EV Digest 6567
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: EZGO motor
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: shunt motor controller?
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) White at PIR on Sunday, not Saturday Night
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: EZGO motor
by "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Otmar Ebenhoech on Peak Momment TV
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: This would make a great movie.
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Motor Ident problem
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Principle of ***variable*** electric braking via the drive motor?
by Geopilot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: This would make a great movie.
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Otmar Ebenhoech on Peak Momment TV
by "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Otmar's Interview
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) PLEASE KILL THREAD Re: This would make a great movie.
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Otmar's Interview
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Otmar's Interview
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Sequential battery charging
by Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: EZGO motor
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) First interview
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) motor pics - re: adding end cap and bearing
by Carl Clifford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: First interview
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: AC Drives on Ebay
by "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Martin
First off I wasn't able to get to the pics, so maybe
you can take a look at that.
I do a lot of the EZ-GO cart motors so I believe I
know which one you've got, probably the 73124G01 or 2.
As a golfcart motor it never has an issue with wearing
that shaft spline out I've never had to replace them
and so admit that I've not looked into how they're
attached. You are right in that they are probably
just a pressed on end piece.
It's kind of funny a bunch of these cart motors shaft
threads have popped up being I did just got one motor
that had a bad spline last week, looked like someone
tried to weld something, to be honest I couldn't tell
what actually happened or what the guy was doing on
it, lmao. I just popped a shaft from a dead armature
and simply replaced the whole shaft.
Being there has been so much intrest in this I'll try
and find a minute to see how hard they are to remove
(being I have this mutilated shaft I can test on), and
what size and length of snub shaft remaines.
I've done a number of shaft extentions and I've seen a
lot of "attemted" extentions. The MBD motor I did for
my mini chopper is an extention (it came with a 1/4"
female slot) and it didn't come out to bad. It's one
thing to press on a small spline that is not much
longer than the parent shaft, it's much tougher to
extend a longer shaft and keep it true.
With your motor bought and with not a lot of options
and figuering you're hell bent on trying this 8^P
I'd like to offer a little advise to save you a James
Massey type beating from both the motor and me 8^P
Here are the cons of this armature and shaft. First
the shaft doesn't stick out past the armature windings
so you can't drill and pin it like you'd find in a
Prestolite. For the same reason you can't weld it
very easily either (watch burning the windings if you
try this). This leaves you with a press fit extention
as your only viable option, IMO.
Anyway what I'd suggest to you would be to press on an
unmachined shaft blank and then machine it true vs.
machining something out and expecting it to press on
true. Once I've pressed on my blank I'd use a
steadyrest and put in the center hole and machine the
shaft from there.
I'm seriously doubting that you can remove that spline
end with pullers and a torch (again watch burning the
windings if you don't believe me and must try).
Pressing it off shouldn't be to hard but it's the
grabbing it from inside the windings that's the issue.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- Martin Klingensmith
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I finally got my EZ-GO 6" Advanced DC series motor
> this week. It took a
> month for me to get it after ordering on eBay. Long
> sad story (from the
> seller)
>
> I knew what I was getting into when I bought this
> motor so I'm not going to
> say "oh I didn't know it would be hard to get it
> running", but what I'm
> looking for is a bit of advice from someone who
> knows a bit more about these
> motors. If you look at the pictures:
> <http://walfstream/~martin/motor3.JPG>
> <http://walfstream/~martin/motor2.JPG>
> <http://walfstream/~martin/motor1.JPG>
>
> You will notice that the piece with the inside
> spline looks like it's not
> part of the main shaft. In fact it really couldn't
> be based on the cold-saw
> cuts on the shaft (at the bottom of the spline)
> It also looks like it was heated up when pressed
> onto the shaft (see
> motor3.JPG)
> My question to the more mechanically inclined people
> is: How do you think
> this is attached to the shaft of the motor?
> Do you think I can pull it off or should I leave it
> on there?
>
> The way I see it, I have two options for
> mechanically connecting to the
> motor:
> Find something with a 19 tooth spline that measures
> about 0.834 diameter
> Turn a (round) stub shaft that fits into the spline
> hole and tig weld it
> (making it go out of round?)
