EV Digest 5741
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Drill the motor
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: vehicle modifications
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Are Lithium-Ion Electric Cars Safe?
by "Ryan Plut" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Insane ideas! =)
by Alan Grimes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Belated pics up of Jay's Gamera9
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: You know you're a list member when...
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) EV heaters
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Feeding power back into the grid (was Re: Discharge load?)
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Batteries are a sleep
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Insane ideas! =)
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: EV1: 12 mile range?
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Discharge load?, Gennies an' Stuff.
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: EV1: 12 mile range?
by Zack Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Corvette with 1.3L Hybrid
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Drill the motor
by Randall Prentice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Insane ideas! =)
by "Ryan Plut" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) My ICE Costs
by "Ryan Plut" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: EV1: 12 mile range?
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: questions from a newbie
by "Ron Reid" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: questions from a newbie
by "Matt Kenigson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: questions from a newbie
by "Ron Reid" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Well, I now know that the motor encoder is the source of the truck
problems. Unfortunately the genius who built this car took apart a
standard HP encoder and drilled the alignment holes such that you have
to take the whole thing apart and install it bare instead of using the
case's mounting ears.
Totally stupid. And totally unlike every other Hughes Dolphin install I
have seen.
So I have two choices: Either I can drill holes in the new encoder, or I
can drill out new mounting holes in the motor.
Motor casing is AL; I guess if I punch through I wreck it. I have drills
and collets; what would you do?
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Staffanson Brian J Civ 309 EMXG/QPE wrote:
The car is a '74 VW
super beetle, and I am thinking of removing the front tire, and building a
square box there, and putting the spare somewhere else. (Or removing it, as
I won't be traveling real long distances.)
I used to drive Beetles all the time. Extensive modification is
possible. In my hobbyist's opinion, cutting out the front tire well
will be no problem, especially if you replace it with a rigid battery
box. Most of the weight is carried on the frame; be careful to stay
away from the wheel wells, where the struts are mounted, and the
bedpans. (Think of all the Beetle conversions, like dune buggies and
kit cars. It doesn't matter much what you do to the body, as long as
you keep the bottom and a place to attach the front wheels.)
As for the welding, any place can do it. You need not even weld; my
boxes are held on with rivets, and some listers even bolt them on.
A second question being similar, it has been mentioned here that you should
make sure that the weight added isn't over some special number (something
like GVWR). How is this number decided? Does it have to due with
suspension, the frame, all, none, etc? Is there a way to increase this
special number, so you can carry more weight?
That's the toughie. GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is the
manufacturer's estimate of the maximum safe total weight of the car.
Naturally, the manufacturer underestimates a little, and bases it on the
weakest part. Could be brakes, frame, shocks, steering, even tires.
And what happens when you exceed GVWR? Sometimes it gets tough to
steer, sometimes hard to stop, sometimes things bend, wear out quickly,
or even break.
Yes, the GVWR can be increased, obviously by strengthening the weak
links. But how do you know what the weak link is? It's not like the
manufacturer is going to tell you.
I've only seen two solutions to this problem (not that I've been active
very long). The obvious one is to ensure that your conversion doesn't
exceed the GVWR. Some folks try to take into the manufacturers "wiggle
room".
The less obvious solution is to look at people who deliberately abuse
their cars: rally racers. Whatever they do must be strengthening the
weak links. Do the same and it's possible you'll be increasing your GVWR.
And finally, my advice from experience:
Insulate your tools!
Get a rev limiter!
Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Andrew,
I'd really like to click on the link to see the video, but it asks for a
password. What is the password?
Ryan G. Plut
"Common sense is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it" - G.
Bernard Shaw
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Letton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: Are Lithium-Ion Electric Cars Safe?
If you have broadband, check out the video that Elaine just put up (Thanks
Elaine!) from JB's talk on the Tesla at the EAA meeting a couple of days
ago. Many questions answered...
cheers,
Andrew
Elaine wrote:
hi guys.
I posted some video from JB Straubel's talk at the silicon valley EV
meeting.
the video's about 30 min total, but most of it is the talk by JB about the
car and Tesla motors at the beginning.
we got to see and touch the actual car. very, very cool.
hope lithium comes down for us home EVer's. I just got a 26K quote for 13
x 12v from valence, so I told them I would have to wait a few years.
if you're on low speed internet, it's probably too slow. on hi-speed
cable, it loaded for me in less than a minute.
http://web.mac.com/erdoc/iWeb/Site/tesla%208_06.html
login: citicar
password: citicar
elaine C.
berkeley, CA
Mark Fowler wrote:
I think it is funny that all of the high-profile "commercial" EVs
(ACP, Tesla, Wrightspeed, Venturi) all use the ACP designed packs of
laptop lithiums.
