EV Digest 5755

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: No dc-dc converters - Need parts?
        by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
        by "Matt Kenigson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
        by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Two low dollar EV's on e-bay
        by Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: Last uninformed question (re: battery specs)...
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Last uninformed question (re: battery specs)...
        by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: Contactor Last Off
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: IGBTs and DC controllers
        by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) battery trailer
        by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
        by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) RE: Fiberglass box questions
        by "David Sherritze" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: IGBTs and DC controllers
        by Joe Vitek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Prestolite MTA 4001 (48V) vs. MTC4001 (96V)
        by "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) lithium battery concerns
        by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: battery trailer
        by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Special Vermont Showings of "Who Killed the Electric Car?"
        by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: Electric Pony Express for my motor
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) re: Mitsubishi Eclipse Conversion
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: Electric Pony Express for my motor
        by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) RE: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: Electric Pony Express for my motor. Motor haulin'
        by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: Last uninformed question (re: battery specs)...
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: Electric Pony Express for my motor
        by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) RE: Netgain Warp 8" availability?
        by "Jody Dewey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) bolt pattern info - Blazer
        by Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Martin,
This is a project I wanted to take on, but I spend
most free time with my 9, 12 and 18 year old kids
these days (including other toys like boats, kayaks
and peddle boats :).  You probably already have many
of the parts picked out, but remember that coffee can
of blown IGBT's?  I can supply some parts for
experimenting, just remember me when you get it
working.
I also have electrolytic caps and many other
components sitting around waiting for abuse.
Just send me an email describing what you need.
Rod

--- Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Jeff,
> I'm working on a DC-DC that takes 120v - 450v and
> outputs 13.8v @ 1kW
> It won't be ready for a few months. I hope there's a
> market for a few 
> when I get the design finalized.
> --
> Martin K
> 
> Jeff Shanab wrote:
> > Dc-Dc converters for the higher voltage packs are
> ominously missing from
> > all web sites that sell ev stuff except
> metricmind.
> >
> > What gives?  we need an Otmar or Rich for dc-dc's
> !
> >
> >        Universal input 72-450V ? Or a few
> models(48V-96V) (80-200) (100-400)
> >        13.8V out
> >        sleep mode
> >        key input
> >        waterproof
> >        50Amps
> >
> > Is this bringing back the DCP?
> >
> > Signed Desperate EV'er  in Fresno,ca
> >   
> >
> >   
> 
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Putting more content on YouTube and other sites is a great idea, but be
aware that if you put content on there to which you own copyright, you are
essentially giving up your exclusive rights to the material.  If someone
else uploads your video you still have rights (your video will be out there
on the net but you retain all of your rights), but their terms of service
make it so that if the rights-holder puts their content on there, they are
giving up their exclusive rights to reproduce.

You can read more about this at:

http://www.pbs.org/cringely/pulpit/pulpit20060727.html

Matt

On 8/14/06, Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

How come she put her hand on the Manzitamicro charger
when she said "the brains" ???

Did anyone notice that?

Lock Hughes wrote:

> Good man!
>
> Great vid, BTW. Had to (finally) join YouTube just to vote <grin>
>
> And "1 Honour" already for your vid. (If you click on the "Honours"
> bit, right now if says "#98 - Top Favorites (Today) - Autos &
> Vehicles")
>
> So yer Top 100 material! Interesting too, to see the Playlist that
> YouTube displays that's "related" to your vid.
>
> Tks
> Lock
> Toronto
> Human/Electric hybrid
>
> --- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>Just added the report the local ABC news team did on my Electrabishi
>>truck last week.
>>
>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyV9qQleBDI
>>
>>Looks like there is a growing number of news reports contradicting
>>the Ford Eviro lady's claim that there is no market for E- cars
>>and that hydorgen is the wave of the futre. How many hydrogen cars
>>did you pass on the way to work today?  How many hydrogen
>>re-fueling stations did you see today?
>>
>>Just got finished with the Alaska Renewable Energy Fair today. (full
>>report to follow in separate thread).  After EVeryone got
>>done looking at the Hybrids and flex- fuels and they came and checked
>>out the electric and heard some cold hard facts, they asked
>>"Why can't I buy one of these?"  Now they're hooked, referred them to
>>WKtEC starting next week. :-)
>>
>>Mike,
>>Anchorage, Ak.
>>
>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>Behalf Of Lock Hughes
>>>Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 12:34 PM
>>>To: [email protected]
>>>Subject: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
>>>Caught a comment recently on the evdl... someone reporting climbing
>>>hit counts to their EV web site. Perhaps a credit to WKtEC and gas
>>>prices in NA.
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Errrr... thanks Matt. I was only thinking of things "higher" than
rights.

