EV Digest 5592
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Taper Lock Adapter
by "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: More Insanity !!!!!!! WAS: This Just In!!
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Hacked into the Dolphin's microcode
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Taper Lock Adapter
by "steve clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Narrow Sidewalls
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Hacked into the Dolphin's microcode
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Narrow Sidewalls
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Frank DIDIK opinion, again
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Narrow Sidewalls
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Taper Lock Adapter
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Taper Lock Adapter, Comments
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Frank DIDIK opinion
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Taper Lock Adapter
by "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Narrow Sidewalls
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Narrow Sidewalls
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Narrow Sidewalls
by "Chris Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Taper Lock Adapter
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Taper Lock Adapter
by "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) 86 Toyota Pickup 4WD - update - it runs
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Narrow Sidewalls
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Gorrilla EV biz up for sale
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Taper Lock Adapter
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) High Peddle Safety "Engage" Contactor
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Hacked into the Dolphin's microcode
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: High Peddle Safety "Engage" Contactor
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Hacked into the Dolphin's microcode
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Hacked into the Dolphin's microcode
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Impressions of a newby - 50, make that 100, EV miles and counting
by Steve Condie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Can someone tell me if there is a business or person that sells the
Taper Lock Adapter and hub without the flywheel holes drilled? I have
searched the internet this past weekend without much luck. I am
converting a 4 cylinder 1991 Dodge Dakota pickup and I can not find the
adapter set for it. So, I would like to make my own. I have a friend
of mine that is a retired machinist and he is going to help me with this
part of my project. We can make the transmission cover and the motor
mounting plate but it would be easier to just buy a generic Taper Lock
and hub instead of reinventing the thing.
Also I would like to thank all of the experts and seasoned veterans on
this list that take their time to help us newbie's. We really do
appreciate all of your help and advice. This is only my second question
as I spend most of my spare time reading all of the other comments. I
find that I can get a lot of great information by just reading.
Thanks,
Fred
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob Rice writes:
>
>
> Almost End of Rant. Yes goddamn it! I'm furious! What recourse does Tony
> have?
Perhaps Tony can go after the owner or general contractor of the work site
that the dump truck was working at?
Did he get his homeowner's insurance company involved, as well as the
insurance company of the Jeep that got crunched?
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Christopher Zach wrote:
>What would a 160kw AC powered Geo Prizm do?
0-60 mph in about 4.5 seconds?
Seriously, you should try that!
Maybe add a pack of those large 70 pound Hawkers to get
1,500+ pounds battery weight, if it'll fit.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Hatsell
Can someone tell me if there is a business or person that sells the
Taper Lock Adapter and hub without the flywheel holes drilled?
I have been using chain gears , no. 60 chain , I've also used pulleys . My
local tractor and supply store has them . Some things to look for . The
taper on the taper lock must be small enough to clear the fly wheel holes.
Can't have the fly wheel bolts hitting the part that goes on the shaft . The
other problem is that the bolts that pull the taper lock together will be on
the same side as the motor face so you can't tighten them . You have to re
do them so you can tighten them for the same side as the fly wheel , which
means sinking them .
I have
searched the internet this past weekend without much luck. I am
converting a 4 cylinder 1991 Dodge Dakota pickup and I can not find the
adapter set for it. So, I would like to make my own. I have a friend
of mine that is a retired machinist and he is going to help me with this
part of my project. We can make the transmission cover and the motor
mounting plate but it would be easier to just buy a generic Taper Lock
and hub instead of reinventing the thing.
I hope you will post how and what you do , If you find another source of
taper locks , and how you line the tranny to the motor .
Also I would like to thank all of the experts and seasoned veterans on
this list that take their time to help us newbie's.
All you newbie's will be becoming the seasoned veterans much faster that
you think as a pond with no fish , first one is the biggest :-) .
Steve Clunn
We really do
appreciate all of your help and advice. This is only my second question
as I spend most of my spare time reading all of the other comments. I
find that I can get a lot of great information by just reading.
Thanks,
Fred
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've been seeing a lot of cars on the road recently riding on tires with
very narrow sidewalls. For example, I looked at a Lexus in a parking lot
yesterday, and the middle number on the tire was not the usual 65 or 75, but
30, something like 225 30 R15.
It this just some designer trend, or does it have a practical side that
might be relevant to EVs?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ed's 100kw Saturn?