>
> Here are a few measurements I made:
> Inside case diameter: 5.85"
> Hole-hole (center-center) distance: 4.375"
> Case thickness: 0.435"
> Depth from edge of case to field windings: 0.395"
> Outside diameter of shaft: 1.35"
> Length of shaft from end to rotor laminations:
> 1.785"
> Length of spline cut: 0.900"
> --
> Martin Klingensmith
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Jim,
Was busy for a few days. And I don't know Marko, Brian, or Fiamp. I'm sure
they're nice guys.
Been a long time, but this is how I recall those motors. Prestolite 7.2 inch
diameter MGP motor was a 36 volt compound lift pump motor using 5 inch 33 slot
wave armature. That same MGP armature was used in series motors, like MGT and
MJU. The MGS was same size motor for 24 volts and had a 5 inch 34 slot lap
armature, and a series field. So, the MGS field would fit with MGP armature,
but was probably a few turns light of optimum. Likely not to overheat. I
would have used the MJU fields. Sorry, just don't remember all the turns per
coil.
Now Prestolite made the MTA-4001 for the Lectric Leopard. I know it was the
same size as all the above motors and compound wound for 48 volt. I am pretty
sure it used the MGP armature (33 slot), with new field (MTA).
To my knowledge, Prestolite didn't make shunt motors back then (70's and
80's).
You can get shunt, separately excited and compound motors to work as well as
series motors if you properly control them. If fact there can be advantage
with this. However the series motor may be the best approach for a lot of EV
applications, especially guys looking for a 1/4 mile range.
Hope that helps.
Jeff
Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey Mike, Jeff, all
I know Marko runs a 7" Prestilite shunted motor, I
believe the MGP in Fiamp. I've heard they don't work
as well as a series wound but I know of others using
them as well.
Brian Hall sent me down a Lectric Leopard motor which
is a modified Prestolite shunt motor. I happen to
have a compatable 7" series coil set so I offered to
throw them in rather than reinstall the set it came in
with. Anyway it appears to be an MGP (it's been
modded) and I believe the series coils are from an MGS
as memory serves.
First I'm wondering what Jeff thinks about this, and
second that Brian might be able to shed light on how
this motor was being run and how it preformed, he did
tell me to swap the coils out so sounds like it wasn't
optimal with the shunt coils.
I don't know if they used standard motors for the
Lectric Leopard or if this is even an OEM one, but
that might be a lead to look into for what they did
being it seemed to have at least worked. The motor
doesn't show any signs of heat for what it's worth.
Anyway just came across this bridge here myself.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- Jeff Major wrote:
> Mike,
>
> About the controller. I have used a Curtis
> 48V,275A series controller on a compound motor
> leaving original motor field connections intact.
> Been working fine for over 10 yrs on a old Sears
> lawn tractor. But I've never tried that controller
> on a shunt motor. At least a compound motor has
> some field in series with the armature. Guess I'd
> worry about the shunt motor without any series field
> having such a low inductance that the current will
> rise so fast that the controller won't handle it.
> Also, if you leave the shunt field across the
> armature connections, on start up, high current and
> low voltage from controller, the field will also be
> low, meaning low torque and low back emf, meaning
> higher currents for longer time.
>
> Well, if you can follow that, it might work, then
> again?????
>
> I don't think they actually make a shunt motor
> controller, but do make a separately excited motor
> controller (SepEx). These are made to controller
> armatures with the low inducatnce and would work on
> a shunt motor. The SepEx controller has separate
> terminals to connect the field. Usually, the SepEx
> motor has a much lower resistance field than a shunt
> motor, so the SepEx controller can over excite the
> field at high armature currents. I suspect you
> could program (or tune) a SepEx controller to run
> the shunt motor. Possibly reconnect the fields
> (like from series to parallel) to lower field
> resistance. Sevcon, as well as Curtis, makes SepEx
> controllers. Sevcon is less $. I've used both on
> SepEx motors.
