EV Digest 6831
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Advanced DC motor
by Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) new EV for me (well, a Golf Cart really...)
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Advanced DC motor
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Zilla controller insides
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Zilla controller insides (now with pictures)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Weather proofness of electric car components
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
7) Re: Advanced DC motor
by "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Tesla motors 15,000 EV's by the end of 2010?
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: new EV for me (well, a Golf Cart really...)
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: EV digest 6830 recumbent electric motorcycle-The Sumo
by "Larry Hays" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Correction Re: LED lights energy savings?
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Weather proofness of electric car components
by Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: LED lights energy savings?
by Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) golf cart motor speed torque curves
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Zilla controller insides
by "John Bryan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: LED lights energy savings?
by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Weather proofness of electric car components
by Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Weather proofness of electric car components
by "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: LED lights energy savings?
by Andrew Letton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Weather proofness of electric car components
by "TrotFox Greyfoot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Ian Anderson on electric cars
by "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Zilla controller insides
by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Charging batteries in parallel (Rescue GEM)
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: electravan for sale... one more thing
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Zilla controller insides
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: Zilla controller insides
by Steve Condie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Thundersky
by "Sam Maynard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Zilla controller insides
by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I couldn't find any specs on this motor but I use an ADC 140-07-4001 motor on a
small m-cycle at 36 volts with a 275 amp Curtis controller. My bike is a
converted Aermacchi 350 but it's a bit underpowered at ~375# or so. Just right
for running around town. It'll run at 35 mph on the flat drawing ~25 or 30
amps but hills can slow it down a lot. The splined shaft on your motor may
cause a problem finding sprockets. The motor I use is smaller and probably a
bit lighter and is rated 60 amps for one hour.
If the insulation is class H you might be able to use higher voltage, just have
to watch for overrevving. I went through a quick-and-dirty optimization
analysis in my application and determined that 36 volts (i.e. three 12 volt
group 31 AGM's) would provide me the best compromise between power and range.
In the available space for batteries that's the layout that worked best for me.
I should mention that this motor was purchased for another project but a
rolling frame showed up and it ended up being used; I should probably have used
a bigger motor but am having fun with this bike.
I made my battery boxes from hardware-store slotted angle/bar and initially
bolted then MIG welded them together and it's working fine on the rough roads
around here (so far) (knock on wood). The box is bolted to the bike spanning
the two down tubes so most of the weight transfers directly to the stock
(rather robust) Aermacchi frame. It's ugly, but functional.
I geared so the motor would spin 5000 rpm at 50 mph and most of the time I
don't exceed 45 mph. The whole issue of range ties into speed and acceleration
(just like a car). At higher speeds you use your batteries up quicker. How
fast/far do you need/want to go? I never go much farther than 10-12 miles but
I estimate I could go 30 miles at 35 mph if I wanted to but parts of that would
be pretty slow on the hills around here (coastal Maine).
BTW, the batteries are rated 80A for one hour. My comment about being
underpowered is in relation to my other (ICE) bikes.
Frank
----- Original Message ----
From: Alan Brinkman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2007 3:46:31 AM
Subject: Advanced DC motor
Hello everyone,
I picked up an Advanced DC 24 volt motor model BQ5-4001B P/N 36443 on
E-bay. I do not know if you can still look at the item since it has
ended, but the item number is 260122226177
The description reads: "The motor is 6.75" diameter x 9.375" long
excluding shaft, flange is 7.25" square with 5.8175" mount hole spacing.
7/8" od spine."
I would like to use this with a motorcycle project and a 24 to 36 volt
controller of 275 amps. I think this motor will be better than the 24
volt permanent magnet motor that I have.
Any thoughts? Advanced DC has a lot of part numbers, ratings, and
sizes. Does anyone have an idea of the horsepower, rpm, amps, etc. that
this motor is good for?
Thanks in advance,
Alan
____________________________________________________________________________________
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news,
photos & more.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just picked up an old Electric Golf Cart for my mom to use around
the property.
Of course, I'm now thinking of doing some upgrades to it as well...