Lock
Toronto
Human/Electric hybrid

--- Matt Kenigson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Putting more content on YouTube and other sites is a great idea, but
> be
> aware that if you put content on there to which you own copyright,
> you are
> essentially giving up your exclusive rights to the material.  If
> someone
> else uploads your video you still have rights (your video will be out
> there
> on the net but you retain all of your rights), but their terms of
> service
> make it so that if the rights-holder puts their content on there,
> they are
> giving up their exclusive rights to reproduce.
> 
> You can read more about this at:
> 
> http://www.pbs.org/cringely/pulpit/pulpit20060727.html
> 
> Matt
> 
> On 8/14/06, Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > How come she put her hand on the Manzitamicro charger
> > when she said "the brains" ???
> >
> > Did anyone notice that?
> >
> > Lock Hughes wrote:
> >
> > > Good man!
> > >
> > > Great vid, BTW. Had to (finally) join YouTube just to vote <grin>
> > >
> > > And "1 Honour" already for your vid. (If you click on the
> "Honours"
> > > bit, right now if says "#98 - Top Favorites (Today) - Autos &
> > > Vehicles")
> > >
> > > So yer Top 100 material! Interesting too, to see the Playlist
> that
> > > YouTube displays that's "related" to your vid.
> > >
> > > Tks
> > > Lock
> > > Toronto
> > > Human/Electric hybrid
> > >
> > > --- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >
> > >>Just added the report the local ABC news team did on my
> Electrabishi
> > >>truck last week.
> > >>
> > >>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyV9qQleBDI
> > >>
> > >>Looks like there is a growing number of news reports
> contradicting
> > >>the Ford Eviro lady's claim that there is no market for E- cars
> > >>and that hydorgen is the wave of the futre. How many hydrogen
> cars
> > >>did you pass on the way to work today?  How many hydrogen
> > >>re-fueling stations did you see today?
> > >>
> > >>Just got finished with the Alaska Renewable Energy Fair today.
> (full
> > >>report to follow in separate thread).  After EVeryone got
> > >>done looking at the Hybrids and flex- fuels and they came and
> checked
> > >>out the electric and heard some cold hard facts, they asked
> > >>"Why can't I buy one of these?"  Now they're hooked, referred
> them to
> > >>WKtEC starting next week. :-)
> > >>
> > >>Mike,
> > >>Anchorage, Ak.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
BRADLEY GT unfinished kit car..electric vehicle parts   Item number: 
130015648664
   
  Not sure what is going on with this make shift hybrid.
   
   
   
  1961  Other Makes : daf 600 luxe Item number: 110019497969 
   
  I got some pictures from the guy selling the daf 600.  It does appear to have 
all the EV components still there.  Where would you ever get oarts for the 
chasis?


  Both could be bought on the cheap if you are so inclined.
   
   
   
  Steve

                
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low  PC-to-Phone call rates.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Plumer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 12:49 PM
Subject: Last uninformed question (re: battery specs)...


> Just so I am clear when I finalize my wish list for batteries and can come
> up with a good
> budget I want to make sure I understand the C ratings on batteries.
>
> A C/20 rating is the number of amps that can be drawn from a fully charged
> battery for
> 20 hours.  So if it is a C/20 rating of 50 Ah  could pull 50 amps for
> (approx) 20 hours
> before the battery is completely discharged (I know it's not recommended 
> for
> battery
> life).