BTW, I bumped the max current parameter and achieved 229 amps at 280
volts. So that's 64kw already. The 229 amps was short lived. I'm not
sure if there is another constant to change because my nimh packs
could easily handle 300 amps but something is keeping them from do so.
Maybe software. If I had a pack that ran at least 312 nominal then I
think 80kw is achieveable.
Let me know if there are any hardware differences that you might find
in the 80kw version.
Once again, nice save on the HC11.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Just a note: This evening after a weekend of trying I was able to build
> a circuit that allows me complete access to the 68HC711K4
microprocessor
> in the Hughes AC Dolphin. I can now see and modify all the parameters.
>
> First order is to fix the stranded chips that got messed up via DOLCOM.
> Next up is 80kw Prizm update. Then maybe 100kw; I liked Ed Ang's car in
> CA and want one of my own.
>
> Or I could double the IGBTs in a daughter box and go to 160kw. What
> would a 160kw AC powered Geo Prizm do? Before the diff explodes :-)
>
> Chris
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
I've been seeing a lot of cars on the road recently riding on tires with
very narrow sidewalls. For example, I looked at a Lexus in a parking lot
yesterday, and the middle number on the tire was not the usual 65 or 75, but
30, something like 225 30 R15.
The middle number is not sidewall width it is aspect radio (ratio of
width and height):
--snip--
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/catalog.gsp?cat=497363#1
Aspect Ratio
This is how tall your tire is. The bigger the number, the taller the
tire. Typically, the lower the aspect ratio, the higher performance the
tire. An all-season passenger tire will typically have an aspect ratio
between 65 and 80. It is expressed as a percentage of the height divided
by the width (75%, 70%, 65%), and is commonly referred to as the tire
series (75, 70, 65).
--snip--
Performance cars have low aspect ratios because the tire is a typical
height but is a lot wider for better grip.
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 1:31 AM
Subject: Re: Frank DIDIK opinion
> One thing I dislike is his comment that batteries "pollute" while
> charging, giving off hydrogen and oxygen that could explode ...
> While batteries do gas a little, it is my understanding that this is
> minimal and SHOULD be minimal otherwise you are just cooking the life
> out of your batteries. Am I wrong?
Hi EVerybody;
I never made it into his drivel THAT far. You don't have to drink a
whole glass of spoiled milk to find that it is sour! I read into it a bit,
then deleted. I have seen his hokey pedal stuff and he drives a Citicar,
that isn't all bad, but he hasn't progressed, obviously, tech wise. If he is
seriously publishing this crap, he is shooting off both his feet, here.He
isn't on to the concept of controlled battery charging? You don't gas all
your water out of the batteries with ANY modern charger.You are definately
right on that one!!
Electricity has been in common use for well over a century, DC AV and
EVerything in between, as Marty says.The very air, well, that's a poor term,
is FULL of Radio frequencies, RF, from radios, microwaves, cell fones. The
damn Computer you are reading this on. How CAN he , in all seriousness make
these claims. Sorry the guy is SO far out in left field the shuttle bus
won't go that far to pick him up. Gas OR Electric.Only met him once. Was
enough for me, I didn't think he was still at it?
> He goes on to say that "electro-magnetic emissions" from the batteries
> could cause "various human ailments" If this is the case, then we'd all
> have major issues and NOT from electric cars.
> I think he tries to have an answer for everything, that he may not
> really know enough about to be an authority - regardless of his
> experience.
Experience? I don't think so? A pedal thing, a Citi Car, Go WEST of
Secaucus, my man! Secaucus is the first stop WEST of Penn Station on Jersey
Trainset.(Transit)Brooklyn has been bad for him.
Reading this list for a while leads me to believe he is a
> bit outdated.
and underinformed.
>
> His EM thoughts remind me of the MD who was telling people not to talk
> on their cellphones in a lightning storm because it could attract the
> lightning.
>
Or ,serious tech people in 1880 that needed reassurance that electricity
actually COULD keep up with a fast train.Ran fast trains for years and of
course it can't <g>!Until trains go so fast that they get there before they
leave, or if I go faster than light, do I need a head or marker light on a
train? Hafta talk to Frank on that one?
My two stations worth.
Bob
Be mindful that happiness is not based on possessions, power or
prestiege, but on relationships with people you love and respect.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Performance cars have low aspect ratios because the tire is a typical
> height but is a lot wider for better grip.
