And, you can get
special versions of these parts that guarantee that certain failure
modes won't happen (resistors guaranteed to fail open, transistors that
can't latch up or be static zapped, etc.).
Finally, there are circuits that can provide fail-safe operation. We can
(and probably should) discuss some of them; they are useful for anyone
concerned with safety. They add parts and cost, but also greatly enhance
safety. A fuse is a very simple example; it blows to shut down a circuit
*before* anything bad happens.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