A 50 AH battery is rated at a 20 hr discharge  or 50/20 = 2.5 amps per hour

Therefore a battery rated at 50 AH can deliver 2.5 amps for 20 hours hours 
(2.5 x 20 = 50 amp-hrs)

Actual battery capacity decreases as discharge current increases.  This 50 
AH battery may deliver 10 amperes for 4 hours, resulting in an actural 
capacity of 40 ampere-hours.

When shopping for a deep cycle battery, you want to look under the Reserve 
Capacity @ 75 amps in the dealers battery spec sheet.  75 amps is closer to 
the ampere that a EV uses.

Under the [EMAIL PROTECTED] Amp column go down to the batteries that are listed 
and 
you will note that's how many minutes you can run at 75 amps until the 
battery is discharge down to about 10% state of charge.

It is best to stay above 50% state of charge which will make your batteries 
last longer.

I am running a 260 AH battery that is rated at 145 minutes at 75 amps. 
Going about 30 mph at 75 amps I can go little over 36 miles in 72 minutes 
which will be about 50% discharge.

If I went 90 mph, I will be down to 10% in about 15 miles.

A motor running at 100 amps will draw down a 50 AH battery in 30 minutes.

To be able to have a motor running at 100 amps for 10 hours would require a 
100 x 10 = 1000 ampere-hour battery.

Roland





>
> So, if I have a motor that pulls an average of 100 amps it should be able 
> to
> run for
> (approx) 10 hours to full discharge.  Is that correct?  Obviously load and
> driving conditions
> will affect actual usage, but this is in a perfect world.  ;)
>
> Thanks, and I do appreciate all your pointers.  I look forward to 
> assembling
> my EV and
> using it as a daily driver.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
> http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Are you saying that that you not use more than 25 amps of a 50 amp hour lead-acid battery? If so, that really changes the cost equation!

This really leads me to using NiCD or NiMH in the jet ski, since these batteries, NiCD in particular, can take a lot of abuse. The NiCad batteries can be run down to empty and can handle big discharge and charge rates.

Well, no response on whether I can use pressure to make contacts between D cells, got a bunch on order, I'll be trying it and see how well it works.

Jack

>> Also remember the DOD costs to the life-cycle of your battery banks. >> All lead-acid-based batteries will live longer if they are not fully >> discharged. Many people try to make their banks last longer by never >> going below 50% DOD. Some fanatical people keep their DOD to 20% or >> so, charging their banks after mild use (and making their batteries >> last for a decade or more).
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Bill,

Normally the negative contactor, which is a safety contactor in my EV stays 
on all the time until I turn off the ignition circuit.

To go in reversed, it is uncommon to turn off the ignition circuit and to go 
in reversed.  I would rework the circuit, so you do have to turn off the 
ignition switch to go into reversed.

Yes, you shouldn't produce much arcing in the negative contactor unless you 
are not letting up on the accelerator while you are turning off the ignition 
switch.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 7:54 AM
Subject: Contactor Last Off


> I've put two contactors in my EV, on the positive and negative lines,
> respectively, with a precharge bulb across the positive contactor.  The
> startup sequence is as follows:
>
> 1)  Negative contactor closes
> 2)  This causes a relay to close which turns on the bulb
> 3)  Bulb relay stays on while driving and positive contactor opens/closes
>
> That's fine for startup, but in the reverse sequence, when I'm turning the
> car off, the I realized that the negative contactor will open before the
> precharge relay opens.  Will this causes any damage (arcing, etc.) to the
> negative contactor?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe Vitek wrote:

>What are the typical IGBTs used in monster DC motor controllers? I am just 
>curious how
>much they cost to build something that will handle 2000 amps for short bursts.
>
>--
>joe
>
>  
>
Several hundred for the IGBT and diode modules.
Each time you blow them up ;-)

--
Martin K

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Peoples,

I am getting pretty desperate. I am about to stat my new job which is around 25-30 km's from my place. Most of it on the freeway. I am able to drive at 90 km/hr.