>
Shorter sidewalls translate into less flex/movement in the sidewall for better
handling. Also
translates into a harsher ride.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am converting a 4 cylinder 1991 Dodge Dakota pickup and I can not find the
> adapter set for it. So, I would like to make my own.
If you are keeping the clutch, you may want to consider welding the flywheel to
the taperlock
adapter. If you have a good clutch, pressure plate and flywheel, they will
probably last forever
once you go electric. Just an option, no drilling required.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 7:51 AM
Subject: Taper Lock Adapter
> Can someone tell me if there is a business or person that sells the
> Taper Lock Adapter and hub without the flywheel holes drilled? I have
> searched the internet this past weekend without much luck. I am
> converting a 4 cylinder 1991 Dodge Dakota pickup and I can not find the
> adapter set for it. So, I would like to make my own. I have a friend
> of mine that is a retired machinist and he is going to help me with this
> part of my project. We can make the transmission cover and the motor
> mounting plate but it would be easier to just buy a generic Taper Lock
> and hub instead of reinventing the thing.
>
> Hi Fred;
I hear you! I went to my friendly bearing store about 6 years ago when I
was converting my Rabbit. HE sent me to another place in New Haven, I wish I
could remember WHERE. Or had saved the box it came in.I took it, the taper
lock, this spring to the bearing place hoping for the link again. Hah! I may
as well have brought him a piece of the Roswel crashed flying saucer! He was
clueless!But they DO make just what you are looking for, though. Mine is a 1
and an eight bore, the hub slips on the motor shaft and the two allan set
screws tighten a sorta outer" Race" for want of a better term, up tight on
the split hub, snugging it TIGHT onto the motor shaft. The great advantage
is that you can adjust the position of the flywheel and clutch so it will
throw the clutch out when you step on the pedal. You would be surprised at
how a little here can make such a differance on clutch action! Try a
coupling or bearing place, mechanical power transfer place, maybe Graingers?
I have seen variations of a theme here. KTA services sold the guy that first
converted the Sentra I'm working on, now. It had a lovely taper lock. KTA
musta set this one up as everything just bolted together, just like that, a
JOY! Was the best part of the car!! So give KTA services a shout, or Electro
Automotive, Mike or Sherri. At least THEY would know what you were talking
about!Probably HAVE the thing in stock for youir rig?? Don't scimp here!
Google them up!
Other extreames is to hack the last journal off the gas engine, the part
with the flywheel bolt pattern, and pilot hole for the tranny, taper bore it
and the motor shaft, cut a keyway, and tighten it to the motor with a BIG
nut. Of course you have only one " adjustment" on this, when it goes on,
that's IT! And it takes a thermo nuclear explosion to get it apart!Not as
cool as a good taperlock, that a machinist has cut the locating ridge for
your flywheel, and the 6 bolts holes drilled and tapped. Don't give up, keep
asking.But get it right as this is the most critical part of converting a
car. Other stuff a sledge hammer and torch can often correct, but this has
to be true and right, for the glass smooth stuff you will be EV grinning
about!
>
> Also I would like to thank all of the experts and seasoned veterans on
> this list that take their time to help us newbie's. We really do
> appreciate all of your help and advice. This is only my second question
> as I spend most of my spare time reading all of the other comments. I
> find that I can get a lot of great information by just reading.
>
> Hey, Friends don't let friends, ......like do EV's on their own, in dark
,dusty, garages, alone and unhelped!This is why we are here and have fun!
We ALL were Newbies at one time!
>
> My taper Lock's worth
Bob
Be mindful that happiness is not based on possessions , power or
prestiege, but on relationships with people you love and respect.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This 'article' is not worth the magnetic particles used to store it on
hard disk. It is full of errors and contains unvalid suggestions.
He compares cell phone emissions and the potentital health hazard with
electro magnetic emissions from an EV. While I wouldn't completely dismiss
the *potential* of hazards in regard to low frequency emissions, it is
wrong to compare both risks. Cell phones emitt high frequency pulsed
signals that may warm the tissues around the ear and have the potential to
dammage cells in the body: hence they call it cell phone ;)
The pollution issue has been discussed over and over again. It should be
clear by now, that, yes, driving an EV produces pollution if the energy
comes from a polluting power plant. However the pollution is much less
than a 'regular car' (see
http://www.ucsusa.org/clean_vehicles/cars_pickups_suvs/batteryelectric-vehicles.html)
[quote]
On average, a straight electric (non-hybrid) car, which uses standard deep
cycle lead acid marine type batteries and is charged from the mains, costs
about 3 times more to run than a conventional gasoline car.
