[ref
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/K-W-BC20-96-volt-charger-replacement-tp4688063.html
]

Looking at your evalbum.com listing:
http://www.evalbum.com/200.html

And an old resume of yours:
http://www.armory.com/~me/

I can see she is likely not afraid of doing some EV work herself.

A very long time ago, Clare Bell ...
https://www.google.com/search?q=electric+car+clare+bell
 (scientist, engineer, EV repair and builder, turned author, +more)

 ... found that if the tops of a PbSO4 wet cell pack being charged by a
BC-20 got dirty, wet, or otherwise contaminated (as posted), that would
cause leakage a current to trip the BC-20's built in gfi.

So, I would plan to fully charge your pack (the best you can), unplug the
charger, pull the pack disconnect (for your safety), clean the tops of your
pack (the best you can using a windex-type/glass/mild alkaline cleaner),
then clean off with water wet wipes any left over cleaner, ensure the tops
are quite dry, take & write down/document surface voltage readings (SOC) of
each 12V battery, then try charging again.

I'll assume the K&W BC-20 has the correct resistor installed for charging a
96VDC PbSO4 wet-cell pack. Here is what the evdl has for the BC-20:
http://www.evdl.org/docs/bc-20.pdf
 Because your pack is 96VDC, you can ignore the references to the boost
transformer.

IMO, the BC-20 is a 1990's vintage cheap charger:
-not isolated from the AC line
-had horrible power factor correction (pfc), about 50%
-had a huge current spike that was very hard on plugs, outlets, cords,
wiring, and AC breakers.
-the built in current meter displayed an odd-ball TMS rather the more common
RMS. So, to get an average current of 10A from the AC outlet (so you did not
trip its breaker), the charger's TMS meter should display 7A, etc.

I know chargers, I had six of them built into my S-10 blazer:
http://brucedp.0catch.com/blazer/
and the Ford Escort sta. wgn (Clare tricked out for me):
http://brucedp.0catch.com/escort/
 I had for a short while, had a BC-20 in it. So, I have had experience with
BC-20, Zivan, mm pfc-xx, and pro-series boat chargers.

I would suggest that after you have cleaned the pack (state above), that you
unplug your EV, use a standard 12VDC starter battery charger to top off each
of your 12V batteries, let them rest for an hour, and then record their
surface voltages.

Lets assume Mary's eight 12VDC deep-cycle batteries are healthy enough, and
now fully charged (If not, perhaps you have a battery with weak cells, and
you are looking at a pack change). 12VDC deep-cycle batteries do not last as
long as 6V golf/traction batteries. The latter have thicker plates= more
lead. i.e. whereas you can have a pack of 6V last you 3 years, I have found
a pack of 12V batteries is lucky to last 1.5 years. You really have to keep
them charged properly and never-ever discharge them beyond 50%, the less the
better.

If you have to replace your pack, I suggest:
http://www.sears.com/automotive-batteries-marine-batteries/b-1100201
 select the appropriate size you currently have, either group 31, 27, or 24.
I have had good cycle life with these, but the hardship is ensuring your
Capitola Sears store has all eight of your fresh (same date) batteries in
stock, and you will have to remove the dead ones from your EV yourself ahead
of time, to take them in that same day for the dead core-credit$.

Mary asked about a replacement charger. 
With today's production EVs, much has changed with the term charger. A
simple search:
https://www.google.com/search?q=electric+car+charger

 gives L2 EVSE, not actual chargers (L2 EVSE only provide AC power to the
EV's on-board AC to DC charger). What Mary needs is an actual AC to DC PbSO4
battery charger.
I found another BC-20
http://www.evtradinpost.com/item/3004

 but really, that ancient charger should be pulled out and put in a museum,
and replaced with a charger from this time period. 

Your BC-20 is likely set to draw 12A AC off a 120VAC 15A outlet, which
likely only puts 6A into your 96VDC pack (the charger is only ~50%
efficient, a lot of power is wasted as heat). A 12A AC draw is 1440watts.