As far as I can tell, it's "controller" is a simple contactor
system. It looks like it only has 2 (or maybe 3) speeds.
36v w/resistor
(possibly another 36v with a different resistor)
36v.
This makes for rather jerky acceleration.
It looks like current limiting was accomplished the really cheap
way. Thin wires.
All the battery cables are no heavier than 6ga, possibly 8ga.
I'm tempted to put a "real" controller in it, or at least a better
multi-step contactor.
Any suggestions? (oh, and of course I'd like to keep this as cheap
as possible.)
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Alan
I'm not familure with that exact motor so I don't have
a lot of input. I can tell you that using 36 volt
won't get you to high a top speed as was also posted.
You'd be able to run it at a higher voltage if budget
or needs dictate. You would have to advance the brush
timing to prevent the brushes from arcing but it's a
fairly easy mod to do.
As far as the motor goes it in fact does look new and
should work very well for you, you'll just need to
feed it more voltage for anything beyond city driving.
One word of caution, make sure it has a DE bearing as
it appears this may be a type that doesn't have one as
some just slip into the drive unit.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- Alan Brinkman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I picked up an Advanced DC 24 volt motor model
> BQ5-4001B P/N 36443 on
> E-bay. I do not know if you can still look at the
> item since it has
> ended, but the item number is 260122226177
>
> The description reads: "The motor is 6.75" diameter
> x 9.375" long
> excluding shaft, flange is 7.25" square with 5.8175"
> mount hole spacing.
> 7/8" od spine."
>
> I would like to use this with a motorcycle project
> and a 24 to 36 volt
> controller of 275 amps. I think this motor will be
> better than the 24
> volt permanent magnet motor that I have.
>
> Any thoughts? Advanced DC has a lot of part
> numbers, ratings, and
> sizes. Does anyone have an idea of the horsepower,
> rpm, amps, etc. that
> this motor is good for?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Alan
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G wrote:
I was wondering if anyone had taken a curtis and upgraded the
transistors for 600V capability. I have two curtis controllers and if
one is dead I was thinking of doing that myself.
You can stretch it a little, but not to 600v. Even 200v would be
stretching it. The voltage rating is determined by the transistors,
diodes, capacitors, internal power supply, and the spacings on the
circuit board. You can replace the parts, but can't do anything about
the basic board spacings.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G wrote:
Im sorry - I stated that wrong. I should have said 600 AMPS. 600V is
pretty difficult.
To raise the current, you'll have to somehow crowd some bigger freewheel
diodes in. Even the stock ones are undersized, and fail easily.
Also, you'll need more capacitors. Again, the stock ones are barely
adequate. Raising the current rating raises the ripple current, too.
There's no room for more inside the case, so they would have to be external.
I think a more hopeful strategy would be to use *two* Curtis controllers
in parallel, with a common control board running them both in
synchronism so they share the load and switch at the same time.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Zeke,
Why would you want to powerwash your engine compartment of an electric
vehicle???? (after conversion)
It won't get nasty dirty, because there is no oil or fumes, or extreme hot
temperatures helping cake on layers of dust and dirt!
My car is over a year old and a good compressed air blow nozzle would get
my compartment nice and clean with a damp rag to finish.
The controller is out of splash range, and other contactors are in coverred
boxes.
I have gone through some puddles (nothing stupid) with my ADC motor mounted
fairly low in the Chevy S10, but simply made sure I keep the motor RPM's
high to get any water out that got in. Again, over 1 year and 9,500 miles
without an issue.
the car is more than 10 years old.
Freezing rain weather, you defitely want to make sure you're not driving
thru puddles, then parking the car immediately after soaking your motor.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm considering selling the motor I used for my go-kart. Pics here:
<https://nnytech.net/~martin/pics/gocart/>
It might be good for a motorcycle.
--
Martin K
On 6/1/07, Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey Alan
I'm not familure with that exact motor so I don't have
a lot of input. I can tell you that using 36 volt
won't get you to high a top speed as was also posted.