[/quote]
I could go on and on. Lot's of unproven claims, pseudo science and half
baked 'information'.
Michaela
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have considered that but I can not find a source for the taperlock
hub. But I would rather bolt the flywheel on instead of welding it on.
What would happen if you needed to replace the flywheel? I have also
thought about trying to find an aluminum flywheel for less weight.
Fred Hartsell
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dave Cover
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 10:32 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Taper Lock Adapter
--- "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am converting a 4 cylinder 1991 Dodge Dakota pickup and I can not
find the
> adapter set for it. So, I would like to make my own.
If you are keeping the clutch, you may want to consider welding the
flywheel to the taperlock
adapter. If you have a good clutch, pressure plate and flywheel, they
will probably last forever
once you go electric. Just an option, no drilling required.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark wrote:
>The middle number is not sidewall width it is aspect radio (ratio of
>width and height):
Right, that's what I was saying. For a width of 225, 30% is an awfully
narrow sidewall: under 3 inches tall.
Thanks for the link.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave Cover wrote:
Shorter sidewalls translate into less flex/movement in the sidewall
for better handling. Also
translates into a harsher ride.
There is some question among tire manufacturers as to how true this is.
(which is why I didn't mention it) Advances in sidewall design have
allowed lower profile tires, and most high performance street cars have
moved to low profile. Less sidewall flex means less lean (good), but as
the tire approaches its limit it tends to tilt the contact patch off the
road. (bad) This may be why many performance drivers describe lower
profile as improving handling, but warn that the tires give less warning
as they lose grip. Most racing tires still have taller than average
sidewalls.
For EVers shorter sidewalls are stiffer which should improve rolling
resistance, but they are usually built with sticky performance compound
which would negate most rolling resistance gains from the stiffer sidewalls.
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Having recently made this modification to my Integra (larger wheels,
shorter sidewalls) I can offer my experiences here.
The primary reason for doing this has to do with a phenomenon called
"steering slip angle". This is caused by flex in the sidewall of the tire
during cornering, and the effect is to produce an actual angle of steering
that is offset from the angle of the wheels, by an amount that varies with
speed (due to varying centrifugal force from the center of the turning
arc). The taller your sidewalls, the more flex there is, and the
"sloppier" steering feels at high speed because of this effect.
My tire sidewalls are now about an inch and a half tall on my Integra, and
the result is that this feeling has been essentially eliminated. The car
turns like it's on rails. I get back into a car with more typical tires
now, and the steering feels very imprecise.
To get this though, I have to live with a couple serious drawbacks. First
is the road noise. Even with soft sport tires, the ride is just a lot
louder. Second is acceleration -- I've traded a noticeable amount for
handling. The aluminum wheels are heavier now, and as they say a pound on
the wheel is worth two on the body. On 18" wheels my car does not
accelerate as quickly as it did before on 15s.
I'd say for a heavy EV, due to the reduced cushion of the tire and the
added weight of the wheel, it'd be best to not go with an extremely
low-profile tire.
--chris
On Mon, June 26, 2006 8:23 am, Bill Dennis said:
> I've been seeing a lot of cars on the road recently riding on tires with
> very narrow sidewalls. For example, I looked at a Lexus in a parking lot
> yesterday, and the middle number on the tire was not the usual 65 or 75,
> but
> 30, something like 225 30 R15.
>
> It this just some designer trend, or does it have a practical side that
> might be relevant to EVs?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There's a company called Fidanza (www.fidanza.com) that makes aluminum
flywheels. It was close to
$300 for one for my car, so I opted to have the flywheel machined to lighten
it. Maybe my next car
will have an aluminum flywheel.
--- "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have also thought about trying to find an aluminum flywheel for less
> weight.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I wonder how much weight is actually saved by switching to an Aluminum
flywheel vs. the expense of doing same. I would think that machining off
the "diameter" of the stock flywheel (teeth, etc, per email below) would be
close to what one could accomplish on the order of reducing the weight of
same, and should be able to be done at very little cost. My guess is that
it is not worth going to the expense of an AL flywheel unless you are
planning to race the vehicle, or maybe you just got some cash burning a hole
in your pocket!
