EV Digest 5049
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Reverseing a siamese motor
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by Stefan Peters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Azure AC motor/adapter for S10
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Re: Azure AC motor/adapter for S10
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) "Maniac Mazda" up on Drag Times
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) hollow or dummy, torque converter
by Ron Archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) De-sulfating the lowest, one at a time
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Inside out DC motor, just a wild idea
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Azure AC motor/adapter for S10
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: hollow or dummy, torque converter
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: "Maniac Mazda" up on Drag Times
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: De-sulfating the lowest, one at a time
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Tax Credit for Conversion
by "David (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: S10 reverse
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Range in Rudman, was Re: Units of EV merit
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Mt Favorite DragTimes.com Comment!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Mt Favorite DragTimes.com Comment!
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Range in Rudman, was Re: Units of EV merit
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: "Maniac Mazda" up on Drag Times
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: My Favorite DragTimes.com Comment!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Postal van gone.
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) VoltsPorsche AC kit on SF Craigslist
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Chris wrote:
>On the one hand IGBTs are expensive, and on the other,
>contactors are heavy, and waste power through their contacts.
That is why I suggested an anti-parallel reversing setup
that does not need additional controllers or cut the main
drive path with a contactor, so the resistance stays minimal
for its main function - drive!
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Chris Robison
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 1:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Reverseing a siamese motor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cor van de Water wrote:
Scuse me - some were suggesting tricks to vote more than once a day.
That I do consider dishonest.
Voting each and every day is endorsed by the site.
Inviting friends and family to each vote once a day is welcomed.
Voting at home as well as at work is not detectable and hardly
seen as a problem, this is up to your own conscience and rules
of Internet usage at work.
Switching your PC to your neighbor's wireless internet and
voting twice a day is possible but not encouraged. (It's illegal)
Using your multi-ip server farm and a script to automatically vote
multiple times a day is clearly way over the top.
I did say "But that might just be overdoing things a bit, eh?" (it was
mostly in jest, after all). This whole thing is the equivalent of a prom
queen vote, after all... guess I have a hard time taking the morality of
it that seriously. I admit I'm a bit jaded myself on some things, having
been involved in amateur racing for many years now. Any idea how many
professional racing teams cheat on a regular basis?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wonder how much a controller runs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4600547981
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Wonder how much a controller runs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4600547981
That is a 50kw Hughes Dolphin motor. Really nice actually. The water
cooling is just plain great.
Get that and a Dolphin computer and you will have a nice little setup.
CZ
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I agree with Ken. The site allows one vote per day which is fair. I
imagine it goes by your IP address so it won't allow more then one vote
per IP address per day. That's how some of these are set up.
I think the cars will do well on the own merits and John's car will
move into the top ten without having the need to stuff the box. And
Matt's car is already in the top 50.
I did put the links up on the home page of the NEDRA site so hopefully
people visiting the NEDRA site will link up and vote as well.
I'm pretty excited about the 2006 NEDRA racing season. People are
building more cars and we have new events. The Drag Times site will be
great publicity for the sport.
And everyone who races their EV should also put their cars up on the
site as well.
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Webmaster
http://www.nedra.com
Ken Trough wrote:
It bothers me, and it should bother everyone!!! Honesty is always the
best policy - and the way the votes are going, I don't think we need to
be dishonest about it.
Read the site. They encourage once a day voting. There is no dishonesty
going on except perhaps in Neon John's head.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The "Maniac Mazda" is now up on Drag Times at
http://www.dragtimes.com/Mazda-RX-7-Timeslip-7519.html if you would care to
vote. For daily voting there will be links at NEDRA www.nedra.com. I put up
a very poor quality gif but it gets the point across. Come on folks, get
your drag cars up there.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.10/218 - Release Date: 1/2/2006
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone used a non-functional (hollow or dummy) torque converter with
an automatic transmission? They're popular for building direct drive
powerglides for drag or circle track racing.
http://circletrack.com/techarticles/general/ctrp_0503_torq/
http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-34.html
http://www.burtbrownracingtrans.com/bbrt/asp/ProdBB.php
Ron
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So Roland, tell me once more where you got the
Schumacher Model WM-1000A?
I'm going to need to use it to carefully de-sulfate a
couple of 8volters. How did you limit current to (in
my case) 7A or so?
Thanks,
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Bath<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To:
> [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 1:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Still needing prof. battery advice.