(Note: any links I provide from EV re-sellers does not mean I recommend or
prefer them over others, they are just an example. The buyer should do their
own research for the best deal that fits their EV needs)

Delta-Q is a fine dual input voltage charger. It seems to me, the Delta-Q is
solid, but more costly with less power out. 
https://cdn.hackaday.io/files/18376786198784/delta-q-battery-charger-manual.pdf

The Zivan k & ng series chargers evolved into the series Elcon sells. 
I would go with a ~$600 Elcon pfc-1500 if Mary wanted a drop in charger
(same power, etc.):
http://www.elconchargers.com/catalog/item/7344653/7638003.htm

http://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/assets/images/Lead_Acid_Ligoo-user-manual-15kw-1500w_Battery_Charger_EV_Battery%20Charger_TCCH_PFC-1500.pdf

http://www.evcomponents.com/waredetail/elcon%20tc%20charger/ElCon%20TC%201500W%20HFPFC%20Battery%20Charger.pdf


The advantage is both of these charger brands are dual input voltage (they
run off either 120 or 240VAC). Which means, Mary could continue to charge
off a 120VAC outlet as she had in the past, but at some point she could buy
an upgrade j1772 kit from an EV component re-seller (there are a few on the
evdl) that would allow Mary to charge her MG EV off the 240VAC a public EVSE
would provide. In less time than the time she spent shopping, her MG EV
would be tapering off its charge (she'd be almost full in a much shorter
period of time).

However, an Elcon pfc-1500 does not draw nor put out as much power as the
j1772 6kW public EVSE can provide. So, if she wanted to go whole-hog (spend
some $), she could have a dual set up. The pfc-1500 for charging off 120 or
240VAC (likely 90+% of the time overnight), and also have a second higher
powered Elcon charger just for sucking down hard on a public EVSE's 6kW,
like a pfc-5000
http://www.elconchargers.com/catalog/item/7344653/7638130.htm


An alternative to the alternative ...
Way in the past, an evdl member poo-poo's my use of several individual 12VDC
chargers to charge my pack. Stating that it increases the probability of a
charger failure. Later, other EVrs installed individual 12V chargers and had
good success (so poo-poo to the poo-poo'r).

12VDC chargers found on ebay are incredibility cheap (almost those away if
they fail, cheap).
Mary's 96VDC pack is made up of 8 12V deep-cycle PbSO4 wet-cell batteries.
Whatever charger she uses has to be able to charge that type of battery (and
not designed for today's li-ion, which have different voltages, and charging
curves).

First, so that this multiple 12V charger for each 12V battery setup works,
those chargers should operate off 120VAC (if they also can run off 240VAC
that is a plus). Also, look to install this chargers so that water, moisture
and other contaminates do not get inside the little chargers (some have
vents for a small fan, and some are sealed which I like better).

Since Mary's pack is likely split between the front under the hood, and in
the rear trunk, she could tie down these chargers under her seats (under
rear seat for protection from the elements.

Take  a look at these two links which are the same product sold by two
sellers:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Souer-Genuine-12V-6A-10A-Smart-Car-Motorcycle-Battery-Charger-LCD-Display-US-EU/192177384973

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V10A-6A-Smart-Car-Motorcycle-Lead-acid-Battery-Charger-LCD-Display-EU-US-Plug/232323000771

They each give the option of  12V 10A US plug  for ~$15, or  12V 6A US plug 
for ~$11. I would order 8 of the 10A US models. The outputs would go across
each battery (one 10 12V charger for battery), and all the AC plugs would be
wired into one line, so you only have to plug in one 102VAC cord (same as
before).

8*$15 (10A model)= $120 which is a whole lot cheaper than $600. So cheap one
could double up (put two in parallel, 16 cheap (10A model) chargers for
$240) and get 20A pumping into their pack!


I found some other links to look at, but, the above seems the better deal:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-6A-Car-Motorcycle-Battery-Charger-for-12-Volt-Sealed-Lead-Acid-VE/162523028235

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-6A-LCD-3-Mode-Smart-Lead-acid-PWM-Battery-Charger-for-Car-Motorcycle-Boat-/282642502731


*The following are NOT chargers, so they will not fully charge & balance
your 12V battery:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-to-DC-Converter-HOTOR-8A-96W-110-220V-to-12V-Car-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-/322489110345

http://www.ebay.com/itm/iSaddle-110V-AC-to-12V-10A-DC-Power-Converter-New-/381862636237

I ask others to comment and help Mary complete her task of being able to
charge her EV again.




For EVLN EV-newswire posts use: 
http://evdl.org/evln/


{brucedp.neocities.org}

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