I tested this roll out the hill, and the results are the same.  I turn off the 
idle control when I do this test.  If the transmission is in neutral, the motor 
ampere on the standard amp meter, the Amp on Tach and battery ampere all read 0 
amperes. 

While I am coasting down the hill, and select a transmission gear, the motor 
rpm will increase which slows the EV a bit.  At this time the motor amp meter 
which is a separate one with a shunt on the positive wire that is between the 
motor controller and motor still reads 0 amps as well as the battery amp meter 
and the E-meter amp indication. 

BUT, the Tach On Amp ampere raises up to about 30 to 50 amps.  As the EV is 
picking up speed, this motor decreases and when there is a slight rise, the 
motor ampere decreases.

The Stewart Warner tachometer has a selector switch on the back for a 4, 6, and 
8 cylinder engines.  According to Otmar at Café Electric, a tachometer set for 
a 8 cylinder engine will not work.  I had to select the 6 cylinder setting.  
The Z1k requires a four pulse input for it to work.  

I am also using a WarP 11 four pulse pickup unit that is made by Net Gain that 
sends this four pulse signal to the motor controller.  The cable between the 
pick up and controller is double shield which each separate wire is shield and 
insulated with another shield over that.  I only ground the internal shield at 
the controller end and the external shield at the pick up sensor at the motor 
end. 

Also I use the double shield cable between the out put pin of the controller 
and the tachometer.  Internal wire grounded at the controller mounting base and 
the external grounding at the tachometer base.  

Do not relied on just grounding any wire to any sheet metal surface on the EV.  
The metal body does not make a good conductor which may have overlapping body 
panels that are painted.  I run a large ground wire that starts out from the 
negative (negative ground vehicle) which goes to the all the grounding points 
of a vehicle.  This is how some fiberglass or carbon fiber vehicles do it. 

Roland   
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Adrian DeLeon<mailto:[email protected]> 
  To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]> 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 10:15 PM
  Subject: Re: [EVDL] WarP-11 Motor Regen?


  On Tue, 15 Oct 2013 10:44:47 -0700, Roland Wiench 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

  > Have anyone tested out this AMP on TACH mode to see what happens?
  >
  > Roland
  >

  I have a TransWarp 9 motor (9" diameter, same length as 8" motor) with a  
  Z1K, using AMPS on TACH. I've never seen the tachometer read above 0  
  unless my foot was on the accelerator. Lots of hills here, so plenty of  
  coasting at high motor RPM.

  My truck has a Warp 11 with a Z1K also, but I never could get the tach to  
  work. Toyota pickup with electronic speedometer. It might have worked  
  briefly. I've even changed the cluster once or twice...

  Maybe your throttle is partially on - not enough to trigger the high pedal  
  warning (won't start the controller), but enough to cause the tach needle  
  to move.

  Could it be EMI? My tach wires were pretty sensitive to noise. I had to  
  move them around and add some capacitors to eliminate interference. Still  
  get interference on my amp-hour counter.

  Do you have any other stuff hooked to your motor that might be supplying  
  armature/field current? Didn't your EV have some type of "idle" circuit at  
  one point?

  -Adrian
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