>
> Another way, if you connect the shunt field
> separately to the battery, then the motor (which
> would be just the armature) should resemble a PM
> motor. They do make PM motor controllers. But I am
> not sure they would be powerful enough for you.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Jeff
>
> mike golub wrote:
> Hello
>
> I'm working on my metro conversion project.
> I got this g29 aircraft generator which is a shunt
> motor.
>
> I am in the process of building my own adapter plate
> and shaft coupler.
>
> I was thinking about direct drive, and shifting
> without the clutch.
>
> One big question is can I use one of those curtis
> series controllers with this shunt motor? If not are
> there any shunt motor controllers out there?
>
> Another question. I took the nut of the rear of the
> G29, and this long metal shaft came out, and now I
> have a small 16 teeth spline sticking out. Is that
> what people have been mounting the flywheel on?
> It seems I could make a new shaft that would have a
> better connecting piece?
>
> Again thanks in advance!
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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>
>
>
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
I had written:
>We'll have about 4-6 more real time slips that we'll share with
everyone after this coming Saturday when we take White Zombie to the
>track for the first time with its new more powerful battery pack.....
Just a note for anyone who was planning on attending the races tonight.
PIR is closed for drag racing tonight. Their web page was pretty vague,
and though tonight wasn't listed as being 'on', it was also not included
in the list of four dates that were the exceptions for all the Saturday
night drag races that are 'on' this year. I finally got in touch with
PIR personnel moments ago, and they confirmed the track is closed to
drag racing tonight...oh well, it's supposed to rain tonight anyway.
The good news, is that tomorrow, Sunday, it's supposed to dry out and
get warm again....and, the track is having their Winter season opener
for points drag racing...during the day! PIR says for us to bring White
Zombie and they'll make sure we can run! So the plan is now tomorrow
from noon on for drag racing at PIR.
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I appreciate the replies both Jim and Roderick,
I sent the wrong URLs (they were local URLs to me):
<http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor1.JPG>
<http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor2.JPG>
<http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor3.JPG>
Yes, it's basically all or nothing on this motor. I paid for it and waited a
month, I have to get this "car" done in a month on way or another!
The pressed-on spline adapter is almost certainly hardened to some extent?
Thanks,
Martin Klingensmith
On 3/17/07, Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey Martin
First off I wasn't able to get to the pics, so maybe
you can take a look at that.
I do a lot of the EZ-GO cart motors so I believe I
know which one you've got, probably the 73124G01 or 2.
As a golfcart motor it never has an issue with wearing
that shaft spline out I've never had to replace them
and so admit that I've not looked into how they're
attached. You are right in that they are probably
just a pressed on end piece.
It's kind of funny a bunch of these cart motors shaft
threads have popped up being I did just got one motor
that had a bad spline last week, looked like someone
tried to weld something, to be honest I couldn't tell
what actually happened or what the guy was doing on
it, lmao. I just popped a shaft from a dead armature
and simply replaced the whole shaft.
Being there has been so much intrest in this I'll try
and find a minute to see how hard they are to remove
(being I have this mutilated shaft I can test on), and
what size and length of snub shaft remaines.
I've done a number of shaft extentions and I've seen a
lot of "attemted" extentions. The MBD motor I did for
my mini chopper is an extention (it came with a 1/4"
female slot) and it didn't come out to bad. It's one
thing to press on a small spline that is not much
longer than the parent shaft, it's much tougher to
extend a longer shaft and keep it true.
With your motor bought and with not a lot of options
and figuering you're hell bent on trying this 8^P
I'd like to offer a little advise to save you a James
Massey type beating from both the motor and me 8^P
Here are the cons of this armature and shaft. First
the shaft doesn't stick out past the armature windings
so you can't drill and pin it like you'd find in a
Prestolite. For the same reason you can't weld it
very easily either (watch burning the windings if you
try this). This leaves you with a press fit extention
as your only viable option, IMO.
Anyway what I'd suggest to you would be to press on an
unmachined shaft blank and then machine it true vs.
machining something out and expecting it to press on
true. Once I've pressed on my blank I'd use a
steadyrest and put in the center hole and machine the
shaft from there.
I'm seriously doubting that you can remove that spline
end with pullers and a torch (again watch burning the
windings if you don't believe me and must try).