You'd be able to run it at a higher voltage if budget
or needs dictate. You would have to advance the brush
timing to prevent the brushes from arcing but it's a
fairly easy mod to do.
As far as the motor goes it in fact does look new and
should work very well for you, you'll just need to
feed it more voltage for anything beyond city driving.
One word of caution, make sure it has a DE bearing as
it appears this may be a type that doesn't have one as
some just slip into the drive unit.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- Alan Brinkman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Full article here,
http://www.teslamotors.com/blog2/index.php?p=51&;
"However, we are actually delighted by the way this
bias finds implementation in the ZEV mandate. For the
results of this mandate is that all of our potential
EV competitors all the big car companies remain
mired in non-productive, deeply-expensive fuel cell
programs, keeping them out of the EV marketplace, and
indeed out of the serious ZEV marketplace entirely.
Every year spent on fuel cell programs by GM, Ford,
Honda, and the rest is another year we at Tesla Motors
can build our technological and market lead in the
obvious winning technology: battery electric vehicles.
We therefore sarcastically and enthusiastically
encourage you to maintain the hydrogen bias and keep
our competitors in the quagmire.
Meanwhile, we are on schedule to place 15,000 battery
electric Tesla vehicles on the road by the end of
2010.
Sarcasm aside, wouldnt it be nice for our environment
if we had a few competitors?"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It depends what your goals are, but it primarily sounds like you are
interested in smoothing out the ride for your mother. In that case there is
no better option than a nice PWM controller, and if it were me I'd probably
go with an Alltrax. Of course adding a few more steps to your contact
controller, or changing the resistor values would be the cheapest route to
go and could smooth things out a bit.
damon
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: "EV Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: new EV for me (well, a Golf Cart really...)
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2007 07:48:51 -0700
I just picked up an old Electric Golf Cart for my mom to use around the
property.
Of course, I'm now thinking of doing some upgrades to it as well...
As far as I can tell, it's "controller" is a simple contactor system. It
looks like it only has 2 (or maybe 3) speeds.
36v w/resistor
(possibly another 36v with a different resistor)
36v.
This makes for rather jerky acceleration.
It looks like current limiting was accomplished the really cheap way. Thin
wires.
All the battery cables are no heavier than 6ga, possibly 8ga.
I'm tempted to put a "real" controller in it, or at least a better
multi-step contactor.
Any suggestions? (oh, and of course I'd like to keep this as cheap as
possible.)
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
_________________________________________________________________
Get a preview of Live Earth, the hottest event this summer - only on MSN
http://liveearth.msn.com?source=msntaglineliveearthhm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the pics of the electric moto, Peter. Here's a litle info on the
Sumo, a similar bike. You can also see it in action on Youtube...truly the
future of motorcycling
http://www.ozoux.com/eclectic/archive/2006/07/13/ev-x7-sumo-electric-motorcycle
_________________________________________________________________
Play games, earn tickets, get cool prizes. Play nowit's FREE!
http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_hotmailtextlink1
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I assume you're not talking about an automotive headlight here, which
are like 800-2100 lumens each.
Also comparing halogen to LED shows the most dramatic difference only on
small-scale bulbs, because halogen technology gets a lot less efficient
in the small scale. For large scale, well designed halogens like in a
car headlight the halogen efficiency perks up and LEDs have only
marginal gains even if well designed. Without knowledge of the best
devices and the best thermal design and light gathering/focusing
technology, it could easily be less efficient than halogen.
Danny
Mark Hastings wrote:
Dinotte lighting is upgrading my 5watt LED headlights
to a new 200 lumen LED which will also increase my
battery time by 30%.
With 4AA 2300 mah batteries it is now supposed to last
130 minutes on high. The old LEDs were 140 lumens and
lasted about 100 minutes on high. Not sure when they
will reach their limit but LEDs are still improving.
Probably will never be enough to matter in a typical
EV. A super ultralight ultra aerodynamic low power one
maybe.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't know if this has any relevance but about ten years ago me and
my brother were pretty into tinkering with little electric motors and
9 volt batteries making motor boats for the puddle behind the house.