Mike
From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Taper Lock Adapter
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 07:57:19 -0700 (PDT)
There's a company called Fidanza (www.fidanza.com) that makes aluminum
flywheels. It was close to
$300 for one for my car, so I opted to have the flywheel machined to
lighten it. Maybe my next car
will have an aluminum flywheel.
--- "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have also thought about trying to find an aluminum flywheel for less
weight.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
86 Toyota Pickup 4WD - update
I cut the power steering pump out of the system, and
now it steers easier.
I mounted 4-6volt batteries up front, and 16 in the
rear.
I connected the curtis controller under the seat, and
brought in 4 wires in the cab. 2 wires for B+ and one
for M- and one for one for B-.
I connected a circuit breaker between the 120vdc+ and
B+ on the controller. The breaker had a 120v light
bulb in parallel.
I connected a wire from B+ to the top KSI on the
curtis, and have a foot pedal connected.
Turned the light bulb on, and then it slowly faded.
Then turned the breaker on. I heard nothing.
Then put the truck in reverse, and pressed the pedal.
It drove! I took it for a small trip, and got to 25mph
in 2nd gear.
I sent two wires from the engine compartment: One from
the 120vdc+ and the other from the motor armature to
B+. Perhaps I could've connected that in the engine
compartment? And sent one wire to B+?
Also thinking about getting a 14" wheels for this 15"
truck. Anyone know the load range on those rolling
resistance tires? Do they come in "LT"
Also this contactor, which I didn't use yet has four
posts on the top and bottom. Not sure which does what?
Thanks
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Bill,
I been looking for a replacement tires for my EV for the last 2 years now. I
will not need any tires for about 4 more years, but I always start early in my
research.
The most important thing with a tire specifications is the load rating, so you
can set the deflection rate.
I install the existing tires I have now way back in 1985!! They started out
with a thread depth of 0.36 inch and today they are at 0.26 inch!!
These are a Dunlap high pressure radial 225 75SR15 with a load rating of 65 psi
@ 2640 lbs. My rear wheels have a weight load of 2320 lbs and the fronts are
at 1320 lbs per wheel.
Your load rating should at least be 10 percent over the actual load on that
wheel.
I have the rears at 65 psi and the fronts at 50 psi. These tires are a 8 ply
rating steel ply and o-zone resistance. Today they are in perfect condition.
You will find that the load ratings of the narrow wall tires may not be at or
higher then then load on your wheels.
Also the wheels should be able to be rated at the load you are going to put on
them. I could not used a mag or aluminum wheel unless I special order them
from Center Wheel which would cost me $2000.00 each.
So, I using a very heavy duty steel wheel that has a load rating of 3500 lbs.
The deflection rate of the tire should not go over 10% the width of the side
wall. The 10% will give you a soft ride, a 5% is prefer for a lower resistance,
but will be some what harsh.
Lets say you EV weighs 4000 lbs and you have 2000 lbs on each wheel and tire
and you found a tire at that load rating or 2000 lbs at 40 PSI.
Jack the tire off the pavement and air it up to 40 PSI.
Measure the height of the tire side wall, let say it is 4 inches.
Lower the tire, so the weight of the car is on the tire.
Measure the tire side wall height again.
If it reads 3.5 inches than you are over the 10% deflection rate. The tire is
not the correct tire for your rig. It would be best to be at 3.8 inches for a
5% deflection rate.
Truckers run there tires at about 0.385 inch deflection rate, so as to increase
wear and reduce the tire temperature.
You may get by with the narrow side wall tire, if you only run it on very
smooth streets, no gravel roads or pot holes. Many of these types of narrow
wall tires have broken the wheel lips when hitting a dip, edge or a pot hole.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Dennis<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 7:23 AM
Subject: Narrow Sidewalls
I've been seeing a lot of cars on the road recently riding on tires with
very narrow sidewalls. For example, I looked at a Lexus in a parking lot
yesterday, and the middle number on the tire was not the usual 65 or 75, but
30, something like 225 30 R15.