Pressing it off shouldn't be to hard but it's the
grabbing it from inside the windings that's the issue.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- Martin Klingensmith
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I finally got my EZ-GO 6" Advanced DC series motor
> this week. It took a
> month for me to get it after ordering on eBay. Long
> sad story (from the
> seller)
>
> I knew what I was getting into when I bought this
> motor so I'm not going to
> say "oh I didn't know it would be hard to get it
> running", but what I'm
> looking for is a bit of advice from someone who
> knows a bit more about these
> motors. If you look at the pictures:
> <http://walfstream/~martin/motor3.JPG>
> <http://walfstream/~martin/motor2.JPG>
> <http://walfstream/~martin/motor1.JPG>
>
> You will notice that the piece with the inside
> spline looks like it's not
> part of the main shaft. In fact it really couldn't
> be based on the cold-saw
> cuts on the shaft (at the bottom of the spline)
> It also looks like it was heated up when pressed
> onto the shaft (see
> motor3.JPG)
> My question to the more mechanically inclined people
> is: How do you think
> this is attached to the shaft of the motor?
> Do you think I can pull it off or should I leave it
> on there?
>
> The way I see it, I have two options for
> mechanically connecting to the
> motor:
> Find something with a 19 tooth spline that measures
> about 0.834 diameter
> Turn a (round) stub shaft that fits into the spline
> hole and tig weld it
> (making it go out of round?)
>
> Here are a few measurements I made:
> Inside case diameter: 5.85"
> Hole-hole (center-center) distance: 4.375"
> Case thickness: 0.435"
> Depth from edge of case to field windings: 0.395"
> Outside diameter of shaft: 1.35"
> Length of shaft from end to rotor laminations:
> 1.785"
> Length of spline cut: 0.900"
> --
> Martin Klingensmith
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and
hotel bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
--
Martin Klingensmith
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mar 16, 2007, at 11:13 PM, Roderick Wilde wrote:
Here is a great new video featuring Otmar:
http://www.peakmoment.tv/conversations/52.html
Thanx for sharing Rod.
Otmar, that was SWEET! A very positive interview. Solid EV information
without the all to common hype.
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 17 Mar 2007 at 9:27, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> I was entertained.
This is pure rant, not even worth the reading time. Please, let's not waste
bandwidth discussing it here.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am trying to establish the specs of a motor which I bought.
It's a 6.7" unit, about 10 inches long, has a keyed taper shaft and the
following number stamped on the case
S5!649JB447A
I have added the exclamation mark in the third position because the
character is indeterminable, but has a looped base so maybe a 6,8 or zero, or
even a
character O or C maybe ?
I bought it rated as a 36V, 2000rpm, 96Amps, 4HP device, but how many times
do things not turn out to be what they're supposed to be ?
It has a helical gear on the output shaft about 40mm dia and about 25mm
long, at a guess
Hoping someone might be able to shed some light on it for me.
Thanks in advance
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was wondering the general principles of ****variable***( the key here
is variability) braking incorporating running a an electric motor as a
braking generator.
Sure I understand you run the motor with no power applied but how do you
make it VARY its braking ability from min to maximum when your vary the
brake pedal pressure? Also how do you stop it from braking if you want
to coast?
Is it a variable resistor in the motor circuit and if so where?
I am sure it differs for DC permanent magnet motors and ac motors as well.
What are the basic differences in a braking circuit for a Dc vs AC motor
and a magnet versus non magnet moto?.
I am trying to under what goes on in the control box to vary the braking
so I can replicate a simplified hacked versions without a controller box
for a simple table top circuit using a toy car motor (a permanent magnet
dc motor).
Then i want to be able to explain how it works (to kids) in an AC car
motor with and without magnets.
Really simplified if possible.
Thanks
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I can't believe .. but then again, I noticed that it was NOT you, Larence,
who wrote that, well, thing.
Whenever I read (or hear) about 'angels', 'satan' or other imaginary
figures, I am realizing, that mankind still has a long, long way to go.