We had some success with making outboards using rubber bands and
pulleys to transfer the power to a submerged prop, but then we
figured out (despite having been told that you NEVER get electrical
stuff wet) if we put the propeller directly onto the motor and
submerged it mounting it under the boat it it still worked!
So I guess low voltage DC doesn't short out with water???? What
voltage does water conduct? Water must have a pretty high resistance?
I have been curious about that since.
Tehben
On May 31, 2007, at 6:17 PM, Michaela Merz wrote:
Well, the other day I had to take my S-10 conversion through rain.
Well,
not rain, not even close to what one considers to be 'rain' - more
like
somebody opened Hoover dam and spilled it all over our county. It
was bad,
visibility a few feet, the wipers unable to get rid of the all the
water
pouring from above. And I thought about my ADC motor hovering a few
inches
above the lake that used to be a road. And I started to think about
the
conductivity of water, waited for the moment my little EV would
give up
leaving me stranded in some of the worst water nightmares I ever
encountered (.. and I went through quiet a few tropical storms and
hurricanes). But guess what - nothing happened. The EV pulled me
out of
the mess and everything turned out to be just fine.
I guess our EVs are not that fragile after all :)
Michaela
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I didn't really think it would be able to save that much energy but
it seems like a lot of people have changed the lighting on their Ev's
to LED so I wondered:P
thanks,
Tehben
On Jun 1, 2007, at 6:24 AM, Lee Hart wrote:
Tehben Dean wrote:
Do you actually save enough energy to noticeably increase your
range by switching the lighting on your vehicle to LED?
Are there LED's bright enough to use for headlights?
At present, LEDs are not an effective light source for headlights.
They do excel as indicators (dashboards) and tail lights.
The 12v electrical system in a car is dreadfully inefficient; all
parts of it. The lights are only a small part, so even if you cut
their power consumption 10:1, it would still only be a small
reduction due to the other high-current loads. And even if you
reduced *all* 12v loads by 10:1, it will still only reduce total
power used in an electric car by a few percent.
It still may be worth doing for other reasons; but not just to save
energy.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anybody have a link or file of the torque speed
curve for a stock EZ-Go or Club Car 36Vdc motor?
Even better yet is chart recorder data showing the
current/voltage on the motor as it's driving on a
industry standard test coarse.
I found this info at EVparts,
"3.5 hp at 36 volts (18-19 MPH)"
Is 3.5 Hp the one hour rating or something different.
What's the 30 second rating?
What is the typical RPM range for this motor?
Thanks,
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Dan Frederiksen"
I'm curious about what the zillas look like on the inside, does anyone
have photos they could share?
My friend Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins has a Zilla controller, so
when this subject came up, we decided to disassemble his and
have a good look at the insides. For Dan, and others who are
curious, we took a good, clear photo of the precision layout,
and also conducted a partial disassembly in order to fully expose the
controller's guts for all to see.
http://www.geocities.com/evguy_2000/zilla
For any that think I'm taking advantage of Otmar's talent and
dedication in an unfair fashion, I think once you see the photo that
you'll agree that he really doesn't have anything to worry about.
I doubt very few, or possibly any of those who view this would be
able to recreate the required precision engineering. Hey Dave,
I hope your controller still runs after we had it all apart.
John
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I agree, Lighting is such a small percentage. If you really want to, just
to say you did, you can move to all LED lighting except for the headlights.
Use HID. You can either buy the after-market kits or rip one out of a
newish higher end car. Even the Prius is using them. They put out a lot
more light and use just a little more than half the power. (35w vs 60w)
They also benefit from being an extreme point source light, so they can
support complex and very accurate optical packages. Many of the cars with
this system use a projector-style optical system with lenses.
I retrofitted my Kawasaki ICE motorcycle with a Matsushita (Panasonic)
designed system out of a Japanese car. It's amazing, so much brighter and
now I can idle indefinitely without my battery going into discharge, which
was what was happening with the stock system. I also constructed my own LED
taillight/brakelight system with a modulated brake flash to get fast
attention for other drivers who may not notice me stopping.