(note above - the commercial was in quotes :-)
All of the designed-for-EV Lithium battery manufacturers go to great
lengths on their websites to explain how their batteries are so much
safer than laptop or phone lithiums.
I wonder why Tesla etc chose the ACP multi-mini-cell packs over
something like Kokams?
Part of the deal for the ACP controller and motor? BMS integrated with
controller/charger electronics?
Who knows?
I just hope that the BMS does a good job of keeping the batts away from
the danger zone.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lock Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, 8 August 2006 1:52 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Are Lithium-Ion Electric Cars Safe?
Seen here:
http://www.techreview.com/read_article.aspx?id=17250&ch=biztec
h&sc=&pg=1
or tinyURL here:
http://tinyurl.com/q6klk
A snip:
Thursday, August 03, 2006
Are Lithium-Ion Electric Cars Safe?
The use of a type of battery with a history of overheating raises
safety concerns.
By Kevin Bullis
Laptops equipped with lithium-ion batteries occasionally overheat and
catch fire. This has some people concerned about the use of this type
of battery in new electric sports cars and kits for converting
conventional cars and hybrid vehicles into all-electric cars.
It's an exciting time for electric vehicles -- with regular
announcements of increasing storage capacities for battery materials
(see "Battery Breakthrough") and exotic, high-priced vehicles slated to
come onto the market, such as the recently announced sports car from
Tesla Motors of San Carlos, CA. But electric vehicles have failed in
the past. If they're going to succeed this time around, they'll need to
win over the general consumer, and that will mean, among other things,
demonstrating that the powerful battery packs are safe. [end of snip]
Tks
Lock
Human/electric hybrid in Toronto
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jack Murray wrote:
> I think the key idea is to have the electric motor showing exposed,
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/7555/31roadster.html
> this link was the best example I could find in a hurry.
> Of course with the electric motor, the radiator shell can be eliminated,
> but then it would not look traditional.
> You'd want a BIG FAT AC Motor with polished cooling fins. even though
> the idea of seeing sparks from the brushes was a feature, you'd probably
> want the motor sealed up.
> Jack
Sealed, yes.
You want minimal circulation in the comutator housing, even to the point
of trying to seal it at the bearing and attaching a vacuum pump. -- I
think. no experience.
The design I sketched out would have both the glass/clear synthetic
housing of the comutator itself. (heck, transparent aluminum is an
available choice these days!)
My idea for the rest of the car was a bit radical and I'd have to resort
to sketches to show you what my fevered immagination came up with, lemme
see if I can sketch it in a list-friendly way....
Lets start with the body.
It is essentially a huge, flatened, tube of plastic, roughly 1" thick.
###############################
################################
[side view, ]
We mould one end into a hemi-spherical nose... [ can't really draw it.]
Now we lay in the battery pax; and capacitors:
/
/
################################||
# @ @ @ @ @ _____||
# |##| |##| |##| |##| |##] $| ||
# |##| |##| |##| |##| |##] $| ||
################################||===================
^ Commutator. ;)
And bolt the suspension to the sides of the tube with no more
reenforcement than is absolutely necessary.
Now between the pack and the motor, there are only three cables, the two
polarities and the harness for the headlights.
There will certainly need to be some structure around the motor to
cunter the torque...
--
Anyone who uses the phrase "Islamofascism" or "Islamic extremist"
without quotes is telling a lie.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey all
Jays had them up at his site for a while now but I never got any finished
pics posted. For those who haven't had a look have a look at this old forklift
motor. Rumor has it Jay will be at the Late Night Nationals so it might be
running here real soon and I thought nows a good time to post them.
On another note. After a poor turnout in 05 at Woodburn and a 2000 mile
cancelled event to Joliet I'm hoping to see some fun action while meeting both
new and old friends at this years Nationals. I'll hopefully do a Portland
motor run that Friday and stay through the EVent. Being we are getting close
now, where can people stay? I know someone wants to come who will have a
canine companion and wanted to know their options. Is there any camping nearby
or at the track, etc. With PIR letting the guys install outlets for charging
it really shows that they are behind the EV's, I for one can't wait to reward
their efforts 8^ )
Although I could be called bias as I might have 4 of my motors running there
(I hope I win, hehe) I believe anyone who could go but doesn't will miss out on
a very fun weekend.
Cya
Jim Husetd
Hi-Torque Electric
http://hitorqueelectric.com
---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ProEV wrote:
We will be happy to race any of you boys but you need to learn how to
turn.
LMAO. Acceleration is exciting. Dragsters do it once. Autocrossers do
it over and over. And in more than one direction!
Jude Anthony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I see that Dodge is offering a reintroduction of the old VW heater... except
perhaps it's diesel powered??? (The brochure didn't explain it well, but it
was for diesel trucks.)