It is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in
delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
-- Carl Sagan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hey Otmar great job . I got my wife to watch the video , she was impressed and
you compacted the whole commutated experience much better than I could . thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: Roderick Wilde<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 2:13 AM
Subject: Otmar Ebenhoech on Peak Momment TV
Here is a great new video featuring Otmar:
http://www.peakmoment.tv/conversations/52.html<http://www.peakmoment.tv/conversations/52.html>
Roderick Wilde
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Great Interview. I think the point about the electric car polluting less
as it ages is my favorite part.
PS did anyone else catch themselfs yelling at the screen for him to
unplug the car?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 17 Mar 2007 at 16:11, someone wrote:
> Whenever I read (or hear) about ... imaginary figures ...
Sorry, but this is >exactly< the kind of response what I want to avoid, one
which can easily cause further controversy and discussion of a topic that
has nothing to do with EVs.
Please, folks, DO NOT respond to this post or the one which prompted it.
When choosing to respond or not to posts, use judgement as good as you use
in choosing the subjects for you own. Good judgement should suggest that we
LET THIS THREAD DIE.
Let's stick to discussing useful information - like how to make our EVs work
better.
Thanks.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>unplug the car?
I caught that also.
Perhaps the little green leprecons that helped him
build the green zillas unplugged it?
--- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Great Interview. I think the point about the
> electric car polluting less
> as it ages is my favorite part.
>
>
> PS did anyone else catch themselfs yelling at the
> screen for him to
> unplug the car?
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I yelled too.
It was trick photography, they do it all the time in hollywierd :-)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Rod Hower
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 1:43 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Otmar's Interview
>
>
> >unplug the car?
> I caught that also.
> Perhaps the little green leprecons that helped him
> build the green zillas unplugged it?
>
>
> --- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Great Interview. I think the point about the
> > electric car polluting less
> > as it ages is my favorite part.
> >
> >
> > PS did anyone else catch themselfs yelling at the
> > screen for him to
> > unplug the car?
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You are right, imbalance in an EV's battery pack is bad news. Something we all
struggle with. So, what I did is bought isolation transformers and put a
charger on each and every 12 V module (12 V battery or pair of 6 V batteries).
That means I have a total of 8 chargers on my main battery pack, and one
smaller one on the Aux battery. If I keep expanding the NiMH pack, I'll end up
with yet another charger for all those modules sequentially charging them as
necessary. I can also charge off my reserve fuel tank spare 120 AH battery
(good for an extra 2 miles) through the built in inverter and all these
chargers. If I wanted, I could monitor the voltages and selectively charge
only the weak ones, but why not just charge them all while I am at it.
I also load tested each battery - 40, 60, or 100 Watt light bulb running off
an inverter test. And, I am adding small strings of 13 AH NIMH (21 cells per
pair of 12 V batteries) to help balance them out. If I have two batteries
that have only 70 AH capacity, and the rest have 80 AH, just add on my NIMH
battery extender and they now all have 80 AH. In my case, I am shooting for 60
AH minumum across the board.
Just keep in mind, you can't get any more out of your pack than the weakest
battery, so why not add some strength to those weak ones. Or, just
occasionally individually charge all the batteries in the pack, a good 6 AH
6/12 V Walmart charger workes well for this. It's what I use. And, I
rebalance my pack all the time. Now, with every charge.
It cost me $160 for the group of isolation transformers and $17/ea for the 6
A smart chargers. Not bad for a very nice battery charging system. It may
keep my old pack running another 6 months or so.
Hope that helps some,
Steve
---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 05:16 PM 17/03/07 -0400, Martin Klingensmith wrote:
I appreciate the replies both Jim and Roderick,
I sent the wrong URLs (they were local URLs to me):
<http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor1.JPG>
<http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor2.JPG>
<http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor3.JPG>
Yes, it's basically all or nothing on this motor. I paid for it and waited a
month, I have to get this "car" done in a month on way or another!
The pressed-on spline adapter is almost certainly hardened to some extent?
G'day Martin, All
From the photos it looks as though the following can be said:
1) The spline stops at the end of the inner shaft, the inner shaft not
having the spline on it.