> charging the lowest
>
>
>
> Okay so
> 1) What model Wal-Mart charger are you using to
> get
> the stragglers up? I have a Schauer charger that
> turns off the moment I hook it to an 8V battery.
> But
> it's only good for 6A.
> 2) Are you charging the stragglers _while_ the
> others
> are on a charge (ie, in parallel?) so that the
> straggler "sees" 12V while the rest see 183V?
> Thanks,
>
> Hello Bob,
>
> The charger I'm using is a Schumacher Model
> WM-1000A. It is a Smart charger than can charge at
> 6 or 12 volt at 40 amp, 15 amp and 2 amp. It has
> settings for a Regular battery, deep cell, AGM or
> GEL.
>
> It has a digital voltage indicator that also shows
> percentage of charge.
>
> You can used this unit as a tester to find the
> highest and lowest battery voltage. I find it is
> best to drive the EV until your are down to about 75
> percent so you has some room for charging the
> separate batteries.
>
> First find the battery with the highest voltage
> and put on a short charge on it which will indicated
> the charger voltage which will be higher than the
> standing battery voltage. Then used this charger
> voltage as a reference for all the other batteries
> you bring up to that reference voltage.
>
> If I have a battery that is only 0.04 voltage
> difference than the highest battery, it will take
> less than a minute to bring it up. So you will have
> to be alert to switch the charger off. There is no
> power switch on these chargers, you have to pull the
> wall plug anyway first, before installing the DC
> charger clips on to the battery. I am going to
> install a switch on the top portion of this charger
> which will be in the cable storage compartment.
>
> Before I had this charger, I had a standard 12
> volt charger of which I could charge the 6 volt
> batteries, which the amperes would be double and I
> had to be very quick to shut it down. I had to used
> a separate digital volt meter to monitor the
> voltage.
>
> If you get one of these chargers that have only 6
> and 12 volt rating, I would first test it out on
> your 8 volt batteries to see if it will work. If
> not, than take it back. I think Schumacher makes a 6
> - 8 - 12 volt battery charger that you may have to
> special order. I always test out anything to see
> if it will work.
>
> Roland
>
>
> --- Roland Wiench
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Thomas
>
Peterson<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
> > To:
> >
>
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 10:54 AM
> > Subject: Still needing prof. battery advice.
> > Additives
> >
> >
> > <
> >
> > Hello Tom,
> >
> > The Battery Additive - "Charge It" in one
> gallon
> > by JC Whitney is Item No. SV133723. Is on page
> 187
> > In there winter catalog No. 705F-12. Phone No:
> > 1-800-529-4486.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> > The reason may, that I been adding a battery
> > additive which you can get
> > by the gallons from JC Whitney. I add this
> > additive when the batteries
> > where new and about every 4 years. It
> dissolves
> > sulfation and prevent
> > sulfation formation.
> >
> > Another reason, which I was told by my battery
> > company if you want a long
> > battery life, is not to discharge the
> batteries
> > below 80%!!! and never
> > charge it above 95% every day, except about
> once a
> > month to 100% for equalization.
> >
> >
> > I normally charge the battery between 75 to
> 80%
> > because my driving range
> > is very short. It takes about 4 days of
> driving
> > to get down to 75%.
> >
> > HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL
> >
> > I bought a gallon of "Charge it" five years
> ago
> > and put two ounces in each of my
> > T-105's in my Citicar. I used the Lester plus
> > intermittent charges with two
> > K-Mart auto bat tree chargers and I used a
> multi
> > meter to read the voltage of
> > each bat tree.
> >
> > Do you have the item number for the gallon of
> > "Charge it" at JC Whitney?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
>
>
> '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD
> available)!
>
>
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html>
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe
> came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any
> gas for your kids?
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
>
>
http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/<http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/>
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think I have discussed this before with some of you
Since a DC series wound motor is equal amps in armature and field. What
if we made an inside out series DC motor.
A simple 4 coil armature with a brush plate on the end and a 100 or so
coils connected in series around the inside perimeter of the case having
stationary comm bars and the brushes ride against them.
The brushes can be counter balanced and the whole plate can be on
changable weights and springs for rpm based advance like an ole chevy.