Ya'll may recall the old VW heaters. They were a combustion chamber w/ a
spark plug, and could add much needed heat to a VW Beetle or Bus. This
appears to be the same unit. The brochure states that it can save on fuel,
pre-heating the engine and/or the cab. Instead of heating air, this unit
heats water, which is circulated through the heater and/or engine. (It also
has a timer so the PU can be warm when you come out.)
It price is silly... at $1200... but it's probably made overseas at several
times the marked-up price.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Locally (Eugene OR) you simply tie into the grid. The only "agreement" is a
building permit and having the utility company install a new meter. What
concerns me is the people who say they put small PV systems up, then simply
plug into an outlet in their home. That's not only dangerous, but not overly
intelligent, IMHO.
It doesn't turn backwards, but has a 2nd readout for "feedback" power, I was
told. They deduct one from the other. Another system has a digital
readout... which "spins backwards" in effect. Some meters are not capable of
spinning backwards, per our utility company, and may be damaged... and in
older ones may charge you for the power you put into the system.
The local PV dude says that the inverter simply shuts down when there's no
incoming power. It's all automatic, since the inverter keeps step w/ the
incoming phase. (In order to go offline requires additional equipment, I'm
told... a different inverter, battery backup and a switched panel.)
In Oregon, up to 5% (last time I checked) of consumption can hook up to the
grid at 100% payback. (That is, you generate in day time, and use your
surplus when demand exceeds your system.) As w/ all things in the US, it
depends on your state. All utility companies must meet state requirements,
but some fight PV generation tooth and nail. Others greatly encourage home
generation. After all, as in Eugene, they can sell the power you generate
for a premium as "green" power... so they are bucks ahead. If nothing else,
you are probably producing power in their peak demand period.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: Feeding power back into the grid (was Re: Discharge load?)
> Out here (Oregon) you need an agreement with the local power company, and
> there are a lot of safety features that need to be installed. Even with
all
> that, it is a very popular idea, and ther are numerous small co-generation
> setups around.
>
> Joe
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Weathers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 12:00 PM
> Subject: Feeding power back into the grid (was Re: Discharge load?)
>
>
> >
> > I'm starting to get nervous about this talk of feeding power back into
> > the grid.
> >
> > Are there rules governing this behavior? I have heard that solar PV
> > systems that are grid-tied can't be used during a power outage, for
> > fear of electrocuting some poor lineman who thinks the power is out.
> >
> > I know it's possible to do this and make your meter run backwards. I
> > have always assumed that you need specific safety equipment and the
> > agreement of the electric company.
> >
> > Am I off base here?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My EV was down for 2 months, I manually charged batteries during that
time with a sears 12V charger to keep them all above 12V. I only had to
do this once but it took the whole weekend just because there are 25
batteries.
I have started commuting to work starting last Friday, with a side trip
to the theater on Friday night. I had one battery that was low and, boy
oh boy did I screw up on the drive home and definitely reversed a cell
as the voltage was down to 6V and it was hot (these are excide orbitals)
I thought I had destroyed it, but managed to get it back (2amp limit on
pfc 20 overnight until above 10V then charge normally). ( Word of
warning, very hard to tell when driving if a battery is low/reversed
when you have a 288V nominal pack.)
That battery is .2V less than the surrounding batts but still comes up
to flashing the green LED on the reg along with the rest of the pack.
But It seems like all the batteries have really low capacity. It is only
7 miles to work for a total of 16 or 18 miles and the pack is quite
dead. It seems like it should be more range. In your guys experience,
how many cycles does it take to wake up orbitals? I am also not getting
to the blue light, but the regs are holding at 14.77V
I used to get 350Wh/mile. if 36ah*288 = 10Kwh and 80% is 8kwh, I should
get 23 miles. The e-meter says I use about 3.2kwh in 7 miles that is 450
wh/mile , hummm better check the brakes,tire-pressure and alignment!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We used to have blue neon tubes hidden inside each side of the grill shell.
They flooded the motor and controller with an eerie kryptonite green glow
because of the blue neon bouncing off the yellow firewall. It did look
rather awesome at night. I don't think we have any pictures of that.
Roderick Wilde
EV Parts, Inc.
www.evparts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Plut" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: Insane ideas! =)
Hi, Roy
This is the same EV i saw parked on the street one evening in port
townsend, WA, a few years ago. What attracted my attention was the EERIE
BLUE GLOW emanating from under the car! Neon, I think. You have to see it!
Do you know where there's a night shot of this car?
Ryan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: Insane ideas! =)
Alan Grimes wrote:
I wuz planing on switching to digest or even unsubscribing to cut back
on the volume I'm rx'ing, but then I came up with some really crazy
ideas that I'd like to share.