2) There is heat discolouration on the outside of the spline part - that
implies that it has been welded on.
3) The inner shaft has saw marks and a hole center drilled.
As a result of that it would be safe to say that:
4) the spline is almost certainly very different to the main shaft,
probably very hard.
5) you will not be able to pull the spline coupler off
6) you will be able to drill and thread the inner part of the shaft to hold
a coupler on.
So what can you do about it?
First up, what resources do you have available?, I assume machine-shop (at
least a lathe), as you will need to make an end plate for the motor and
would have bought it knowing that. If you can fully identify the spline you
may be able to buy a male spline piece (I have seen them on-line but don't
have any links).
I am looking at a similar shaft adaption (hydraulic pump motor from a reach
truck) for a boat project (not mine). I took the splined part off the pump
when I got the motor, so I already have the spline and need to make a coned
shaft end to take the splined part. What I'm planning is to tap the motor
shaft (mine already has a hole drilled into the inside of the shaft) to put
a bolt into, and make an adaptor that gets pulled up against the flat end
to ensure it is true to the shaft.
If you are unable to get a male spline part to use, you may need to have
one machined and use a collar to cover the gap between the end of the
spline cutting and the shoulder that should come up against the shaft end.
Last resort would be to turn a shaft to go into the spline that has a
diameter that sits 50% into the spline 'teeth' depth and risk splitting the
splined part when pressing it in (but it isn't able to be able got back out
easily, so has to be a plain shaft end, but that may be what you are
planning on anyway.
========================
IMHO ideal shaft adaptor if a spline adaptor is available (fixed-width
font) cross-sectional sketch:
# = Motor shaft with fem spline
* = spline adaptor
H = new shaft
###################HHHHHHH
###################HHHHHHH
#### nut***********HHHHHHH
#### nut***********HHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Retaining bolt thru middle
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
#### nut***********HHHHHHH
#### nut***********HHHHHHH
###################HHHHHHH
###################HHHHHHH
The spline adaptor would be held in place with a nut. In my case I have a
taper with a key that it needs to fit on, the taper and woodrof key hole
will be a straight-forward machining job, I need to check the diameter of
the inside small end of the taper and make sure I can get a thread on there
and leave space for the 5/16" bolt to go through that holds the adaptor on.
In my case the adaptor will probably be a flat plate for a drive shaft, but
that is YTBD. This method could be used to hold a single-part flywheel
adaptor in place, rather than taperlocking a piece onto a shaft to take the
flywheel mount, etc..
This may not be rigid enough to take a side-load, so may need to be
assembled with loctite (etc) and consideration given to jacking screws or
similar to be able to get it off.
=======================
IMHO ideal shaft adaptor if a spline has to be machined (fixed-width font)
cross-sectional sketch:
# = Motor shaft with fem spline
H = new shaft
* = spacer to allow the spline to end on the new shaft
###################***HHHH
###################***HHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Retaining bolt thru middle
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
###################***HHHH
###################***HHHH
The above two sketches allow for a part that can be removed again if
needed, therefore the stub can be greater in diameter than the bearing
mounting position.
===========================
And finally the risky last-resort running-out-of options method:
# = Motor shaft with fem spline
H = new shaft extension with plain shaft and interference fit
###################HHHHHHH
###################HHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHH==HHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
I'd still use a retaining bolt
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
#### HHHHHHHHHHHH==HHHHHHH
###################HHHHHHH
###################HHHHHHH
Note the small gap where the = signs are, this is the clearance for the
burrs from pressing into the spline that allows the shoulder on the shaft
to go up against the shaft end.
I'd wet everything with Devcon or Loctite before assembly as this "aint
commin off".
The bolt up the middle can be reasonably big -1/2" or so and will
contribute to the final strength.
Make the stub over-sized and machine it down in diameter to be smaller than
the bearing mounting diameter.
It would be possible to TIG the stub to the spline coupler, but I'd
consider that to be one risk too many.
=======================
OK Jim, got a 4x2 to hit me with?
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well my first interview went well yesterday with one of our local newspapers
and the story was on the front page of today's paper. The reporter wrote a
very positive story on my 1991 Dodge Dakota pickup conversion. I spent over
an hour at their office and even gave the reporter a ride in the truck.