It this just some designer trend, or does it have a practical side that
might be relevant to EVs?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looks like the EV biz that makes Gorrilla EVs is up for sale on
ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Electric-Vehicle-EV-mfg-BUSINESS-FOR-SALE-businesses_W0QQitemZ7630729204QQihZ017QQcategoryZ11760QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor, RE & AFV newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
===== Undo Petroleum Everywhere
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My Porsche is backwards, in that the flywheel is light and the
pressure plate is heavy.
Going from memory, switching to a Fidanza flywheel went from 7 pounds
stock to 5 pounds. It would have been tough to lighten the stock
flywheel much, as the outer edge is a centering lip you would not
want to grind away, plus bolt holes are near the edge, plus it was
pretty thin already. I'd say for most people this was not worth the
$300. I needed to do it for racing rules reasons, the lighter weight
was a bonus.
The pressure plate was another story. The Porsche pressure plate is
very heavy. I replaced it with one from Kennedy Engineering Products.
The KEP pressure plate was about 10 pounds lighter! Since you
generally replace the pressure plate very time you replace the clutch
anyways, it is not as painful to replace. It also has higher clamping
pressure, so the clutch won't slip under the hopefully Waylandesque
acceleration I'll have.
My starter gear bolts on, so I'll save maybe another pound by leaving
that off.
--- Michael Mohlere <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I wonder how much weight is actually saved by switching to an
> Aluminum
> flywheel vs. the expense of doing same. I would think that
> machining off
> the "diameter" of the stock flywheel (teeth, etc, per email below)
> would be
> close to what one could accomplish on the order of reducing the
> weight of
> same, and should be able to be done at very little cost. My guess
> is that
> it is not worth going to the expense of an AL flywheel unless you
> are
> planning to race the vehicle, or maybe you just got some cash
> burning a hole
> in your pocket!
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--- Begin Message ---
Howdy Folk's,
I'm glad I have a high peddle safety "Engage" contactor as my control failed
on today when splashing through some deep water. (Gotta move it to a higher
location with heat sink air flow). I guess the uP & IGBT gate control
circuitry didn't like getting wet. Even though the board & IGBT wiring had
several layers of polyurethane (conformal coating) there was apparently a path
from the high +72V cabling to the zener clamped gate drive. There was a loud
bang as it went full on & I released the acell peddle which zorched the main
engage contactor but saved me from an accident. I think the new rear end is
trashed though cause it's a bit crunchy now when I towed it home on a flatbed.
Probably shouldn't drive the EV during flood warnings.
Remember to connect a main contactor (with pre-charge resistor) to the
microswitch on the Curtis potbox so the main contactor disconnects the battery
everytime you release the peddle. In the years I've been driving EV's (& at
GE-EV) I've seen controllers fail on occasionally and am glad I have a safety
"engage" contactor.
Best Regards,
Mark
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football 06 - Go with the leader. Start your league
today!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Phillips wrote:
Ed's 100kw Saturn?
*nod* It was an interesting little drive. It feels a lot like the Prizm
in that it takes some time for the rotor to saturate and get it moving.
But it definitely feels like more power once it gets on the step.
With these darn Hawkers, I should be able to mimic that.
BTW, I bumped the max current parameter and achieved 229 amps at 280
volts. So that's 64kw already. The 229 amps was short lived. I'm not
sure if there is another constant to change because my nimh packs
could easily handle 300 amps but something is keeping them from do so.
Maybe software. If I had a pack that ran at least 312 nominal then I
think 80kw is achieveable.
I'm beginning to think there is more in this chip that DOLCOM cannot
see/modify. Have you looked at the HC711 memory maps, and are there
things that don't relate to what's in DOLCOM?
There also really isn't much code at all in the 711's PROM section. I
don't think this thing runs the motor, it seems to do stuff like run the
temp gauge. Fairly stupid actually, they could have done this with a
BASIC STAMP :-)
Let me know if there are any hardware differences that you might find
in the 80kw version.
So far not a one. There is another possibility: That the remapping is
done not in the 711 chip, but in the DSP chip. I'm pretty sure the
MACH-220 state machines are the same.
Once again, nice save on the HC11.
Thank you. My comfort level in changing things on the Dolphins has just
shot through the roof. Now I should try making a new chip or two.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sounds like you'll need a new IGBT module.
Send me an email and let me know.
Usually the control card is spared with the exception
of R24 which is a 10 ohm 0805 resistor (usually burns
open).