-- Electric hotrod roadster. ;) [snip]
You mean something like this one?-
http://www.evparts.com/about/index.php?show=roadster.ihtml
More shots here-
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/gallery01.htm
...
Roy LeMeur
NEDRA NW Regional Race Director
www.nedra.com
My EV and RE Project Pages-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
--
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Patrick and All,
Sounds like your friend might be just a little closed minded about
things. Let's try to give him real examples of how wrong he is, OK?
Patrick Clarke wrote:
Greetings all -
I am engaged in conversation with an individual who claims that the
EV1s range was reduced to only 12 miles in cold weather with heater
and lights on.
First things first. Let's take on the issue of cold weather reducing
range. Lead acid pack? Yes, it does reduce range, but the most
successful EV1s were the NiMH versions, and these batteries love cold.
The argument about cold temps reducing range are silly when it comes to
this chemistry type battery. Somehow, I doubt your friend has even a
slight clue about battery chemistry, though :-)
You might next, try educating him about electrical power, as it sounds
as if he has a poor grasp on this based on 'the lights' on comment. It
seems he thinks the lighting circuit in a car, which draws about 120
watts or so from the pack, draws energy similar to the electric
propulsion system that draws about 8000 watts during cruise. Many folks
are just plain ignorant about physics, math, and the way things
work...sounds like your friend is one of these types. I've heard the
'lights on' bit before, where the uneducated think that the addition of
running the lights is akin to doubling the draw on the EV's battery.
This of course, is silly. A fair comparison would be to ask an elephant
if it could possibly bear the weight of a fly that's landed on its back!
As to running the heater in the EV1, with its efficient heat pump
system, running the heater is only about an 8% hit in regards to
reducing rang per charge. With the NiMH pack that gives 140 miles range
per charge, this would reduce that range to about 130 miles... more than
10 times the range that your uninformed friend says it can go in cold
weather with the heat on...oh yeah, and with the lights on too, if you
even want to consider the tiny amount of power they consume.
This isn't true, is it?
Of course not.
If not, can anyone point me at any resources to definitively refute
this claim?
Sure, have him read my story 'Living in the Past, Getting Beat by the
Future!' all about my 4 days in an EV1:
http://www.portev.org/commentary/living_in_the_past.htm
Though I really hope you can get him to read the entire story, here's an
excerpt:
I nudged the speed up to 70-72 mph to keep up with the traffic flow...If
this had been a lead acid powered machine, I would have been worried
about reduced range due to cold batteries, but I was comforted knowing
that those NiMH guys would be happy campers in the cold....the cabin was
fogging up and it was a bit chilly, so as planned, I turned the
heater/defroster on...the heat pump got going....After an hour of
continuous 70+ mph freeway cruising that included quite a bit of hill
climbing...and with the heat pump using juice the entire time, and with
the car's multitude of fans, pumps, and lights all getting in on the
current gig, the range meter still showed 79 miles left, this, after
having gone more than 70 miles...at close to 9:00 PM, and after an hour
and forty five minutes of continuous driving...I had traveled 85 miles
while running all the lighting and heating for all that time, without
the car breaking a sweat!
Here's another:
At almost exactly 110 miles...I had pulled off the freeway and was
stopped at a traffic light. The EV1 had been flying along for about an
hour and a half at 70-80 mph speeds, and had never once felt like it was
running short on power. I noticed that there was an estimated 36 miles
left on the range meter, so when the light went green, I decided to see
what was left as I planted my right foot down one last
time.....screeeeechhhh....,chirp-chirp.....scrreeechh...What an EV!
After running along at freeway speeds for so long, and after 110 miles,
the thing could still fry the tires at will!...29% battery left...one
terrific electric car!
Of course, this individual also considers WKtEC to be a wild
conspiracy theory movie and that GM tried everything in their power to
create a successful EV and simply failed,
Geesh! Has he even 'seen' the movie?
only a below-average car
Let's see....
(1) While most all autos on the road were made of standard fare stamped
steel construction, the EV1 used aluminum, magnesium, composites, and
special construction techniques...yeah, that sounds below average to me!
(2) At the time, its 7.4 -7.9 second road tested 0-60 was quicker than
most all regular cars, quicker than many sports cars, and nearly as
quick as the high performance cars of the mid to late 90's
period...yeah, that sounds below average to me!
(3) Its mpg equivalent was in the 135 mpg range where gutless economy
cars were only getting 35 mpg and cars with equivalent performance were
getting 15-20 mpg...yeah, that sounds below average to me!
(4) It's areo drag was a world's best of .19 cd...where most all other
cars on the road at the time were in the .34-.39 range (lower is
better)....yeah, that sounds below average to me!