At the moment, my vehicle will prob get 15-20 km's. There was a few options to my range crisis. Either spend about $300 for two more SCS225 to upgrade to 96 volts which includes spending about 1200 for a 2nd hand curtis controller and possibly a new DC DC whcih would prob work out to be $2000,

or go another 12 volt battery to give it 84 volts enabling me to use 3 rd on freeway and cu the current down to around 60-70 amps cruising. Still not enough energy in the battery pack to get me to work.

or tow a little trailer of smaller capacity batteries or larger batteries (depending on your responses) and keeping my voltage at 72 volts nom. This way i don't need to buy another controller DC DC or any other instrumentation. prob cost around 1000.

There is simply no room in my vehicle to add mroe batteries. The vehicle can only carry around 4 kwh of batts. Then it gets too heavy and exceeds the GVM as well as intruding in my drivers space :-)

I don't want a pusher type trailer just a small motorbike trailer of batteries for those long distance trips. My van chews up too much fuel so i can't afford to fill up 50 bux or more per week to travel 300 km's per week.

Cheers

_________________________________________________________________
realestate.com.au: the biggest address in property http://ninemsn.realestate.com.au
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I do not own any rights to the video that I submitted.  I shared it with 
permission from the News Office.  I cannot legally tranfer rights to YouTube 
that I do not have, even if I agree to do so.  If they want to start selling 
rebroadcasts of newscasts I think they would have bigger fish knocking at their 
door.  Newscasts however are freely obtainable anyway and usually are menat for 
people to watch freely.  If someone wants to buy a compilation of news clips 
that they could otherwise obtain freely right from the news channel's website, 
its their money.   I cannot re-print old newspapers and sell them.  But I can 
collect up all the old newspapers I find on the street and sell to whoever will 
buy them. I can also cut them up to make art and sell them that way.

As far as the EV promotions, I believe the newscasts are fairly safe from abuse 
unless the newsrooms themselves send them to YouTube and agree to their terms.  
The most potential for abuse I see is the kids sending in risque videos of 
themselves and having it mangled into some embarassing videos.  Then again if 
the individual in the video didn't actually give it  to YouTube, they have no 
more rights to the material than the person who did.  So, if they are smart 
they will continue just hosting the free showing of the videos and raking in 
the money from the advertising, as long as it lasts.

Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.

----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Kenigson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, August 14, 2006 3:28 pm
Subject: Re: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
To: [email protected]

> Putting more content on YouTube and other sites is a great idea, 
> but be
> aware that if you put content on there to which you own copyright, 
> you are
> essentially giving up your exclusive rights to the material.  If 
> someoneelse uploads your video you still have rights (your video 
> will be out there
> on the net but you retain all of your rights), but their terms of 
> servicemake it so that if the rights-holder puts their content on 
> there, they are
> giving up their exclusive rights to reproduce.
> 
> You can read more about this at:
> 
> http://www.pbs.org/cringely/pulpit/pulpit20060727.html
> 
> Matt
> 
> On 8/14/06, Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > How come she put her hand on the Manzitamicro charger
> > when she said "the brains" ???
> >
> > Did anyone notice that?
> >
> > Lock Hughes wrote:
> >
> > > Good man!
> > >
> > > Great vid, BTW. Had to (finally) join YouTube just to vote <grin>
> > >
> > > And "1 Honour" already for your vid. (If you click on the 
> "Honours"> > bit, right now if says "#98 - Top Favorites (Today) - 
> Autos &
> > > Vehicles")
> > >
> > > So yer Top 100 material! Interesting too, to see the Playlist that
> > > YouTube displays that's "related" to your vid.
> > >
> > > Tks
> > > Lock
> > > Toronto
> > > Human/Electric hybrid
> > >
> > > --- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >
> > >>Just added the report the local ABC news team did on my 
> Electrabishi> >>truck last week.
> > >>
> > >>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyV9qQleBDI
> > >>
> > >>Looks like there is a growing number of news reports contradicting
> > >>the Ford Eviro lady's claim that there is no market for E- cars
> > >>and that hydorgen is the wave of the futre. How many hydrogen cars
> > >>did you pass on the way to work today?  How many hydrogen
> > >>re-fueling stations did you see today?
> > >>
> > >>Just got finished with the Alaska Renewable Energy Fair today. 
> (full> >>report to follow in separate thread).  After EVeryone got
> > >>done looking at the Hybrids and flex- fuels and they came and 
> checked> >>out the electric and heard some cold hard facts, they asked
> > >>"Why can't I buy one of these?"  Now they're hooked, referred 
> them to
> > >>WKtEC starting next week. :-)
> > >>
> > >>Mike,
> > >>Anchorage, Ak.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>-----Original Message-----
> > >>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >>>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >>>Behalf Of Lock Hughes
> > >>>Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 12:34 PM
> > >>>To: [email protected]
> > >>>Subject: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
> > >>>Caught a comment recently on the evdl... someone reporting 
> climbing> >>>hit counts to their EV web site. Perhaps a credit to 
> WKtEC and gas
> > >>>prices in NA.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> 
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a friend who works with fiberglass for a living and he has a 20 foot
gooseneck trailer for hauling motorcycles made almost exclusively of
fiberglass.