This should be able to really crank out the RPMs.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The DMOC0445 controller is available from Electro Automotive for $3,895.00
USD
Interesting that a Hughes motor is driven by a Solectria (now Azure)
controller. I thought all the Hughes motors were driven by Hughes dolphin
controllers, which were later sold to Enova.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: January 2, 2006 4:09 PM
To: EV Discussion List
Subject: Azure AC motor/adapter for S10
Wonder how much a controller runs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4600547981
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My question would be why someone would want the extra rotational mass to
accelerate. I use a device called a torque converter eliminator. It has a
hub that bolts to your crank or your flywheel adaptor if you have an
electric. It has a smooth outer shaft to seal the tranny and two dogs to
engage the front pump and it is internally splined to turn the input shaft.
They are a little under $200.00. I may have a spare I would sell for
$100.00.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 4:04 PM
Subject: hollow or dummy, torque converter
Has anyone used a non-functional (hollow or dummy) torque converter with
an automatic transmission? They're popular for building direct drive
powerglides for drag or circle track racing.
http://circletrack.com/techarticles/general/ctrp_0503_torq/
http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-34.html
http://www.burtbrownracingtrans.com/bbrt/asp/ProdBB.php
Ron
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.10/218 - Release Date: 1/2/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.10/218 - Release Date: 1/2/2006
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've been searching for 2 days for that link!
I'm vote number 7 and will include this to my list of
EV's to
vote for in the coming weeks, one vote at home and one
at work (not to mention many co-workers I'll inform
tomorrow).
If we can get enough people voting imagine the
bewilderment if 3
EV's show up on the top 10 list! It may not make EV
converts of the masses, but it certainly will change
their perspective of an EV (golf cart, fork lifts,
NEV's). The novelty or uniqueness will certainly
pique the interest of those that visit the site.
I grew up with hot-rod cars through high school and
still plan to get a 69 Firebird Trans-Am like my
brother had in high school, and it won't be electric!
However that doesn't make me any less interested in
EV's. I think this gives a whole new angle of
advertising EV's to those that are put off by the
granola crunching save the environment crowd (not an
insult guys, just a statement regarding the majority
viewing this racing site!).
Keep up the good work EV dragsters, for those about to
arc, we salute you! (whether it be AC or DC :-)
Rod
--- Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The "Maniac Mazda" is now up on Drag Times at
>
http://www.dragtimes.com/Mazda-RX-7-Timeslip-7519.html
> if you would care to
> vote. For daily voting there will be links at NEDRA
> www.nedra.com. I put up
> a very poor quality gif but it gets the point
> across. Come on folks, get
> your drag cars up there.
>
> Roderick Wilde
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> www.suckamps.com
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.10/218 -
> Release Date: 1/2/2006
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah, Ken - I wasn't talking about once a day voting. That's OK. I was
talking about the guys who were going to try to use different IP's or
different computers to vote MORE than once a day!
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
> > It bothers me, and it should bother everyone!!! Honesty is always the
> > best policy - and the way the votes are going, I don't think we need to
> > be
> > dishonest about it.
>
> Read the site. They encourage once a day voting. There is no dishonesty
> going on except perhaps in Neon John's head.
>
> -Ken Trough
> Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
> http://visforvoltage.com
> AIM/YM - ktrough
> FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Bath<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: De-sulfating the lowest, one at a time
So Roland, tell me once more where you got the
Schumacher Model WM-1000A?
I'm going to need to use it to carefully de-sulfate a
couple of 8volters. How did you limit current to (in
my case) 7A or so?
Thanks,
Hello Bob,
I got it from Wal-Mart. All you have to do is select the ampere you want to
charge, and it will not go above that ampere. The ampere selection is 2, 15,
40 amp charge and 100 amp engine starting.
It has three 12 volt type of battery selection and one 6 volt selection. I
found that I can charge a 6 volt battery on any of the 12 volt selection. The
only thing is that the charger thinks the battery is discharge and it will show
a 100 percent charge 6 volt battery on the 6 volt selection and will show 9
percent charge on the 12 volt selector. You will have to what it closely so you
can shut the charger off when you get up to the reference charging voltage of
the highest charge battery you have.
It has a built in tester that diagnose the battery and will do a automatic
desulphation. My accessory 12 volt battery was not being charge correctly with
a standard charger. When I first charge it with the Smart charger, the voltage
would start out at 13.5 volts and climb to 15 volts and hold it there for a
while, then it may go to 15.5 volts for about a minute than it would drop down
to 14.5 volts. Its then in a testing mode, it will repeat this until it shows
100 percent charge. One time it went to 16.1 volt for several seconds and
than drop back to 14.5 volts. It ether doing a equalization or desulphation at
this time.