(5) It was able to achieve the above and yet, emit zero emissions...the
only car sold by a major manufacturer on the planet able to do
so...yeah, that sounds below average to me!
(6) It never needed any spark plugs, any filters, any belts, any hoses,
any exhaust system parts, or any gas or oil...yeah, that sounds below
average to me!
(7) It was independent from foreign oil because it could get its energy
from American generated electrons available from renewable hydroelectric
generation, wind generation, photovotaic generation, and other
types...yeah, that sounds below average to me!
>held in low regard.
Is that why car magazines raved about the car? Is that why the leasees
all raved about them?
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Bob,
I mostly agree with you, but it is possible that you could energize a
segment - say a tree takes down your local HV line and you're the only
house on your step-down transformer (very common in rural areas) - you
could easily backfeed through your step-down transformer and create a
nice 17kV surprise for the lineman - though it's not as if they just go
up and grab lines without checking.
--
Martin K
Bob Rice wrote:
Hi All;
All this grid link stuff got me to add a few comments. If the grid goes
down, chances are that YOUR wimpy home made setup will just overload out
TRYING to pick up the "islanded" grid, anyhow. To a home power guy it would
be a near short circuit, anyhow. SO you would quickly remember to open yur
circuit breaker, when TRYING to get the lites back on. For you guyz with
Diseasel Locomotive size 3000 HP setups this may not apply? But here in CT
the flyers that the electric Co sends out, they warn ya NOT to feed back
into the line. So they are aware that SOMEBODY does, or COULD." Have a
licensed 'lectrician install your genny" in so many words.Yeah ,I can see
half of CT lit on my Briggs an Scrapiron powered genny<g>! Line men,
nowadaze go by" If it isn't grounded it isn't Dead" They EVen have those
stickers all over their line trux. Good EV bumper stickers? Along with
Metro North RR's ' Watch the Gap" they stick on EVERY train door. DUH! Their
has been a GAP between train doors and the platform since Christ was a kid,
but ya have to keep TELLING people?!
My too watts worth.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, Aug 09, 2006 at 11:50:16AM -0700, Nick Austin wrote:
> On Wed, Aug 09, 2006 at 10:47:41AM -0700, Patrick Clarke wrote:
> > Greetings all -
> >
> > I am engaged in conversation with an individual who claims that the EV1s
> > range was reduced to only 12 miles in cold weather with heater and
> > lights on.
>
> 1997 EV1 PbA Urban Range Test, Max Payload, A/C on High, Headlights on Low,
> Radio On is 72.6 miles.
>
> 1997 EV1 PbA Freeway Range Test, Max Payload, A/C on High, Headlights on Low,
> Radio On is 91.8 miles.
>
> Seems like it would be hard to get the EV1 range all the way down to 12 miles.
I guess it really depends on the temperature. If it was cold enough to crack the
tires, you might be able to go 12 miles on just the rims.
Be well,
Zack
>
> You can read the report here:
> http://avt.inel.gov/pdf/fsev/sce_sum/2000panpbaev1sum.pdf
>
--
Zack Brown
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I like the idea, but I know many people on the list wouldn't agree :)
It might be pretty hard to get to work correctly since you're going to
have a pretty heavy Corvette (batteries and whatnot) powered by an 80
HP(?) engine.. but that's where the hybrid part comes in. Front wheels =
engine, back wheels = electric?
I doubt a road-coupled hybrid would be the best way to charge the
batteries back up so you might want to think about having a generator
head on the engine - adding another 100lbs.
I like the idea. I don't know where I'll be in 5 years but I know I want
to build an EV or hybrid as soon as my situation permits.
--
Martin K
Jack Murray wrote:
I have this Aspire was going to play with, but I think I've decided to
build something real instead,
and the latest idea is to convert a '91 Corvette into an electric
hybrid. Take the 1.3L motor from the aspire and put it into the
corvette, along with a couple 8" motors and a lot of batteries. Make
it scream on the electric, but run on the highway with the itty 1.3L.
Then I could claim 50mph or better and yet be super fast in the 1/4
mile and high top-speed.
Am I insane? Would you buy it for $20K?
Jack
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Use a collet over the drill, You can get short ones with a grub type screw
to fasten to the drill, Or just use a piece of tubeing over the drill to
limit depth.
Regards
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Christopher Zach
> Sent: Thursday, 10 August 2006 2:41 p.m.
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Drill the motor
>
>
> Well, I now know that the motor encoder is the source of the truck
> problems. Unfortunately the genius who built this car took apart a
> standard HP encoder and drilled the alignment holes such that
> you have
> to take the whole thing apart and install it bare instead of
> using the
> case's mounting ears.