Rod
--- "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Howdy Folk's,
>
> I'm glad I have a high peddle safety "Engage"
> contactor as my control failed on today when
> splashing through some deep water. (Gotta move it to
> a higher location with heat sink air flow). I guess
> the uP & IGBT gate control circuitry didn't like
> getting wet. Even though the board & IGBT wiring
> had several layers of polyurethane (conformal
> coating) there was apparently a path from the high
> +72V cabling to the zener clamped gate drive. There
> was a loud bang as it went full on & I released the
> acell peddle which zorched the main engage contactor
> but saved me from an accident. I think the new rear
> end is trashed though cause it's a bit crunchy now
> when I towed it home on a flatbed. Probably
> shouldn't drive the EV during flood warnings.
>
> Remember to connect a main contactor (with
> pre-charge resistor) to the microswitch on the
> Curtis potbox so the main contactor disconnects the
> battery everytime you release the peddle. In the
> years I've been driving EV's (& at GE-EV) I've seen
> controllers fail on occasionally and am glad I have
> a safety "engage" contactor.
>
> Best Regards,
> Mark
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football �06 - Go with the
> leader. Start your league today!
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That would be the best of all to be able to duplicate the 711 chips.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Mike Phillips wrote:
> > Ed's 100kw Saturn?
>
> *nod* It was an interesting little drive. It feels a lot like the Prizm
> in that it takes some time for the rotor to saturate and get it moving.
> But it definitely feels like more power once it gets on the step.
>
> With these darn Hawkers, I should be able to mimic that.
>
> > BTW, I bumped the max current parameter and achieved 229 amps at 280
> > volts. So that's 64kw already. The 229 amps was short lived. I'm not
> > sure if there is another constant to change because my nimh packs
> > could easily handle 300 amps but something is keeping them from do so.
> > Maybe software. If I had a pack that ran at least 312 nominal then I
> > think 80kw is achieveable.
>
> I'm beginning to think there is more in this chip that DOLCOM cannot
> see/modify. Have you looked at the HC711 memory maps, and are there
> things that don't relate to what's in DOLCOM?
>
> There also really isn't much code at all in the 711's PROM section. I
> don't think this thing runs the motor, it seems to do stuff like run
the
> temp gauge. Fairly stupid actually, they could have done this with a
> BASIC STAMP :-)
>
> > Let me know if there are any hardware differences that you might find
> > in the 80kw version.
>
> So far not a one. There is another possibility: That the remapping is
> done not in the 711 chip, but in the DSP chip. I'm pretty sure the
> MACH-220 state machines are the same.
>
> > Once again, nice save on the HC11.
>
> Thank you. My comfort level in changing things on the Dolphins has just
> shot through the roof. Now I should try making a new chip or two.
>
> Chris
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't know how to explore the memory map, yet. Although it maybe
better to let you do it since you've gone thru such pains.
They choice of uP I suspect had to do with expandability. If there
plan had worked there would have been a BMS too. So for now the uP is
underutilized.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Mike Phillips wrote:
> > Ed's 100kw Saturn?
>
> *nod* It was an interesting little drive. It feels a lot like the Prizm
> in that it takes some time for the rotor to saturate and get it moving.
> But it definitely feels like more power once it gets on the step.
>
> With these darn Hawkers, I should be able to mimic that.
>
> > BTW, I bumped the max current parameter and achieved 229 amps at 280
> > volts. So that's 64kw already. The 229 amps was short lived. I'm not
> > sure if there is another constant to change because my nimh packs
> > could easily handle 300 amps but something is keeping them from do so.
> > Maybe software. If I had a pack that ran at least 312 nominal then I
> > think 80kw is achieveable.
>
> I'm beginning to think there is more in this chip that DOLCOM cannot
> see/modify. Have you looked at the HC711 memory maps, and are there
> things that don't relate to what's in DOLCOM?
>
> There also really isn't much code at all in the 711's PROM section. I
> don't think this thing runs the motor, it seems to do stuff like run
the
> temp gauge. Fairly stupid actually, they could have done this with a
> BASIC STAMP :-)
>
> > Let me know if there are any hardware differences that you might find
> > in the 80kw version.
>
> So far not a one. There is another possibility: That the remapping is
> done not in the 711 chip, but in the DSP chip. I'm pretty sure the
> MACH-220 state machines are the same.
