Hi Fred and All, Tampa Armature Works I believe does
them. Look for local forklift shops as these are Forklift motors, asking
where they are . I own a new D+D15? 125 amp and it just
sitting in the humidity the brushes got stuck brand new. So I'd pop off the
air guard over the brushes and see if you can move them, lift them up. Use a
needle nose plier to lift the spring off and the brush should easily move.
You could take one out then with a finger feel the commutator as
you spin it , if it has a high bar. If the brushes don't you
might need to take it apart which isn't hard. Getting it back together is
harder but leave the brush springs off the side of the brushes and be gentle
should be OK. I'm just 12 miles SE of Tampa if you want to
bring it over we can take it apart so see what the problem is, maybe fix it.
Jerry
From: fred via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Cc: fred <fred_do...@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2018 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 66, Issue 31
Begin Original Message: 2
From: Lee Hart <leeah...@earthlink.net>fred via EV wrote:
> I have a Gizmo EV which uses a 10" Sepex motor.
That doesn't sound like the original motor. I worked on Gizmos many
moons ago, and as I recall they had D&D 6.7" series motors, and Alltrax
controllers.
That error is a serious brain glitch. Somewhere in my alleged mind, I exchanged
the part number with the diameter. This one is probably the D&D motor you know,
with a Sevcon controller.
> More recently, the Gizmo has been sitting idle. Perhaps someone can tell me
> why it feels as though it is cogging at low speed, even though it didn't use
> to do that. At higher speeds, the jitter and jumping goes away, but the low
> speed regime is from zero to about 20 mph and is painful to experience. I've
> been told from one of the Gizmo group denizens that when/if I fix the jitter,
> it would be wise to take a spin every two weeks or so to keep the jitters
> away. Would the commutator oxide over non-use and cause this problem?
>
> Because I retained the previous motor with the burned brush, I figured I'd
> get it checked out, repaired or rebuilt as required, but it's nigh impossible
> to find a motor repair facility in this area. One of the more recently
> recommended shops now has a sign that says something along the lines of "I'll
> be here if I feel like it. Call me to see if I'm here. If I'm not here and I
> feel like working, I'll call you back." He didn't call back. Through the shop
> window, I saw a sign that stated he does not work on electric vehicle motors,
> although I think I could have slipped the ES-10C by as something else.
If the brush is all that burned, the commutator can be resurfaced and
new brushes installed to resurrect the motor. This is not difficult work.
These are hopeful words. Even if all I accomplish is to disassemble the spare
motor, it may save me a buck or two when I find a repair shop.
> I have the address in NY from which I ordered the current motor, but the
> shipping would be brutal.
Where are you located? Are there any motor repair places listed in a
city near you? Any place that works on golf carts, fork lifts, and
industrial motors can rebuild your motor.
Being in Florida means there are plenty of golf cart places around here. I
should have thought of that, even though the Gizmo is a bit better performer.
It's effectively the same technology. If a golf cart shop doesn't fix the
stuff, they may know of someone who does.
> Is it practical to expect to be able to dismantle the spare motor, replace
> the brushes and then what?
If the commutator is straight and true (no bent or warped bars), you
basically put the armature in a lathe, and take off just enough copper
to clean up and smooth the surface again. Assemble the motor with new
brushes and brush springs. Run the motor on the bench for several hours
at low voltage to break it in.
I don't think my toy HF lathe has the capacity to spin the armature, so that
will have to be outsourced. At least I'll save some labor charges for
dismantling the motor maybe.
> Do I need to examine and/or replace the bearings on which the shaft operates?
Bearings generally last "forever". If they do need replacement, you need
a press or gear puller. Again, that's not difficult to find.
I suppose I can spin the motor and see if it feels smooth. It was running fine
prior to the brush burn up.
> In summary (whew!), is the spare motor fixable by a handy tinkerer?
I'd say it's worth a try. It's worthless if it's broken. How much worse
can it be? ;-)
I try to use that attitude on my experiments, but again forgot to apply it
here. It doesn't work now, if something goes wrong, it won't work less, will it?
> Is the in-place motor problem something that is easily identified and as
> easily resolved?
I can't tell. Maybe someone put the wrong motor and controller in it.
Luckily, I was the someone and it has the right controller. It's the part about
sitting idle that caused the latest trouble with the in-place motor. I see
another post in the list to address that.
Thanks for your suggestions and advice. I have more options now than I had
earlier.
Original Message: 5From: David Nelson <gizm...@gmail.com>
Fred's Gizmo was built nearly identical to the Gizmo I had. It has a
Sevcon SepEx PP745 controller and the ES10C is the D&D 6.7" SepEx
motor.
Thanks for clearing that up, David.
>> More recently, the Gizmo has been sitting idle. Perhaps someone can tell
>> me why it feels as though it is cogging at low speed, even though it didn't
>> use to do that. At higher speeds, the jitter and jumping goes away, but the
>> low speed regime is from zero to about 20 mph and is painful to experience.
>> I've been told from one of the Gizmo group denizens that when/if I fix the
>> jitter, it would be wise to take a spin every two weeks or so to keep the
>> jitters away. Would the commutator oxide over non-use and cause this
>> problem?
I experienced the same thing with mine. I found with driving it a
while it smoothed out. Of course my hill climbing and 50mph driving
worked the motor harder than what yours usually got on the flat FL
roads.
I'm probably going to jack up the back end, secure it with stands and block the
wheels, then run the motor at low speed for a while. I should be able to get an
air nozzle into the cracks and crevices to blow out any residue. If that solves
the jitter, I'll go back to driving it more frequently.
On one of the motors from one of the Gizmos I'm sure Lee Hart worked
on, after it sat a while, while I was working on restoring the Gizmo,
the brushes ended up seizing from lack of motion. Before I sold it I
had to free them up and clean out the brush guides. It worked just
fine after that and the new owner drove it quite a while before
selling it.
That's more encouraging words indeed.
thanks
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20180428/567657dc/attachment.html>
_______________________________________________
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20180428/0bc43ead/attachment.html>
_______________________________________________
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