>
> Totally stupid. And totally unlike every other Hughes Dolphin
> install I
> have seen.
>
> So I have two choices: Either I can drill holes in the new
> encoder, or I
> can drill out new mounting holes in the motor.
>
> Motor casing is AL; I guess if I punch through I wreck it. I
> have drills
> and collets; what would you do?
>
> Chris
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here's something similar.
http://www.suckamps.com/images/build_team_vehicles/NeonBuggyGlowingL.jpg
Ryan G. Plut
"Common sense is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it" - G.
Bernard Shaw
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: Insane ideas! =)
We used to have blue neon tubes hidden inside each side of the grill
shell. They flooded the motor and controller with an eerie kryptonite
green glow because of the blue neon bouncing off the yellow firewall. It
did look rather awesome at night. I don't think we have any pictures of
that.
Roderick Wilde
EV Parts, Inc.
www.evparts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Plut" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: Insane ideas! =)
Hi, Roy
This is the same EV i saw parked on the street one evening in port
townsend, WA, a few years ago. What attracted my attention was the EERIE
BLUE GLOW emanating from under the car! Neon, I think. You have to see
it! Do you know where there's a night shot of this car?
Ryan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: Insane ideas! =)
Alan Grimes wrote:
I wuz planing on switching to digest or even unsubscribing to cut back
on the volume I'm rx'ing, but then I came up with some really crazy
ideas that I'd like to share.
-- Electric hotrod roadster. ;) [snip]
You mean something like this one?-
http://www.evparts.com/about/index.php?show=roadster.ihtml
More shots here-
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/gallery01.htm
...
Roy LeMeur
NEDRA NW Regional Race Director
www.nedra.com
My EV and RE Project Pages-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
--
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I wanted to see how much I'm spending on my ICE car. Here's a spreadsheet that
totals it up. I've driven 60k so far in my Chrysler Concorde. I'm starting my
mileage count from 2007 instaed of adding the 60,000 miles to it up front. Also
the maintenance column is based on what I've actually spent on the car, carried
forward, but doesn't include the $1,200 I just dropped on A/C and tranny work.
Of course, the $/gal could (will) go up faster than inflation.
I haven't totalled up the initial and ongoing costs of an EV yet. That comes
later. But I like to think how much I WILL NOT be spending on gas and oil as I
build my EV :-D
60000
miles total
9523.8
Miles per year
22.7
MPG
Year
Cost of Gas per Gallon*
Miles per year
Cum. MPY
Cost of Gas per Year
Cost of Maintenence*
Cum. Cost per Year
2007
$ 3.00
9523.81
9523.81
$ 1,258.65
$ 400.00
$ 1,658.65
2008
$ 3.12
9523.81
19047.62
$ 1,309.00
$ 416.00
$ 3,383.65
2009
$ 3.24
9523.81
28571.43
$ 1,361.36
$ 432.64
$ 5,177.65
2010
$ 3.37
9523.81
38095.24
$ 1,415.81
$ 449.95
$ 7,043.41
2011
$ 3.51
9523.81
47619.05
$ 1,472.45
$ 467.94
$ 8,983.80
2012
$ 3.65
9523.81
57142.86
$ 1,531.34
$ 486.66
$ 11,001.81
2013
$ 3.80
9523.81
66666.67
$ 1,592.60
$ 506.13
$ 13,100.53
2014
$ 3.95
9523.81
76190.48
$ 1,656.30
$ 526.37
$ 15,283.21
2015
$ 4.11
9523.81
85714.29
$ 1,722.55
$ 547.43
$ 17,553.19
2016
$ 4.27
9523.81
95238.10
$ 1,791.46
$ 569.32
$ 19,913.97
2017
$ 4.44
9523.81
104761.90
$ 1,863.11
$ 592.10
$ 22,369.18
2018
$ 4.62
9523.81
114285.71
$ 1,937.64
$ 615.78
$ 24,922.60
2019
$ 4.80
9523.81
123809.52
$ 2,015.14
$ 640.41
$ 27,578.16
2020
$ 5.00
9523.81
133333.33
$ 2,095.75
$ 666.03
$ 30,339.94
2021
$ 5.20
9523.81
142857.14
$ 2,179.58
$ 692.67
$ 33,212.19
2022
$ 5.40
9523.81
152380.95
$ 2,266.76
$ 720.38
$ 36,199.33
2023
$ 5.62
9523.81
161904.76
$ 2,357.43
$ 749.19
$ 39,305.96
2024
$ 5.84
9523.81
171428.57
$ 2,451.73
$ 779.16
$ 42,536.85
2025
$ 6.08
9523.81
180952.38
$ 2,549.80
$ 810.33
$ 45,896.97
2026
$ 6.32
9523.81
190476.19
$ 2,651.79
$ 842.74
$ 49,391.51
2027
$ 6.57
9523.81
200000.00
$ 2,757.86
$ 876.45
$ 53,025.82
2028
$ 6.84
9523.81
209523.81
$ 2,868.18
$ 911.51
$ 56,805.51
2029
$ 7.11
9523.81
219047.62
$ 2,982.91
$ 947.97
$ 60,736.38
* Increase of 4%/Yr for inflation shown
Ryan G. Plut
"Common sense is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it" - G.