LED technology is available that could replace Automotive headlights, but it
is going to be expensive and require a lot of thermal and optical
engineering to get right. Stay away from it until you start seeing it on
BMW, Benz, Lexus, etc.
-Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: LED lights energy savings?
Search the archives. Lighting doesn't consume enough to matter one way or
another.
LEDs are not bright enough to replace headlights in general, there's
supposed to be one luxury car with some new emitters that can though. I
ran the equations and it would take a completely impractical number of
devices even with the newer high-power emitters I could find.
LEDs are not strong competitors with halogen headlights for efficiency.
This goes against common perception, but it's true. They can more or less
equal halogens, maybe beat them by a 10%-20% sort of margin under the best
(most expensive and large) conditions. They can't save much to speak of.
Danny
Tehben Dean wrote:
Do you actually save enough energy to noticeably increase your range by
switching the lighting on your vehicle to LED?
Are there LED's bright enough to use for headlights?
Tehben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Fri, 2007-06-01 at 08:58 -0800, Tehben Dean wrote:
> I don't know if this has any relevance but about ten years ago me and
> my brother were pretty into tinkering with little electric motors and
> 9 volt batteries making motor boats for the puddle behind the house.
> We had some success with making outboards using rubber bands and
> pulleys to transfer the power to a submerged prop, but then we
> figured out (despite having been told that you NEVER get electrical
> stuff wet) if we put the propeller directly onto the motor and
> submerged it mounting it under the boat it it still worked!
>
> So I guess low voltage DC doesn't short out with water???? What
> voltage does water conduct? Water must have a pretty high resistance?
The water (especially if it's dirty) is conductive, but copper has a
much lower resistance. The electricity will tend to flow where it's
supposed to (through the copper coils and comm bars) instead of where
it's not supposed to (through the water) because of this.
I think the biggest dangers of driving a DC EV motor through water is
the accumulation of dirt and sediment, and the danger of breaking
something if the fins of the cooling fan hit the water at high speed.
Of course, the water will introduce drag as well.
--
Christopher Robison
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://ohmbre.org <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre + Z2K + Warp13!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> then we figured out if we put the propeller
> directly onto the motor and submerged it
> mounting it under the boat it it still worked!
aren't most fuel pump motors always submerged?
m.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One real advantage that LED lighting can have for an EV is to reduce the
size of DC-DC converter needed. Changing running and brake lights to
LED can "free up" 6-10 amps for other peak loads like wipers and heater
blowers.
cheers,
Andrew
Tehben Dean wrote:
I didn't really think it would be able to save that much energy but it
seems like a lot of people have changed the lighting on their Ev's to
LED so I wondered:P
thanks,
Tehben
On Jun 1, 2007, at 6:24 AM, Lee Hart wrote:
Tehben Dean wrote:
Do you actually save enough energy to noticeably increase your range
by switching the lighting on your vehicle to LED?
Are there LED's bright enough to use for headlights?
At present, LEDs are not an effective light source for headlights.
They do excel as indicators (dashboards) and tail lights.
The 12v electrical system in a car is dreadfully inefficient; all
parts of it. The lights are only a small part, so even if you cut
their power consumption 10:1, it would still only be a small
reduction due to the other high-current loads. And even if you
reduced *all* 12v loads by 10:1, it will still only reduce total
power used in an electric car by a few percent.
It still may be worth doing for other reasons; but not just to save
energy.
--Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, in Gasoline/Diesel. In fact, they usually use the fuel for
cooling. Water is a different beast.
Of course, it's the impurities in water that make it conductive. Pure
water is a good insulator but very expensive to produce (deionized
water.) On the other hand, salt water is a rather good conductor.
The biggest issue on an EV would be water in the controls or debris
carried by the water into your motor. In the controls a little bit of
conduction in the wrong place makes for a world of hurt!
Trot, the EV-less, fox...
On 6/1/07, Michael Wendell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> then we figured out if we put the propeller
> directly onto the motor and submerged it
> mounting it under the boat it it still worked!
aren't most fuel pump motors always submerged?
m.