The hitch, springs and axles are metal the rest is fiberglass laid over
cardboard.

He tells me the cardboard initially keeps the shape and multiple layers of
fiberglass are strong enough to do the rest.

Just thoughts

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 5:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Fiberglass box questions


I built my battery box out of 1/4 inch fiberglass sheets, that was lay out
with a very fine mesh on one side and laying larger weaves until it was 1/4
inch thick.

You can do this your self by lay these sheets on a smooth 4 foot by 8 foot
piece of metal.

                 or it would be cheaper to:

If you have a source to a fiberglass company as I did, they will make up any
size sheets you want.  You can cut and hole saw them to fit.  I also pick up
some 2 by 2 inch fiberglass angle to finish the top edge so the cover will
have a flat area to seal.

Also they will tell you how to apply different layers of fiber glass tape,
which I applied on the outside corners, which is many layers that overlap up
to 1/2 inch.

The inside surfaces which was very smooth by having them gelcoating the
surfaces, I just had to applied fiberglass gel into a the inside corners to
fill a 1/8 inch crack.  The press in a smooth aluminum angle which was wipe
down with a grease, which gives the inside corners a nice sharp angle, and
than remove the angle by sliding it out.

I than finish the inside of the battery box with the same thick expoxy
coating you can get in a sink and tub finishing kits you can get from any
hardward store.

I also install four large fiberglass 4 inch by 4 inch by 1/4 inch angles,
that was also fiberglass to the outside bottom edge of the box.   This angle
surface was used to bolt the battery box to the cross supports that go
between the vehicle frame.

It is best not have any expose bolts heads inside the box as it could damage
the batteries and it may provide a conduct path to the vehicle frame.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: Fiberglass box questions