Bernard Shaw
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: EV1: 12 mile range?
> Hello Patrick and All,
>
> Sounds like your friend might be just a little closed minded about
> things. Let's try to give him real examples of how wrong he is, OK?
>
> Patrick Clarke wrote:
>
> > Greetings all -
> >
> > I am engaged in conversation with an individual who claims that the
> > EV1s range was reduced to only 12 miles in cold weather with heater
> > and lights on.
> Hell, My Rabbit would go more than 12 miles in bitter cold weather, EVen
with the heater on, I tried it. But the cold weather knocked the shit out of
my range. I coulda styrofomed the batrteruy boxes, but then they would
overheat in our Global Warming tropical weather CT gets in the summer!Seems
EV-1 had more heat issues than cold?
My two miles worth
Bob
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob,
I googled the "Red Beastie" & it looks (looked) really good. What was the
recharge time on this configuration?
To answer your question, no mountains where I live just a few hills. The
steepest sustained climb is about 1:65 for about 1.5 miles.
I'm still trying to get more info on the Zebra battery from the UK supplier
but no response yet. It seems like the home converter doesn't register on
their radar.
The specs of the Zebra look good. Their smallest battery configuration is a
20 kWh battery and is about 50% size & weight if the lead acid equivalent.
One battery pack will do the job & there is a lot of independent papers on
the internet to show that it is good for an EV and should give about a 80 -
100 mile range. It's chief disadvantage is that it has an operating
temperature of 270º C (518º F). It keeps this temperature through insulation
but if left standing will use about 14% per day in maintaining the operating
temperature. I can live with that because I will use it daily (NiMH also has
a high self discharge rate).
I suspect the Zebra (if they get back to me) will blow me away on price.
Cheers...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: questions from a newbie
Hi Ron an' EVerybody;
I guess you are closer to the source of the Zebra battery? You are a
quick train ride through the Chunnel, to France where more EV stuff is
going
on?EVen being able to buy an EV, and driving it back to UK.If you are
ambitious enougfh you could build a "Red Beastie", Type of pickup. THE RB
toted 40 golf cart T 105's in the bed and forward engine room! Was pretty
much maxed out as a truk, but was good for towing or a reliable 100 mile
range. Unfortunately it died in Tony's fire that DESTROYED his EV Juice
Bar
and Motorcycle haven.Hey J Wayland! I have the salvaged tailgate, to bring
out to PDX, complete with scorch marks! The Motor- tranny lived, too, it's
in my van, too. It seemed a shame to torch the chassis as I think you
coulda
put a car body or another truck on it?Made a Black Beastie Bear , sports
car?A page from UNiversity of Maine. They used an S-10 chassis, for
theirs.
But, Ron, you arent alone. Their are other guyz in the UK into EV's,
some
are active List members, too. Check them out, as they are on the roads and
Motorways, already. Yeah, we need more "Motorways" here, only cars with
MOTORS, no ICE's I think what ya have in mind is very do able. How many
mountains ya gota drive over to get home? The OTHER ruling facter.
Seeya
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I sent a generic inquiry to them a couple of days ago and haven't heard
anything yet. Will let you know if I hear anything useful.
BTW, how do you measure an incline? I was thinking of "charting" my daily
commute, but haven't the foggiest how to do this.
Matt
On 8/10/06, Ron Reid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Bob,
I googled the "Red Beastie" & it looks (looked) really good. What was the
recharge time on this configuration?
To answer your question, no mountains where I live just a few hills. The
steepest sustained climb is about 1:65 for about 1.5 miles.
I'm still trying to get more info on the Zebra battery from the UK
supplier
but no response yet. It seems like the home converter doesn't register on
their radar.
The specs of the Zebra look good. Their smallest battery configuration is
a
20 kWh battery and is about 50% size & weight if the lead acid equivalent.
One battery pack will do the job & there is a lot of independent papers on
the internet to show that it is good for an EV and should give about a 80
-
100 mile range. It's chief disadvantage is that it has an operating
temperature of 270º C (518º F). It keeps this temperature through
insulation
but if left standing will use about 14% per day in maintaining the
operating
temperature. I can live with that because I will use it daily (NiMH also
has
a high self discharge rate).