The normal charge for a 6 volt battery is 7.5 volts and 7.75 volts
equalization.
For a 12 volt battery is 15 volts and 15.5 volts equalization.
For a 8 volt battery it should be 10 volts and 10.33 volts equalization.
So if you charge the 8 volt battery on a 12 volt deep cycle selection, than
you will have to watch it very closely to the maximum voltage you want to go.
It will not do a auto shut down, because 10 volts on a 12 volt selection is not
at 100 percent, but a 8 volt battery would be about 100 percent charge.
You also get the next model down, which is 2, 10, 30 ampere charge and a 60
amp engine starting. This is the one I using on-board which is only a 12 volt
model only which is used as a maintainer for the large 12 volt deep cycle
battery which is providing power to several units, even while the EV is not in
used.
I used the 6 and 12 volt model for equalization my 6 volt batteries. As of
to date, it never went into a desulphation mode which would be a short 8 volt
pulses for several seconds. I will have to wait about another 6 years to see
that happen.
Roland
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Bath<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> To:
>
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 1:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Still needing prof. battery advice.
> charging the lowest
>
>
>
> Okay so
> 1) What model Wal-Mart charger are you using to
> get
> the stragglers up? I have a Schauer charger that
> turns off the moment I hook it to an 8V battery.
> But
> it's only good for 6A.
> 2) Are you charging the stragglers _while_ the
> others
> are on a charge (ie, in parallel?) so that the
> straggler "sees" 12V while the rest see 183V?
> Thanks,
>
> Hello Bob,
>
> The charger I'm using is a Schumacher Model
> WM-1000A. It is a Smart charger than can charge at
> 6 or 12 volt at 40 amp, 15 amp and 2 amp. It has
> settings for a Regular battery, deep cell, AGM or
> GEL.
>
> It has a digital voltage indicator that also shows
> percentage of charge.
>
> You can used this unit as a tester to find the
> highest and lowest battery voltage. I find it is
> best to drive the EV until your are down to about 75
> percent so you has some room for charging the
> separate batteries.
>
> First find the battery with the highest voltage
> and put on a short charge on it which will indicated
> the charger voltage which will be higher than the
> standing battery voltage. Then used this charger
> voltage as a reference for all the other batteries
> you bring up to that reference voltage.
>
> If I have a battery that is only 0.04 voltage
> difference than the highest battery, it will take
> less than a minute to bring it up. So you will have
> to be alert to switch the charger off. There is no
> power switch on these chargers, you have to pull the
> wall plug anyway first, before installing the DC
> charger clips on to the battery. I am going to
> install a switch on the top portion of this charger
> which will be in the cable storage compartment.
>
> Before I had this charger, I had a standard 12
> volt charger of which I could charge the 6 volt
> batteries, which the amperes would be double and I
> had to be very quick to shut it down. I had to used
> a separate digital volt meter to monitor the
> voltage.
>
> If you get one of these chargers that have only 6
> and 12 volt rating, I would first test it out on
> your 8 volt batteries to see if it will work. If
> not, than take it back. I think Schumacher makes a 6
> - 8 - 12 volt battery charger that you may have to
> special order. I always test out anything to see
> if it will work.
>
> Roland
>
>
> --- Roland Wiench
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>> wrote:
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Thomas
>
Peterson<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>>
>
> > To:
> >
>
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>>
>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 10:54 AM
> > Subject: Still needing prof. battery advice.
> > Additives
> >
> >
> > <
> >
> > Hello Tom,
> >
> > The Battery Additive - "Charge It" in one
> gallon
> > by JC Whitney is Item No. SV133723. Is on page
> 187
> > In there winter catalog No. 705F-12. Phone No:
> > 1-800-529-4486.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> > The reason may, that I been adding a battery
> > additive which you can get
> > by the gallons from JC Whitney. I add this
> > additive when the batteries
> > where new and about every 4 years. It
> dissolves
> > sulfation and prevent
> > sulfation formation.
> >
> > Another reason, which I was told by my battery
> > company if you want a long
> > battery life, is not to discharge the
> batteries
> > below 80%!!! and never
> > charge it above 95% every day, except about
> once a
> > month to 100% for equalization.