> And don't forget, new wet wood will cause voltage leakage.
>
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> United States Air Force, Retired
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 2:32 AM
> Subject: Re: Fiberglass box questions
>
>
> >
> >            Hi Dave and All,
> >                  No reason to use glass as wood is quite
> > strong enough, heck I built my whole EV body/chassis from
> > it.
> >                  Just make sure it has very strong coner
> > joints as batts are very heavy.
> >                  Then coat it with a boat or aircraft clear
> > epoxy made for wood or just paint it with enamel. If your
> > joinier isn't good, you could tape the seems with
> > fiberglass, not cloth but something heavier and epoxy.
> >
> >                                 Jerry Dycus
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message Follows -----
> > From: Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: Fiberglass box questions
> > Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 17:22:59 -0700
> >
> >>Dave, i've done a fair bit of fiberglass working making
> >>body parts, but  not structural stuff.  I'd assume that the
> >>glass is basically sealing  off the wood, and given you
> >>know wood, make the wood strong, and use a  thin layer
> >>should be sufficient. The resin holds it together, so it
> >>should be as thick as the glass  itself.  For resin, epoxy
> >>is more expensive but doesn't create bad  fumes, your wife
> >>and neighbors will appreciate using the epoxy, and it
> >>doesn't shrink like the other stuff, so I'd use it. Hope
> >>that helps, Jack
> >>
> >>Dave Cover wrote:
> >>> I'm considering building some battery boxes out of
> >>> fiberglass and wood. I have no experience working with
> >>fiberglass, but lot's with wood. The box will be about 14
> >>> inches wide and about 33 inches long. The box will be
> >>> supported primarily from the top edge, with one cross
> >>brace underneath about 2/3 down it's lenght. I'll run some
> >>> wooden slats the long way down the box floor for support.
> >>It will need to hold around 225 lbs of cells. Building a
> >>> box out of plywood is easy, but it will suffer from road
> >>salt and electrolyte. Paint will help, but that's a short
> >>> term solution. If I use fiberglass, it will not be
> >>> affected by the environment, but I don't know how to make
> >>it strong enough by itself. So I'm looking to make a wooden
> >>> box and fiberglass it. Not an original idea.
> >>>
> >>> Here are my questions, all from a fiberglass newbie;
> >>> 1. How many layers should I put down to to protect the
> >>> wood? 2. Am i better off using 3/4" plywood and a thin
> >>> glass skin or thinner plywood and more glass? 2. How
> >>thick are the layers of applied fiberglass, (for planning
> >>> dimensions?) Is one layer 1/8th of an inch, 2 layers
> >>> 3/16ths? 3. How structural can the fiberglass be? If I
> >>> build up a 1/4 inch layer, is that stronger than the
> >>> wooden box? 4. What type of fiberglass should I use? I've
> >>> seen Knytex, Volan treated, etc.  5. What weight cloth?
> >>> 8oz, double layer 4.4 oz? 6. What type of resin should I
> >>> use to resist the NiCd electrolyte?
> >>> Sorry about the tenderfoot questions, any help is
> >>> appreciated.
> >>> Thanks
> >>>
> >>> Dave Cover
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
>
>

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Martin Klingensmith wrote:
> 
> Several hundred for the IGBT and diode modules.
> Each time you blow them up ;-)

Yeah, I figured. ;) I got on IRF's website and checked out some of their higher
continuous current stuff. Dang, they have come a long way since 1997... :)

--
joe

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Hi Folks,

Been away awhile.  Got a new job, also had to push hard to get LeSled
on the road for real, and was faced with the cruel irony that I needed
to stop spending so much time reading and writing about EVs so I could
actually build mine.  I'm sure many of you can relate.

Here's the deal.  My Lectric Leopard still has its original 48V
Prestolite even though I'm running 120V and the car will weigh around
3000 lbs.  It's a tough motor, but that's asking a lot.  I had a 96V
Prestolite thoroughly freshened up to drop in until I realized my
belief that the two motors were interchangeable was false.  I also
noticed that even if I decide to use the 96V, it doesn't have any
machined surfaces that will properly center the motor on the plate
except around the OD of the drive end casting.  This is looking like
some serious machining will be necessary.

Taking a closer look at the 48V in the car, it looks like there is
nothing precisely aligning it to its plate and/or trans either.  (As
hopelessly crude as that sounds, no one with a Leopard would be
surprised if that is in fact true.)  Does anyone know for sure?

Whichever motor I choose, I want to have it ready for a long life in
the car before I put LeSled on the road.  That means removing and
installing the 48V or installing the 96V.  A motor installation is
unavoidable.  If the original 48V was aligned with the old "tap, spin
and listen" method, I could just as easily do that with the 96V too.
That would make "machining" the plate nothing more than hand-drilling
some clearance holes for the new bolt circle.  How easy is this method
*really* for a first-timer who needs to move quickly?

TIA,

Chris

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Lithium batteries may not be safe, based on the number of problems that have
come up over the last several years. One of the first reports I saw was back
in 2002... where a pallet of batteries, waiting to be loaded on a passenger
plane, caught fire on the tarmac. (Apparently a sharp minded cargo master
noticed they were getting warm so didn't load them on the plane. It's scary
to think these could have been loaded on a passenger airplane.)