I suspect the Zebra (if they get back to me) will blow me away on price.
Cheers...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: questions from a newbie
>> Hi Ron an' EVerybody;
>
> I guess you are closer to the source of the Zebra battery? You are a
> quick train ride through the Chunnel, to France where more EV stuff is
> going
> on?EVen being able to buy an EV, and driving it back to UK.If you are
> ambitious enougfh you could build a "Red Beastie", Type of pickup. THE
RB
> toted 40 golf cart T 105's in the bed and forward engine room! Was
pretty
> much maxed out as a truk, but was good for towing or a reliable 100 mile
> range. Unfortunately it died in Tony's fire that DESTROYED his EV Juice
> Bar
> and Motorcycle haven.Hey J Wayland! I have the salvaged tailgate, to
bring
> out to PDX, complete with scorch marks! The Motor- tranny lived, too,
it's
> in my van, too. It seemed a shame to torch the chassis as I think you
> coulda
> put a car body or another truck on it?Made a Black Beastie Bear , sports
> car?A page from UNiversity of Maine. They used an S-10 chassis, for
> theirs.
>
> But, Ron, you arent alone. Their are other guyz in the UK into EV's,
> some
> are active List members, too. Check them out, as they are on the roads
and
> Motorways, already. Yeah, we need more "Motorways" here, only cars with
> MOTORS, no ICE's I think what ya have in mind is very do able. How many
> mountains ya gota drive over to get home? The OTHER ruling facter.
>
> Seeya
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Matt,
I measured using an OS 1:25000 map of my route. These maps have the contours
are marked in 5m intervals to give your vertical climb. A ruler & a bit of
maths on the steepest & longest hill gives a close enough estimate (or
transfer the scale marked on the bottom of the map to a piece of paper to
measure your distance - that way you don't need to convert the ruler 1:1
scale to map scale)
Sounds like you are a UK resident as well? Perhaps Zebra's non-response is
due to the August silly season. If there is enough of us interested in the
batteries perhaps we can make a collective approach. Anyone else from the UK
out there?
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Kenigson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: questions from a newbie
I sent a generic inquiry to them a couple of days ago and haven't heard
anything yet. Will let you know if I hear anything useful.
BTW, how do you measure an incline? I was thinking of "charting" my daily
commute, but haven't the foggiest how to do this.
Matt
On 8/10/06, Ron Reid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Bob,
I googled the "Red Beastie" & it looks (looked) really good. What was the
recharge time on this configuration?
To answer your question, no mountains where I live just a few hills. The
steepest sustained climb is about 1:65 for about 1.5 miles.
I'm still trying to get more info on the Zebra battery from the UK
supplier
but no response yet. It seems like the home converter doesn't register on
their radar.
The specs of the Zebra look good. Their smallest battery configuration is
a
20 kWh battery and is about 50% size & weight if the lead acid
equivalent.
One battery pack will do the job & there is a lot of independent papers
on
the internet to show that it is good for an EV and should give about a 80
-
100 mile range. It's chief disadvantage is that it has an operating
temperature of 270º C (518º F). It keeps this temperature through
insulation
but if left standing will use about 14% per day in maintaining the
operating
temperature. I can live with that because I will use it daily (NiMH also
has
a high self discharge rate).
I suspect the Zebra (if they get back to me) will blow me away on price.
Cheers...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: questions from a newbie
>> Hi Ron an' EVerybody;
>
> I guess you are closer to the source of the Zebra battery? You are a
> quick train ride through the Chunnel, to France where more EV stuff is
> going
> on?EVen being able to buy an EV, and driving it back to UK.If you are
> ambitious enougfh you could build a "Red Beastie", Type of pickup. THE
RB
> toted 40 golf cart T 105's in the bed and forward engine room! Was
pretty
> much maxed out as a truk, but was good for towing or a reliable 100
> mile
> range. Unfortunately it died in Tony's fire that DESTROYED his EV Juice
> Bar
> and Motorcycle haven.Hey J Wayland! I have the salvaged tailgate, to
bring
> out to PDX, complete with scorch marks! The Motor- tranny lived, too,
it's
> in my van, too. It seemed a shame to torch the chassis as I think you
> coulda
> put a car body or another truck on it?Made a Black Beastie Bear ,
> sports
> car?A page from UNiversity of Maine. They used an S-10 chassis, for
> theirs.
>
> But, Ron, you arent alone. Their are other guyz in the UK into EV's,
> some
> are active List members, too. Check them out, as they are on the roads
and
> Motorways, already. Yeah, we need more "Motorways" here, only cars with
> MOTORS, no ICE's I think what ya have in mind is very do able. How many
> mountains ya gota drive over to get home? The OTHER ruling facter.
>
> Seeya
>
--- End Message ---
