Hi Tom and All,
Volt packs have good and bad points. Good
is they seem to have a long life and put out good power and cost less. They
are also available because of other things like bulky, hard to make packs from
as just 4-5-7 kwhr modules limited to multiples of 48vdc/2kwhr mostly.
One should not buy, charge loose modules that
don't have end plates. If you do I've found out the cells will be damaged as
they swell if not restricted. Fact is I'd never buy modules that wasn't
complete including BMS and never apart. Also it makes sure they are all from
the same car aged the same.
Not hard though as the cheapest way is
buying a sealed pack or crashed EV running $1500-$2k now. It comes with lots
of goodies too you'll need like wiring, connectors, BMS, etc..
And use cooling as the heat will build up as
the cells are buried in the plastic casing and coolant the only way to get heat
out effectively..,
They are bulky, hard to fit and 3 different
sizes so make sure they'll fit.
Wrecked Volts are getting common and other
than EV people, no one wants them.
Has anyone hacked the Volt 2012-13 BMS yet?
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
On Friday, December 23, 2016, tomw via EV
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
wrote:
> May I ask why
the two of you (John, Cor) decided to use Leaf packs
rather
> than Volt packs? The spinel
chemistry used in Leaf batteries is known to
> be
> inferior to the
NMC chemistry which I think is used in Volt packs, and
the
> Volt packs have liquid temperature
control to further improve longevity. On
> the other hand, the Leaf modules seem to
be much easier to work with if you
> want
to make a custom pack, say by combining the basic 2s2p
modules in
> parallel to make higher Ah
modules, or to fit an existing battery box in a
> conversion.
>
> Then there are also Tesla S modules
available which seem to be the best
>
chemistry for longevity and the highest energy density.
Some are concerned
> with the safety of
these higher energy density cells, but the Tesla packs
> seem very well designed for safety with
each cell fused on both anode and
>
cathode, and my understanding is you have access to the bms
wires from each
> module so can
straight-forwardly connect a bms to them.
>
> Just wondering what
drove your decision. I've toyed with the idea of
using
> one of the above in my conversion
for a couple years now, but my LiFePO4
>
pack, though 7 years old, is still doing fine so I'm
reticent to spend more
> money on
batteries, and I'd kind of like to see how long it lasts
before
> significant degradation. I
lean more toward Tesla modules since I could
> double my pack size and have a bit LESS
weight, and I think with proper
> care
> in the implementation, packaging, and
operation (bms) they would be safe.
>
> I also prefer liquid cooling since I think
the end of life of my cells will
> be
caused by creeping up internal resistance, not capacity
loss. We get
> fairly high temperatures
here in July and August (~100F, sometimes above)
> so
> the higher
internal resistance will result in more pack heating and
pack
> temperatures exceeding the ~40C
(104F) limit above which it seems that
>
greater deterioration occurs. I've exceeded that a few
times, and expect it
> will get more
frequent as ir creeps up.
>
> --
> View this message
in context: http://electric-vehicle-
>
discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Leaf-battery-pack-
> connector-tp4684927p4685015.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion
List mailing list archive at
>
Nabble.com.
>
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