I have a Gizmo EV which uses a 10" Sepex motor. Many moons ago, I discovered a burned brush and guessed that it was due to low rpm, high current use by the previous owner. The motor was replaced with a rebuild version shipped from NY state to FL state at not insignificant expense.
More recently, the Gizmo has been sitting idle. Perhaps someone can tell me why it feels as though it is cogging at low speed, even though it didn't use to do that. At higher speeds, the jitter and jumping goes away, but the low speed regime is from zero to about 20 mph and is painful to experience. I've been told from one of the Gizmo group denizens that when/if I fix the jitter, it would be wise to take a spin every two weeks or so to keep the jitters away. Would the commutator oxide over non-use and cause this problem? Because I retained the previous motor with the burned brush, I figured I'd get it checked out, repaired or rebuilt as required, but it's nigh impossible to find a motor repair facility in this area. One of the more recently recommended shops now has a sign that says something along the lines of "I'll be here if I feel like it. Call me to see if I'm here. If I'm not here and I feel like working, I'll call you back." He didn't call back. Through the shop window, I saw a sign that stated he does not work on electric vehicle motors, although I think I could have slipped the ES-10C by as something else. I have the address in NY from which I ordered the current motor, but the shipping would be brutal. I like to think I'm handy, although physically falling apart as of late. After all, I was able to pull one motor and put in the other, but that was in healthier days. I can enlist some stronger hands for the hard stuff, should I solve the smaller problems. Is it practical to expect to be able to dismantle the spare motor, replace the brushes and then what? Do I need to examine and/or replace the bearings on which the shaft operates? Is there a task within the grasp of a mere mortal that must be performed on the commutator and/or windings? Of course, if all of the above is possible to accomplish by a tinkerer, that leaves the jittery motor in question. Once it is out, I'd like to have it operational without the jitter. The motor is in a position impossible to observe the brushes for sparking, as it has a ducted shroud at the brush location with forced air cooling. That, along with a lower gear ratio, should be providing improved air flow. This particular vehicle has a reputation for insufficient airflow. I had installed temperature sensors at the exit vents and discovered that in the heat of the summer, it stayed under 150°F, which I expect is well within safe limits. In summary (whew!), is the spare motor fixable by a handy tinkerer? Is the in-place motor problem something that is easily identified and as easily resolved? fred -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20180427/a9486a24/attachment.html> _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