--
| /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember,
| ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a
| >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have no idea what got me wondering what Ian Anderson (of Jethro Tull fame)
is up to lately, but he's got some comments about electric cars and the
american auto industry:
http://www.j-tull.com/news/diaries/iaja2007.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just be sure you don't let the Blue smoke -or- the Hamster out.
FYI: Fleas void your warranty.
-Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bryan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: Zilla controller insides
From: "Dan Frederiksen"
I'm curious about what the zillas look like on the inside, does anyone
have photos they could share?
My friend Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins has a Zilla controller, so
when this subject came up, we decided to disassemble his and
have a good look at the insides. For Dan, and others who are
curious, we took a good, clear photo of the precision layout,
and also conducted a partial disassembly in order to fully expose the
controller's guts for all to see.
http://www.geocities.com/evguy_2000/zilla
For any that think I'm taking advantage of Otmar's talent and
dedication in an unfair fashion, I think once you see the photo that
you'll agree that he really doesn't have anything to worry about.
I doubt very few, or possibly any of those who view this would be
able to recreate the required precision engineering. Hey Dave,
I hope your controller still runs after we had it all apart.
John
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Ricky Suiter wrote:
> A trick used by EVers is to put a tail light bulb in
> series with a battery and let it sit. The bulb creates
> a parasitic load which helps power flow through the
> battery, as the battery starts taking power the bulb
> will light up some then you can charge it without the
> bulb.
This seems a bit mixed up. The light bulb is not connected to be a load
on the battery.
The 'trick' is to put a light bulb in series between the charger/power
supply and the battery to limit currrent. If the battery is really
dead/sulphated it may not draw any (or very little) current when
connected to the charger/power supply normally. So, one cranks up the
supply to a higher than normal level and places a light bulb between the
battery and charger to limit the current. Initially the battery will
draw little current and the bulb not be lit. Over hours (days) the
battery will start drawing more current, and the bulb will eventually
limit the current to some lowish level.
If you have a power supply with voltage and current adjustments, then
you don't need the light bulb; just set the current limit to some lowish
level (1-2A) and the voltage to a highish level (15V-20V). Initially
the power supply will be in voltage limit and as/if the battery starts
drawing current, it will become current limited and the voltage will
drop. Once the battery is drawing 1-2A, you could either leave it
trickle charge until the voltage comes up to a healthy level, or remove
it from the power supply and connect it to a charger.
Cheers,
Roger.
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I would be willing to go get it with my Soyburban. So if someone wants it.
I'll cart it(for a small fee) just about anywhere in Northern California.
However the fee gets bigger with distance. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 7:22 AM
Subject: electravan for sale... one more thing
>
> just wanted to add one more thing... the van is set up for towing. no, it
> doesn't have a hitch, it's set up to tow beind a car or truck. it has a
> removable a-frame hitch on the front.
>
> might make picking it up a little easier for someone?
>
> finally, remember, i am not the seller, nor do i have any association with
> the seller, other than a few phone calls getting information.
>
> later,
> m.
>
> ================================================
>
> Michael Wendell
> Web/Graphics Guy
> Speedgoat Bicycles
> www.speedgoat.com
>
> 724.238.7181
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> win an amazing bike, fight breast cancer:
> http://www.speedgoat.com/raffle1.asp
>
> ================================================
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 10:18 AM
> Subject: electravan for sale... urgent
>
>
> earlier this week i found a jet industries electravan on craigslist, for
> $2200, in southern california.
>
> i was going to buy it, but realized that i need to hold off a bit. i have
> too much going on right now (getting married, fixing my house, buying a
new
> house, moving, etc.) and really don't need to add another project to my
> life.
>
> anyway, i want to let the list know about this since it seems like a good
> deal and the seller is motivated. they're moving from socal to colorado
THIS
> WEEKEND and the van needs to go away. anyway, i spoke to him a few times,
> here's what i know about it...
>
> - it's an electravan 500, not 600. 1978.