> >
> >
> > I normally charge the battery between 75 to
> 80%
> > because my driving range
> > is very short. It takes about 4 days of
> driving
> > to get down to 75%.
> >
> > HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL
> >
> > I bought a gallon of "Charge it" five years
> ago
> > and put two ounces in each of my
> > T-105's in my Citicar. I used the Lester plus
> > intermittent charges with two
> > K-Mart auto bat tree chargers and I used a
> multi
> > meter to read the voltage of
> > each bat tree.
> >
> > Do you have the item number for the gallon of
> > "Charge it" at JC Whitney?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
>
>
> '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD
> available)!
>
>
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html>>
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe
> came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any
> gas for your kids?
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
>
>
http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/<http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/<http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/<http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/>>
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html>
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/<http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve and All,
I got around $1000 from the Feds in 2002 for the truck conversion (form
8834), which helped with the cost of over $8000. It doesn't surprise me
that they have lowered the credit, as we have the best administration and
congress that oil money can buy!
Dave (B.B.) Hawkins
Member of the Denver Electric Vehicle Council:
http://www.devc.org/
Card carrying member and former racer with The National Electric Drag
Racing Association:
http://www.nedra.com/
Lyons, CO
1979 Mazda RX-7 EV (192V of Orbs for the teenagers)
1989 GM (General Murderers of the EV-1!) S10 (144V of floodies, for Pa only!)
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 08:50:13 EST
>
>I was just reviewing the federal tax form and found out that they are
>reducing the tax credit for conversions. Conversions placed into service
>in 2005
>(ending today) get a 10% credit. Starting tomorrow, the credit is only
>2.5%.
>That sure doesn't make me very happy. Also, I see that credits offered by my
>home state (Georgia) are not what they used to be. They are offering a 10%
>credit as well, but it used to be $2500 a few years ago. I seem to remember
>people buying NEVs (basically golf carts) and getting them free after the tax
>credit.
>
>Does anyone know the plans for these credits after 2006? It seems to me
>(from the federal form at least) that it may just go away after 2006. I
>think we
>should all write congress and try to get this thing reversed and back to
>10%.
>It may not seem like much, but on $6000 worth of conversion parts, I could
>have got a credit of $1200. If I can finish within a year, I can only get
>$750.
> Thats a pretty big deal to me. I was counting on the $1200.
>
>Steve
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dennis wrote:
> I think I will go with the starter mounted to the motor plate and ring gear
> idea for now.
What kind of rpm will that ring gear see? What will that ring gear be
off of? How will it be mounted?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about using the SAE J1634 standard: Electric Vehicle Energy Consumption
and Range Test Procedure.
http://www.sae.org/servlets/productDetail?PROD_TYP=STD&PROD_CD=J1634_200210
You can gets these in the SAE Handbook available at most university
libraries.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov
Sent: December 28, 2005 5:55 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Range in Rudman, was Re: Units of EV merit
Michaela,
Michaela Merz wrote:
> Rich Rudman wrote:
>
>>All our measuremnts can be made using normal units.
>>so lets keep them that way.
>
> AFAIK, there is no 'normal' unit to define the range of an EV.
The normal units for a range are, well, "miles".
The range will always be miles (or kilometers).
> This is why
> I suggested to agree on some new formula that takes (almost) all
> factors into account and is relatively easy to measure, even for
> newbies. DOD could be measured by drop in voltage (all we need is a
> handy spreadsheet that shows approx. DOD percentages in regard to battery
voltage).
The factors you are talking about even easily measurable for newbies are all
"individual" and different, so direct comparison of EVs makes little sense -
so many factors affect the range.
How can you put in formula driving habits which affect the range of
otherwise identical cars, batteries battery ages, terrains, cargo weights,
and bunch of other parameters impossible to have identical? All those can in
theory be formalized in a formula with a bunch of fudge factors, but I'm
afraid it won't be really that useful.
In general, 80% DOD is limit agreed upon for 100% discharged (for driving
purposes) pack. If you know your average energy per mile consumption, you
know your average range.
Energy can be precisely measured but hardly can be accurately predicted for
new user/conversion. As I said and you probably experienced, consumption
greatly depends on the driver's skill to drive an EV - something you can't
really formalize in numbers.
My 2mm.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Oh man.....my side is still aching!!!