Which seem to impress him since I had to keep slowing down for the other ICE
cars on the road? I was not trying to go fast, just keeping the posted
speed limits. I took him for about a 10 minute drive that included city
driving as well as a short drive on a 55 mph country road. Billy, the
reporter's name, was impressed that I was able to achieve 55 mph easily even
though it was an EV. I took this all in stride since this is a major
misconception of the non-EV folks. As I said earlier the story made the
front page of one of our local newspapers today and I have already had
several telephone calls congratulating me on my truck and the interview. I
just got off of the phone with the mayor of one of the small neighboring
towns that wants me to participate in a Green Day celebration that they are
having next month. I told her that I would be very happy to include my
truck in their celebration. I have also entered the truck in a local car
show set for the end of March. I am very happy and my EV grin is getting
bigger. I keep trying to spruce up the truck so that everyone that sees it
likes it. I feel like this is only the beginning and I hope that I can
raise peoples awareness that EV's are not just golf carts or small slow
vehicles to be avoided.
Thanks to everyone on the list for everything that they have done to help me
with this project.
Freddie
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Jim,
Finally got around to posting these pics.
http://www.stack.com/motor1.jpg
http://www.stack.com/motor2.jpg
http://www.stack.com/motor3.jpg
http://www.stack.com/motor4.jpg
Thanks
Carl
>Hey Carl
Send me a pic or three, so I can put an eyeball on it
so I can see exactly what motor you have. I'll be
better able to make suggestions as to which you have
and what can be done to help you move forward. I know
everyone has a budget and also works with whats
available.
There are just to many motors out there to blanket
them with a one approach solve all or even
suggestions. Being you seem bent on tormenting me
(LMAO) lets have a good look at what you have so you
don't torment me more later, ROF!
Anyway ship me some pics so I can offer suggestions
for the motor you have on hand.
Cya
Jim Husted
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Whats towns paper? Will they have it up on a website where we can all see it?
Congratulations. It'll be kinda wierd now people will be coming up to you
saying "you'r the guy with the electric truck :-)" I
made up some business cards to hand out to send people to the EV Album page.
Congratulations!!
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 3:09 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: First interview
>
>
> Well my first interview went well yesterday with one of our local newspapers
> and the story was on the front page of today's paper. The reporter wrote a
> very positive story on my 1991 Dodge Dakota pickup conversion. I spent over
> an hour at their office and even gave the reporter a ride in the truck.
> Which seem to impress him since I had to keep slowing down for the other ICE
> cars on the road? I was not trying to go fast, just keeping the posted
> speed limits. I took him for about a 10 minute drive that included city
> driving as well as a short drive on a 55 mph country road. Billy, the
> reporter's name, was impressed that I was able to achieve 55 mph easily even
> though it was an EV. I took this all in stride since this is a major
> misconception of the non-EV folks. As I said earlier the story made the
> front page of one of our local newspapers today and I have already had
> several telephone calls congratulating me on my truck and the interview. I
> just got off of the phone with the mayor of one of the small neighboring
> towns that wants me to participate in a Green Day celebration that they are
> having next month. I told her that I would be very happy to include my
> truck in their celebration. I have also entered the truck in a local car
> show set for the end of March. I am very happy and my EV grin is getting
> bigger. I keep trying to spruce up the truck so that everyone that sees it
> likes it. I feel like this is only the beginning and I hope that I can
> raise peoples awareness that EV's are not just golf carts or small slow
> vehicles to be avoided.
>
>
>
> Thanks to everyone on the list for everything that they have done to help me
> with this project.
>
>
>
> Freddie
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't know about the 1333 drive on ebay, but newer AB drives (1335 and
PowerFlex) can run without AC input with no problem. There are some
parameters that have to be set properly and precharge has to be dealt with
externally, but I have done it on projects. The DC bus is high voltage
thought, 700 - 800 for 480 volt drives. 230 volt drives would be about half
that.
BTW, AB drives have a couple hundred parameters that can be changed. Several
of these have to do with customizing it to the particular motor, but the
defaults will generally work OK.