>
> > Once again, nice save on the HC11.
>
> Thank you. My comfort level in changing things on the Dolphins has just
> shot through the roof. Now I should try making a new chip or two.
>
> Chris
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I thought I'd sent in a reply to these comments days ago but it never showed up
(the EVDL "Bermuda Triangle" strikes again!) Any way, comments for others
considering doing what I did:
Yes; in bringing any car back to life after it has been stored for a long
time the first thing you should do is drain the brake lines, inspect the
brakes, and refill the entire system with fresh fluid. I did that, and found
that there was one bad cylinder which had leaked all over one of the brakes. I
repleced the cylinder and flushed and bled the system. I think the smell came
from that brake as the spilled brake fluid got hot the first few times I drove
it - it has gone away since.
But the main thing (I think) is that after driving cars with power steeing,
power brakes, power-everything for, oh, thirty years or so, for the first time
I was stopping without any power assist, without any engine drag, and without
disc brakes. It takes some getting used to. The brakes are "adequate", but
I'm used to "more than you need."
As to the "handles like a truck", the Courier is rock steady at speeds of 45
- 50 mph (which I have to go as soon as I leave my immediate neighborhood.)
But the tires are pumped up a lot harder than my old minivan, and I've got a
truck suspension. I feel every bump, dip, and lane marker I roll over. Again,
takes some getting used to.
A lot of people who go EV are going to find themselves experiencing the same
phenomena. To lower our rolling resistance we pump up the tires. But that
makes the ride harsher. I didn't want power assisted anything, because the
extra complexity of the power assist system would just be one more thing to go
wrong. So I need to step on the brakes harder (and anticipate better.) You
gotta be willing to roll with it and make some adjustments. Now when I get
back in my minivan I find myself stomping on the brakes a little to hard. I
think I need to find the "V-switch" for my brain.
Robert Chew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What kind of truck is it?
What make?
I've got drum brakes all round too on my littel Fiat 126 with no power
assist. Stock weight was 600kg, now 700 kg converted. It stops ok! Actually
stops like it would when it was gasoline. The brakes were crappy to start
with.
Might want to give your system a good bleed, with some new wheel cylinders
and shoes, and check if they got oil on them. Doesn't help the situation if
they do.
Also try putting on new brake flexi hoses. They help helps. Also a good
master cylinder helps also.
But, i think it sounds like your brakes were not really made to handle so
much weight on the vehicle, if they are smelling. Because when they smell,
it probably indicates that the brakes are working.
Cheers
>From: "Tom Shay"
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To:
>Subject: Re: Impressions of a newby - 50 EV miles and counting
>Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 14:34:30 -0700
>
>Don't drive that truck another mile until its brakes and handling
>problems are resolved. That truck could kill somebody!
>
>Your brakes probably need to be completely rebuilt to restore them
>to like new performance. Your problem is not the lack of
>engine drag. The Courier brakes in good condition should be
>adequate.
>
>You didn't say what your handling problems are. Your Courier
>probably suffers from the usual symptoms of a tail heavy pickup.
>It tends to oversteer and wander. At speeds over about 30 mph it
>could go completely out of control.
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Condie"
>To: "EV List"
>Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 9:11 AM
>Subject: Impressions of a newby - 50 EV miles and counting
>
>(stuff snipped out)
>> 1. Brakes! I had no idea how much effect engine drag has on slowing
>>down in an ICE car, even with an automatic. The Presto just spins merrily
>>along when I WANT TO SLOW DOWN!!! I've got non-power drum brakes all
>>around and I'm standin' on those puppies to make it stop. Too many stops
>>in a short period of time and I start to smell the aroma of too-hot brake
>>shoes. I would really like some regen to take some of the stress off the
>>brakes. (Unfortunately, the Presto has no tailshaft, so I'm mulling my
>>options here.) In the meantime, anticipating traffic conditions ahead to
>>minimize braking seems like a good idea.
>
>> 4. Handling. I need **more** weight in the front (where the Courier is
>>now lighter than stock.) The rear isn't too heavy, since I've crowded the
>>13 AGM's as close to the front of the truck bed as possible, and I should
>>be well below the GVWR (I'm going to go to a public scale and weigh it,
>>just to have a data point.). But it rides high in the front. And it
>>rides like a truck. A 30 year old truck. I guess that makes sense...
>
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