> - might be the oldest operating electravan.
> - still a daily driver, range is 15 miles or so.
> - current battery set is 5 years old.
> - the van is not rust free.
>
> since he's moving this weekend, he may be able to have a neighbor hold the
> van for a few days while transport arrangements are made.
>
> here's the craigslist link:
> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/car/337263737.html
>
> here's photos:
> http://deepstructure.net/electric_van
>
> here's a phone number:
> 310.692.5791
>
> i would recommend calling instead of emailing since it seems pretty time
> sensitive. he does have a buddy who's willing to give him $2k i think, but
> he didn't seem that interested. he'd really rather find a good home for
it.
>
> m.
>
> ================================================
>
> Michael Wendell
> Web/Graphics Guy
> Speedgoat Bicycles
> www.speedgoat.com
>
> 724.238.7181
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> win an amazing bike, fight breast cancer:
> http://www.speedgoat.com/raffle1.asp
>
> ================================================
>
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thanks,
now i understand better power difference between Zilla and Curtis, same for
Curtis noise which is now obvious:
there is zillions of cicadas inside a squeeling Curtis compared to only one
testosteroned Hamster monster inside a Zilla
keep the good job Otmar
:^)
Cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait du volant, quel carburant choisiriez-vous
?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bryan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: Zilla controller insides
From: "Dan Frederiksen"
I'm curious about what the zillas look like on the inside, does anyone
have photos they could share?
My friend Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins has a Zilla controller, so
when this subject came up, we decided to disassemble his and have a good
look at the insides. For Dan, and others who are
curious, we took a good, clear photo of the precision layout, and also
conducted a partial disassembly in order to fully expose the controller's
guts for all to see.
http://www.geocities.com/evguy_2000/zilla
For any that think I'm taking advantage of Otmar's talent and
dedication in an unfair fashion, I think once you see the photo that
you'll agree that he really doesn't have anything to worry about. I doubt
very few, or possibly any of those who view this would be able to recreate
the required precision engineering. Hey Dave,
I hope your controller still runs after we had it all apart.
John
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Anyone have experience with these?:
http://www.everspring.net/product-battery-pricing.htm
I got a quote that is about $670/KWh for a quantity of sixty 40Ah 3.2V cells
delivered to nearest airport.
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I've done this with an old Curtis that was modified by "Golf Tech" with a
new driver board. After a catastrophic blue smoke event, I beefed up the
MOSFETs with new ones that had much lower on resistance and thus current
capacity. The gate drive waveforms didn't look that good, so I changed 2
transistors to new ones with superior specs and a few resistors until it
looked better on the scope.
The controller is still running great after a few years!
-Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Condie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 1:44 PM
Subject: RE: Zilla controller insides
Logisystems Controllers in Texas does this with Curtis 1221s and 1209s,
but my impression is that the road has not been smooth. Apparently it's
easy enough to put beefier components in the box (newer ones are more
efficient and thus create less waste heat, even) but it seems as though
there a nagging problem with occasional smoke escape issues. They've gone
as high as 800 - 1000 amps and 144-156 volts.
"Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I
was wondering if anyone had taken a curtis and upgraded the
transistors for 600V capability. I have two curtis controllers and if
one is dead I was thinking of doing that myself.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dan Frederiksen
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 20:04
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Zilla controller insides
Peter Gabrielsson was nice enough to send me this photo looking into a
curtis controller. I for one find it interesting and inspiring and would
love to see more.
Those of you who think it's a dastardly deed he has done should probably
avert your eyes
http://www.df-cad.dk/web/ev/Curtis.jpg
I am new to EVs and was hoping to be able to help promote the EV in
various ways and I'm quite frankly amazed that noone have looked inside
one of the key components and put it on a website. Well, other than
Otmar reverse engineering a curtis and posting articles on it of course
:) Isn't that how he started his controller building career... how's
that for background information Roger : )
There is nothing wrong with what I ask of course. We all get inspired
and learn from other products and we are the better for it.
Dan
---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car
Finder tool.
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