>(J. Marvin Campbell)
>I would kill everyone in this room for a clone of "Blue Meanie":^O
See Ya....John Wayland
Voted for Matt's and Rod's cars today (and of course, mine too)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John,
Did you list Blue Meanie? Where?
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of John Wayland
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 8:30 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Mt Favorite DragTimes.com Comment!
Hello to All,
Oh man.....my side is still aching!!!
>(J. Marvin Campbell)
>I would kill everyone in this room for a clone of "Blue Meanie":^O
See Ya....John Wayland
Voted for Matt's and Rod's cars today (and of course, mine too)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Whats wrong with Wh/mile as a standard to measure our rigs? Our daily
drivers are probably running 300 to 500 Watt-Hours/Mile I would guess as an
average. This is a guess based on the numbers I've done for the small light
truck I'm working on. It will be worse for heavier and better for more
aerodynamic rigs. Its the natural selection of units if you are going to
compare cost to fuel an EV compared to cost of gas for an ICE. The only
thing left to testers is to recreate the conditions of the Dyno Road Load
Power Settings which are based on SAE J1263 at temps of 77°F ± 9°F. This is
no trivial matter doing this on the road. I haven't looked up the
parameters of the Road Load profile but it would be a good thing to look up.
I found an implementation test procedure of J1634 from 1997 from the Elecric
Transportation Association that might give some insight to the procedure. I
haven't found one for the 2002 revision of J1634, but will keep looking.
Here's a quote from section 6.0 of this document:
"This procedure performs SAE Standard J1634 testing at an ambient
temperature of
77°F ± 9°F. The load cycles shall follow the combined UDS/HWFET road load
schedule contained in SAE Standard J1634, May93. Test room temperatures
shall
be controlled in accordance with existing facility instructions."
http://avt.inel.gov/pdf/fsev/eva/etatp3r2.pdf
http://www.eere.energy.gov/vehiclesandfuels/avta/pdfs/uev/eva/etautp1r0.pdf
Short or recreating the test load profile, one could calculate the Wh/Mi of
their own rig on their own commute route based on D.O.D. values of their
pack after a cycle. Then we would state the conditions, i.e. temperature,
altitude devations, average speed and speed deviations as well as average
numbers of stop/starts.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 7:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Range in Rudman, was Re: Units of EV merit
How about using the SAE J1634 standard: Electric Vehicle Energy Consumption
and Range Test Procedure.
http://www.sae.org/servlets/productDetail?PROD_TYP=STD&PROD_CD=J1634_200210
You can gets these in the SAE Handbook available at most university
libraries.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov
Sent: December 28, 2005 5:55 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Range in Rudman, was Re: Units of EV merit
Michaela,
Michaela Merz wrote:
> Rich Rudman wrote:
>
>>All our measuremnts can be made using normal units.
>>so lets keep them that way.
>
> AFAIK, there is no 'normal' unit to define the range of an EV.
The normal units for a range are, well, "miles".
The range will always be miles (or kilometers).
> This is why
> I suggested to agree on some new formula that takes (almost) all
> factors into account and is relatively easy to measure, even for
> newbies. DOD could be measured by drop in voltage (all we need is a
> handy spreadsheet that shows approx. DOD percentages in regard to battery
voltage).
The factors you are talking about even easily measurable for newbies are all
"individual" and different, so direct comparison of EVs makes little sense -
so many factors affect the range.
How can you put in formula driving habits which affect the range of
otherwise identical cars, batteries battery ages, terrains, cargo weights,
and bunch of other parameters impossible to have identical? All those can in
theory be formalized in a formula with a bunch of fudge factors, but I'm
afraid it won't be really that useful.
In general, 80% DOD is limit agreed upon for 100% discharged (for driving
purposes) pack. If you know your average energy per mile consumption, you
know your average range.
Energy can be precisely measured but hardly can be accurately predicted for
new user/conversion. As I said and you probably experienced, consumption
greatly depends on the driver's skill to drive an EV - something you can't
really formalize in numbers.
My 2mm.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jan 2, 2006, at 4:48 PM, Roderick Wilde wrote:
The "Maniac Mazda" is now up on Drag Times at
http://www.dragtimes.com/Mazda-RX-7-Timeslip-7519.html if you would
care to vote. For daily voting there will be links at NEDRA
www.nedra.com.
Excellent! I voted.