I am currently waiting on delivery of a 200hp drive to spin a grinder on a
project we are doing. Anyone need an adapter plate ground down?
David
EV wannabe
----- Original Message -----
From: "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
yes and the GE do have the electric brake terminal I do not get any
chances to open up the stuff I work with . we are very busy and a factory
does not have the time to fool with ( ? ) expendable ! parts . ? at least
thaat is what we are told .
----- Original Message -----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
Most of the drives I have worked on have the DC buss on the terminal
strip
between the Line in and the Motor out and labeled B+ and B-. Usually
listed
in the documentation as the terminals for the dynamic braking module.
respectfully,
John
John Neiswanger
"The Skunk"
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751>
----- Original Message -----
From: "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
> how about GE drives you can disable their alarms easily bur I don't
> remember about the alarm for v in I know you can disable the current
> alarm but you will have to hack the dc to the dc bus .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> To: Karl
Nichols<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> ;
>
ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>>
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 2:43 PM
> Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
>
>
> A lot of the newer generation drives up to 3-5 hp are able to work off
> single phase input. I have even seen a couple that claimed to work
off
> 120
> volt single phase input for under 1 hp. I have a couple on my lathe
and
> drill press running off of 230 volt 1 phase and I like them for that.
> typically they are de-rated with the single phase input since only a
> portion
> of the input rectifier is being used.
>
> The problem is still the size is not large enough and we don't have
any
> AC
> to show to the drive input. Actually it would be best if we could
remove
> the input bridge rectifier and filter since we are talking about just
> feeding the DC buss directly.
>
> respectfully,
> John
>
> John Neiswanger
> "The Skunk"
>
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751%3Chttp://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751>>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl Nichols"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>>
> To:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>>;
>
<ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>>>
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 6:49 AM
> Subject: RE: AC Drives on Ebay
>
>
> I have worked with these drives and some years back I had wired a next
> generation unit to a Bridgeport Mill and ran it off 240V single phase.
I
> simply added a second phase wire to the 3rd leg and this effectively
> worked
> to give a voltage input for all 3 phases. The motor was rated at 208V
3
> phase at 2hp it worked great and gave me a simple speed control.
>
> Karl Nichols
> Phoenix, AZ
>
> 05 Prius
> Looking for first full EV
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:14 PM
> To:
ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>>
> Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
>
> >From the nameplate of the drive shown and the size of the cabinet
those
> appear to be about 1 HP drives. The 1333 AB drive is about 5 or 6
series
> old and are probably early 1990s vintage.
>
> As James mentioned the AB drives have firmware that checks for
incoming
> phase loss and I haven't found a simple way to fool it into thinking
the
> incoming lines are there.
>
> I have been asking every industrial drives distributer I deal with
about
> using their drives with a DC input and have not had much positive
> feedback.
> I was able to talk to another one today at a seminar and he actually
was
> encouraging so I will see what he is able to come up with. He
actually
> admitted to doing a conversion in college back in the early 90s so he
may
> be
>
> more sympathetic to the problem.
>
> respectfully,
> John
>
> John Neiswanger
> "The Skunk"
>
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/preview.php?vid=751<http://www.austinevorg/evalbum/preview.php?vid=751<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/previewphp?vid=751<http://www.austinevorg/evalbum/preview.php?vid=751>>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John G. Lussmyer"
>
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>>
> To: "EV Discussion List"
>
<ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>>>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 5:06 PM
> Subject: AC Drives on Ebay
>
>
> >I was searching around on Ebay, and found these:
> >
> > ALLEN BRABLEY ADJUSTABLE FREQUENCY AC MOTOR DRIVES
> >
> > Item number: 260094665248
> >
> > I wonder how hard it would be to adapt these to an EV usage....
> >
> > --
> > John G. Lussmyer
>
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
>
http://www.CasaDelGato.com<http://www.casadelgato.com/<http://www.casadelgato.com%3chttp//www.casadelgato.com/>>
> >
> >
>
>
>
--
Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.8/716 - Release Date: 3/9/2007
6:53 PM
--- End Message ---