The FAA has noted them as hazardous material.
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0UBT/is_29_18/ai_n6280925

Disney issued a recall of over 100,000 DVD players because the McNair
batteries were unsafe. (McNair, a Chinese company, denies the cause is their
batteries.) In a few cases, they got so hot that they melted the player
and/or damaged property. There have also been several cases on aircraft,
where personal devices heated up to a dangerous level... several laptops and
a flashlight... the latter having to be handled with oven mitts, it was so
hot.

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From: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> or tow a little trailer of smaller capacity batteries or larger batteries
> (depending on your responses) and keeping my voltage at 72 volts nom. This
> way i don't need to buy another controller DC DC or any other
> instrumentation. prob cost around 1000.

Robert: Before spending all the max-bucks, you might try installing a tow
hitch and borrow (or rent a small UHaul) and load it up with the weight
these batts will come in at. That'll give you an idea of what this extra
weight will do to your range... and whether your vehicle is actually able to
tug it along on your intended route. (You may find your motor overheating,
carrying what may approach double its current weight, up hills and such.)

Based on your current range, I'd expect you'll need to triple the number of
batts you have in your rig... unless the existing batts are very tired. As a
thought, you might wish to run one 72V pack at a time, and switch over when
they get low. That would avoid the series/parallel probs.

You don't mention the weight of your existing pack, but I'd guess you'll
need a 1 ton trailer (or maybe heavier capacity) to carry the new pack... so
the really cheap (bolt together) trailers won't do the job. A new trailer of
that sort will cost around $1K, w/o the hitch, lights, battery trays,
switches, batteries, and cabling. Oh, and be sure to mount rear and side
lights fairly high on the trailer, or you may have an unpleasant surprise.
<g>

Battery trailers were tried on a number of vehicles. In smaller rigs (such
as the Freeway) they didn't find it extended range far enough to warrant all
the hassle. If you carry 3 battery packs, you may wish to install 3
chargers, so your rig can charge in the same amount of time.

It sounds like a batt trailer might be your only solution, even if you
increase your voltage... since you say you don't have more room for batts.
It might be cheaper to find a small used ICE. Another option might be to
look for a corridor where you can drive at a slower speed. At 30MPH, you
might find your current pack will do the job, as opposed to freeway speeds.

... just my thoughts ...

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--- Begin Message ---
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 23:14:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: bolt pattern info - Blazer
To: [email protected]
Message-id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT


Hi, I'm starting to think about my options again.
In case my post about the Saturn seemed odd, the
explanation is this, it has a nice Kostov motor in it,
but it's not likely ever to be legal for street use.

So, time to shop for a donor car.
I have been reading about the range from an S10,
and thinking about my needs, and I am leaning
toward an S-10 blazer.

Big question #1, does anyone know how to look up
to compare the bolt pattern of the Saturn tranny
against the S-10?    This is the kind of information
that would be nice to catalog for all to use on eforge.

I figure it's 50/50 being the same...Manufacturers
sometimes reuse parts designs...
but one is a 4C car, other is a 6C/8C truck - oh well.

Other question is, what to do about batteries?
the drawback with the Blazer is no tilt-bed!
but I could get maintenance-free batteries,
I could make battery boxes with a hatch.
(Like my friend who bales hay on the upper level
of his barn, and feeds the goats on the lower ;-)
Gee, my parents used to have a mid-engine car...
we tilted the middle seat to water the battery.

As I am typing, I read the Wikipedia on this car,
I see there are a variety of styles and models.
I'm not wedded to blazer in particular,

I liked this info
"All 4-door S10 Blazers and Jimmies came with anti-lock brakes as standard
equipment; unlike the 2-door model, only two 4.3 L engines were optioned - the
base TBI and the CPI (introduced in 1992 for the S-series and Chevrolet Astro
vans; these engines had the "Vortec" logo on the intake plenum). Some consider
the CPI as the ancestor of the Vortec engine later introduced in 1996."



So, for the questions for the list.....
Anyone know if any of these light truck SUV's would use
the same pattern as the Saturn?

Anyone have firsthand experience with some of these,
figuring out if one model is better than another
(ignoring the adaptor plate headache).


My thought is to shop around for one with a
bad motor.  Maybe Craigslist ?   I checked ebay,
nothing fits the bill locally.

Thanks all
Seth



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