I put up a very poor quality gif but it gets the point across.
Yes, it certainly does - I love the animation.
Come on folks, get your drag cars up there.
Will Gone Postal end up there sometime soon?
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
First my apologies for the goofy typo Mt Favorite.....geesh! I'm sure
everyone knows I meant for the title to read 'My Favorite DragTimes.com
Comment!
Cor van de Water wrote:
John,
Did you list Blue Meanie? Where?
No, I did not list it, because I have no time slips for it, thus, it
does not qualify for the DragTimes.com site. There's two explanations
for this, however:
(1) Under the 'Timeslip Comments' section of White Zombie's Timeslip
page, Rod Wilde mentioned Blue Meanie and gave a link for it when
responding to the poster 'Wolfer':
(Wolfer)
And street legal! Now that's what I need for running back and forth to
work, of course we'd have to get rid of the stickers for even more fun...
------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Roderick Wilde)
Hey Wolfer, Here is a direct link to "Plasma Boy's" ultra clean
unassuming little Datsun that blows em away at the traffic lights. A
true "sleeper" http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/
(2) At White Zombie's Timeslip page, there is also a link to the Plasma
Boy Racing web page, and of course, once there, anyone can check out
Blue Meanie.
See Ya......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Great to hear it's in good hands!
If the windshield is the same as the regular
postal trucks then that may be where to get
info on how to maintain it...
Since it is cheap flat glass, you should
be able to get a good lead from any car body shop
around, including a quote ;-)
If the glass is broken, then you can pull a bit out
and check if it's indeed riveted, then you'll need
to drill the rivets out and pop new in with the
new windshield.
Usually though the windshield is held in place by
the window rubber alone.
To put a new windshield in, the carglass people use
a strong thread stuffed in the rubber opening to
pull the rubber alongside a new installed windshield.
Don't know if that's the same here.
Bodyshop or garage will have the answer.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 3:33 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List;
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; SFEVA
Subject: Postal van gone.
Bob Burnside [EMAIL PROTECTED] got the Postal Van. Very nicely laid
out & easy to work on. Fixed the locks and hood latch today. The emergency
disconnect is very stiff in the cable but works under the hood. by hand.
Might have to take out the cable. The windshield is smashed. I can't
figure out how to get it out. Looks riveted in. If anyone has the manual
for this vehicle could you please email me & Bob Burnside a copy. The van
is in fair shape with good seats. Needs the stock sliding battery rack.
Thanks to all.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/121693611.html
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
Voltsporsche AC electric vehicle EV conversion kit for Porsche 914 (oakland
piedmont / montclair)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Reply to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2005-12-31, 11:16AM PST
Voltsporsche AC electric vehicle conversion kit for Porsche 914
Manufactured by Electro Automotive
This kit includes everything you need to convert any Porsche 914 into an EV
-- electric motor, controller, cables, battery boxes, mounting hardware,
etc. The only thing not included are the batteries themselves.
This is an AC drive version of the DC drive kit that Electro Automotive has
been producing for many years. From their web site:
"This is an AC version of our custom Voltsporsche kit specifically designed
to fit all years and version of the Porsche 914 (and ONLY the 914). It uses
the original manual transmission with a 144V pack of U.S. Battery 8V
batteries, and includes regenerative braking. The motor/controller system is
manufactured by Solectria/Azure Dynamics. This car has a top speed of 100
mph, and a range of 150 miles under optimum conditions. It represents the
ultimate combination of performance, range, and affordability."
Check out all the specs and details on Electro Automotive's site at
http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/ackits.shtml
I ordered this kit 3+ months ago, planning to convert a 914. Due to recent
increased demand for electric vehicles, some of the kit components have long
lead times, and I have just now received them. Unfortunately, the new home
that my wife and I are building has run somewhat over budget, and we're now
forced to choose between scrapping the plans for a rooftop photovoltaic on
the house, or postponing the electric Porsche 914 project and trying to
recoup our cost for the conversion kit. The solar system has won out, so the
kit is up for sale.
Our cost for the kit was $13292, which included sales tax and shipping. I am
flexible on the price. I'd like be able to build our solar system and see
this kit go to good use, rather than have it sit in our garage unused, even
if that means selling it at a loss. You'll also get to "cut in line" and
have the kit now, rather than waiting the three months for a new order.
This item has been posted by-owner.
--- End Message ---
